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Updated Builder's Log
Marko,
Here's the Updated Builder's Log with your log entry. Please provide the dimensions of your MechMate for the record. |
Congratulations Marko on getting number 107 ! Great build
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Thank you John
Outer dimension are 2800x2100 mm. will measure dutting are today, coz i had some modifications. Thank you Andrew, playing with it like a little boy finding his 1st bike. |
Congrats
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Congratulations on #107, wishing good luck for you and machine.
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Thank you Pete and Paulo.
The process of getting to know each other is best described like starting a relationship with a girl you liked for a long time. Cant get enough, and day is too short. |
Been working some toys for kids.
Vacuum table would be a major improvement. I had some close encounters with machine stumping to a piece of chips and all shit brakes loose. End bits are stronger than I imagined. Live and learn :o http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f58dfee.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7eb6f9e1.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1a841ca6.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psb0a0cde1.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps934ba904.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24a9e4de.jpg |
Looks like fun.
How are you clamping down the work? Everyone clamps differently and planning out the release of corners, angles and scrap can be a pain but worth learning. You can leave a skim level of material between the stock and part and remove it later with a hand tool of your choice. Vacuum is great for some parts but few can design a vacuum layout that is assignable to accommodate every combination of parts you want to cut at an affordable level. A vacuum box is one solution if the parts are small. I have thought about those but I opted to layout a clamp down layout using the spoilboard with T nuts install in it. You probably know most of this but here is some useful information. Here is some useful information http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCMillFeedsSpeeds.htm Another http://cucfablab.org/sites/cucfablab...ting_guide.pdf |
Marko, I like those games! The first game should be good for adults too, if the magnet sticks are a bit weak and it is played at an angle :D
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Gerald, I am sure you remember the two sided ones that had multiple holes to switch sides to get to the end of the game. You don't see them much anymore here the US. It is nice to see someone making them still.
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Pete, I had never seen something similar before!
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Hi Gerald and Pete,
These toys are for kids to help them learn writing moves, and coordination eye and hand. It has been designed to help kids with disabilities in development, and general for development of the young ones. Still looking to paint them properly, thinking of airbrush. About vacuum table, not sure how will I do it, but will have to do something about it. New end bits and some better planning, but now im thinking about cyclone and will that help out. Thanks for link, very helpfull :) |
Quote:
you don't need to paint :-) http://www.valchromatsa.com/ |
Thanks Sergio,
I had no idea that this type of wood exist. Al thou I dont belive I can find it in Croatia, because here I cant find even springs for my MM. Not sure if that wood is painted inside? When cut . That would be a blast. I have been doing some carbon fiber cutting, and here are the results. Diamond end bit way lowest quality ever, but with additional sanding I got decent results. Some pictures: http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps601b3741.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68cbedaa.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps050d6496.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps587466d0.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cc92482.jpg |
http://www.valchromat.pt/distribuidores.aspx?menuid=88
:-) and yes, it's "paitend inside" that's the good thing, no need to paint. |
Long time no see.
MM is not being in use lately, but in a week or two will go full throttle. Here some pics of working aluminium. 4 flute 2.5 mm end bit. I think I need a better chip rate. Will have to work out the spindle rpm's to the feed rate. Next one will be 1 flute aluminium, maybe it will help out. http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd442b82.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psf5f9dc7c.jpg |
yes look like you are using a steel bit and your rpm and speed are to fast .. so the aliminum is like melting.
plus is allways a good idea to use some lubrication not because the heat just to avoid aluminum sticks to the bit. is just my small experience.. there are many users that use succefully the machine on aluminum |
Aluminum will gum if it does not have a lubricant. On a mill WD-40 does wonders for producing a clean shiny surface after a pass and keeps the chips from sticking to the end mill. But we are only spinning at 800 to 1000 rpm.
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Thank you guyz,
I was spinning around 12000 rpm's , and 4 flute is 2 much and 2 shallow. Will try with one flute. Not sure about my spindle, will it not hurt him for using it on 6000 rpm? Max power is 1.5 Kwh, but the china guy told me not to run it at low RPMs. Not sure what is the load on the spindle while cutting aluminium at 3 mm sec. Will try to use WD40 next time. My concern while cutting this part, was the strip marks on the bends strip. Was that decent or it could go way better? |
The bottom of pockets will always have that mown grass look.
It is an artifact of the direction of the rotation of the square cutter tips being in opposite directions along its centerline for each single pass. Expensive mills produce exactly the same markings. It is possible to further polish out imperfections with a felt bob and cutting paste, to flap disk sand etc for a different finished look. You should see the pattern but not feel the pattern. Ross |
The edges indicate that feed and speed is indeed not right, swarf sticking to work and tool (probably). You should be able to get a 'clean' edge finish off the table with a good chip load. For sure use some sort of readily available lubrication, wd40, lamp-oil (paraffin) works, etc etc. Watch some videos on youtube to get an idea....For try outs just brush the lubricant on, later maybe build a nice mister like Ross did. Use 2 flute or single flute.
Ps. i don't know your background; What a lot of 'newcomers' don't know is that you have different qualities/alloys of aluminum, and they are all called aluminum with different strengths, but more importantly.... that also cut very different, some are stronger and very difficult to cut on a router table with high RPM spindles. |
Almost every day I am cutting aluminium 2mm thickness. In first I experimented with a lot of kind of bits, and the best is one flute, shown on picture below
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...ci/15007_2.jpg This bit provides best chip, and good cutting edge, without cooling. It is hard to find bit with this shape. I bought it from local dealer, ant bought all he had. Recently I found site of German manufacturer, that have this type of bits. Try to find if they are available in your country. I forget, rpm 9000, feed rate 1.2 m/min, plunge rate 1.2 m/min spiral I'll record when i cut alu next time. |
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If in USA - this is where I purchase my bits for everything. They have the single flute too.
http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/HartlauerBitsList.pdf |
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Most people think that all aluminums are similar. They are not. There are huge differences. |
I tried 2 kinds of aluminium. first Al99.5, which is softer, and it is harder to cut him (must be lower rpm and feed rate). Second one is better ALMg3 (approximately rpm 9000, feed rate 1.2 m/min, plunge rate 1.2 m/min spiral)
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Well, to say I am amazed for this kind of help, would be an understatement.
Thanks a lot for this. The alulminium I was cutting was lying around the workshop before the MM came alive, so there is no way for me to figure out what type of aluminium type is it. If you can record that video of cutting aluminium, that would be a blast. I have some different types of aluminium, and will test it tommorow. 20 mm per sec is great speed for aluminium. Hope I can come near that soon. |
I forgot, pass depth 0,5 mm.
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Aluminium is not only available in different grades, but each grade is available in different "tempers", due to heat treatment or "work-hardening". The tempers also have an influence on machining.
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Any volunteers to summarise this article for us? :)
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McMaster has a quick reference here.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3626/ Where I work we primarily use only 6061 |
After some reading and some trial and error i got this
12000 RPMs, feed rate 10 sec/s stepdown 1 mm. Little or no lubricant. Trying to get some tutorials on high speed maching in mastercam. Better? http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ec29c33.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a7a2726.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75d542ab.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps27075304.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps32ae82b4.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30373bca.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbbff856.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f73ed61.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psab306f0f.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbc695f6.jpg |
I think High Speed Machining is tough even on some VMC's or machining centers and would be too much stress and tool breakage on a Mechmate.
For that kind of machining you need lots of rigidity and power. |
I have uploaded video.
http://youtu.be/nbytoYSw76k http://youtu.be/T8cZtZ20X-Q Here are some pic of work: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...845_resize.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...856_resize.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...547_resize.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...243_resize.jpg When the bit is not sharp, cutting edge looks like this: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h3...954_resize.jpg[/URL] |
Thanks Marco for very cool videos.
I wonder if anybody has a dfx of spindle mount to share. I cant connect to my computer where I have it, and could use spare time to cut it. I couldnt find any plans on the forum. Here is what I have been doing for these last few weeks. http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps895735d4.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psfdad4442.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...psca3b2441.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps766594c8.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5df89f93.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps19f196d5.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f15bfc0.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47e630b2.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps504c1ba8.jpg http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ps43d00c54.jpg |
Nice Work....
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Everyone mounts their spindle a little differently. Thin back plate, thick back plate, steel design, aluminum, etc... If it is a 2.2kW then it is I believe an 80mm. Most use a clamp mount. Mine used the standard 2 dowel pins but 2 holding bolts and is all 25.4mm Aluminum. Five piece, all bolt together.
You have been busy I see. Good Work! |
Thanks guys.
I have been working, and soon I hope to get more and more work, but.. I have a problem. 2 times I have been cutting aluminium, and machine went full stop. The problem is like this. In the middle of cutting aluminium, machine suddenly stops at place, and wont move. I am looking at mach 3 and I can see that coordinates are moving. When I press escape, Mach stops, but i need to press 2 times reset button to gain control over machine. It happened 2 times, and both times on aluminium. Not sure what is happening, suspecting for the computer to be faulty. Or the parallel cable is faulty. I have been cutting longer times and had no problems like that, some other yes, but not like that. Anybody had similar problems? Can it be something with current in the machine? Marko |
Does the same exact cut file stop when your cutting a non-conductive material? Like wood or MDF?
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Nope,
Only on aluminium. I tried wood and all other stuff, and only stopped on aluminium. But it does not stop every time. |
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