Clayton, either the original spring retainer or my alternative design, it’s a static part that serve only to hold one end of a spring.
I design it only to explore another alternative design that may pleases others eye or taste, cause as far as what it is suppose to do, both do what it is suppose to do. It doesn’t belong to me to recommend this one over the original.
Hope this helps clearing this. Amicalement, Robert ;)

This message came to me via a PM.
I prefer answering it here as this can be shared with other on what I consider as a not so personal !

G'day Robert,
I'm just starting out on my MechMate journey (twin builds with a mate) and one of the big things is geared vs belt. At this stage I'm thinking belt drive. It should be a little cheaper and I should get good results with it. I'm mainly going to cut ply and MDF with occational Aluminium.

I want to use the G540 but I may have to go with the G203V's to get them to work with the cheaper motors.

How do you find your belt reductions? Have you tried or seen the geared cuts? How do you think they compare?

I was wondering if you did your modeling of the belt reduction in SolidWorks? If so would it be possible to get a copy of the files. I would like to make up a set for my MM.

Thanks,
Colin.

Hi Colin,
Hopping this is not offensive for you !
First of, best of “fun” with your mate & your "twin builds" !
Anytime you go belt reduction, it’s synonym with better resolution and less backlash.

As for my case, I’m not yet at the belt reduction stage as I still need to “iron-out” what I’m already with. At this stage, I’m running direct drive w/20T pinions.
Intend to cut my own aluminum plates for this trany making ( belt drive assy).
My plans are not on SolidWorks, but I can share what I have in IGUS and / or others I can’t remember at this time witch, but will make sure I’ll give you some which SolisWorks has no trouble to open!
I’m out of town for now, but when I get back & time permits, I’ll post my drawing for you & other that may be interested.
Hop this can help ?

Amicalement, Robert ;)

help
 

thanks for the Beast, is a phenomenal job, I think would indicate that future accurate measurements used to it, I'm trying to start the construction of one, and lower levels of the Bureau of Gerald, I would like to have their own to compare and see materials which make it possible for me in my city, thank you and a successful future for you and well being of your family receive. excuse my English.:rolleyes:

Dear Alex,
I’ve return a replied from your PM, but here again, I thank you for your kind words but also must admit I’m not quite certain what you’re asking as I have difficulties to read & understand your text :confused:......;)

Time for some update news !
 

Hi guys !
Yesterday had my first true « panel » job for the new beast !
All in MDF….just hate this stuff…..
Although this was a great experience and superb learning ground for me….
Lot of little fixes and “learning on Mach’’ happened !
But all & all, I can see a little more “yey level” with some of you about this panel processing with our beast !

Few mistakes and QUESTIONS I’m looking for answers & fixes !!
A – from this pic,

Attachment 9834

you can see a nice gouge in the panel !!...this happened after I tried to restart a routine from a specific line ( Start from here button on Mach3 screen).
All went fine, but the “stupid” routine start from here, lowers the Z-axis to 0.000 instead of leaving the posted G-code retract & clearance hight !?!?!
Anyone knows how to fix this BUG !!!

B – still without a trany, working with a direct drive motor & 20T pinion, my resolution looks…well OK !!
BUT…. The “tolerance of some measurements are….well, not certain if this is acceptable…

Attachment 9833

This photo shows a pieces that should be 2.0inch….a diff of not a lot, only 0.010’’….Question is, why and can this tolerance expect to be “tighter” with a trany !?!

All & all as a 1st cutting job, it was a good thing on MDF as it is going to be opaque painted, so gouge & nicks will never show AND I’ve learned A LOT !!

Great !!
Thanks for any response on my questions….Later !
Amicalement, Robert

ps... GOT this message while uploading my pics :
P6150013_rs.jpg:
The Dimension limits for this filetype are 650 x 600. We were unable to resize your file so you will need to do so manually and upload it again. Your file is currently 469 x 625. -> ??? any cense to this !!??
Attachment 9835

Robert, on the picture problem, the second dimension of your picture is 25 pixels larger than the forum limit. Both dimensions have to be within spec for it to upload. :)

Robert, you're going to need to do a little troubleshooting to work out why that piece is 0.010" too small. Here's some possibilities for you:

1) The multipliers in your software are off by a little. If a 4.0 inch piece is off by 0.020" and an 8.0 inch piece if off by 0.04", etc then you need to tweak these numbers.

2) The bit is chattering/wandering a little bit. Your cut quality looks good, so this seems less likely, but it could be caused by the bit itself, or the router/spindle, or some other aspect of the mechanicals that is just a little loose.

Before changing anything in Mach, try cutting that piece by going in two different directions, go clockwise and anti-clockwise around it. Then compare the dimensions. Normally the clockwise is a bit bigger than anti-clockwise. This is because the cutter pulls to the left side as you push it away from you (you know this from hand-routing) and every little bit of mechanical stiffness and backlash is tested by the sideways force.

Regarding the gouge, just accept that it is normal! (and correct):
If you tell the cutter to go to the bottom of a hole, it will go straight there, taking the shortest path possible. It does not have the brains to go horizontally to the top of the hole and then vertically down. So, before you say "start from here", go back one or two more steps to be sure that the next step is still on top of the wood and not down in a hole or valley.

Thank you all your replys.
Gerald,
So, before you say "start from here", go back one or two more steps to be sure that the next step is still on top of the wood and not down in a hole or valley.
What I was assuming to be, but again, I just hate to assume.... as maybe they could have been some written routine somewhere, somehow…to avoid this…!!
I can’t tell ( so I should shush…but) where, but I have a hunch I’v read some time ago on one of these other forum ( Machsupport forum or Mach3 on Yahoo… ) someone complaining about this and another user found a solution for it. What solution, can’t remember, but some sort of written vb or some sort go-around this issue is out there !!
For now, I found the hard way what you are suggesting.
Sometime it came handy to use the reverse run, with the Z axis & router off to find the proper line with this Z-up !

Clockwise Anti-clockwise…..have totally forgot about this, thanks, will defiantly try and record the variable !

Heath….. I can only add….Dooooo !! I should know much better ! :o

Amicalement, Robert ;)

Hi Robert,
I had some similar discrepancies and found that setting the steps per unit can be done from the settings screen "AXIS CALIBRATION". I tried doing this with a dial indicator that has 1" of travel. This did not work well. The error margin for setting using a small sample for a movement on the x axis 0 to 121" had the actual travel 5/8" too long (121.625"). I found that using a spot laser fastened to the spindle and a tape measure for the axis length and telling the axis to travel 121" and entering the reading where the spot laser stopped on the tape measure I got a very exact distance. It occurred to me that Mach3 sets a rate of travel and the larger distance of sampling the more accurate the steps per unit become. I have checked a few smaller parts an they are around .002 to .004" out. This is probably due to the lost motion in the PK296's gear box.
I hope this helps you out.
Buzz #60

I agree with Buzz. Using the Mach3 Calibration on a longer distance worked for me.

Something I have noticed as well. If you setup your piece in your CAM program to be 100mm x 100mm, you generate the g-code and when Mach executes it, I noticed that X goes to 99.899 for example....not to the full 100 as it should be. Any idea on this ?

Hi Robert,

I haven´t been on the forum in a regular bases lately due to my my real life job, but I´ve read your post and wanted also to send you my greetings and of course congrats for the finishing of your MM. I´m really happy to see you have managed to come to this stage.You did a great job. I love the looks of your table and especially of the control box. I wish you lots of fun with it cutting through al kind of materials. I´ll be back soon with some updates on my work when I find some time to post. Greetings to all MM`ers.

Robert
Nice work, congratulations!
How connected stepper motors indexer to PMDX122 board.
Connection to pin14, pin16, pin17.

Hi guys
Thanks again for these nice concern & replies on this 0.010” quest!
I’ll defiantly need to conduct various test. All your suggestions are to take in account and l’m looking forward testing them & reply my findings on those….once I’ll be over the next few weeks of “crunch time” as I’m running way behind promises schedule deliveries :o

TO STEPHANE : I have not finalize & install my indexer as of yet….
The Geckodrive for this is connected but not in operation yet, to 14, 16 & com on the GRD of J8

Later, Robert ;)

Robert,

Maybe I missed some thing. I use Run From Here all the time in Mach. I usually have moved the router to another place to look at the work. So the bit is not touching the table but higher. I pick the line I want and click on Run From Here and hit start. The router is moved to the location of the line. It then wants me to click on start again but this works. I have not had any problems. I don't think there is a software problem.

Try it.

Robert,
Was just wondering where the logos are? You are cutting, a serial number should be a piece of cake! :) Sorry for the poke. :)

I don’t mind being poke.....It’s all OK w/me
Been cutting since mid spring, but still learning :D
Proud member & supporter..... but one of those who is in no rush for a “number”.
Waiting to move there BEAST to its new location....maybe next mid-spring if renovations are on schedule…..and like many remodeling / construction….. delays are to be expected ?!?
I know a thing or two about delays.... this beast was originally thought to be completed back in spring 2008

Talking about poking…. How about you buddy…. When are we going to see you starting one :p

Amicalement ;)

Its coming Robert! :) Almost finished building the garage the MM will be in, though work this year has slowed my starting. 70 to 80 hour weeks just do not leave much time for extra projects. :(

Fun nesting parts !
 

Hi all....
Some latest work done by the beast

Attachment 10521

Attachment 10522

Attachment 10523

Thanks to this nesting game, shop is more than ever in need to move to my new location....

----------------

In reference to my quest for cutting cross grain Baltic birch ply, here are some pics comparing as per trying Mike #27 suggestion (a ccw re-machining )

( look at the left panel)

Attachment 10524

Attachment 10525

Left one is re-machined......no "fuzz" :D

Attachment 10526

Here a look at the flip side of the cuts ! ( upper left one is the only one re-machining )!


Enjoy a nice day !

He Bob looking great ,so nice to see .Any problem flattening the valley and keeping it flat ?It sure is a great idea.What are you using for holding your wood? a pin nailler what feed speed cutter you use. Are you happy with the precision you got ,or you still trying to improve it some more. Got a new dust collector specialy for the beast? Bob what cad cam you use
Time to move , to your bigger place soon . What number are you waiting for again?:)

Norm.....
Have u been « ingurgitating » pure caffeine :eek:
Cool down buddy :rolleyes:
• Holding the sheet goods as per your recommendations..... pin nailler & clamps....for now.
• Once moved to its final shop / production space, a vacuum system should be in place !
• Precision as a “direct drive” can be ....it’s ok....as per what a direct drive resolution can give.
Have all the parts sitting in a box for the past few mo now, kinda waiting for me to simply machine the alu trany plates and VOILÀ :) a better cut resolution will be in place !

Had some serious delay & legal matter to take care of for the “new location to be ” :mad: But just got all solve this very last Friday…..hiouffff :D
As for a number…. Not after any particular one….this is secondary for me!
Gerald knows my view on this and knows how I respect his contribution to all this.

Amicalement, Robert ;)

Nice job on the baltic birch ply! how do you remove the tabs? by hand?


Pablo

Aloa Amigo !!
With a wood chisel on the mdf table.... works great !

Super,félicitation
 

Bonjour Robert,

je vois que ça y est :), félicitaçion!

Congratulation for your new MM. From want I can see here, there is a lot of work in this. I hope for you there is a lot more work (paying) ahead.

A+
Yves

Thanks mate ! ;)
I did reply to your pm .....later

My personal best wishes to all Mechmaters and your love ones for this wonderful holiday season and may 2011 be a WONDERFULL year to all !
Peace ;)

Hello Robert,
I am doing some test cuts in birch plywood 10mm, and spiral bit leaves so called "fuzz" are you recommending straight bit?
I read the other thread but its unclear to me which machining steps did you use.
do you cut ccw all in steps and then one full cw pass?

Thanks for help.

Same to you Bob , and everyone . I hope for you a good year and that every thing get fix at your shop so you can start having all the time for your MM business.



ps . c'tait ben ma boit de control ,un transzorb a 2piastre. stait reparé lendemin

Bonjour Danilo :)
My best results cuts with birch Ply are with a compression router bit.
Say your cutting a 6mm multi ply ( birch multi-ply that is), well I use a 6mm compression bit like this one ( see pdf link ) and even with 8mm, 10mm thick birch ply.
If you’re looking for a faster cut in thicker ply mat, say a 10, 12, 15mm or more, then you could consider stepping up to a bigger router bit like a 10 or 12mm bit.
I still prefer most of my cutting w/the 6mm ( Onsrud #60-152) as it allows smaller finish radius.

Any of those bits are design for a single pass cutting. But best finish is obtained with a 1st pass climb cut (CW) as a roughing pass and a finish pass ( remachining) of say +/- 0.5 to 1mm conventional (CCW).
With my set up, best I came up with in this last pass is set up at a slower cutting rate, say feed rate reduced by +/- 50%.

Note : It was explain to me by those bit manufacturer, the difference between a compression “mortise” bit vs a regular compression bit is in the upcut length portion.
( from that same pdf link, look at the 60-100M series )!
A “mortise” bit has longer bottom cut, meaning the position where the up cut meets the downcut is higher in term of cutting depth. A data to take in account when selecting bit vs material thickness vs bit diam !!

Hope this can help clear some of your questions, let me know if I can help you more !
Amicalement, Robert ;)

Norm!!
Thanks for those kind words ;)
Pi, bin comptemps d’ouair qu’ctait inqu’ta bouaite pi facile a r’mettre en ordre !!
Hey….bonne et heureuse à toi et tes proches…. Peace !!

Hi Robert, we know you are still out there - how about some recent pictures of your work? :)

Hi Gerald….
Indeed, I’ve been in the back ground and lurking every week, in not every days….
BUT, My BB is still out of service as it is still in “boxes”….. in my new place !
Should be back in service before year end if all goes well
Some Pics Then !!...OK
Best I can offer, fresh out of the “back room” from yesterday !
Attachment 13526
Later Guys, Gerald :D
Amicalement, Robert ;)

Is there any way one (i for this matter ) can go back to his own post and make spelling corrections …..due to sleep deprivation and being out of coffee :rolleyes:

You have to bribe the admin and guys that over watch the post!:D:rolleyes:

Thanks Robert, that workshop is still nice and empty! :D

(PS, you have an edit button for 30 minutes - I made some small changes for you)

Salut Robert
Getty ready for winter with all the aluminum insulation . you going to be like a hot potato in the oven . Seem to me there would be room for your MM ,but if you like we can set it up in my basement:D.
Only the drywall is missing ,soon you will be reunited again with your MM

Good Morning Gerald, guys !
G – At 4;32, i was just hitting my snooze button….and by 5-ish, I was still trying to get my 1st drop of coffee in my cup :o … ( bear in mind I’m 7hr behind Cap town, at -5 GMT)
For this editing, no major thing here, it’s just some wrong key strike in my text, nothing intuition wont solve !

Norm…I rather be “roasting” vs getting some frost bite in my new shop :cool:

Bribe hein !!!....ok Nils, mind sharing any contact you had success with :rolleyes:

New support Board search !
 

Hi guys !

Now, after moving all my beast to my new location, I’m in slow but moving, re-assembling mode ….when time permits !
One thing I’d appreciate seeing / learning is :
support board install !?
Since I’m planning to put in a new one, I have a plan / idea on how I will proceed, but….My curious mind is fishing around to see if some have came up with a better way since…..early days !
I’ve put in a search on the forum search tool, but it pulls out all “support” and then “board”…..simply too many to see some sense in this !

Thanks ;)

Robert
First off all merry christmas
My spoilbort consits two layers. One layer plywood 16 mm and a top layer mdf 12 mm
For making the holes fitting to the holes in the cross beam I made a small device to creatie the centerholes in the spoilboard so I can drill them later to the correct size. Its a bold with a 1.5 mm hole in the middel. In this hole a nail is placed. With a hamer I make the centerholes at the correct place and drill them later to the correct size.
I Will modify my c beam by drilling the holes through the under flange from the c beam so can drill the holes directly from the underside in the spoil board using a extra long drill
You can also use the old spoilboard as a drill template for the new one.
Good luck with your reassembling

Rik, first, thanks for your kind wishes.
I’ll take this occasion wishing all MM members my best wishes on this wonderful holiday season period and may 2013 be a SUPERB year for all !

Spoilbord !
Rik, I greatly appreciate your feedback and explaining your experience.
Coincidence, I was also going to give a though on drilling through those cross bearers!!!
Using the old one is out of my spectrum of possibilities as…..it’s not in a reusable size anymore….broken !!!
Some other alternatives I’m starting to give a thought, is in making a gage ‘bar’ for each x-bearers, ID-ing each hols for each individual x-beares !....but to many gages!!!
Also, maybe going with making / buying a digi probe and….digitize the complete pattern in order to…..have the beast ( or another machine) making those holes ?!?

Anyway…..as we can see, many alternative are possible, but through all these, I’m still interested in reading some OTHER one from mates !!!
Robert ;)