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Gerald, I like the 'quick change mount' feature you made into your mount. (two alignment pins and one bolt to pull it tight to the Z-plate). Do you have plans for your router mount or could you make them available?
I was looking at the pictures from a couple of years ago earlier in this thread. |
Jack, that mount was done long before people nagged me to keep plans of these things :D
The pin holes and bolt hole are on the current z-slide drawings, but I havn't noticed anyone using them yet. |
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Thanks for reminding me Kobus . . . . . that I am getting old and losing my memory :(. Well that was more than a year ago! :)
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Gerald,
I used the pin and bolt mount for my most recent spindle attachment. Absolutely 100% needed! ...and works perfectly. Due to the spindle casing being threaded, I had to make a sub-attachment plate to attach to the z-slide. The pin arrangement worked perfectly. I will post pics next week when I get back to the machine. Sean |
I bet, if someone that has the talents and tools (not me currently :( ) drew up a quick drawing of a good pin and bolt mount plate with needed specs, it would be used. Having a couple of them included in laser cut parts (though not really needed) would encourage its use.
Especially noting the extra holes needed for the K2 router attachment and some popular spindle, and any other noted popular attachments (drills, scanner/probe, knife for vinyl, etc) Just a thought. |
Gerald,
I am going to use the same Makita router (not with the switch on the handle) that is shown in your post #16 on page 1. The handle mounting ears in your photo's doesn't look as if it was trimmed or cut back. When I check my router for the clearance in the y-car it was fouling as much as 5mm against the opening edge in the car(spider plate bolting space). Was the y-car dxf modified after this or did you grind the mounting ears back? |
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Johan, there was no grinding/cutting of the router "ears", and the hole in the y-car has never been widened/narrowed since the first drawing files (200mm clear). I think our ears might still be below part 10 30 455 when the z is fully up, but that machine has a z-slide that doesn't go as high as the newer 6-roller design.
But, there was another collision that needed some grinding . . . . The gusset part of 10 20 452 touched a lumpy part of the router's plastic body when the y-car ran fully across to the far side, and the z was fully retracted. Maybe about a 6mm deep notch was needed to clear the part indicated below: Attachment 5557 |
Thanks. You are right of course! The router doesn't go so high to get even close to the cut out in the car. I must learn to check things a little longer, specifically the assemblys! :)
I will file the 6mm away on the router body at final assembly. |
Johan, we didn't make any permanent mods to the router - the 6mm notch was in part 10 20 452.
PS. Hennie dropped in here yesterday. Showed him my normal tool supplier Power Tool Repairs in Woodstock, and he started drooling at the cutters on display . . . :) |
Ek is bietjie stadig vandag!
I hope you manage to keep Hennie away from the glass. Sales people hate droplets and finger prints on their displays. :D |
Hi, honey I am home just stoped in Plett,Thanks Gerald for taking me through Cape Town and doing the sight seeing route (he took me all over and even took me right up to where I needed to be thanks again )
I also had a visit to Cam Craft and saw what a couple of MM together look like ,nice! and that shop where I am surely going to spend a lot of Rand`s.Gerald I hope you know someone in the traffic dept.:) |
I just communicated with MidwestRapidTool. They are just finishing a Mach3 set of software for their changer. Once it is done, they said they would post on MechMate as a vendor.
They have focused on SB previously I think. |
Milwaukee 5625-20 Experience
I purchased my 5625-20 router in 6/2008 before I finished my build. I have been using the router regularly and have been satisfied with it. I purchased the 5625-20 over a Porter Cable because it is much quieter.
In May of 2010, the router would turn on and immediately power back down. Fortunately, the router has a 5 year warrenty. I took it in to the local service center and they replaced the Module Electronic Feedback unit (14-20-0050) and the Tachometer (23-38-0200). This last week the router started acting the same way it did in May. So I thought I had the same problem. I had a couple jobs in the works, so I ordered a new router and took the old one into the local service center. I have been using the new router and today the service center called me to tell me they could not find any thing wrong with the old one. I tried every thing I could think of before taking it into the service center. I plugged it into another power source, I cleaned it out, I looked at the tach and it would still shut down after ramping up. I have switched out the new router for the old. Keep the new one for when the old dies. I did buy an extra tach and electronic feedback module just to have on hand. Thought I would pass on my experience. |
Router Mounting bracket
I Just ordered a milwaukee 5625. I believe i saw and correct me if i am wrong a the MM with serial number 65 that had a slick looking mount for that router i was wondering where you found it?
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Mojo,
I don't know if Jimmy has this exact mount, but a really nice mount for the 5625 can be found at http://www.k2cnc.com/shop/products.asp?cat=31 for 65.00. Sean It's where I have purchased all my mounts in the past. |
Draw mine on cad, sub to a nearby water jet cutter and 35$ later mat. Incl ……Voilà a nice custom pair made !
Robert ;) |
Question about router mounting
I have two routers. One is a 1450 GMC (a local discount brand) and the other a 3hp Makita. Both of them are anout 205mm with the handles removed (the handle mountings account for about 2x10mm of this).
I've decided to experiment with the GMC shown below rather than take a hacksaw to the Makita: http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...C/PIC_0466.jpg I dissembled the thing and can't find a decent mounting place on the body. My question is what's opinions on removing the black base plate and mounting an L-bracket on the cast base. I can use 5 existing screw holes and 3 bolt-through mounts. I'm aware that this will restrict how close I can get to the workpiece , but it seems the most solid mounting. Getting around the body of the router is an option, but the odd shape will make this difficult to achieve. |
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Thanks, Kobus. Yes, the Makita has screws into the body like yours that I could utilise, but the GMC is "cleverly" engineered for integrated assembly of the spring loaded base, dust extraction and main body.
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I would think that if you take the handles off, and unscrew that black glide plate it should mount straight onto a base like mine. I would not worry to use the router dust extraction and will make my own dust foot.
or Buy a spindle....you will NEVER look back...trust me. It took nearly 3 years for me to come to this point and I must say there should be no alternative... Spindle is the answer. I know it's expensive, but it puts your machine on another level. |
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Try this
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Nice, Hennie. Thanks.
Kobus, A spindle is on the agenda. Just want to get cutting first with the router because of the easier electronics setup and cost. I'll buy a spindle on my next trip to China. |
side note: Milwaukee is a great brand name. The company is owned by the Techtronic Industry TTI. They also make AEG which is know for heavy duty tools but they are also the manufacturer of Ryobi an often overlooked product line by hoe owners. My point here is that if you want to save money Ryobi is not a bad way to go. My Ryobi grinder and 14 inch chop saw have been put through a lot of abuse and they are responsible for making the pile of steel I bought into the main structure of the MechMate. http://www.ttigroup.com/en/our_brands
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Our old Milwaukee 5625-29 routers say Made in USA. The new one says Made in China. Wanna place any bets as to which ones last longer? |
Hi Everybody
I have a wood router AWT/DWT Model: F-1200. I would obtain a electronic drawing for adapt in my mechmate project. Anybody can help me? Follow details of my router: Image: http://www.dwtbrasil.com.br/images/upload/129_g.jpg Specs: Trademark: AWT/DWT Motor: Universal Rated Power: 1200 W No-load Speed: 11.500 - 32.000 RPM Pliers Diameter: 6mm - 8mm - 1/4" Deep of cut: 0 - 30 mm Weight: 5 kg Similar Product Specs: http://www.dwt-pt.com/pt_of.php |
Good luck on getting plans.
The 1550W machine in post #98 stalled a few times in deep cuts on wood, so first decide whether the 1200W has enough power. I think you'll be taking the side handles, base, legs and springs off and then looking for screws that you can take out and use for attaching a L-shaped base plate that you then bolt to the z-axis as shown in posts #99 and #102. PS Even if you by-pass the on/off switch, keep the spark dampening box that's attached to the on/off switch, because this helps keep the tool alive longer |
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Aeg rt 1350 e
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I will be using a AEG router until I can justify a spindel.
I had to cut the handles off to get it to fit in. Remove the switch. I put 2 M12 bolts where the pillars were. Tape it up to keep the dust out. I used them to bolt the router to a plate. I got a plate profile cut. Drilled the holes in the plate. Drilled and tapped 2 M8 through the Z plate and Z slide tube. Bolt the plate to the Z slide plate. Insert the router and bolt to the plate. The tape isn't very elegant but it works.. Tried it out today, machine cutting. |
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