Ken, I think that you were lucky to use unshielded cable there.

Well we both got the 12v power supply for the same reason. Picture is kinda deceptive.

Sent you a pm.

Ken the "can get away with" part is what I am trying to avoid :) Can you tell me why you went with the ribbon cable?

The 4 wires from the drives to the BOB are so short that cable cost is not a problem and I can't see any reason not to use shielded cables....

Hi Gerald, Steve,
I used ribbon cable because
1) compactness hence easy laying out & installation
2) came with the BOB.
3) IMHO, my layout allow that.
4) you can call it a learning experience with handling noise...
To "get away" with noise, I lay my weak signals away from the strong signal.
Weakest signal, :- raw signals carried by the LPT cable, from the computer. Action, give a "special lane", I open up a chassis mount DB25 port right next to the BOB & ensure they are as far away from other signal sources such as transformers & power cables.
Normal strength signal, BOB sents out Boosted signal to the Drivers. Action:- Keep them away from the strong signals.
Strong & noisy signals, The Drivers, stepper power cable, transformers, capacitors, fans etc etc. Anything conductors that carries big amp AC/pulsating current.
Action, shield to contain their affluence on weak &/or normal strength signals.

Have a look at my frugal control box here.

Yes, I can use shielded microphone wires for this purpose, (and I already have them in hand) but since I "can get away with" ribbon cable, why not... ;)

I am also running ribbon cable from PC to BOB....why did I do it.....because I can...:) Just had it available at the time. After 2 years no problems. Maybe when I buy a spindle in the future I will have to re-look.

Another note,
I have 3 phase 415V available, I split the phases for separate usage. i.e. the PC is running off a separate phase, the control panel on a separate phase & the VFD runs on another phase. From experiment, the PC behave irratically when sharing the same phase with the VFD. it is fine when both the VFD & control panel shares the same power phase.
AND each phase has their own separate ground copper rod... Why? because they are there conviniently & so I can :)

Maybe I'm got lucky thanks to the combination of noise irradicating measures ;)

More note,
We can check the noise in the power line with a regular boom box radio. Share the power point with the boombox & try listening to radio station. If the power line is clean, crystal clear reception, but if the line is dirty, you will get noise uptil the point that you don't get any radio reception...... the worst is VFD, next is PC & notebook, surprisingly, the control panel is comparatively clean.

Well I'll be Damned :)
 

The darn thing works!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ELYhEifYg

Here is what I have been working on for the last three weeks... :)

After finishing the design and wiring of the control box I decided to put it in it's new home :) All the wiring is finished with the exception of cables that run outside the box.. All the pins and power supplies have connections on the bottom rail and will terminate there when I run the cables... The motor cables will run directly to the Geckos... I drilled the "stage" for a 5Th Gecko if I decided to add one later... The screws for that gecko are seen in the photo just to the left of the bob...

Attachment 9487

I plan on running the control cables through liquid tight flex duct and I need to make a cover for the computer printer cable that exits through the elongated hole...

Attachment 9488

The door has another little design feature you might like :)

Attachment 9489

I have spent too much time on making this baby to keep it locked in a dark box! I was a little concerned about opening the box up for shielding reasons but if I have any trouble I can always make a metal window shade :)

Attachment 9490

And all the indicator lights just begged to be placed where they were useful!

Attachment 9491

I started with a 20 x 20 x 8" box.... Ordered up a window kit that is designed to install on the side panel of a computer tower and got the old saw out....

Attachment 9492

The jig saw and a sharp metal blade made quick work of the window hole..

Attachment 9493

I used a step drill to make the holes for switches and cable grabbers.. For the elongated hole I just drilled two holes and used the metal blade to connect them. Attachment 9494

A little work with a file and she was ready for paint...

Attachment 9495

I am a little sad this part is finished... Now I have to worry about those darn rails :D

Well done!
With your perservere attention to details, the rails would be a breeze.

Great looking control box !!! Nice to have those motors movin :D

Thank you :)

Making the motors move was kicking my rear end.... I finally figured out that the charge pump setting was not enabled in Mach3.. I was sure happy to see them go after I turn that on :D

A little set back...
 

I am busy building a set of kitchen cabinets.. While using my current router table to shape the door rails the router decided to start acting up... I think the brushes are going out and that throws a monkey wrench into my plans... This is the router I was planing on using for my MechMate :(

I have been searching the forum looking for options... The spindle looks to be a superior motor for the machine and if I can make it happen for under 900.00 I think that's the best route...

I have never used a spindle and I am having a hard time finding a list of features that would allow me to make a informed decision... From what I have been able to find there are a few clear advantages ( I think)...

• The water cooled spindle is not a loud as a router motor.
• The spindle can be controlled easier than a router.
• The spindle might have a better accuracy due to better run out tolerances.

The Router also has a few advantages over the spindle.

• The router is much cheaper and easier to replace if it breaks.
• The router is needs no other electronic other than a relay...

So I am need of help from people that have experience.. What would you do if you had only 900.00 and planned on using the MechMate to cut plywood for cabinets, light metal for brackets and plates along with other general cutting duties...

I started my CNC experience with a Porter Cable router and eventually moved to a Colombo 3hp spindle.

The Porter Cable worked just fine. It was loud, but it cost less than $300 on the Internet. The Colombo with its controller, collets and wrenches cost about $3,500. In addition, I added another $750 for filters and suppressors to cure a non-existent electrical noise problem.

If I had it to do over again, I would still start with a router. I can only imagine how I would have felt if I had crashed my spindle like I crashed my router when I was first learning to "drive" my machine. Accidents happen. Spindles are fragile. Routers are cheap.

It cost less than $30 to replace the bearings in my Porter Cable router. Brushes are also inexpensive. I understand that a factory rebuild of my spindle to replace the bearings will cost more than $700.

Also, with a spindle, you have to properly warm the spindle up EVERY morning and then again if it has sat idle long enough to completely cool down. I'm fairly certain that I have logged almost as many hours in warm-up mode as I have logged in cut mode.

Of all the people who I've personally met who own Shopbots, only one started with a spindle; all the rest of us started with a router.

To be completely fair, I like my spindle. It allows me almost infinite control of the cut speed, but I could have just as easily adjusted the feed speed to fine-tune the cut. I have not had one minute's trouble with the spindle, but I never had any trouble with the Porter Cable in the year that I used it. I changed the bearings on a day when I had nothing to do. The Porter Cable ran cooler with the new bearings, but the cut quality was exactly the same. For that matter, the cut quality was no better with the spindle. My ears appreciate the lower noise level of the spindle, but my pocketbook suffered greatly.

in India I would go for the spindle (asian) 265 for spindle + 90 for shipping + 100 duties and other expenses + 300 for a delta VFD + 2USD for the ferrite core to take out the electrical noise+ 100 for cooling setup for water cooling set up.

thats 857 total,

we once changed the NSK bearings that cost us like 50 ...

I would say get a quote for a asian spindle and calculate how much you would spend for the setup,

i started with a router too, but would not recommend you to do the same - my makita was insanely loud!

Steve, Just wondering how things are going? We need a update from you :D

Buy a Milwaukee 5625 over a Porter Cable. Less noise.

I second that motion! Buy the Milkwaukee unless you already have the the P/C unit. A LOT less noise....like 30db or more.

HI Guys!

I'm BACKKKKKKK :)

Life has really gotten in my way for the last couple of years. Even my website work has had to take a backseat as I am overrun with construction projects and just no time or space to finish up my machine.

So..... Two custom homes, three custom kitchens with hand crafted cabinets AND building my own home, I am ALMOST ready to weld up my table!

Just have to finish up all the Knotty Alder raised panel doors for my house and I can move the wood shop out of the way and put the table together!

This may be the longest build in MechMate History :D

Steve, Great to see you back in action.
...we will be watching!

lol i'm going for that record welcome back.

Looks good to me Steve. :) My rails will likely be used instead in holding up chain hoists!

Hey John - You building a MechMate? Would love to see some pics !!

Not me. I thought about it enough to acquire some 6 X 3 tubing - but that is coming up on ten years ago. If its not old, way too big and probably rusty, I generally am not much interested.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...lusman-183407/

The thought about router related to this, and I don't mean models of it:

http://www.aeromuseumservices.com/

Ha!!

Well welcome to the forum and enjoy the reading. We try to keep posts focused on MechMate builds and support

Hi Guys...

It's now January of 2020... I started in January of 2010... By my math that makes 10 years since I started and I think I am officially entitled to the longest build award!

I have been thinking about making the rails for 10 years now and I think I finally have the tool to make them now :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWer...Y7A58&index=13

Good to see a build.
Keep at it.

How much space do you give your Mech Mate?
 

I finally have time and the desire to finish up this build. I'm cleaning out my shop and making a bunch of changes to find a space the MM can fit into.

IF you want to get an idea of my shop I am posting videos of my shop and what I do on this YouTube channel.. Please subscribe to follow along with a new home for the MM :)

The search for a place in my shop has been a long and difficult one as this machine is large and I still needed to make a living, the MM was always pushed to the back burner :(

Tonight I was sitting in the shop just looking at the space and I think I have come up with a plan.. It will involve making a doorway in a wall and I need to figure out how large it needs to be.

I am building a MM that will cut 100 by 50 inches. It has the belt drive standard MM setup. I was wondering if this MM would fit through a 59" wide doorway.

I have always planned on making the base table with removable ends so I could move it through doorways but have envied the simplicity and rigidity of a solid, one piece, table. With my new plan I think I can make it happen.

Could someone please measure theirs and give me an idea on what I will need width wise? I can make it wider if necessary but 6 foot wide standard doors would make it very easy.

Thanks
Steve

The table itself will be y+ about 19" I believe. The guage rod for setting x rails is y+ 461 mm (18.15"). Plus add the thickness of the rails so about 19". This of course doesn't include the overhang of motor.

My table is welded up and from outside to outside is 6 feet exactly but my main beams are 6.5 inches wide so overall is wider than yours would be. My is designed to cut 49" material.

Thanks,, I was thinking that the x motors are going to hang over a fair bit also.. I guess I could dismount them for the move...

I think Paul is going for the dimensions of the table itself. The gantry hangs over the rails; The rails are the outer width of the table, V-bearing on top of rail + spacer + gantry end + spacer + motor plate + motor is about 0.25" + 0.125" + 0.25" + 0.125" + 0.25" + 5-8" = another 6"-9" per side for a total of Y+ 19" + 12-18" if you have not removed the gantry.
That would be 50 + 19 + 12 = 81" minimum ( or 75" if you removed just the motors ).

Is removing the gantry and tilting the table on its side an option? That would be just 69" high, which should leave plenty of room for dollies underneath.

It looks like 71 inches on a regular door is too small... I could put it on it's side be that would be a chore turning it onto it's feet with only two people.

Still working on the layout of the machine within the room so I'm still up in the air on making the table in 4 pieces, plus the cross supports...

Heck I'm still thinking about taking off the angles on the c-channel I have.. :(

Why couldn't you get it through the doorway? It seems that only one time would you need to remove the Gantry/motor which can t take that long.
You'll spend more time trying to figure out ways around it!

I'm with Paul - if you're planning to move it less than once a decade, just get the manpower together to make the move and pull the gantry. In this case you should be able to do that before you wire the gantry for the first time.

Throw a moving party, or, heck, hire a couple pros to help out - they're not that expensive to do a quick turn onto dollies, roll, and turn back.

I think I will try it out with a 6' door and just install the gantry inside the room..

I have machine skates and everything to move the table it's just hard to control that much mass that is weighted heavily on one side... Hate to hurt anyone... IF I decide to turn it on the side I will build a fixture similar to a car rotisserie and just roll it in the door and roll it over :)

I just bought this welding table.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zE10jqp0TE&t=7s

I had to turn it over and cut the legs shorter to install adjustable legs... I haven't uploaded that video yet but it was interesting flipping it on it's side with all the weight off centered :eek:

How do you load your table?
 

I've been cleaning out a space for the MM and have come up with another way of putting the table in the available space.... Side Ways to the doors!

I was planing on putting in a set of double doors in a wall so that I could aim the table at the doors, keep it a foot or two away from the door and load 4 x 8 sheets through the doors and onto the table..

Looking at the somewhat cleared space I could make this work out easier if I moved the table father into the room and turned it 90 degrees. This plan would require that I load long sheets over the top of the beam and onto the spoil board, in effect loading it from the side..

Does anyone load their machine from the side and have you had any problems?

IF I place the table sideways I don't have to put in another set of door and may or may not build it as a one piece table. I have room to dolly the table into the room on it's side but I'm not sure how easy it will be to rotate it to it's feet.

Good question Steve. My thought without ever having done that is it sounds like a PITA. The Gantry would need to be moved out of the way and caution regarding the rails, motors, wiring. Not to mention the added height.
Happened to watch your YouTube video. Have fun with Doug! Don't blow him up!

That was a fiasco! I think he learned his lesson...

Back on Track!
 

After 10 years ( Have I won the longest build title yet???? ) Things are starting to happen!

I have decided to abandon the control system I built ten years ago and purchased an Acorn system :) The parts arrived last week.... https://youtu.be/teucjQEmr94 Well almost all the parts... The Pendant was missing in action but is now on it's way here ....

The control I built back then was also used on a Bridgeport Boss 5 machine for a couple of years. It was controlled by Mach3 and when I sold that mill the computer, but not the control box, went with it.

Frankly I just did not want to buy Mach3 and Mack4 has shown so little advancement that I think it's almost abandoned. Centroid seems to be much more stable and I decided to jump ship and buy an Acorn Board.

I plan on keeping everything in the box with exception of the mother board. I will probably start on that in a few weeks. I have to build some bee hive stands first :)

I have also settled on a plan for my rails..... I know it's a little thing but it has bugged me for the last ten years...My rails do NOT have parallel legs and it is just not acceptable to me... I've thought about using the skate to grind them flat but everyone said it was not a problem.... WELL it was to me so I am making them parallel with this..... :D

I've also decided to make the table a bolt together so I can move it in around and to other rooms of the shop if needed... I'm going to weld the legs and braces to each c channel rail and make three bolt in braces to connect the rails. That also means the spoilboard supports have to be bolted also but I'm considering making those a one piece assembly that can be unbolted and moved with the spoilboard in place... Still thinking about that... Hope it does not take another ten years :)

OH,,, I returned from my time with Doug on the Seeker... no I didn't blow up, but it was tense for a few minutes :eek: https://youtu.be/qPq5yOowuxM

Just received mine also Steve, the cnc12 on a touchscreen with the virtual control is nice. Mine isnt moving any motors yet either those are yet to be ordered but I think they will be clearpath, what was my first intention. I'm up and cutting direct drive with mach 3 and its just not consistently accurate enough, its definitely not a production machine with those electronics, I think it relies far too much on a old computer and db25 cord. I can run a drill tool path at four corners of the table with 1/8" drill bit at 60" x 119" and it will drop into those holes every time, but run a larger file that has lots of parts and there will be some that are +/- 1/32. Thats my experience so far. I could be exceeding the torque of the steppers but how would you know.

I have a little experience with my boss 5 losing steps and that was with the motors Bridgeport put on the machine... :( I have always had a nagging thought in the back of my mind... " I wonder if it is losing steps" Only way to tell is with a servo and feedback system.

I have a feeling that is where I will endup someday and that is what made me go with the Acorn, it can handle encoders and servos, all I need to replace are the motors :)

I started off with the belt drive system figuring I had a better chance of avoiding lost steps... We shall see :)