A stab in the dark: Is it possible that the pinions are not round, or are not centered on the motor shafts, and thus are acting in a cam like fashion?

I have the same problem with one 2m piece of rack, when its a full mesh it makes terrible noise, but its precise as any other, so I am waiting for it to wear and replace it in a year or two.

Can the motor spring pull the teeth tight against each other? Two possible reasons why they do not go tight:
- there is a mechanical block at the slot for the stabilising screw (maybe the edge of the teflon washer has fallen into the slot)
- the gear teeth shapes are incorrect and the tip of a tooth touches the valley on the other side (only the sides of the teeth must make contact)

Thank you all for chipping in.
@Brad: Pinions are round, and centered to motor shaft. I had to re drill the holes to fit the shaft.
@Gerald: I had that problem and there was some space from pinions to rack, but greasing the washers sorter that problem.
Also had the edge of the Teflon was not moving properly but that also is sorted.
Will post pictures today, just to see how wierd looks and how good it sounds now.
Have to test the precision, and will check the pinion and rack from suppliers.

While waiting to camera to recharge, here is a low quality pic from mobile.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psa87d16dd.jpg

On 1st M, I broke a bit, thats why its not good as the others.
Also alignment is not perfect, but im very satisfied.

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1d06353.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps765bae58.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps888691db.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psd707438b.jpg

I think it looks just fine :)

Tanks Steve.
Now I am trying to figure out the breaout board to connect E stops and limit switches.
My questions is can i put them both on pin 10, or they have to be configured on different ports. I know limit switches will be connected in series, like E stops, so it looks like the could be connected on same pin.
Another thing, im looking to configure the E stops in Mach, and not sure how to connect E switches.
One side should go to pin 10, but other should go to 5V power pin?

Hey this looks like it needs a number too !! That looks like a logo to me :D !!!

Cool cover.

You get #107

Thanks Mike. :)
Will do decals in a couple of days, to get proper look of MechMate.
This deserves manufacturing plate.
This is how it looks on machine.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps82336e4d.jpg

Updated Builder's Log
 

Marko,

Here's the Updated Builder's Log with your log entry. Please provide the dimensions of your MechMate for the record.

Congratulations Marko on getting number 107 ! Great build

Thank you John
Outer dimension are 2800x2100 mm. will measure dutting are today, coz i had some modifications.
Thank you Andrew, playing with it like a little boy finding his 1st bike.

Congrats

Congratulations on #107, wishing good luck for you and machine.

Thank you Pete and Paulo.
The process of getting to know each other is best described like starting a relationship with a girl you liked for a long time.
Cant get enough, and day is too short.

Been working some toys for kids.
Vacuum table would be a major improvement. I had some close encounters with machine stumping to a piece of chips and all shit brakes loose. End bits are stronger than I imagined. Live and learn :o

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f58dfee.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7eb6f9e1.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1a841ca6.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psb0a0cde1.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps934ba904.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24a9e4de.jpg

Looks like fun.

How are you clamping down the work? Everyone clamps differently and planning out the release of corners, angles and scrap can be a pain but worth learning. You can leave a skim level of material between the stock and part and remove it later with a hand tool of your choice. Vacuum is great for some parts but few can design a vacuum layout that is assignable to accommodate every combination of parts you want to cut at an affordable level. A vacuum box is one solution if the parts are small. I have thought about those but I opted to layout a clamp down layout using the spoilboard with T nuts install in it.

You probably know most of this but here is some useful information.

Here is some useful information
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCMillFeedsSpeeds.htm

Another
http://cucfablab.org/sites/cucfablab...ting_guide.pdf

Marko, I like those games! The first game should be good for adults too, if the magnet sticks are a bit weak and it is played at an angle :D

Gerald, I am sure you remember the two sided ones that had multiple holes to switch sides to get to the end of the game. You don't see them much anymore here the US. It is nice to see someone making them still.

Pete, I had never seen something similar before!

Hi Gerald and Pete,

These toys are for kids to help them learn writing moves, and coordination eye and hand.
It has been designed to help kids with disabilities in development, and general for development of the young ones.
Still looking to paint them properly, thinking of airbrush.
About vacuum table, not sure how will I do it, but will have to do something about it.
New end bits and some better planning, but now im thinking about cyclone and will that help out.
Thanks for link, very helpfull :)

Marko, do you know Valchromat ?
you don't need to paint :-)
http://www.valchromatsa.com/

Thanks Sergio,

I had no idea that this type of wood exist. Al thou I dont belive I can find it in Croatia, because here I cant find even springs for my MM.
Not sure if that wood is painted inside? When cut . That would be a blast.
I have been doing some carbon fiber cutting, and here are the results.
Diamond end bit way lowest quality ever, but with additional sanding I got decent results.
Some pictures:
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps601b3741.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68cbedaa.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps050d6496.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps587466d0.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cc92482.jpg

http://www.valchromat.pt/distribuidores.aspx?menuid=88
:-)
and yes, it's "paitend inside" that's the good thing, no need to paint.

Long time no see.
MM is not being in use lately, but in a week or two will go full throttle.
Here some pics of working aluminium. 4 flute 2.5 mm end bit.
I think I need a better chip rate. Will have to work out the spindle rpm's to the feed rate.
Next one will be 1 flute aluminium, maybe it will help out.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd442b82.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psf5f9dc7c.jpg

yes look like you are using a steel bit and your rpm and speed are to fast .. so the aliminum is like melting.
plus is allways a good idea to use some lubrication not because the heat just to avoid aluminum sticks to the bit.
is just my small experience.. there are many users that use succefully the machine on aluminum

Aluminum will gum if it does not have a lubricant. On a mill WD-40 does wonders for producing a clean shiny surface after a pass and keeps the chips from sticking to the end mill. But we are only spinning at 800 to 1000 rpm.

Thank you guyz,

I was spinning around 12000 rpm's , and 4 flute is 2 much and 2 shallow.
Will try with one flute.
Not sure about my spindle, will it not hurt him for using it on 6000 rpm?
Max power is 1.5 Kwh, but the china guy told me not to run it at low RPMs. Not sure what is the load on the spindle while cutting aluminium at 3 mm sec.
Will try to use WD40 next time.
My concern while cutting this part, was the strip marks on the bends strip. Was that decent or it could go way better?

The bottom of pockets will always have that mown grass look.
It is an artifact of the direction of the rotation of the square cutter tips being in opposite directions along its centerline for each single pass.
Expensive mills produce exactly the same markings.
It is possible to further polish out imperfections with a felt bob and cutting paste, to flap disk sand etc for a different finished look.
You should see the pattern but not feel the pattern.

Ross