I started cutting a bigger job with my server2000 machine as controller and ended up with a watchdog error which killed the job. Too bad as it was going well. I upgraded to XP and more ram etc. and I was able to get through the job with no unwanted interruptions. I'm running my printer port at 35k and am happy to run jobs at 200 ipm.

I have to add some brushes to my rails, I get lots of build up on my rails from styrofoam that is a pain to clean off.

My X axis steppers are running around 45 deg C. Is this ok?

Smoothstepper --> I don't really like the idea of putting the smoothstepper in with my computer. I wonder if ground is the issue. Maybe its related to the USB voltage difference bettween USB1 and 2?

Have a great weekend and happy cutting.

45 deg C is very cool for a stepper motor.

Brushes for cleaning rails have never made sense to me - there will be no scrubbing, only sliding. I think a "scraper" with a v-notch will do a better job than the side of a bristle. Scraper made of plastic or even brass. Or oiled hard felt.

Here's a few pics of my first real 3D cutting on the MM. It's working really well so far but man that pink foam cuttings gets everywhere!

Greg,

Is that a sailboat design I see sticking its hull out of that foam.

You have my attention. I would love to make some of them. Tell me more, please.

Greg,
You want to see foam shavings! I filled a 3 Yd dumpster on Friday...of just the shavings. :D
What CAM engine are you using to create your files? The step over control looks very good from the picture.

(not that I am proud of that or anything)

Hi Nils,

Actually, it's a one half of an airplane that I have designed. I am making a 1/4 scale version for RC testing. But I've attached a teaser for you of one of our boat designs.

Hi Sean,

I'm using RhinoCam for my gcode. Next time I cut, I am going to do things differently. I'll profile the outline in 2d first, get rid of the excess material and then jump right to my finishing passes. I figure I'll save about half the time on a job.

I had quite a time with foam shavings building up on my rails, rollers and rack. I've come up with what looks like a cheap and easy way to cover my wheels for my next job. What do you think?

Greg,
I am using RhinoCam as well.
I have found that I do a region that removes enough foam for clearance for the final tool bit. Then, Only create one parallel finishing pass w/ a high rate of step over....like 25%. Saves A LOT of cutting time. On the average I am shaving a hour off the cutting of each face. Currently I am cutting either 2 faces / 180 degrees out or 4 faces / 90 degrees apart.

I like your dust covers.

I have installed scrapers on the rail just infront of you dust box out of UHMW that "scrub" the rails like a cow pusher on a train. Works well enough so far.

Sean

Greg,

It sure looks like a boat hull. I would like to see more of the airplane when you cut more.

That boat looks very fast. What size will it be?

I like your dust covers also. Did you put some felt inside? I would think you still have to have a way of cleaning the wheels because I am sure form will get in there.

Greg,
Where is the dust collector? :)

Heath, with a foam block that soft & deep, the dust collector either misses it or damages it - take your pick.

Sounds like a messy pain the the rear. :)

During these operations, I actually removed the dust collection and router blast shield. The downdraft of the router keeps the cut area very clear.
For dust collection, I installed a box fan and filter in one door in the shop, and leave the main bay door open. This way I suck most of the mess one direction. Clean up is with a snow shovel and vac at the end of the session.

...respirator a really good sealing goggles for me and anyone else in the room.

(reminder, some types of EPS and Poly.based foams can give off very bad fumes when cut, use the appropriate organic filter and cartriges in your Personal protection everyone) My little safety note for the day.

I was thinking an exhaust diverter like this one
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=158
would work better so that the dust extractor could suck up as much as possible? Maybe that doesnt work that well in practice though, as Gerald mentioned the dust foot getting in the way.

Sean,
Did you make one like in the above link or use a purchased one? Just curious.

You could just rub lotion on yourself and stand next to the machine (Tar & Feather dust collection) :D

That stuff gets everywhere and sticks to everything. When your cleaning up, the static makes it stick real good

Mike,
Funny you asked! The other day I was walking to the shop during a later afternoon rainstorm. 10 minutes later, I looked like the michellan man!

Sean show us what you are making !:)

Hennie,

Not to speak for Sean but it is all top secret stuff. I have been to the shop but he won't allow any photos but the work he is doing is really nice. Nice detail.

Yes MM fans, the stuff I am currently working on is under NDA and can't be shown. Sorry, I promise after the project is released to the public, I will post all the photos. I have documented the process fairly well.

Sean

Is it a Bird, a Plane or a Super MM???

Your cutting strategy makes total sense. Getting rid of the horizontal roughing will cut the snowflakes down by at least 50%.

I am slotting my dust covers so that they will act like a scrapers. I'll glue some felt on the insides to make sure that as little as possible makes it in.

Also I'm going to try a small clip to hold them on instead of having to unbolt them to clean the wheels.

I'm also looking for some 6" x 1/2" two or four flute ball nose end mills with 3-4" cutting length. Do you know of any tooling company that sells these?

Thanks, Greg

Hi Heath,

Interesting concept. What would be even more interesting would be to use this and bring the vacuum pipe down onto the motor. (if you could reverse the built in fan). But still something would still have to suck up the chips. Interesting to think about!

Greg, are you telling us that you don't use an exhaust diverter? That is unforgiveable! I thought everyone did that as standard - once you have tried one, you will think that anyone who doesn't use one is nuts! :D

Every cutting day is like Christmas around here Gerald :)

I had no idea :o

Sean removes his for foam though?

This shows my lack of experience in cutting foam :D

I installed a touch-block into my table for zeroing tools. I used pin 13 on my PDMX and ran a wire to it under my table. The grounding through my table was fine so no other wire was required.

I then had some fun in mach 3. I adjusted my 'All Ref Home' button to zero x, y, z (to the top) and then zero the z with tool to the table. This means on startup I am ready to go. I made a Change Tool button to move the router to the end of the table where it is easy to change tools and I made a Zero Tool button for changing a tool while in the middle of a job. Works really well so far. Mach3 scripting is pretty easy once you get the hang of their button and dro id's.

Heath,
count on me. I am in Toronto, DVP & 401. Would like to meet you guys.

Milosh

Hi Heath

got a question in regards to the X axis Racks.

Did you have foam building up on them? I suppose not as much since they are "far away" from the job and also upside down.

thanks!
francis

Francis,
This thread is for Greg's machine, mine is still under progress. Well actually on hold until my shop is complete. :)

Ooops.

Greg, I'm passing the question to you now. :o

thanks!
francis

Hi sprayhead,

Yup the foam went everywhere. Ends up as black scale building up on the x-rails and wheels the most. The y-axis gets dirty too, but not half as bad as the x-axis.

The best way to remove the stuff was Sunlight Dish Soap and water on a cloth. (Better than scotchbright pads or sanding) :)

Thanks Brad

I really thought that the X racks were not going to be very affected. Please mate if you cut foam like that again could you post a picture of the racks, thanks. Nice cuts!

francis

Hi Sprayhead,

Talking with domino11, we both believe that a big part of the dirty rail issue is can be solved with an exhaust diverter on my router. I'll be testing this out shortly and report back the results.

Of course a liquid cooled spindle would probably help if someone would like to donate one :)

Greg,

what do you think about 'grounding' rails. I know it sounds silly but my logic is that charged particles of foam needs to be discharged somehow. When they touch rail they will fall off because there is nothing to hold them - they loose their charge. I believe you've noticed some rubber 'tape' attached to the body of a car touching the ground - against static electricity. I think that applying same logic, probably you may solve the problem.

Just my 2 cents.

It would be easy to test. Just atatch a clip lead for a test to ground. :)

It's worth a try; next cuts I'll try it out, keeping in mind that it is literally snowing when the foam is being cut!

Greg,

winter is coming and we need a Santa. :D

Show as a photo how it looks like.

Friend of mine was working in entertaiment industry - video games. Once he told me that they had a problem with static in one of their game room. Carpet was so charged that when people are touching a chassy of the game, game got crazy. They found solution that every morning before opening, they spray carpet with destilated water mixed with detergent with anti static additive. Is it something like that feasable for you? What I mean not to spray carpet of flor, but foam aroung the cut or something...

That is the reason why one can get under your MM, it is to clean it:).I always have a 2 L bottle of water that I spray onto the floor help with static,helps with dust when you walk in your shop and makes it easy to sweep the floor.

Arcade Fun
 

Here's how to have some arcade fun with your Mechmate:

1. Whip it up into a 2d file and cut it.

http://www.crosstrainer.ca/downloads/cnc1.jpg

http://www.crosstrainer.ca/downloads/cnc2.jpg

2. Glue it together

http://www.crosstrainer.ca/downloads/cabinet.jpg

3. Paint, trim and sticker it....et voila! Oh ya... don't forget the computer!

http://www.crosstrainer.ca/downloads/done.jpg

That was easy, on to the next project!

Hey Greg,
That looks really cool! Did you do the whole cabinet or was that for a customer?

Very cool. I am interested in hearing more also.