Well, we have a success, the PMDX-126, DM860a drivers and Antek PS-10N70R5R12 turned the Longs Motors 34HS5850 stepper in test mode. Even though it does not do a lot in test mode doesn't make it insignificant. I'm uploading a video to flicker right now (large File) looks like it will be a while before its ready. I have to figure out how to create smaller video file sizes in my daughter's new ipod (more junk to learn). I'll post as soon as its ready.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thomas_ayres_jr/9269994813

Let's see if that'll work

Tom, that is a significant and worthwhile start . . . well done. Motion without smoke must have given you more confidence, and a feeling of priorities.

Gerald you are right, I do feel more confident but there is much more to be learned. This step removed a lot of the questions. Next is getting the computer set up to make more than 1 motor working, this will be a breeze if I've done my homework right, then on to the actual control box set up. Thanks guys.

All-righty-then, can anyone tell me exactly the kind of printer cable I'm supposed to have? All male/male cables that I find are 'switchbox' cables not parallel. Will this work or do I need to keep looking?

A standard parallel cable will work just fine. With the 126 PMDX sells a cable assembly that works with a standard cable. Reference Here

Thanks Pete, turns out that I had one in the closet that works, but had already ordered another.

I got the steppers to operate under Mach3 (demo)but I noticed when I was jogging at 100% that the steppers would run for a bit than sorta lock up and make sounds as if it were running (but different):eek: is this something that has to do with tuning, interference or is that step loss?

That sounds like a stall but could not know for sure without seeing it. Double check your velocity and acceleration settings again. When you ran the driver test, what did it say? Is your pulse steady or fluctuating?

While jogging on let's say 50% feed , is the motor sound constant and does not change tone? Mach driver test is not something that can for sure say you got a computer problem.

Irregular pulse rate can stall steppers, because the smallest pause or interruption in pulse stream makes drive to decelerate the motor and then the next pulse comes too fast, stepper can't accelerate and stalls.

Pete the driver test shows that it fluctuates sometimes as much as 50. I noticed when I move the mouse a lot that the pulses start to drop and there are quite a few spikes, so it may be related to the usb port interupts or maybe the lpt port set-up (on-board). I have a dual port pci parallel port card in but haven't figure out how to get it operating yet. I'll start with shutting down some of the usb ports (8 of them). I'm not sure what my velocity and acceleration should be during testing or on the table for that matter.

Danilo, I think that's part of it. Well there certainly could be interruptions from emf's because everything is within a 3ft area, wires flying everywhere, one big mess, nothing pretty.

Tom,
As long as you do not have a VFD running and you do not have motors laying on wires you should be okay. Older cordless phones and wireless routers can be noisy plus newer DISH receivers create noise at certain states of power up. My scanner picks it up all the time. Check your port settings on you LPT. Mach's forum is the place to get great support on Mach problems. When Mach is open and on your diagnostics screen the pulse rate should be steady with minimal movement. It should lock in.

From your video, Install some stand-offs if you do not have them under the 126, stray currents may pass on the surface that it is laying on. Also your drain wires should be tied to ground to properly remove any noise that could be in your wires. Only attach the drain on one end only to allow it to work properly. It is not in the video

This is most likely a setup issue and should be expected when setting up any new piece of machinery. Although these items can be frustrating, work through them.

Remember Einstein said this...."We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them."

Thanks Pete, absolutely nothing is grounded at all at this point but I will pursue. I've got an Eagle Scout ceremony to assist with this afternoon so everything is put on the back burner for today (unless I can sneak in some time, he he). Einstein... he was a fairly smart fella wasn't he?

I have a choice of spur gear materials, High Carbon and Low Carbon. Which would be easier to ream to size?

If it is true high carbon then it can be as hard as spring steel. It would be very ornery to machine. Not that it could not be done but you would have to have inserts for cutting hard materials for the lathe you would have to use.

The high carbon gear would be intended for further heat treatment to harden/toughen it. (You cannot heat treat low carbon steel). However, the high carbon version will be sold to you before heat treatment, and it is therefore as easy to machine as the low carbon version.

Since spur gears are dirt cheap in-comparison to the rack. I would use soft pinion.
Unless I have a life time supply of free rack... than I'll harden my pinion.

I opted for the plain steel rack and pinion from McMaster Carr. I am with Ken

I got my rack from standard steel, so I'm not sure what the hardness would be. I'll get the low carbon spurs.

We used to wear out low carbon pinions within a year or two. Now running hardened gears and both the pinions and racks are doing fine after 4 plus years (with heavier duty use)

Tom, any progress?

Pete, I haven't bailed on you, wish I could say its all done, but I'm on another honey-do list and finishing up a 'paying job'. I am gathering the last of the small stuff needed (like the grub screws for the pinions). I haven't decided who's belt reduction plates I want to copy (already have the belts and pulleys 3.6:1, bearings & shafts) or if I'm just going for a spindle at the start. However I should be able to get back on this in about 2-3 weeks. Believe me I want to see some progress too! Thanks for asking.

A 3.6:1 or 4:1 will render plenty of resolution. Mine are high only because I was re-using the same steppers from the gearbox. I wanted to stay within the design capacity of the original. My Z is a 4:1.

I hear you on the other projects. I was back to cabinets, then tore off to do a relative's fence, then a chimney repair. Now I have to build a shed before winter.

3.6 is the sweet spot. The perfect compromise between fast table jog and surface speeds and resolution.

Pete I thought if I went with the 4:1 that the small pulley would be too small to have enough meat to hold the grubs. I have to ream the small pulleys to 14mm to fit the steppers so I went with the 20t. Like Sean said, I too think its the 'sweet spot'. Any suggestions for who has a good plate to copy or 'simulate'?;) I either want to be able to make them myself from aluminum or just have a local laser guy cut them from steel, but I don't want to make anything that requires additional machine work to make it work.

Ross's (SurfCNC) drives are pretty cool, he had his laser cut. Can't remember what ratio he used, I think it was 4:1.

Thanks Bruce, I have seen his but can not seem to get them to print or even accept dim lines to verify sizes. But they look cool.

Illegal in Florida
 

Thomas saw your video on flickr. Did you take the pic of the iced trees. That is a perfect shot. I would copy it and hang it but I think it is illegal in Florida. I have been out cutting, drilling and tapping steel. I want to get most of the base done before it starts raining again (fat chance). My gear rack showed up along with the vrail. I will spent tomorrow mounting it. later

Mike, you're not letting any grass grow under your feet are you? Yep, the picture is a good one, we've got a place in Cape Coral, Florida, and I would say its probably illegal to have ice anywhere there.:D Have fun.

Tom, since you say that you were worried about the small pulley being too small, you may have to make your own design. Even with laser cutting there usually is some machining required but not always. There are some really reasonable laser cut services out there. The lowest quote I had on my plates for my 7.2:1 drive plates which where roughly 10"x20" was $8 per piece for 0.187" pio steel. If you love machining and shiny surfaces then use aluminum. I used all xl pulleys and belts. Maybe others will chime in about what they used. My small pulleys on all of my belt reductions are 18 tpi.

Pete, the cost is not the issue, I guess I just didn't want to spend any additional time trying to reinventing the wheel. I could go direct drive and cut parts until I found one that suits me, but then I'd have to order more spur gears and more machining. What size spur gear do you run and what would you recommend for the 3.6:1? I thought that maybe I'd have to drive direct at first so I purchased 24T. What's you thoughts?

30 tooth 20° PA. I would just do the belt drive if the money and time is not the issue. The reinventing part is not so true. Every design has strengths and weaknesses. Plus you have to give some to the materials you have available to use. Your machine build may require a minimal space or different angle to mount the reduction assembly. Anything can be improved.

Well Pete you may be right about the wheel. Maybe I'll just play with it awhile and see what I've come up with. Perhaps I'll pickup some aluminum plate. I've already gotten all parts for the drives except the plates. So you recommend 30t spurs, is that common among the MM community? Is the 24t OK to use for now or not? What do some of you other guys have?

From what I read originally the 30 tooth was common. Others may chime in.

Well looks like I need to order some. It had been a while since I read anything on spurs and must have not researched it much, last I remember was someone recommending 25 and 30's and keeping 28's as spares, oh well. Thanks Pete.

I used a 30 tooth spur gear and it works great!

Thanks Chris, I ordered a set of thirties last week and should be here this week. Are you loving your machine yet?

I ordered a cheapo 2.2 kw water cooled spindle and vfd yesterday, thought I'd give it a try. I opted for this path because it would cost near enough to put fresh bearings in the PC and new mount plus I'd still have crap and crap power, just crap. Question, is a shielded 3 core 2.5 mm2 cable what I need for power to this thing? And should I attempt to fabricate a mount for this thing or does it require a fair amount of accuracy?

Oh yeah, I am. It's pretty surreal owning a such a huge and useful piece of robotic equipment. I'm still getting past the phase of it actually being finished. :D

Tom, welcome to the spindle club. They are awesome little things. If you are willing to splash out on a bulletproof mount for it try this one from cncrouterparts. http://www.cncrouterparts.com/80-mm-...unt-p-102.html Without the mounting plate (primarily for ali extrusion) it runs at USD$78. I'll be swapping my K2CNC style spindle mount for one of these for my machine.

1.5mm square screened cable from the VFD to Spindle will do most likely. I used 2.5mm sq from the mains to the VFD. The Spindle is 3 phase out of the VFD. I would make sure the mount is very accurate or you could risk damaging the spindle.