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-   -   Just Checking In and Catching Up #44 - Delhi India (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2224)

aniljangra Sun 31 January 2010 00:35

Right, That was one of my thoughts and as I pulled up the freq/step calculator, can see that my full step resolution is .094mm, very near to the resolution (0.1mm) we are working.

Though the micro-step resolution is 10 times more, still there will be rounding off errors. And I think even if there was no rounding off error, the micro-step position is not held up as accurately as fill step position.

Gerald D Sun 31 January 2010 01:26

I have this nagging belief that the micro-step position is not held at all, but the smart people tell me that it is. If I am really bored one day, I could test it.

aniljangra Sun 31 January 2010 10:50

2 Attachment(s)
No more boring small PCBs this time :)

This is one of the two-parts divider ...
Attachment 8384

This is how I plan to use it, the upper part is yet to be done..
Attachment 8385

Measure 2.5' x 5' approx, used 3mm end mill cutting 2mm per pass at 80ipm. Total four passes in 8mm thick mdf and total time to cut about 3 hours.

javeria Sun 31 January 2010 10:54

please do a duco finish on that one - also probably enforce it with sheet of cast acrylic on bothside or on one side and yes email me the file :)

Gerald D Sun 31 January 2010 11:12

Talking of cast acrylic, how about casting acrylic (various colours) into the cutouts?

Nic job Anil!

Kobus_Joubert Sun 31 January 2010 11:32

I like I like well done

aniljangra Sun 31 January 2010 11:32

Thanks Gerald for the cutout idea, wish I had that earlier :(
I did not keep the original vectors and just have the outlines now. I think the cutouts won't fit exactly if I work reverse from outlines now.

Something to remember in future, to keep copies of file from each step as you design.

normand blais Sun 31 January 2010 11:33

Hi
mil might come from french( millième ) thousand ,we say the same like 4 mill but :)with the french accent. Nice divider acrylic would be great !

Gerald D Sun 31 January 2010 12:11

Anil, I am thinking of pouring a liquid into the openings. Something like this: http://www.creative-resins.co.uk/lamresin.htm

Claudiu Sun 31 January 2010 13:07

Very nice divider, how long did you cut on this one. CV or exact stop?

KenC Sun 31 January 2010 21:13

Must get my MM running.... must get my MM running... must get my MM running...

aniljangra Mon 01 February 2010 08:06

Nice song Ken :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Anil, I am thinking of pouring a liquid into the openings. Something like this: http://www.creative-resins.co.uk/lamresin.htm
Yes thats a possibility, need to find out the availability and price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claudiu View Post
Very nice divider, how long did you cut on this one. CV or exact stop?
Claus, total a little less than 3 hours with CV on.

aniljangra Mon 01 February 2010 21:32

1 Attachment(s)
Other part of the divider done, need some finishing on other side.
Attachment 8395

Used (snapped) 4mm endmill, total time 4 hours.

javeria Tue 02 February 2010 06:31

good snapping :)

jhiggins7 Tue 02 February 2010 08:15

Anil,

Great work. Very impressive.:)

What's "snapping"? I'm sorry if I should already know this.

I was wondering if you are monitoring the temperature of the Drives and Motors. Since you have "Open", DIY built drives, their performance "under load" is of interest to some of us that are considering using them as well.

aniljangra Tue 02 February 2010 08:36

Last 2 jobs were about 2 and 4 hours respectively. I noted that the drives were getting hot (but nothing that can't hold finger over it).

The temperature was samilar for 2 hours or 4 hour job, so I think that's max it can go irrespective of the time after a initial period.

I mounted the fan blowing air over them and how they run cool :)

Gerald D Tue 02 February 2010 09:18

John, look at the text just below the pic. . . . I think snapped means "broke" :)

javeria Tue 02 February 2010 10:50

did you not choke to the dust of that mdf, i heard that ur machine is now locked forever in the room you built it in :D

aniljangra Tue 02 February 2010 11:01

I want to do something for dust but don't have space for anything more, at least for now I'll continue as it is with masks :(

I can remove a wall if I want it out :), I was advised to do a bolted design but as I said earlier I like welded stuff somehow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
John, look at the text just below the pic. . . . I think snapped means "broke" :)
You guessed it right Gerald , sorry John if that's not correct English :)

javeria Tue 02 February 2010 11:11

hey get the eureka forbes vacuum cleaner thats like 8k I think and get a 12 inch industrial exhaust fan - almonard brand is 2k

remove a wall- what do you have hinges on em :D

RGDS
Irfan

domino11 Tue 02 February 2010 11:27

Nice work on the PCB Anil! A lot of guys that are doing pcb work seem to have jigs that they can surface right before they cut the pcb to make sure everything is flat as of that day. They also will raise up the work so that the Z has as little extension and less flex as possible.

Jason Marsha Tue 02 February 2010 16:21

Anil,
Excellent work.

I thought I was the only person that used the corridor as storage for my MDF and plywood sheets :D , it sends the others in the house crazy.

You may want to experiment with a slower speed like 40 inches/min but with a single 8mm plunge, that will reduce your cut times significantly and save your bits.
With a 2mm plunge you will cut one path four times and with MDF being very abrasive on tools it may lead to premature failure.

What brand bit are you using?
Is it a spiral upcut?

If possible post a closeup pic of your bit.

I have used Whiteside spiral upcut 3.175 mm and 6.35 mm diameter bits and they have worked well.

Jason

Rad Racer Wed 03 February 2010 19:26

Anil - Claus,

I really like the dividers you guys are making.....very detailed design. What software did you use for the design work?

aniljangra Thu 04 February 2010 01:23

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino11 View Post
Nice work on the PCB Anil! A lot of guys that are doing pcb work seem to have jigs that they can surface right before they cut the pcb to make sure everything is flat as of that day. They also will raise up the work so that the Z has as little extension and less flex as possible.
Heath, thanks for the tips. Anyhow I did the PCB job on MM because my other small machine is in not in functional state. I need to make some space for that and make it functional again to do pcbs )(thats was the reason it was made :))

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Marsha View Post
Anil,
Excellent work.

I thought I was the only person that used the corridor as storage for my MDF and plywood sheets :D , it sends the others in the house crazy.
You may want to experiment with a slower speed like 40 inches/min but with a single 8mm plunge, that will reduce your cut times significantly and save your bits.With a 2mm plunge you will cut one path four times and with MDF being very abrasive on tools it may lead to premature failure.

What brand bit are you using? Is it a spiral upcut? If possible post a closeup pic of your bit.

I have used Whiteside spiral upcut 3.175 mm and 6.35 mm diameter bits and they have worked well.
Jason
Jason, I only had worked in metal before and I am just starting with wood/mdf stuff.
The bits I have are 4 flute carbide meant for metal work, I'll try if I can get (as you said) "spiral upcut" bits. Also will try your suggested strategy of low speed with more pluge next time :). Still learning..
Attachment 8430Attachment 8431

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rad Racer View Post
Anil - Claus,

I really like the dividers you guys are making.....very detailed design. What software did you use for the design work?
Wayne, I use Corel, that's the only one vector program I have a my work. In fact any vector program can be used, you just want node editing and weld/combine features.

Gerald D Thu 04 February 2010 02:16

Anil, those 4-flute metal cutting bits are not designed for drilling in the z-direction (the center of the bit has no cutting edges)

However, the 2-flute metal cutting bits can usually drill. And they have bigger space between the "blades" for clearing the sawdust out.

By far the most common cutter we use for MDF is the 2-flute solid carbide bit from the shop that sells to the metal cutters. ;)

normand blais Thu 04 February 2010 06:32

4 flute cutter need to move faster or rotate slower so it dont end up rechopping chips into dust and creating heat and wear. Also a 1/4 inch step down only wear the first quarter inch of the cutter even going 2 '' down

KenC Thu 04 February 2010 07:42

Quote:
Originally Posted by normand blais View Post
4 flute cutter need to move faster or rotate slower so it dont end up rechopping chips into dust and creating heat and wear. Also a 1/4 inch step down only wear the first quarter inch of the cutter even going 2 '' down
Pardon my ignorant, what is the advantage of the wear pattern?

Gerald D Thu 04 February 2010 07:55

If you make two passes at a 1/4" deep....compared to one pass at 1/2" deep

The deep, low number of passes gives you double the bit life because you are only make half the number of passes. But the bit is worn for the last 1/2" inch.

normand blais Thu 04 February 2010 08:27

1/4 inch dull and 1 3/4 sharp on 2 inch flute cutter

aniljangra Thu 04 February 2010 10:32

wow, good info here to learn from.

I'll probably get my spindle in few days and can then experiment with more plunge, right now my die grinder seems overworked with high plunge or high feed.


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