Consolidated reply:
Alan, you concerns are well noted. After many years in the entertainment industry I have found no real cause for alarm on reliability. Actually, the amphenol modular shells have a tendency to crush or melt on me. The XLR, is a standard for me (and I have A lot of them :) I only use Swithcraft or Neutrik with the 14 GA pins and extra large solder cups. Typically for machine use I use 3 pin xlr for Estop loop, 4 pin for power, and 5 pin for drive control. This is an Audio/Visual standard that I adopted years ago. It helps to be standardized when your 4 pin xlr is missing and you can go the vendor next to you and borrow a cable that will help the Rolling Stones start their concert on time!

Gerald, I played with that darn rotary disconnect position for days! Your right...it works where it's at, but alignment was a pain in the *&^ to get perfect. Next round I am going to put it dead center and have it as the separator between DIN component fields. I was too far along in the wiring process to go back....as always, you miss nothing. And I like it that way ;)

Greg, Well see if any issues arise. The make-and-break frequency of XLR reliability comes from the repeated use of the shell on a daily basis. I really plan on making the connection a couple of times a year - if that. Personally, I have had great success using them. I still have 30+ axis' of automation gear running on Broadway with the aforementioned 3,4,5 pin set up that I built in 1995....10+ years and no report of issues. Hopefully, I will have the same luck.

From the switchcraft website www.switchcraft.com

for their xlr connectors

SPECIFICATIONS

ELECTRICAL

Contact Resistance: 50 milliohm maximum, per pole.

Current Rating:
3 pole - 15A, 4 pole - 10A,
5 and 6 pole - 7.5A,
7 pole - 5A @ 125VAC.

Insulation Resistance: 1,000 M(omega), minimum.

Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 1,000 V (rms).

Capacitance: 2 pF between pins and 4 pF between
pins and shell, maximum (AA3M and AA3F).

MECHANICAL

Insertion/Withdrawal Forces: 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, insertion; 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, withdrawal.

Wire Size: #12 wire gauge solid; #14 wire gauge stranded (3 contact).
#14 wire gauge solid; #16 wire gauge stranded (4 contact).
#16 wire gauge solid; #18 wire gauge stranded (5 and 6 contact).
#18 wire gauge solid; #20 stranded (7 contact). (Q-G and QGP).


These look like they would work well. I have also used them in the past for professional audio solutions with good results. You do need a good quality one as Gerald suggests though. Switchcraft has always been good for me.

Heath,
Thanks for the backup data. I was pulling the white paper from the website when you post popped up to verify what I already knew from experience.
To add to you data - The 4 pin XLR is 10A @ 60V. Plenty of headroom!

Doug...please! Your wiring is spot on. Each baker in the kitchen uses different pans and pots, but the result is pretty much the same. Keep up the good work yourself. I hope your cutting wood before me! Ready - set - go!

Had to say high to you stagehand superstars.
**waves**
10 years on broadway ?? I thought they closed "Cats" lol :) har har.

I.A. member.

Sean,
Yeah the 4 pin is in my post but I didnt see the 60V on the switchcraft website. I only saw reference to 125V AC. Do you have data that gives different voltages for the various pin counts? 60V might be a little low for guys using the higher voltage supplies.

Direct from my Switchcraft database from my vendor. My rating at 60 Volts was the cross reference chart I was using for Nuetrik. The rating on the connectors I am actually using is for Switchcraft. There is a significant difference in the series and model number on XLR's. Some do have a lower ratings, but if you look, you can find the right ones at Mouser, Newark and other suppliers for reasonable pricing.

Note:
Q-G® CONNECTORS
Q-G®AUDIO CONNECTORS A, AA, AND QGP SERIES
AA Series Only

* Rugged 1-piece cable clamp to relieve pulling and twisting stresses on terminations.

* No Screws flex relief retention system.

* Integral bump shell grounding system.

SPECIFICATIONS

ELECTRICAL

Contact Resistance: 50 milliohm maximum, per pole.

Current Rating: 3 pole - 15A, 4 pole - 10A, 5 and 6 pole - 7.5A, 7 pole - 5A ALL RATED FOR 125VAC.

Insulation Resistance: 1,000 M(omega), minimum.

Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 1,000 V (rms).

Capacitance: 2 pF between pins and 4 pF between pins and shell, maximum (AA3M and AA3F).

MECHANICAL

Insertion/Withdrawal Forces: 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, insertion; 7 pound maximum, 5 pound nominal, withdrawal.

Wire Size: #12 wire gauge solid; #14 wire gauge stranded (3 contact). #14 wire gauge solid;
#16 wire gauge stranded (4 contact). #16 wire gauge solid; #18 wire gauge stranded (5 and 6 contact).
#18 wire gauge solid; #20 stranded (7 contact). (Q-G and QGP).

Sean,
Ok thats great, Looks like the same info I copy and pasted from switchcraft. Good to know that switchcraft connectors are good for 125Vac but others can be only good for 60V on multipin configurations. Will have to go with the quality vendors like switchcraft. 60V sounds marginal for some of our applications. No good for the 240V mains guys on the other side of the pond but good for the steppers.:)

I stand corrected.:D
Maybe I just needed to stir the pot a little bit.:p

Heath,
My intention is XLR use only for steppers and estop/button use only. For big power I still like the NEMA Hubbell Twistlocks - like the flange receptacles I have in the bottom of my box. McMaster has a wonderful assortment of the Leviton and Eagle brand that are affordable.

Sean,
Yes I like the twist lock style connectors for mains wiring as well. I just meant that for the mains voltage the xlrs were not my first choice but would be fine for the stepper connections! The twist lock connectors offer a much higher voltage rating which is perfect for 120V or 240V and lots of current capability.

We have power!
 

..I should have learned from Doug. Yep, As you can see from the attached photo I finally have all the electronics up and running and debugged. It would have all worked if I had read Doug's post closer and realized that the a1/a2 coil contacts are not labeled on the EIC CN22 contactor's. I had the system wired to the wrong contacts and had no coil activity for 2 days. I spent the better part of friday night tracing every wire against my schematic and all matched. It wasn't until I decided to just hot wire the coil for some activity when I noticed that I wasn't pulling in the coil. Long story short - NOTE the location of the coil connections early on on your relay's. In my 20 years of wiring these things have I never been so dumbfounded over a really fundamental wiring error. All wiring working. XLR's worked really well. Mach 3 talking well to all the drives. All drives responding under Jog. All motors moving in jog mode. Next step is to route printer cable and finish dressing the interior of the Control cabinet.
Hopefully, I will start the rails and welding the x & y components on Wednesday.
Attachment 658

Congratulations on your progress!!! Those terminals are easy to miss. Sorry you wasted so much time but I'm glad to know I'm not the only guy to miss seeing them.

Sean,

That's nothing (mis-wiring). I haven't documented 1/2 of my mistakes. ;)

Your progress is looking good. :)

I have a question, what is the feeling about the reliability of computer 9 pin serial connectors where the wire from the driver and motor pigtail connect?

J.R.,
If I've read your post correctly, you're thinking of using DB-9 connectors at the motor to connect the motors to the wiring that goes to the stepper drivers. If that is what you're asking, don't do it. The DB-9 (and DB-25, DB36, DB-50) connectors was designed to just carry a few milliamps of current. Although that connector can handle more current, at first, eventually the contacts will erode, connections will become erratic, and you'll be one of many who spend their days and nights talking to themselves in a padded room. Maybe that's just a little extreme, but I've worked on a lot of equipment from Lucht Engineering and from Bremson Data Systems that used DB-xx connectors to carry current. Both companies redesigned their products and used heavy-duty plugs and receptacles on their second version controllers.

I'm standing at the door of that padded room as it is. I surely don't need a push:D. What would be the reccommended 4 wire connector for inline?

JR,
It's good to see you back. Usually I use the Amphenol modular backshell and crimp pin, but I had all the XLR in stock and on the shelf.
Modular pins connectors I like (in no particular order)
- Nema L series twistlocks...many configurations, great current capacity..but large in form factor. I used these for the Router and Dust collection on my box...See photo in post 92
- Amp crimp pin for the 3 to 28 pin connectors
- XLR, because they are metal and last and carry "a decent amount of current"
- Molex - if the twist connection type
- phoenix 4 and 5 pin (like the modbus and device net used on PLC networks for machine control

Don't like
Wegman 4 pin (like the shopbot once used and not anymore for many reasons)

J.R.,
I normally just use DIN terminal blocks. They are big and bulky. They are are not quick-disconnect, but, they are secure and inexpensive. I've had zero failures with DIN terminal blocks.

Check out this site for XLR connectors. Is there a better place to order? I'm thinking NC4FX and NC4MX or A4F and A4M.
http://www.markertek.com/p/fullpage.php?page=021

JR.
The Silver contacts are fine. The "gold" contact series is really for the marketing people. Nuetrik is a great choice. The modular back shell "twists" on to act as a strain relief and insulator. Good for machine work and fairly robust. I order from Markertech often, you won't be disappointed in their service. Please make sure you order some very small 3/32" or 1/8" shrink tube for the solder joints. It's easy to get a stray fiber or two in these connectors if your not really careful.
Sean

Sean, thanks for the recommendation. I ordered 10 pcs NC4FX and 10 pcs NC4MX last night and they ship today, as per e-mail confirmation. I think you are right, I'm going to like www.markertek.com , thanks again

Mike,

Can you give us a link to the DIN terminal blocks you use?

Doug,
I buy my DIM terminal blocks locally. You can find terminal blocks at www.factorymation.com or www.automationdirect.com. Typically, you will need the terminal blocks, rails, end-covers, end-brackets, and jumpers.

Locally, terminal blocks cost about $1.00 each. On line they cost about $0.50 each, but you have to buy them by the box.

Mike,

Thanks. I misunderstood the earlier post. I thought Sean was talking about connecting the wires from the motors to the cables. I thought you were using some kind of terminal blocks for that. I get it now.

I'll try to read more closely in the future. Thanks again.

Sean, nice connectors, they came today. thanks

Markertek delivers quick again. The real reason I use them. Sometimes not the best price-but they have it in stock and quick delivery. Like mcmaster

Shops really cold, I guess it's time to do some welding then!
 

...Today was a record day. 28 degrees in Orlando. With it this cold (I know it's all relative to where you live) I figured I would help warm up my unheated shop with a little welding. Y - car all welded up and off to bondo and paint.
Attachment 676

Attachment 677

Looking good Sean,

Just received my hardware for mounting the V-rollers. McMaster is the best for delivery (ordered Monday, delivered today, regular ground ). Actually, they have the best prices when it comes to fastening (nuts, bolts, etc) hardware.

A couple of barley sandwiches (American for beer) after my day job and off to the shop for some fun time :)

Sean,
Your shop sounds a lot warmer than mine. Last night it dropped to -28 C or -18.5 F for you US guys. That concrete floor gets pretty cold that way. :( Welding wont warm up that one. :) Your Y car looks good. Keep sending us the pics. How did you find the Bondo for filling in the cracks? Did you have to sand after or did you just tool it and let it set?

Heath,
I only bondo'd the plug weld areas on the car. The fillet area's - for the time being - are just naked. I didn't do the caulk or bead filling. Maybe later, but the car looks pretty nice painted.

Sean,
Cant wait to see what you are going to be making with the beast. :) More pics please

...off to Home Depot...I just burned up my grinder cutting down the rails.:eek:

Sean,
Are you planning on using the capped rails or using the skate method? Just wondering. I am still debating which way I will go.

I plan on only using the skate to grind the angle. I bought a SteelMax saw. It cuts through 1/4" steel like butter. Amazing. Steel isn't the slightest bit warm after the cut.

grinding is working...but require patience and a lot of time. Not to mention really dirty. Knowing what I know now, I would most likely spend the $ on the cap rail. If your building as a true DIY, the cutting and grinding method with the skate is easy and a great learning experience. Definitely worth doing it once for the experience.
My 2 cents. Sean
...lack of patience has cost me one cheap grinder. Small price for learning. I can't wait until Gerald gets back and gives me the fatherly...I told you so. LOL

How many 2 cents do you think you have in the grinding of the rails if you count the cost of the jig, Grinder and your time?

I am all in for the experience but I am starting to think that I may use the cap rail approach.

You have made a lot of progress on your machine this week. I will have to stop in and give a third party progress report.

Nils
I wasn't planning on doing any work on the mm. It just fit in during the few down hrs I had. Sneaking in shop time around the real work is a heck of a challenge.

Sean, When you get back from your trip, I will stop by.

Seriously, how much do you think you spent grinding the rails yourself? It just seems like good way to go, buying the caps.

Independent Report on Sean's Build
 

Sean,

Thanks for taking the time today between your work on your MM and waiting for the Baby.

First, NO Baby news.

Sean has to finish grinding the rail for the Gantry, paint the Gantry and install the Z. It will not be long before Sean will be cutting.