As they are killing all our Rhino, I have to make sure we remember them in the future.

These are all test runs on pine. Once I am confident that I can do it without wasting good wood, I will do it on something nice.
Attachment 11129

Now that I looking at upgrading to a spindle....more for the noise part than raw power.... I re-looked at the 2.2kW Chinese spec's....it show's 8.5 Amp.

As the Omron VFD that I have is only 6.5 Amp, I think I will have to go for the 1.5 kW spindle.
Are the Chinese VFD's really that bad, because I see some good bundle deals, but don't want to buy one and have to change it at a later stage..and because I have a good 1.5kW VFD I feel it's a waste of money to not use it.

Doing more research I see the 1.5kW has a ER11 collet ...mmmmmm Maybe the 2.2 kW with ER20 is still the answer.? Decisions decisions....

The 6.5Amp Omron VFD will happily drive a (rated) 8.5Amp 2.2kW spindle. But it will only drive it up to 6.5Amp and you will get around 1.7kw out of the spindle. Nothing wrong with that if you already have the VFD. (Very little chance of ever burning out anything)

Thank's Gerald...as I have no knowledge of VFD's I am relying on your wisdom. Thank's for clearing it up....So back to getting the best price for a 2.2 kW spindle.

Hi Kobus,

My thoughts are that the 1.5Kw is a good unit and is nice and quite whilst running compared to the 2.2kw monster.
After all the hard work Ross has done I don't think the Chinese Vfd's are that bad especially if used with the correct Opto-Isolated Converter. The Chinese Vfd's have worked fine and consistently under fairly hard testing on Ross's MM and recently on both of ours once we got the right converter.
Long term use I cannot yet say.
The only other thing I will comment on, is that if you wish to use some larger cutting bits it sure is nice having a larger shaft on the bit rather than the 1/4" used on the 1.5kw spindles.

Cheers
Tony.

It all depends on what you are looking at, $$$ or brand...
With the price, I just have to live with lesser tech support... so far it is still spinning upon request.,
I regularly drive my chinese 2.2kw spindle to the vacinity of 8~9A range & peaks at about 11A without frying the VFD... that meant a R25 bull nose into 6mm deep cut on solid nyato wood panel @23000rpm @6500mm/min. My next spindle will be 4.5kW :D...
BTW, I operate the VFD fully manually via its control buttons... it gets the job done.

Kobus, I believe you actually could run the 2.2kW Chinese spindle with the Omron VFD - with a corresponding loss of power.

The HuanYang VFD that I experienced had no safety margins and shoddy workmanship. If you're willing to tolerate and coddle a device that creates more electrical noise than necessary, can barely cool itself, has its power electronics running at their limits, and has imperfect documentation in order to save a little money, go for it. If your time has any value at all, I'd stay away from it. It is clearly a loss leader provided to ease the sale of the spindles. The spindles are to all accounts decent. The HY VFD is not, even when it works.

So, I think you find a spindle with an ER20, and shop for the VFD from a source that competes on VFDs, not one that throws them in as a condition of sale. I know firsthand that the Hitachi VFDs are well engineered, and I'm sure there are many others. For example the VFD that factorymation.com calls the 7300CV looks solid.

Kobus,There is a company called "sew eurodrive" I don`t know their nr.they are situated at the showgrounds offramp from Maraisburg side.I have seen one of their VFD`S and I think it will be the one.Also try Siemens ,My edgebinder had one in and it looks solid.

Got VFD, need spindle

Fixed up old chair...think it is Maple...Made copy of front legs to make another set later on my indexer.
Attachment 11204

Photo is a bit small, looks more like Oak to me, that style of chair was usually done in Oak. Did you copy the carving on the back panel as well - that will be easy to produce with your Aspire I would imagine :)

Thank's for the input Allan. I thought that it could be Maple as it looks like the Flamed Maple I ordered for my violin. Yes the back piece is EASY to do with Aspire.
It does not look like the Oak that I have available right now.

Attachment 11222

Looking at the fleck on the side of that arm, now convinced its Oak - the reason it does not look like the Oak you have now - because we dont get good Oak like that any more. Maple is much lighter in colour with not as big a difference between early and late wood (grain pattern).

Thank's Alan. So this is REAL wood.....;)
Was a pleasure to work with...got a nice finish with furniture scrapers....did finish it with 3 coats of Woodoc-10 with Oak tint. Customer came to pick it up tonight...was very happy.

That looks like quarter sawn oak to me. Here in the states quarter sawn oak is very desirable.

English oak

At least I know what this is.....SABIE YELLOWOOD..aka pine...:D

Got an order to make 4 legs 860mm high...she did not want any 3D on it :mad:

But the customer is ALWAYS right.
Attachment 11241

Attachment 11242

Especially if they are paying :)

Looking good.

nice Kobus how long did it take?

When I did my first 3d leg it took nearly 2 hours for roughing and 2 hours for final cut.
As I progress with Aspire and use the different tools in Aspire and because my indexer is dual purpose ( stepper and electric motors ) I brought it down to about 34 minutes for roughing and 34 minutes for final cutting. Just more than one hour per leg I would say....then some sanding.
Want to bring the time per leg down further.

Kobus,
Was that done with the circular saw heador the router? Have you tried the lathe mode with the router?

Nice work! :)

This still with the router. I think I can speed up the process on turned stuff without 3D by using my little saw.:p
I have tried the lathe mode with the router long time ago before Aspire and 2 rail sweep.
At that time is was not working well, might give it another go. But remember the sawblade is only 2mm wide and the router bit is anything from 3 to 6mm.

Kobus - don't underestimate the sawblade - I am building one machine which I will post pics of soon with the saw blade and its fast - real fast (like the one JR had built)

and then watch this video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWyZCWkpLcI

Kobus,

My 2c worth: a saw blade is designed to cut radially. If you put it in a lathe, you are forcing it to cut on the side of the blade. If you speak to our friends at Leuco or Austro, they might have a special blade for an application like yours. This will considerably increase your cutting speed.

Thank's Irfan...pity the video is so bad. Would like to see what his blade looks like.
Thank's Jan will check with them. When I did the first runs on that thing of mine I did notice that the blade is moaning a bit, but I slowed the feed speed down and it was ok, but then again the overall time of cutting goes up.

Kobus I had a talk with a contact. Yellow wood R 2500 a cube The real thing

I have personally used the 4.5" (100mm) diameter wood carving blade designed for side/front gullet cutting in this application. works very well and quick.

Sean is that the WOODCARVING blade you can fit on a baby angle grinder? This is what I am looking at using now. I have one for Power Carving...a bit wide (3mm I think ) but will give it a try.

Ok Hennie when are you comming up with your truck ?;)

Yep, that's the one Kobus. It is a bit wide, but when I need a really narrow profile, I use a slot cutting mill disk from by bridgeport metal milling which can handle the side load on the gullets.

I'll be honest, I haven't done this in about 5 years, but it worked great then.

I also used that wood carving disk, on a baby angle grinder, on my MM Z-axis to reproduce that WAVE pattern board that Gerald and Sean designed so many years ago. IT worked really well, but getting the toolpath to step-and-repeat so all the panels could be used end-to-end was a bugger!

Kobus,
The guys from Leuco sell a hogger. Seems to be the right thing for you. It cuts radially and laterally.

Jan whats a Hogger

As-salam alaykum!

kef halak?

http://www.leuco.co.za/images/produc...ogger_main.jpg

http://www.leuco.co.za/product_pages...ts_hoggers.htm

Ma'a salama!

Jan that LOOKS very very EXPENSIVE:eek:

It's from Leuco... it will be :)

Well, if you don't ask, you will never know. If you have to ask, you can't afford.

Dammed if you do, dammed if you don't.

I've used Leuco blades for many years, resharpened them often and always had good service.

I think old EL-CHEAPO me will first try my wood carving angle grinder blade that I already have before being dissapointed with a Leuco price.

Look what arrived in the post today...All the way from Slovakia
Big Blue start your engines there are violins to be made.:D
Attachment 11294

Attachment 11295

Had to do a small oval thing for an old lady. Had to be a St Joseph lily.
Found a nice one at http://www.3dmodelclub.com/cmsj15/ must say the quality of the final product was amazing...even on a small size like this.
Attachment 11299


Also busy with my PORTABLE CNC... pity it is not a MM, but I needed one that is small enough to take to my woodworkers association. As I am the South African agent for UIM Robot stepper drivers, I might just build a few for sale. Already a few members are showing interest.
Attachment 11300

Note..the wooden parts are just for getting it all sorted..As I cannot design in CAD, I build it this way, and will then have the parts made by a Laser Cutter.

Waar het jy die rail blocks gekry?

He he he... my geheim. Hoeveel soek jy.. 20mm ok ? Praat net, ek het mos 'n besigheid :D