Hi all.

No worries Ken, I got the full picture now. I just needed to weed through the terms and get my head around the whole picture. I work in theory then I got to reality. Also using analogies helped me, ( the similiar to a car stereo build really flipped the "I got it" switch). I think if I give my version of how things work it will help people like me get it.

KenC, from a testing stand point, have you tested the amp loads as it runs, in a working enviroment, like a hard wood or something similar where its workinhg the machine hard(kind a worst case senerio). It would help people to know what they are.

My biggest concern in all this was not to damage or fry anything or ME!:D

Im firing her up today..kitchen table style.

Thanks guy
Jason

Jason, see this thread

Transformer supply current versus Gecko output current . . . . .

the measured real life currents are very low, and in that thread you can see we even doubted the accuracy of the ammeters in the beginning. But experience has proved over and over that the theory and formulae give oversized power supplies. The ammeters were not faulty.

No harm in having an oversized supply, unless it trips a breaker when you turn it on (some of us found that out too).

She alive! Green light all across the board.

Wired in the motors but no movement. Followed the mach manual but no luck so far. Tried a simple jog on the A axis and it tripped a relay in the BOB. Wires are 100% correct.

Jas

Congrats! for the lights but most importantly weeded out the 5x oversize power tranny.

I didn't do an extensive current monitoring since Gerald already did that. My are a clamp type amp meter which is not accurate but enough to indicate there are current flowing in the cables.

During cutting, the cutting force is the other variable perimeter which contributes to the motor load. Never measure this force directly, but I said it because I realised we don't need awful lot of force to hold the work piece down during cutting. Some times it is adequate to hold the work piece down by a light press with your palm but please avoid this when you can. This is a general observation.

As for your motor, did you motors warm up after power up? Is there any exposed wires & if the exposed wires touched anything they are not suppose to?

PS, Mike, the math is correct, what went wrong is the assumption of 5 motor will draw full power at the same time.

Thank you Ken, and no the motors did not warm up and I can turn them by hand, test button didnt move them either. I started with a 270K resistor on the first try. also I noticed that sometimes not all the J1-J6 side dont always stay on or never turn on but when I "search for new hardware" I here a click sometimes and they all light back up. I think I have a issue in the computer talking to the BOB problem. and something no set right on the other side evan though i wired it as spec requires.

Getting there though...:D

Jas

Reinstalled Mach3, working perfect now..not sure what happened to it.

Jas

ITS ALIVE!!!...ITS ALIVE!!!......MY CREATION IS ALIVE!!!!!!


One tuning note, only one motor hooked up -Y it goes clockwise...+Y goes clockwise.?.

Jason

Figure out the clockwise thing..pins and ports.

:D

Software are a mystery....
Congrats! Isn't it wonderful when things works!

One down, many to go. :)
Enjoy your journey!

Sweet !! Lets have a few pics and tell us what you decided on the motor wiring.

This is just kitchen table so far. Bipolar parallel with a 270K resistor just to get things moving. The motors didnt evan get warm at all so when i ran a 25 min g-code test run. There was a slight temp change but not more than if your hand was in the shade and moved into direct sun light on a 65 degree day I would say. So Ill will ramp it up to 330K then to 470K when the table is built...which is next. I had to ditch the On/Off push button, I rewired that put 4 times(per time plans) and it fired the On switch side each time.???.

Jas

If it possible to edit the #46 entry on this build thread it is wired incorrectly! My fault. The A1/A2 coil are on the top(left side of contactor in picture) not the side.

Jason

Jason, just post the correct info and someone can fix the other post for you. :)

Table is standing. Working on the rail drilling and placement.

Is the only thing holding the rack on the X rail is 3M tape and the 2 end bolts?

Jas

The other question is the height of the X rail with a V cap. Im using steel angle 2x2.5. Can I keep the height of 2 inches to place the V cap on?, avoiding half to cut a 10' long 1 inch peice on the 2" height off? Im concerned about the distance between the Top of the V cap and the where the rack and pinion meet if I keep the 2" height.?.

Jas

Yes, and it is plenty.

You must keep the height according to the plans if you want the system to work, otherwise you will have to adjust numerous other parts to accept the higher rail height.

I think you will run into problems with the motor/pinion union (i.e. the motor brackets won't let the motor pivot low enough to reach under a 2"+ high rail).
The rail cutting to height is not hard. Just look at the various jigs people have built for this. And use thin cutting disks.

Table is assembled, X rail for Vcap cut to proper height. I will get some pics rolling soon.

Jas

Rail Caps
 

I bought rail Caps and now wish I hadn't. The grinding isn't all that bad and you replace that task with drilling and tapping holes. I would rather grind. Want to buy some rails? Don't use 1/4-20 screws they are to big.

My machine has well over 200 hrs. with only 3M tape bought at Autozone holding it on. No bolts, no welds. Just tape.

Duct Tape
 

What no Duct Tape