Hi Ken,

Thanks for your enthusiasim, but we are still a long way away from making any dust, a little bit slower than normal due to building both tables at the same time!! much quicker with just one :p

Anyway as usual here is todays progress and the obligatory photos to check out!!

We started by moving the first table outside before then scrubbing and degreasing the whole table.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2810.jpg

We then gave all the Y support channels and the 2 main X beams a hit with some rust converter which worked a treat.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2811.jpg

Then once the table was all wiped and air dried we then spray painted using a combination of a small and large gravity fed High Volume Low Pressure spray guns using a Heavy duty KillRust Primer.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2812.jpg

Photo of Paul aka Skippy here on the forums standing next to his now pride and joy :D

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0509.jpg

Thought I would throw in a couple of close up shots of the welding after being painted.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0513.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0511.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0512.jpg

I am looking to make a start hopefully tomorrow on the rail cutting, so we shall see how we go;) I think I have put this part of the build off for long enough, and its time to put it behind us!! :)

Cheers
Tony.

Hey - you forgot to clean down Paul !!

Ross

Hahaha Good on ya Ross!!!

If Skippy stood there any longer admiring his MM I was going to give him a coat of primer just to tidy him up Lol.

I managed to squeeze in a little bit more time to work on MM stuff again today, so set up for the rail cutting and made up a little jig which after trying it out, appeared to all work very well and was very easy to use!! Thanks for the idea Ross!! what was I worrying about :D

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0515.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0514.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0516.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0520.jpg

Cheers
Tony.

Looking very good Tony

The engineers square tells the story, those rails will be great.
I'm sure lots of forum users will appreciate the nice clear photos of your set up.

Regards
Ross

Hi All,

Thanks to Ross (surfcnc) for the contact I have ordered our E-Chains for both tables X & Y from http://www.alliedconnectors.com/home.html

Ordered more than we need so we will have some parts as spares.

This is what I ordered.

CPS036N.075.R70.B2T @ 2000mm x 2 Set2 X Axis.
CPS036N.055.R70.B2T @ 1500mm x 2 Set2 Y Axis.

Hopefully I should have the rail cutting done soon and can get onto welding and painting the E-Chain support brackets.

Cheers
Tony.

Rail Cutting On The Move
 

Hi All,

Still waiting on our E-Chains to arrive, they are on there way and should be here any day now.
Managed to cut our first X axis rail and all went well.
Going through a fair few cutting discs though, so I think we might need to go get some decent ones:)

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0530.jpg

Cheers Tony

Todays Progress!!

Not too hard once you get going :p It just seems to be one of them jobs you just want to keep putting off and off.

Well I eventually got my brain into gear and hit the rail cutting head on today, I managed to cut all the X & Y axis rails for both Paul (Skippy) and my tables.
I also started to grind the first of many rails for the V, finding this a little harder than I thought but I'm sure I will get there in the end. Or at least tomorrow :D

Here is todays progress.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0531.jpg

Cheers
Tony.

Tony pleased to see your rail cutting is behind you. So impressed by your get it done attitude.

Ross

Hi Tony,
Rails are looking good. We started to grind the V's then noticed a little bit of uneven on the faces appearing. We then put the skate back together with a grinding disc and ground the tops of the cuts to a full square and flat surface. Then we went back to cutting the v's and they look really nice now.

Just my 2c's worth.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the heads up, I think thats what I will be doing tomorrow before any further grinding, as I am also experiencing some un-eveness with the grinding after cutting.

Cheers
Tony.

Todays Update!!

Well I'm very glad to report that after getting the heads up from Chris regarding the rails not cutting perfectly flat which I presume is due to flex in the 1mm cutting disks, I ground the tops of the rails perfectly flat and square before then grinding the V.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2825.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2830.jpg

I also found that to get the skate to slide properly when cutting the V I used a chain lube on top of the rail which is just like a very fine lubricating oil, but the good thing is the metal filings from grinding do not stick to it and the skate slides much better rather than digging in and stopping.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2838.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0537.jpg

Paul degreased and rust converted both the Y gantry's and the Y cars before I then painted them with the Heavy duty Killrust primer.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2831.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/DSC_2847.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0538.jpg

Now that I have the cutting of the rails back under control it will be back to grinding the rest of the V rails and also cutting them to length tomorrow. Hopefully thats the end of that :D:D

Cheers
Tony.

Looking good guys, you are at the the stage in you build where Leon and I would love to be up to.

Keep up the good work.

Chris

Great work guys. Looks like you are def. breaking a sweat working on the mechmate!

Thanks Brian!!

Lets re phrase that Brian, we were breaking out in a sweat, that is until today!!
Work came to a sudden halt when our 4" Bosch angle grinder decided to stop!! no smoke either:eek: looks like the Bosch cannot go the distance with the build of two machines as I fell short on the grinding of the V rails by one set of rails for the second table.
So rails will need to wait now until we can get another grinder :mad:

Cheers
Tony.

Tony, sorry to hear your misfortune. My skil grinder (DIY grade, light-duty, younger brother of Boshe) survived throught the ordeal very well. Just be gentle, hold back when the grinder groan in distress, goes a long way. BTW, no smoke is a good sign, maybe you just blew the fuse. This happened to my abrasive disc chopper.

I tought about this, a month back I collected enough points in my gas station card and I changed points for a black&decker grinder, im confident I will be able to do everything on my previous one and this one :)

New/ replacement grinder underway, so it will be back to grinding the rails shortly:eek:
75mm and 55mm E-Chains arrived for the X and Y axis's, still need to arrange the correct end brackets but will do that when I order the Z axis E-Chains which should be in the next week or so.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0539.jpg

If any body can point me in the right direction as too what is required in the way of E-Chain for the Z it would be much appreciated in the meantime I will keep looking here on the forum.
Thanks Ross for pointing me in the direction of Alan_c's build thread will check it out.

Cheers
Tony.

Tony, I don't get your question on the E-chain for Z axis... BTW I did nothing to it...

I would save the point for other useful stuff.

As long as you don't bulldoze down the angle with the grinder in a big hurry, ANY working grinder (that fits your grinding skate) will survive the ordeal ;)

Ken,

Let me firstly say, I am quite capable of using and knowing the limits of power tools as I have worked with them my whole life, however and for whatever reason the Bosch just did not make the trip, I must say though that the cutting then grinding flat and then grinding the V on not one set of rails but two, over some very long days would tend to take its toll on any light use power tool.

Quote "ANY working grinder (that fits your grinding skate) will survive the ordeal" thats a big statement Ken when so many others have lost grinders during their build of a MM.

Ken, Not so much a question regarding the Z but more any usefull info like E-Chain size, length, assembly photos or any other info that may help the design and or construction of ours would be appreciated :)

Cheers
Tony.

Hi Tony,
I use a short length of flexible washing machine discharge hose because they are sitting infront of me... rather then a cable chain for the Z-slide, IMHO, I'm only carrying a 4-core shielded spindle power cable & the 2x 6mm water tube for the spindle is stiff enough to be left dangling in the air without any harm., cable chain is over-kill for my purpose, I don't like to expend more then required if I can help it, its a hard habbit to break... your choice may very.

About the grinder, I'm serious with the statement. When I was running a 30 man strong steel fabrication workshop (yes, I ran the shop but unfortunately, I'm not among the workforce & I don't like to sit in the office for too long & leave everything to the supervisors...), we use ANY grinder for ALL kind of works & as long as we allow the grinder to cool down & work within their limits, they can last longer then they are worth. Maybe steel in our part of the world is softer then others ;)

I dont think its got anything to do with the steel Ken!! and definately nothing to do with how the grinder was used, let me assure you of that!! I think its got more to do with they do not make things like they used too!! My old 4"Hitachi grinder I have had for twenty odd years and over those years it has had some very serious heavy use in those twenty odd years and is still going strong, it is built better and works harder than all the new plastic stuff we have on offer nowadays.

Cheers
Tony.

I think it has everything to do with duty cycle and cooling. Our rail cutting and grinding operations can be close to continuous duty for tools that are designed for short bursts of use (at least in the modern designs). There is a trade-off between how many cooling breaks you are willing to take (time) and how hot your grinder gets (tool life). I used frozen gel packs to speed the cooling time of my grinders, but in the end, the disposable $20 HF grinder was ... disposed. The better built Milwaukee survived, even though it was run hot. If I'd run the grinders at what I consider appropriate duty cycles to save the tool, it would have taken me three times as long to complete the job, so I was willing to take the risk and burn out the cheap grinder.

This is IMHO a misnomer. In fact, with modern manufacturing technology, everything are built better then they were used to. Hence no more over enginering which does contribute to expending uncessary resource strain on the environment plus unnecessary expenses for the consumers. eg, look at cars today in general, aren't they come with better fuel economy, safety, more powerful (pound to pound) & reliability? I don't think the old Ford T-Model will ever make to the road with today's stringent statutary requirements.

I can only say michines built in the "old" era was over engineered because the people that created & using them did not have all the understanding of the equipment then... so they over-built them for that "just-in-case" scenario ...

& look as us human, we generally live longer & also more knowledgeable. who can deny that?


Exactly.

I would still have an older car over any new car any day built to last they were!! :)
Lets just get on with the MM build.

Cheers
Tony.

I would still have an older car over any new car any day built to last they were!!

Agreed.. but i still lub my xr6T ^^

This gave me an idea, instead of making one grinder suffer, I can use both at 50% duty cycle and both will be cooler all the time.

Really guys - focus and leave the whole grinder thing ALONE.

Ross

Want that be very painfull changing them in the skate each time???

Cheers
Tony.

Come on Guys new grinder has been purchase and I have it (Been in the boot of my car for last coupe of days) and will be handed over to Tony tomorrow and the other one will be take back to shop for warranty replacement / credit. :D Now can we please leave this topic alone and move on with the Mechmate build.

Regards
Paul

Paul, Tony,
IMHO, the well being of the grinder is important to the build. Especially if one wish to have an uninterupted progress. Unless you enjoy going through the warranty claim chore... ;) I highlight this in all good intention.
Anyway, I'll keep mum on this topic here from here on.

Pablo,
Using 2 set of grinder & skates is a good strategy, if you are in a hurry. but you must be careful with the height & angle setting of the skates. Eventually, taking a laid back attitude toward the grinding process worked best for me, yours may vary.

Todays Update,

With the new grinder in hand, all the rail grinding for both tables was completed today:) And I might add!! I am so glad that job is now out of the way!!

My tips for rail cutting and grinding would be as follows.

1. Use the 1mm thick cutting disks and have plenty of them!!

2. After cutting the rails to height I would suggest using a grinding disk and grind the top of the rail flat as the 1mm cutting disks leave the rail with some small humps and bumps due to disk flex which need to be removed prior to grinding the V to maintain eveness in the V.

3. When you start the grinding I found that using a very light chain oil lubricant allowed the head of the adjuster bolts to slide free on the top of the rail without digging in too much.

4. Grind very very small amounts at any given time and practice on a smaller piece before starting on the rails required for your MM, Once you have the feel for it start on your rails.

5. If you have the time design a better skate or use the one that has the bearings incorporated as I think that will provide for much easier use and a better qaulity finish.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0545.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0544.jpg

we also got one complete set of X & Y rails all degreased, wire brushed and rust converted and primed.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0547.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0546.jpg

We also cut and prepared all the E-Chain laser cut brackets and used the offcuts from the rails for the E-Chain rail which is attached to the brackets, so hopefully next working day we should have all the rails cleaned and primed as well as the E-Chain brackets :D

Cheers
Tony.

Update!!

Both tables and both sets of rails are all now in primer and ready to get rolling!!
Just need to find someone local for the purchase of shim washers for both the rails and for the adjusting of the V wheels on both the gantry and the car.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0550.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0551.jpg

Cheers
Tony.

Hi Guys.
Looking good. I got our shim washers from the local autoparts store and I also used the shims from my scribing blade on the panel saw so you might want to try your local saw sharpening shop as well.

Cheers Chris

It will be a pain to use washers for shimming the rails, because you have to pull the screw right out before you can change washers. We use rectangular strips, about 40x10mm, packed either side of the screw. Cut them from drinks cans and any other old scrap.

All we need is a piece of dimensionally stable thin gauge sheet stock for the shim. steel, bronze, aluminium, plastics, FRP.... or even titanium, gold or silver :)

I took Gerald's advise & went with using soda cans as shims. I find the Coke cans has the most consistent 0.1mm thickness, other cans do varies in thickness a little.

Gerald also advised on biscuit tins for thicker shims but I can't find enough of them & hence normal washers instead.

I punch out shim washers, it does add more preparation & installation chore but once in place I don't have to worry about the shim moving around before tightening the screw.

Oh yes, it is a PITA pulling out the screw every time for add/reduce shims. Anyway, I did spend more time then necessary in cross checking this part of the build then other parts of my build.

BUT there are many who prefer to buy ready shims, it's a personal choice.

One good advantage of can shims is you will have unlimited supply of locally produced shims if you keep your drinking habit :)

Thanks guys,

I found these guys, so all should be good :D. http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...&cm_vc=prev_au
These shims should be ideal for the rails, and they have proper shimming washers which should take care of the shimming for the V wheels. Failing that Paul and I have a stash of aluminium cans of Rum & Coke which should make for some good shims, we just need to drink all the rum ;)

Cheers
Tony.

Is it a case of Rum or is it case of shims
 

Here is the backup plan for the shims we hope not, but we will enjoy then after a day of build the MechMates

Regards

Paul

It is easier to do the shimming before the racks are fitted. And remember that if parts of shims are left sticking out, they could foul the rack. (We trim away protruding shim with a strong knife)

Rollin!! Rollin!! Rollin!! Raw Hide!!
 

Decided to do a little bit in the garage tonight and now have both gantrys and cars rolling.

Table # 1

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0668.jpg

Table # 2

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...k/IMG_0670.jpg

Also picked up our additional E-Chain brackets we required for both tables whilst I was in Melbourne the other day. so should be setting up the E-Chain support brackets, E-Chains and very soon the Z axis :D