Well, i need some help regarding the reduction belts and pulleys.
If anyone has any decent shop for these pulleys, and belts together, I would much appreciate.
The reduction casing and spindle holder will try to cut with friends wooden cnc, hope it will work.
was looking for something like this, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flanged-15-T...ht_1474wt_1163
But there is no 45 teeth.
Also, I was planning to take 20 and 60 teeth, but Danilo told me that i need to make reduction casing bigger.
So if anyone has any plans about it, please share it.

Hi Marko

You are very through, your numbered welds on the C Car show good attention to detail.

I also looked at your ebay source for pulleys but they did not have what my design called for.
Most people have used a 15 and 45 tooth pulley combination to get 3:1 reduction rather than your 20 and 60 tooth solution.

If designing your own belt reduction drives this link to a pulley belt length calculator will be very helpful http://www.sdp-si.com/cd/default.htm

The distance between the pulley centers will have an effect on the number of teeth that make contact on the smaller pulley.
There are limits to how far apart you might want to make the pulley centers as it can potentially interfere with clearances.
An example of this would be on the C Car motor extending below the bottom of the gantry tube.

There is a thread about belt reduction drives in Common Assemblies and Parts, Driving Mechanisms on this forum, you probably should read every word of it. http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366

Regards
Ross

Long time no see, but in the meantime i was working on my brain(finishing college), and lately working on my MM.
Thank you Ross, I decided not to go for now on reduction, but to build my own casing for reduction gears, maybe even pulleys.
Here is a short and stupid video done today with my MM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afiYwoe2LnM

:):)

Hello Marko !


I am beginning building my MM and I am looking for a supplier for a laser parts kit. Could you tell me where did you find yours ?


Thank you !


Hardouin

Hi Harduin,

I ordered it from Danilom from this forum. Maybe you can check it out, or there is someone closer then him.
Today's update:
Was working whole day, but it was worth it :). I hope tommorow to finish the grinding and getting ready for painting. Will be a fun day tommorow :D

http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...81_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...87_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...92_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...93_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...95_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...96_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...98_450x600.jpg

I encountered a problem while assembling spider plate wheels.
The distance center to center between holes for wheels is 131 instead of 132 like in plans. A benders error, its ok.
With eccentric bolts, i am still 4-5 mm short if the plate in the picture above is 100 mm.
I have the plans for a long time, were there any changes?
calculating the wheels, the spider plate and everything, there is no way that the wheels can fit to the plate.
Looking for a quick solution, but i think ill drill a new holes or grind the plate.

Holes are drilled after bending and should be drilled at distance you need.

Weld the holes and drill new ones.

Ty Danilo, i guess the guy who bended it, saw the distance 132 and decided to drill it, which I overlooked.
This actually makes my work much easier.

It looks like you may also need to countersink the holes a little more on the Z-slide. The heads standing proud of the steel plate may be an issue, depending on your attachment to the router...

That isn't a big issue, but sure look ugly.

A drill bit does not have a 90 degree angle on the nose (most are 118 degrees), and that is why it doesn't work as a countersink bit. I can see you tried to drill the "countersinks" a bit below the surface to get the screw head level, but the angles are not matching up.

Thanks everybody

What happened is that I did the countersink the holes, and then went drilling the 50x30 squared pipe, but I reversed the sliding plate and when i finished drilling, I thought that holes could not match, and they didnt. Thats why the heads are not flat.
I grined the drill bit to be very close to 90 deg, but the alignment of the holes is the issue.
Checked if the sliding plate has any distortion but there are none. I am considering making the holes of 8 diameter and get new countersunk screws.
The only need for the 50x30 pipe is to flatten the sliding plate, and to get support for air shock, so I think there shouldnt be any major problems to redrill it for bigger screws?

I weld the pipe to the plate (two small welds) and then drill the thread size holes right through. Then break the welds and finish the drilling/countersinking/threading on the seperate pieces.

How simple thing can be effective, didnt think about it.
Thank you

Also 1 question regarding eccentric bolts.
I belive I have low quality bearings coz when i tighten the bolt trough eccentric bolt, the bearing starts to put some major resistance in turrning the V wheel.
When i loosen it up, the eccentric starts to turn and there is no way i can fix(stop from turning) it then.
Was thinking to weld eccentric and trough bolt together, and not to use tap holes on spider plate. Any ideas how to overcome that?

Thanks

Check the bearing race and thrust washer.

If the washer is too large of diameter, it will bind on the outer bearing and prevent it from moving. Or, you need to add a bearing that matches the thrust part of the bearing for movement.

I have checked it, its ok.
My only concern is how to prevent eccentric bolts to lose their position when the machine is operating, beacuse i cant tighten them properly.
If i tighten 2 hard on the bearings, there will be no rotation from them. I think I should buy new bearing and press them into my V wheels. Will post pictures today.
I think there is some space between bearings in the V wheel, and when i press it from both sides, there is some distortion inside and therefore the resistance.

Problem solved, had to put drilled spacer between bearings.
Some pictures
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...99_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...00_800x600.jpg
My loyal friend lying behind me always waiting for a hug
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...02_800x600.jpg

Painting done
I was amazed by this color when I saw it. MM will gain a industrial feel.
1 Week in total of painting.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...05_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...64_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...11_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...45_450x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...77_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...11_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...11_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...04_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...44_800x600.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...99_800x600.jpg

Good job Marko :)

i almost paint it whit this hammered metal paint effect. that i turn to blue. now iam regret. that paint is harder and look better.

Thank you
The paint is pretty and very easy to paint. I have used 1.5 of 0.75 litre buckes, so its very economic, al thou I have layered in thick layer.
Only regret is that I haven't used black hammerite on black parts, because the black parts now look unequal in paint quality.
I have a question for a cable hangers or cable holders. I would like to purchase this cable holders, but ebay doesent have the right sizes.
If anybody can point me in the right link, would much be obliged.

Not sure why i cant edit my post, bit nvm.
Was thinking something like this, can anyone make a ruling?
http://www.alcomachinetools.com/Nosa...ypage.tpl.html

Odlican je taj nosac kablova iz Alco-a , neces pogresiti u makedoniji je na masini bez problema visi slobodno 1.5m

that one would work without problems, we mounted it on a machine in Macedonia with dual spindle and z motors, spans 1.5m without problems

Thank you Danilo, was waiting for confirmation, and im ordering it right now.
Hvala brate

Happy New year to all MM community (with delay)
Some work has been done, and some needs to be done.
A fun 4 days with very good help.
Some latest pics
Had to adjust desing of the cable holders support, beacuse of the I instead od C profiles. looks decent
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7323265671.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7409584963.jpg
Friend's Robocob moment, end of long day with satisfying results
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7332485326.jpg
Precision of the table on the total lenght
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7332360996.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7330254900.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...7330221301.jpg

Good job Marko. I await anxious to see this masterpiece working. :D

Thank you, just remembered i will send you some SW design on your mail. Anybody else needs it, just say here.
If the admins aprove it.

Thanks. I stay waiting for, Do you have my e-mail?

Like the color.

Lookin' good!

Thank you guyz for your kind words :)
As still in assembly phase, I was wondering do I really need proximity sensors.
Was having in mind this low price on ebay, but I cant be sure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inductive-Pr...item2323fc09e0
How do they react, on proximity from metal of there has to be positive-negative sensor?

Marko, This sensor it´s composed by original MM project? What´s the function it?:confused: Thanks.

Marko, those sensors are NPN, 4mm sensing range, 12mm size, normally open sensors. When used per the plans, these sensors will be in a 'closed' state normally as they are detecting the rails, and only open at the stops (when the sensor detects the opening shown on 10 10 246 for the X rail, similar for the Y) or if the gantry lifts off of the rails. If multiple sensors are placed in series, an open condition on any one of them will trigger the circuit. There are considerations, though, such as voltage drop / max current, etc. to think about as well as the particular BOB you are using and I have seen many discussions of this here. I was actually looking at those same sensors myself for my build. I have seen many builds here with no proximity sensors used, so I would not consider them essential. For me, it is more of a safety issue.

I am sure that one of the guys with more experience will chime in.

Ted

Chiming in....

Ted, you explanation was succinct and correct.
Nice feature, not required, but great when you have it for daily setup of machine.
One of the benefits of Mach 3 is it has a homing routine that allows all of the sensors to be wired in parallel and properly detect "home" for each axis while only using one input on the BOB. (I isolated each sensor via a relay for EMF isolation).

Again, great feature - but NOT necessary at all for the operation of the MM.

Note on operation without the homing sensors: The turn off....hold gantry against the adjusted hard stops...energize WORKS just fine and part of the MM design.

Sean

Thank you Ted and Sean,

You have been very helpful, I understand how to apply it to the machine. As I am planning to prepositioned moulds which will be positioned around the table, I will use these proximity switches.
Now I remembered that I forgot cable end connectors, insulated or not? So can anybody help out with this one. End cables to connect the control box with MM without cable interference.

My cable was M12 termination, 4 core, no shield.

Some movement, finally.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mFE9...ature=youtu.be

It is alive. That's a great feeling is it not. Nice paint color. I would have liked to use something else but I had blue on hand.