Great! You're getting close :D

It is a good feeling to see it move isn't it after all that effort

Thanks guys! It most certainly is a good feeling Alan! Especially after all that effort AND years! :)

...the sweet sound of steppers singing! Congrats Herb.

Way to go.
The next one should be easier.
But then if it was easy, anyone could do it.

Congrats, well done. You'll have dust flying in no time!

Update: The correct 12V relays arrived and have been wired to the proximity sensors with the exception of the z-axis. The 3 proxies appear to be working properly on the table. I'll hook up the input pin on the PMDX tomorrow. I also have some clean up to do on the wires in the panel as you can see.

Herb,

Sorry for bothering you again with questions...

May I know
1) the brand of DIN rail connectors you're using, is it Wago? If it is Wago, what series do you choose?
2) on the lower row of rail, what's the difference between the white ones on the left, and the grey one
3) What is the cylindrical thing (upper row, right most, next to white contactor unit)
4) The black thing on the lower row, far right.

Looks like the (thru door) main switch with shaft and a small dc power supply to me

Hi Nikonauts,

1) I'm using a variety of terminal blocks that were purchased and given to me over time. It's not as neat as a control panel full of the same product but I don't want to spend unnecessarily at this point.

2) You are seeing 4 slim relays for the proximity sensors. They are 12v relays to work with the 12v output on the power supply. The grey ones next to it are just ordinary terminal blocks with jumpers making the connections.

3) Tom is correct, it's a though door main panel disconnect. Link to the disconnects.

4) There are actually two black things if you look closely. They are both large relays for controlling things like dust collectors and vacuums rather than having to turn the switches on by walking to each piece of equipment.

...those relays look familiar!

Quick update: I just got photos from my nephew with the finished mounting bracket. Some of his nicest milling work to remove weight will unfortunately be hidden once it's mounted on the z-plate. I should be able to wrap up this weekend and hopefully with no blue poofy smoke. If it smokes, then I guess it'll be a few more weeks.

Looks very cool, but why did you need to make the spacer/mounting bracket? the matrix of mounting holes on the spindle will match up perfectly with the holes in the Z plate and tube (if you followed the drawings) I just removed those screws holding the plate to the tube, drilled holes in the back of the tube to line up with the holes in the front and fastened the spindle directly to the plate from the tube side with cap screws.

I decided to go with an interchangeable bracket. I want to be able to quickly swap out the spindle for a router if I need to. I also want to play around with a 3D print head and maybe even a laser some day. The bracket has locating pins that mate with the z-plate which will make the job of swapping it out very simple in the future.

Ah! OK that makes sense, will be cool to see it when its all done and installed.

Temporarily set up to make sure it was all going to work before I finalize the wiring. The ground wire hanging down isn't as close to the spindle as it appears. Z-motor to wire up as well as the proximity sensor and then I can finally test it all out. Inching forward!

Spindle Test

Kool. It's singing.

Finally got it wired up and working. Lots left to do though. I've only done some rough calibrating and I have to finish up the prox on the z to button up the e-stop boxes. I have to put on the spoilboard and all kinds of little things but I'm pretty happy with it though. Once logos get here, I'll slap it on and plan the party. :D:D:D

Thanks to all those that have helped me get through it!

Video to the first official cut!

Awesome.
Ain't it a great feeling?

It's kind of funny that the shortest build and probably the longest build finished on the same weekend....and it certainly is a great feeling!

It will be great to swap stories.
Is this for fun for you or do you have a purpose for it?

I used to be in the cabinet business many, many...many years ago and kept quite a few pieces of equipment. It's mainly for fun but I'll probably pick up some work, build some furniture pieces, and I'd love to experiment with sign making. Lots to learn for sure.

Well Done Herb!!

Thanks Darren! I have ALOT of catching up to do after watching the talented guys on here for so many years!

Congrats. I see a RoadRunner!

Thanks Sean! As you can tell, I only had the demo Mach3. I'm cutting a whole roadrunner now with the full version. :)

Its great seeing another MM come to life, Congrats!

Thanks Tom! Once the stickers are on I can officially join the club. :)

The stickers have arrived and it's official. :cool:

Ta Da!

Cool! congrats.

Thanks Alan and Tom! Pretty good feeling but plenty to learn and do now.

Looks like you've met the requirements for a serial number.

Well, I finally learned just enough of the CAM program to give it a go. You will see that I botched up my first attempt on the drilling operation because I was referencing the wrong surface. Luckily, only snapped an 1/8" bit rather than an expensive cutter. The g-code was setup to run off the top of the part and I referenced the temporary spoil board or the bottom of the part instead. It eventually dawned on me. In addition, I used a 5/8" piece of plywood instead of 1/2" material just to be safe. I'm sure my steps were too small and my feed speed was too slow too but hey, it ALMOST looks like I know what I'm doing. :o I'm happy enough at attempt #1.

First test run at making a dust boot.

This is when the serious stuff happens. The machine was the easy part he he:D

I've cranked up the speed on the cam program based on the chip load formula. Does the speed look right on the video? I'll put another video out here on Thursday running an 1/8 bit, 2 flutes on the profile. I exceeded my weekly limit of space for videos so I can't put the other video up yet. For this video I'm using a 1/4" carbide bit, 2 flutes @ 18,000 rpm and a chip load of .015. According to the calc, I should be running at 540ipm. It would be great if it runs this fast on plywood all the time but would like another set of eyes on it to make sure I'm not moving too fast.

Cutting magnet pockets and the slot for the nut.

A lot plays into chip load that calculators do not take into account. Deflection, micrograin, humidity, machine rigidity, a perfect world, etc. Reduce your RPM and recalculate and start at 80% of the calculation for IPM. Get your speed to a comfortable margin to work within the constraints of the machine build to not have other issues. Biggest thing is listen for chatter and after the cut is done the bit should only be warm to cool and not hot.

Thanks Pete. I'll definitely do that. Here is a video of it going full speed using the calculation. It just seems too fast for that bit. It's solid carbide, upcut, 1/8" cutting diameter, 1/4" shank, 2 flutes, 18,000 rpm, chipload 0.015 which equates to 540 ipm.

0.015 x 18000 x 2 = 540 ipm

I'll slow the rpm's down and reduce the chipload slightly and drop it down to 80% and see how it comes out.

Here is the cutting video.

Speed looks OK, you may still not have the correct acceleration settings though, it should not slow down like that when approaching a change in direction.

I'll see if I can figure out how to change that in the CAM software. Thanks for catching that!