Patient need their dentist happy too :D

I could not resist to complement your dance floor lighting. I want one! :D

Me too, need those lights ... :)

Managed to get everything going.

1. Setup Start \ Stop pushbuttons in Config > Ports & Pins |tab: Input Signals
as OEM Triggers like this. They work well now.
Attachment 8155

2. Setup Proxies in Inputs Tab like this. They work like this but I would like to know if I should also tick x++, x--, y++... a.s.o?
I can zero Machine cords and Work offsets now. Table is doing the dance.
Attachment 8156
After referencing to zero Diagnose is ok.
Attachment 8161

3. The Table Display looks like this now. Every workpiece made in VCarve or Aspire has to be setup with its xy0 origin like this. Then it is turned around to fit on the table in Mach. (I guess I`m sitting on the wrong side of the table and thats why it seem strange to me seeing my workpiece the otherway around...whatever)
Attachment 8157Attachment 8158

4. Spindle Setup
Spindle starts automatically with every job and stops when it`s done. I do not have to use M3 or M5 in the GCode. I`m not able to change speed though. Manual starting and stopping is also working from Mach3 via F5.
Attachment 8159Attachment 8160

5. Used also Keygrabber and setup Logitech FumblePad.
I can now also use it to Start / Stop. Spindle start / stop. and of course moving all directions.

TouchProbe will be my next victim....:)

Greetings
Attachment 8162

I think you should get the origin (0,0) position of Aspire, the Mach screen and your table to be in a place that is comfortable for you. All 3 of those can be adjusted/set to suit your comfort - don't make compromises there.

I agree with Gerald. It makes it so much easier to have the orientation correct when you setting up jobs to be cut.

Orientation done.

Now my question to some cuttings. Lets talk about yhe windowsills above.
In Aspire you have the option to set tabs in your jobs. In the same tab you also have the option to pick " exact cut ". Even with tis choice ticked, when I go on a speed like 3600mm/min I get rounded edges. How can I stop this.
Lets say its not a sharp corner but a filleted one, even then it`s cutting the roundings far before getting to the real shape.
Is the only solution slowing down the machine? I now have set accelelration to 75%.
Thanks

Claus,

If your design has a square corner but when you cut the corner it is round, you have to play with CV or Exact Stop. In General Logic Configuration in Mach which one do you have picked. It sounds as though you have CV. If you have CV, you have to work with the options under CV control.

If it is CV, you have told the software that you want to maintain a constant velocity do mater what the design you are cutting. That is why you have to work with CV control. If it is Exact Stop, it will stop before it changes direction like on a sharp corner. Your speed can also affect the cut.

Create a 90 degree corner. Cut it with CV at 3600 mm/min and then change the seeing to Exact Stop and cut the corner and see what your results are.

I have read in other posts to use CV mode, and that it will be better for cutting quality. Others have reported that using Exact Stop would result in a sturdy and bumby behaviour of the machine. I´m going to try out and let you know. Thanks a lot

Nils, I did change the settings to exact stop and the machine is working fine. I almost stops at each change of angle but the cuts are precise and what is more important I do not get so many miscuts as in CV mode, especially when raising cutting speed from Mach (Override). Well I`m still learning...:)

During cutting today I was wondering what was building up behind that suction tube... fine dust build up due to electrostatic charge. It`s intresting that even with proper grounding it is still charged and sticking to the tube?!!!
Attachment 8216

This is the nested layout of the cuttings I did. First I used profiling and then drilling in one toolpath. Speed set to 3800mm/min with a 6mm end mill.
Attachment 8218
First check of prototype if everything fits right. I guess after its glued and sanded tabs will also disappear.
Attachment 8217

Funny to see new titles coming up.
Greetings to all

Hey, you don't help me with a better title! :)

I`m working on it. Loved to have 48 hours a day to play more with MM besides doing real life job...:)

Ah are those the long horn speakers??

Claus,

Ok, what are you making? Glad I was able to help you.

Quoting- Ah are those the long horn speakers??

I thought the same thing! Laminating some large speakers looks like to me. Claudiu, I think you have all of us curious. :)

Back-load horn? This is one of my other hobby.

Yes you are all right. It is a backloaded Horn with a Fostex FE 168 E Sigma Speaker. The plans from which this enclosure was deviated you can find here. The one I`m working on has 135,5 height and is using this fostex mentioned above. What you see in pics is only one half of the whole assembly. I used 3 sheets of MDF for 1 Speaker !!! The amp for this one is a push pull tube amplifier which I have modified with fine caps and silverwire...

Claus

Those are nice speakers. I will have to show my friend. He uses tube amplifier also.

Ahhh Horns, I love horns. Great to see some more speaker builders here! :)

May be we should have a seperate forum for MM speaker builders ;)
I would love to create some new loudspeakers awell...

I have build electrostatic loudspeakers in the past, and did re-build my Lyric (unknown brand from a small builder in Hilversum) speaker when I moved to Ecuador.

I am thinking of building new electrostatics again....

Ries

Hi Ries
Hilversum... I lived in Eerste Nieuwstraat for 5 years. Nice town

I second Ries's suggestion.

Was planning to build a fullrange ELS until I bump into this forum...

Hi guys,
did some new stuff I wanted to share with you.
I used for the first time MM for aluminium cutting. Needed some special parts for a etiquette applying machine in wine industry. I had only some scrap alu lying around so I cant tell what grade it was. I used a 6 mm solid carb end mill with 20 mm/sec and 0,8 mm pass and 20% stepover.Toolpath was some pocketint and profiling in Aspire.Lubricant used WD40.

Attachment 8312Attachment 8313

Attachment 8314Attachment 8315

Second project was a roomdivider made of 10mm mdf.
First profile cutting done with 4mm endmill.

Attachment 8316

I used a 12 mm V Bit with a profiling toolpath, cutting depth on line 3,5mm.

Attachment 8317

This the cut quality obtained going exact Stop modus in Mach3. True it`s lot slower but worth.

Attachment 8323
Attachment 8322

and some more of it....some 10 hours later...

Attachment 8321
Attachment 8326

and then of course the other side, too...

Attachment 8325

And finally after some 30 machine hours, I used some Linseed oil for finishing the divider. Dimensions 190 x 90 cm.

Attachment 8324

After such a job I realise even much more what a wonderful piece of Art the MechMate is...Thank you Gerald for making this possible.:)

Very very nice Claus. Just glad you did not have a power cut in the middle of it.

power loss is a big problem in Florida. I had quite an investment in ups equipment. have not had this experiance here... yet :o Hope I didn't burn the cornbread.

Claus, those look awesome! my wife likes them too!

Claus, Nice work! Now my wife wants on now....lol

My wife and kids are allready making me a list of things to make!

Good looking work!

Cheers,
Travis

Very, very nice work!

Looking good Claus, it appears you have your machine dialed in perfectly.

AWESOME!

got to complete mine ASAP....

Claus, in #169 you were having a little static charge issue on the outside of your dust collector boot on your MM. I was wondering if painting that section with aluminum paint (or other conductive paint) and grounding the paint appropriately could help dissipate the static issue.

Well Done. It looks awesome. :)

did you place tabs in between - and after removing the inner material _ ai am assuming you have run a cleaning pass, thats how I do it, unless you have a order for a 100 numbers and you can build a jig to hold the job and let the pieces drop down :)

Thank you all,

Kobus, having daily problems with electricity I learned from you that making a small hole outside your workpiece, where your zero is, can save your work, and you allways can restart from there...!

Yes Irfan I had tabs, but those were cut away with V bit, imagine sanding about 300 tabs by hand...:eek: Hope that 100 piece order drops in some day, then I will come back to you to explain exactly how to build a jig.

Have all a nice weekend.

Very impressive. The V bit to cut away the tabs was an excellent idea.

What was your feed rate?
Did you go slowly as it was your first attempt?

Jason

Very nice Claus... Can't imagine MM working 30 hours continuously yet.
Can you explain a bit how you generate the divider pattern/software (of course if its not a trade secret). I too wanted to make one for me :)

I do make a small cross somewhere outside work using a sharp engraving V bit before starting any work as you can never be sure what happens next !!

Esti foarte tare :cool:!!! Trebuie sa-ti dau tel unora din Buc care vand un grund special pt MDF. Altfel o sa te chinui f mult daca nu dai inainte cu grund. Cauta oricum pe net firma Goulda SRL. Sigur au site. Eu de la ei iau tot ce imi trebuie pt finisaj. Au marfa de super calitate calitate. Nu o gasesti in hipermarketuri. E industriala si e Italia. Cred ca am zis tot. Si ce e mai important e ca te ajuta cu sfaturi, sunt f amabili.
Bafta,
Marius

Jason, my feedrate was set to 3600 mm/min, but as I said before Mach was set to exact stop and therefore it went very slow, mostly not going over 400mm/min. Only when it had to cut a straight line speed went up to about 1500 mm/min.

Anil, the whole job took about 30 hours, divided in 13 hours of cutting out the small pieces and then another 7 hours for V encgraving each side of the panel. The machine stops were about 30min for changing tool, cleaning table, loading up GCode and pressing start button.

The easyest way to generate a pattern is to use Inkscape, and import some flower and deco patterns which you can arrange to form the first quarter of your finished pattern.It is also very helpful to use helplines in your sketch for aligning all patterns to have a nice geometry.When done simply mirror it sideways and downwards and you have your big pattern. Then you can multiply as often as needed. It is very important to use vector graphics as they are scaleable to any size. Hope that helped.

Stumbled across this link a while back on the mechmate forum, cannot remember which thread but it was saved in my browser favorites.
Scroll down the page to find the patterns.

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/

Jason, thank you for that link.
Indeed there are tons of patterns. I found the one I used in a vector pack on file sharing server together with many other vectors.
The trademark logo from craftsmanspace was also removed. intresting...

It was 'Clean' Vectors - free project plans for the woodworker

Rectifying Brass.

This is a part of a wine bottle labeling machine. The part I had to rectify is a leveling device for the glue applicator. Having an age of about 30 years it had lots of dents and hits on the surface which normally has to be smooth.

That´s the result. Thats the upper part which had to be chamfered 45°. I used a V Bit. Then with an endmill the cutting edge was straightened.
Attachment 8447
Attachment 8445

Then turned it around. Thats the underside which was worked with a 8 mm endmill.
Attachment 8444
Attachment 8446

This is my first job where all was done by manual control of the MM.