Russell,

I will give them a try. It would be nice to find some cheaper bits that works. Thanks

Nils if you dont need them right away, sign up for their email newsletter and they will often give you a promo code free shipping.

Russel, May I ask what feed & depth of cut? 1/4" bits always break on me... but can't live without them as they are required for tight curbs...

Ken, I am cutting at 300ipm, .375 deep per a pass. My Millwaukee router was set on number 4 so around 18,000 rpm. Material was marine grade baltic birch, which is very nice stuff to work with.


I know the Machine can handle a really big cut. I was planning a tool box lid when the collet must have loosened over time. I usually do this at 600ipm with the router set on 3 and depth of cut is usually around .05 to .1 with a 1/2 endmill. No really big loads here. Well the router bit started to slip down as it was cutting. On a single pass it started out at .1 and by the time it made it to the other end I was cutting .75 . Router didnt like it to much but it did plow straight through it. I now double check the collet nut before I hit start every time now.

Russel, Thanks. Some how, I can never get this type of speed with this type of depth. I can only safely run at most 2800mm/min (110ipm)at 6mm steps (1/4")... if the material is over 12mm, I'll have to reduce the final step to 3mm or the bits will snap.

Ken have you Trammed your spindle yet? Its not talked about to much here but is a important part of setting up your machine. Your Z axis could also not be square to the table.

You always square you z axis to the table first and then tram your spindle to the table. If either of these are out your are no longer cutting 3mm for you final path but a full depth cut. Spindle speed is also important your are looking for large size chips and not dust.

Link to the procedure if you havent seen it yet http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...28&postcount=5

It could also be that your material is not down to the table secure enough. Lately I have been securing with brad nails. This allows me to secure everything that might come loose off the table. I always put them in waste areas and designate that in the cam software with a drilling path to find their locations through the sheet.

Hope this helps.

I squared up the spindle (as per Gerald's instructions) when I set up the Z-axis & forget about it after that. I'll take your advise & carry out routine periodic checks in the future.
One of the reason for the vacuum holddown was suspected moving parts during cutting since I've commissioned my vacuum hold down, things do get better but it is still too early to come to a solid conclusion.

Figured it was time for an update. The machine is on vacation for the time being. Living almost 600 miles away puts a damper on turn around times. It does mean that when I do get home I get to cut my own projects out and have some fun.

These speakers are the latest project and for my first go I think they came out sounding great. Lower levels are on par with all my surrounds but once you start cranking it up you notice the difference real fast.

Here is all the info on the speakers and the design....

http://www.parts-express.com/project...trix/index.cfm

http://speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_1.html

Next time I am home I will need to Veneer them as SWMBO doesnt like a MDF finish. :rolleyes:

In a good way or a bad way?

In a good way. They have just a little more bass than my Home Theater In a Box surround sound speakers at Low Listening Levels. At music listening level they really excel, everything sounds clear, clean and effortless. Once you go to ridiculous level walls shake from high bass and you start to feel words being spoken. These do need a Sub for the woofer duties but I think you could get by if you not big into bass. I think I paid 120.00 dollars shipped to the door a few months ago and they are well worth it.

Next project is this for bass
http://billfitzmaurice.net/TT.html

Please dont mistake me as an Audiophile, Expert or anything close to it. I am just finding projects to complete while enhancing my sound system.

You have chosen wisely :).

I built a THT [Tuba Home Theatre] for my digital pipe organ... it rattles the house :cool:.

Sorry, let me rephrase that. It rattles the neighbouring houses :eek: :D.

Michel you are one lucky man. I will have a hard time sneaking this one by my wife. She really doesnt like my hobbies. First she lost her parking spot to the MM and now she is loosing room in her living room to speakers. :D

Nice speakers, Regnar.
The THT is very tempting, but I have enough WAF issues with
my pair of Sachiko single driver speakers.

https://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb...DriverSpeakers
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb

Having a CNC would have been so nice and saved me so much time.
Matter of fact, I found the Mechmate forums via a reference on one
of the DIY audio sites and have been lurking here since, and learning...

+1 to that :)

Prasad, your photo album has some seriously cool stuff. I particularly liked the Marantz rebuild.

Can you recommend any good resources for a complete DIY audio novice?

Thanks, Jeff!

I learn by hanging out on forums and reading through
other peoples builds and issues. And learnt a lot more by
just diving into my own builds.
I am more familiar with the EE side of things,
but am a total novice at woodwork and metal stuff.

For a start, I would suggest checking out the forums at Diyaudio.com,
audiokarma.org and Parts Express TechTalk forums.

All I can say is if you need a subwoofer just build one of these. Not a bad project at all and the outcome is very impressive for a 8" speaker.

I also want to put in a good word for a countersinking tool. This is not CNC orientated but still a great tool. Its called a micro stop drill. I needed a dado on one side and countersinks on the other side. This project had 242 holes that need countersinking. After the first hole setup was complete and countersinking the rest of the holes took seconds. You can get different angle countersinks for the tool at Brown tools. I picked mine up from ebay for 20 bucks.
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../301113_lg.jpg

Here are some of the build pictures.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...2/DSC02273.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...0/DSC02272.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...0/DSC02270.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...0/DSC02278.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...0/DSC02279.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...0/DSC02284.JPG

Nice Pics Russell! Wow that is one really clean shop. :)

and a nice minimill and minilathe :) I see that the mill is cnc, did you post something about your build on the cnczone? Would like to see it if you did.
Thanks

Nice job!
Is that a back/front load horn or is it a TQWT?

Heath, Thanks for the comment. You should see it on a clean day.

Danilo, I dont think I did one over there but I did post a few projects. Nothing big just small things. You can search for my post under Regnar there too.

Ken, To be honest I have no clue. The horn starts off the front end of the woofer and the back end is free to air.

Is the driver facing outward than it is a back-loaded horn, if it faces into the box than it is a front-loaded horn.
I just love horn...

As long as you leave our Rhino horn alone.;)

Some of the latest projects......

How did you do the benchtops, Russell?

I did something similar for my son's toolbox but I like yours better. :-)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58...enchtop_sm.jpg

The skull is filled with epoxy so the benchtop is much flatter than it appears.

Jeff the 3 Examples there are all done differently. The black one I just spray painted and when over the top with a 120 grit belt sander. The others I just stained carefully.

I should also mention that I use Bar Topper after Im done painting or staining. I/We tried Poly and well the results where horrible. I now tell people to use that or Im not part of the evolution. Just poor and forget. Slow curing and self leveling well worth the money.

Jeff having a contrasting color really helps make it pop. For tight areas I use a syringe and float the areas. The wood usually soaks up everything.

@Russel; VERY nice. Top notch work. I specially like the "In case of emergency.. Break Glass".. Nice!..

Russell,
I am sure you know the tricks, but if you use a heat gun you can get the bubbles to release in the pour if it starts to kick to quick.

I agree with you. Well worth the 300 bucks for a quart of topper.

Nice work Russell. Noticed the super glossy finish straight away.

Ross

I really wish I took more pictures of this box. The new owner really likes Crown Royal. We cut the mini bottle into the top and hung a Small "Elf" off the side of the tool box. In the bottom drawer there was foam cutouts to hold two bottles of crown, a couple of glasses, and a ice pitcher. Oyeah the tool box was Crown Royal Purple as well.



Sean the stuff we are using is about 1/10 the cost of yours. 23.99 for a Quart here. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...&storeId=10051

I have used the heat gun method before and it does work nicely. When at work I use a vacuum pot to pull all the air bubbles out of the coating after mixing. I also try and poor in a nice thin stream. All the methods seem to work out but to be honest there is always one missed air bubble in there somewhere.

Just finished reading all, in a single setting and I am impressed.....my welding techinque is different and less expensive ....use CO2 for gas (Cheaper) and you have to clean all welds for painting any way ....it's just yellow smut ! Plus you get a hotter burn as CO2 is used when welding thick plate with innersheild( fluxcore). In structual welding, continuous welds aren't used that much....I tack on all 4 corners and then weld about a inch space evenly on the say, web of the I-beam, then I would weld an inch on the outer flange ends, top and bottom and then wrap it around the end of the flange toward the web about an inch. if the web is long, then space the 1 inch welds , say with 3 inchs between....Also there is a technique for straightening I-beam ...heat the outside bow of the flange in a V, and cool with a wet rag ....using a string youcan get them real straight. 30 to 50 footers in some of the big buildings in Jacksonville....was a Marine Hull Repairman in the Army. thanks for the posted detail in this build 1

Russell, Unfortunately I don't have a MechMate, YET! but I do have the same sort of problem with the garage door height that you have. I just found your post and I was wondering how it turned out in the end. I am going to try the same sort of thing you did and any tips you have learned since you first implemented this mod would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith

Keith,

The system works very well and cannot complain about it. If I was going to do it all over again I would have made my own tube and not purchased the 4" pvc pipe. This way I could have made it a 5" or 6" square tube and eased the bends in a little better and increased airflow.

All in all I am happy with the way it turned out.

Russell

Well figured we would do an update. Not a whole lot of cutting going on. The MM is 600 miles away but that will all change Memorial Day weekend. Once I have it all setup I will be cutting like crazy.

I have close to 30 projects lined up but the first one out the door is for my wife and soon to be son. She would like to turn the nursery into a jungle with cartoon figures all over. I think it will be a fun project.

I will post progress and pictures along the way. But in the mean time here is the latest toolbox lid I did. The plaque, coins and wings are all inlayed into the top. The Mountain Dew logo and Helo are V carved. I didnt do the finish work on this but was told the bar topper didnt come out that good. Reason being is a dummy cleaned it with Alcohol before it set up. New owner is going to poor another layer and shine it up.

Very nice!
Was coloring the logo difficult?

Good choice of 1st project, must make the wife happy :D to ensure more future project ;)

Ken coloring the logo was easy. I use a syringe to place the color into the bottom of the V carve. Take an acid brush dip in the paint and swipe up the sides. Get a clean crisp line and its very quick. Next time I will shoot a video of me doing it so people can see.

Russell:

Outstanding. Thanks for the pics and the inspiration.

Joe

Russell,

Your signs look great, nice work.
The colouring adds another dimension, and nice work on the inlays.

Thanks for sharing.
Tony.

Thanks for the complements guys. Well I was able to spend a few hours cutting out some MDF today. All the Jungle animals will be for my nursery while the Hogs and Airforce Star and Stripes if for another guy.

To give ya an ideal on size the Giraffe is 8ft tall. If you guys dont hear from me in a few weeks its because I am out in the garge sanding and painting.

The first photo is the scene that I want to recreate in the room. I still have to cut out a few monkeys, a snake, and a lot of foliage.

MDF animals
 

Russell those animals look GREAT!!! :) :)

Where ever did you find the files/images?

I wouldn't mind cutting them for my granddaughter.