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#421
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Here are some quick pics of the kitchen and the room next to it. Its one big room really.
im standing in teh room next to the kitchen looking up at our bedroom door. ![]() Thats the ceiling. ![]() from our bedroom looking down at the kitchen. ![]() Looking down at the room next to the kitchen. ![]() And this is the kitchen. ![]() I really want to make it look like one large room. Kind of like a kitchen literally with an area to sit down and chill. everyone knows that when you throw a party that everyone ends up in the kitchen I wn to do hardwood floors through the whole level of the house. No threshold between the kitchen and the other room like there is now. On the other side of the wall behind the stove is a closet to hang coats when you come in and a closet for the washer and dryer. its a small hallway. I already have a place ready in the basement for the washer and dryer. I want to wall off those closets and give that space to the kithen. The bedroom on the other side of the hallway has a huge closet. I want to open up half of it to the halway as the coat closet.Theres also a door that leads out to the deck on fridge side of the kitchen(3rd pic down). Its a single door but appears to be a double. The other half is just glass. Want to replace that whole door with a single glass door. The saved space will be on the kitchen side. I wan the two rooms to blend toether. I dont want it where you can tell where one starts and the other ends. I would be honored to get a kitchen layout from you. If you can get my girlfriend to say yes,... I'll do it. Once I have my machine built, I'll cut it out and even do the pvc wrapping. Looking to build a vacuum forming too sometime after the MM. Some kind of 4'x4' machine that can be easily sized down to a 2'x2'. I will draw up the current floor plan sometime this week. |
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#422
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Charles those cuboards can have a nice limewashed look with the raised pannel doors.I like those beams above the kitchen it has a nice aged look to it.The way I see it is that you have enough space for a uge island with your oven/hob in the island or if you don`t want it on the island have your prep bowl/butler sink on the island.
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#423
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My next project will be a kitchen where we are taking old scaffold planks and using it for floating shelves and an island.Cement floors and ceasar stone counter tops.I went and bought out all the scaffold planks from the builders that I know.Since the economy is so bad in the building industry that it didn`t take a lot of convincing for them to part with it.
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#424
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Well,... My whole thing is that I like to start from scratch. Whent he time comes I will gut out the entire kitchen. Tear walls down/ put new walls up etc. Basically layout the actual canvas ifyou know what I mean.
The old beams are coming down. They are old as hell. From the 1800's. They will sell for a pretty penny because like a fine bottle of wine,... age is priceless. And because of that I will not cut them up to fit in with the new kitchen. I will settle with my buying new lumber and carving it to look old. That will sit on my conscience better. I did plan on scrapping the old island and building a bigger one. because we use it as a prepping area/ dinning area. I was going to position it centered with the floor threshold to free up room in the actual kitchen and to help blend the two rooms together. Once I install that single glass door one the side of the current door that farther from the kitchen, I wont worry about the island blocking traffic to that door. Atleast blocking it badly. I would love to do something cool like installing the sink in the island or the oven or stove,... but we're also gong to be eating there too. We've decided a long time ago that we wouldnt have a dining room table because A: we dont really have the room fr that. B: We would never really use it. Or maybe we would if we didnt have to the island to eat on. I really want to exclude a table because the house just isnt setup for it. Wouldnt look right. I thought abot having foating cabinets too. Because A: that would be cool and B: you never have enough storage. I thought about somehow hanging them from the new ceiling beams. But,.... i also thought that maybe they would look to cumbersome. Maybe if I opened up the kitchen some I would have enough room to hang cabinets on teh wall and under the counter. I really have to draw out a couple of potential layouts to see what i have to work with. Thats what your looking for too. like i said, I will do that either tomorrow or the day after that. Talked to my girl too. Shes cool if we all agree. Would be cool to have something in the house design by a company overseas. And nice to have a kitchen of yours overseas Maybe even some pics of it on your site if you want. |
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#425
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Might work for me will do cutting list and order forms for you.You have my email add so send what ever you have when you are ready.What would the colour of the inside of your house/kitchen area be.I will post pic`s of an open ceiling soon
I will send for someone to collect those beams. ![]() To have new beams look old you can get it sandblasted, brush some pool acid on and leave to do it`s thing,leave it to dry out wipe it with a brush and colour wash with a grey pva paint and bobs your uncle. |
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#426
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Ok. Just give me some time to get all the dimensions etc. And just to let you know,... it will be a hot minute befor I ever get started on the kitchen. I'm still trying to get the basement done which is pretty big. Im only a one man team here. Also my girfriend is picky as hell. I usually have a hard time getting her to agree to anything. She is little miss decorate everything. So it might be hard for her to say ok. So please dont bend over backwards for us. I would hate for you to do a ton of hard work designing just to have her give us a big fat nope.
What a cutting list and forms?!?! Jsut to let you know nothing is for sure. Remeber I have to convince my girlfriend to go with it. Plus it will be awhile till I get started. Thanks. |
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#427
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Loosing steps
I Have beeen cutting a 1000 x230 mm carving for a client, I noticed that I am loosing steps.Two months ago I had to reload windows xp and since then the performance of the MM wasn`t that good at high speed as what I am used to, max speed is 30 mm/second.Can this be a issue?Also the x-axis go out of sinc.Can this be a gecko packing up? or can the computer give me beans.
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#428
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Hennie,
Is your kernal speed still set to 25K or is it higher? Also, check your reinstall of the LPT port driver. I have found updating or reinstalling the parallel port driver/adapter has resolved that issue for me more than once in the past 3 years. 30mm/sec is = to about 1 inch/sec or 60 ipm. is this for the z axis travel rate? |
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#429
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Hennie are you sure that you are losing steps. Could it be CV (G64)? I was surfacing my table yesterday with cv on and it missing the ends by 3" in anticipation of changing direction. When I changed it to G61 it did perfect. Forgot to try G64P.001
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#430
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I will have a look at it today,Look at the time I have been at my shop since 5 to check everything mechanical, all looks fine so far.the machine has been cutting for the last 45 min and so far ok. thanks J.R. & Sean To be honest I never thought to look for those things.( probably stressing time to get the work out )Since we all are taking strain from the economy the MM is working overtime actually the only machine in my shop doing some work.
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#431
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Also check the Post prosessor in Vectric 3D Machinist software. It likes to default to something else. Don't know if the PP can influence it.
If Gecko's are dying don't worry the others are on their way ![]() |
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#432
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I also had some red lights this morning on the x-axis gecko`s.Funny thing is that it has been cutting for the last 2 and a 1/2 hours and all is ok.Maybe my prayers have been heard.
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#433
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Hi guys,
It is good to see more people are taking the big plunge! Unfortunately it’s going rather slow on my side since I am still busy with my planning and costing. Could you guys please post details on where in South Africa you sourced your products and contact names/numbers. I find it hard if not impossible to find the right suppliers that are keen to help without ripping you off. Till later and good luck! |
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#434
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Johan, welcome I think your main supplier would be " CNC DIRECT " in Edenvale google Gregs website you can find everything there.What you can do is as your build progresses just ask.
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#435
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Thanks Hennie, will do!
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#436
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Can anybody help me with a 2.5d or 3d cutting file for a Tudor Rose, I would like to cut it for our Round Table as it needs replacement.I would like to do it like the table that is in the Winchester Hall.Thanks.
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#437
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Hennie,
I have many files to choose from and I am fairly sure that I have a Tudor rose. I will have a look when I get home if you don't get helped before then. |
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#438
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#439
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Jip, that would do.
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#441
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![]() This is my first work in Artcam. I modified something in the dxf, I deleted the third lay of petals because it was (almost) the same as the second and I thought it wasn't right. I welcome every suggestion or critics ![]() |
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#442
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Thanks and wow. It is going to be a surprise for my fellow table members.They don`t know that I am making another table as the one that is there at the moment needs replacement.
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#443
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Hi Stephane,
Generous of you to share this work ! A few hrs in this !! Buy the way, witch version of ArtCam you did this ?... With my version-8, I can’t open it as it is written by a later version…maybe 2010 ? IF so, maybe posting it in a later version would help some other too ! Thanks, Robert ![]() |
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#444
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I worked in Artcam 2008. So Artcam 8 and 2008 aren't compatible...
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#445
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ArtCam 2008 = ArtCam 8…. Same !
For some reason, I’m getting this “can’t open it as it is written by a letter date version”….. as I try to open your unzip rar file ! Maybe your build date. What it yours ? |
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#446
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As i know, the order of the versions is : ... 7,8,9,2008,2009,2010... I read somewhere that Artcam 7 was released in 2004 and I saw Artcam 9 and it seemed older than 2008. Anyway, my build is 348 (SP5)
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#447
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Dove tail joints
Ok, I tried this and I am quite impress with the results.I used some shutter ply and 12 mm ply to do joints.
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#448
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Is this not a half blind puzzle joint. I am sure that a real dovetail is also possible to do this way....just not sure about the inside corner. How will you do it not to have a rounded edge ?
But looking good, just a bit of sanding and its done. |
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#449
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Hennie,
That looks very nice! Could you let us in on how you did the setup and cut files? |
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#450
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Kobus it sits tight.I don`t think that I would achieve a proper dovetail joint with a dovetail cutter but if you look at the (leigh router joiner jigs) one could let it go as a reasonably strong joint.One thing I know is that if I use it for my drawer boxes it won`t break appart and if I use the right material it will just give that little bit of detail that the competition can`t achieve
The Little blind piece is the 18 mm shutter ply ,that I had lying around in the workshop.I would post some more samples later in the week with the same material thickness.Funny enough I am thinking there should be a way to do the real dovetail with dovetail cutters .It actually comes down to setting the MM up the same way as a dovetail jig.Heath, nice to hear from you.I took a dxf.drawing from one of the links that we got on the forum about joints I think it is on the websites that inspire thread and addapted it. I cut a 200 mm x 50 mm gap through the MM table at x-2400.It is set up like a normal dovetail jig with the one plank lying horizontal and the other one going through the table and sticking out above the table the same hight as the thickness of the plank on top.When I cut it cuts both pieces together and then you just flip it around and do the other end.It still needs some fine tunning but the idea works.I think if I use proper ply or smooth planned planks I would get a better joint.I am waiting for my bamboo to arrive from my supplier then I would cut them out of 15 mm thick bamboo sheets.It is stable and strong enough to give me a good finish. |
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