Greg,

Per your post:

Did you notice this specification on the Factorymation site? See page 4, paragraph 4, Control Circuit Characteristics:

http://factorymation.info/motor_cont...N-9toCN-16.pdf

Looks like the energized power consumption is 12 VA. I don't know what "SEALED" means.

To get to the specification, click on CN-16-F6 on this page: http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=1&gl=us

Regards,
John

Hi Greg,

I can understand what you're talking about. The anticipation is killing me.

It's really painful waiting for parts (that should have been ordered sooner) to be delivered.

I'm also trying to figure out how Gerald knew about the lawn ornaments.:p

Thanks John,

Don't know how I missed that...:)

Looks like around 6 or so amps. That's good to know.

The relay I was going to use can only handle 6 amps. That's not enough head room for me. I may go with a contactor like Gerald recommends, or an auto relay like J.R. uses. Just happen to have one of those on hand.:)

12VA consumed off a 120V circuit means only 0.1 Amp (Volts X Amps = VA)

Inrush 70VA is the figure I would design for. Also make sure your relay's contacts open wide (and fast) enough to handle 120V.

I thought amps were RMS volts (volts *.707) / VA?

It makes sense that it should be able to handle the inrush current however it shouldn't ever see that. The start drives button should take that load then once released pass the hold current through the stop drives circuit.

VA is definitely Volts X Amps, equivalent to Watts.

Eg. think of a 500 VA power supply giving 10 Amp @ 50 Volt

Greg,

Okay, I think I've finally spent enough time with your Control Box wiring layout to understand what you're doing.

First, as usual, Gerald is right. The INRUSH "current" at 120 volts would be 70 VA divided by 120 volts or about .6 Amps, i.e. 600 milliamps. That's not much of a challenge for most relays with contacts rated to switch 120 volts AC. So assuming your 12 VDC coil relay has contacts rated for switching 120 volts AC, you should be fine...you already said the contacts are rated for 6 Amps.

Second, I would like to revisit Brad's issue about leaving the 12V DC supply powered all the time per the following quote:

I saw your response, but I wonder if it's usual practice to turn off the Disconnect Switch between machine uses. It appears that the purpose of that Disconnect is to remove all power from the Control Box, not to turn on and turn off the machine. I would think that that switch would be normally left on unless opening the Control Box.

My plan is to turn on the 12 VDC power supply in parallel with the Contactor when the On Button (in your case Start Drives button) is depressed. It will be "latched" on by the same Contactor contact that latches the Contactor. Just a thought.

Regards,
John

HI John, I dont know if what Greg has done is right or wrong - but I have taken a similar approach.

I have a 24V DC power which is always on status when power is switched on to the controller. this powers the Estop, proximities, pause, start switches.

a key switch is used in series with estop to activate the contactor.

the reason behind using 24V is to have a common DC voltage powering all accessories wiithout trouble of facing a possible shock from the 220v supply.

I will be powering the 24V transformer with a 500mA fuse in between which will take care of any shorts on the small transformer end. and also any failure of the transformer will auto trigerr an estop.

ok wait I am I on topic, well still i will continue

The different inputs have opto isolated inputs to the BOB.

RGDS
Irfan

Irfan,

I don't think there is a "right" or "wrong" on this point. I, along with, I am sure others, have become more aware of the "energy" cost of "always on" devices. So, the design I have been working on takes this into account.

Have you wired your 24 volt supply to be powered through the Disconnect?
If yes, do you plan to turn off the Disconnect between machine uses or do you plan to leave the Disconnect engaged and power on and off the table using the On Button and Off Button?

BTW, Irfan, I have followed your progress with great interest. Thanks for sharing.:)

Regards,
John

If I understand correctly the disconnect is the contactor - I will be switching it on and off thru a relay powered by the 24V supply,

the whole set up is put on - off by the rotary on off switch. (in my case it is wall mounted)

RGDS
Irfan

The 12/2 ga shielded cable showed up today.

It's a milspec M27500-12 SD2T23. The down side.....Not very flexible.....the individual wires are about the same as 12ga stranded thhn. That's not the least of it. After cutting off the outer jacket I noticed that the shielding was very black. when I cut off the inner jacket of the individual wires it was the same. It looks either VERY old or as though it sat in water. There were 37 strands in each conductor. I'm glad I only paid .35/ft

The 14/3 ga I received from Ebay is much more flexible. Each wire contains 40 strands. I went ahead and used the 14ga. It only has about 15ft or so to travel so I don't expect it to be a problem.

Greg,

Thanks for the update. I was wondering if you had received that MIL SPEC cable.

Great pictures and analysis. Saved me from going down that same path.:D
The 14 ga. from Ebay looks good.

Regards,
John

Greg,
Sorry for the problems with wire #1. From the look of the tarnishing, it looks like the wire was silver coated. This is probably why it tarnished to black. Dont use this wire! Not a good idea to use it at all in this condition. :(

Good news....Got things running tonight!:D

I still have a lot of work to do but I do have the motors turning and axis moving..

I had to make a few changes to the wiring. First I needed to run a separate neutral wire to the router indicator light and to the power on light. I had the power light inline with the contactor coil and it didn't like that, and the way the router light was wired would have been 220v. I also realized that there was no need for the second 12v transformer so I made changes to that wiring as well.

The HV E-Stop works. I just need to test the LV E-Stop, pause and start butons. I also need to finish getting the prox sensors set up.

Now for the bad news. I got called out of town and won't be able to work on the MM for at least a week.:mad:

Here are some photos of my control box. I still have a little tidying up to do but for the most part it's finished. I will say that if I did it over again I would definately use a larger box.

Cheers.

Well done Greg!

What are your control box dimensions?

Thanks Gerald,

The box is 20x16x8.....Inches that is. Granted my extremely oversized powersupply doesn't help the situation. I believe only 2 more inches height (width as viewed) would have made life much easier.

Good going Greg, nice work. (cutting before Christmas?)

I agree with you on the box size, my hands are just too big to work comfortably on all those closly spaced components, I would also go for a bigger box just to make working inside it easier.

Greg,
Looking good! Hope everything else goes well for you. :)

Thanks Alan & Heath,

Back in town tonight. Can't wait to get back to work on the MM.:) If I went out to the garage tonight I think the wife would make me stay out there. :eek:

Looks like tomorrow morning.

Missed the "12":(

14?:D

*starts dusting off the #14*

Great work Greg. Looking really good.
I would have thought that #13 was up for grabs first. 14 is my favourite number and I was hoping for that one, oh well should have started building or maybe I'll just bribe Gerald to reserve it for me :rolleyes:

Jayson.

EDIT***

I see 13 is taken... Maybe Greg could have 12 :)

Nope, Nils has already snagged #12, dont think anyone could wrestle that one out of his hands! :)

It Cuts
 

Tried running the roadrunner included with Mach.

This is what I came up with. It looks like part of the drawing is missing.

I still have to figure out how to use Mach and decide on a cad/cam program

Just waiting on my logos.:)

Nearly there Greg!

The free version of Mach3 limits the number of steps - I wonder if that is why your file stopped running?

I'm sure that's it. There is code in the display after the line that it stops on.

Time to purchase a license.

Roadrunner is over 4000 lines, free Mach3 stops at 1000 lines.

Greg M

Congratulations. I ran a lot of those Road Runners cuttings in the air. Air CNC - it saves wood and you don't need a bit.

or dust extraction .:p

I finally purchased my copy of Mach 3.

That solved the problem of the incomplete roadrunner.:)

Kobus, you just reminded me that I still have to figure on the dust collection system.:eek:

My machine is covered with sheets and other projects I have going on right now but I was able to get my logos attached. I'll take some pics later this week of the whole machine.

Congratulations Greg_M,

Looks like another # ? ;)

That looks like top of the line logos :D:p

Finally - think #15 is ready!

Only the best J.R.:D

Here is a link to the machine cutting the partial road runner, out of the box settings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH8UYkPjicY

Hey Irfan.....how much longer for your number???;)

I will take the position for the longest built ever Greg - I running into all sort of troubles :D

and my 2 week vacation is over today :)

RGDS
Irfan

Well done Greg, but keep the pictures comming. I for one would like to see what each person is making on his MM....this will stimulate more cutting idea's.

Greg M,

Congratulations on # 15. Yea.

Doesn't matter how long it took, you did it. Cutting the Road Runner is nice but wait until you cut some thing more complicated. You will have so much fun watching the machine do its thing.

Well done Greg, feels good doesn't it?

Well done Greg. Thanks for waiting so that I could get #14, its just a shame others didn't follow your lead ;)

Looking forward to seeing further updates.

Jayson