I have replicated that speed ceiling problem with an underpowered pc as well Gerald.
Have you tried running the speed test in Mach 3 to see if your PC is compliant?

Well, this is the second computer I have tried so far. The first one was older and weaker but seemed more stable as far as the test is concerned. The one I am using now is more powerful. There is 2G ram and the processor speed is 3GHz. Nonetheless, both computers seem to fail if what you say is true that my power suply should be ok. I am gonna try third computer tomorrow.

Can you give us your .xml setup file from Mach? I would like to check if you set the machine to run mm or inches, then to check the Motor Tuning for motor speed and acceleration.

Hey Gerald, I just returned from a trip to a shop. I couldnt wait till tomorrow. Tried different computer. The one I tried now was outstanding. It is what you say about the computer it cant be to slow or to fast. What a relief. The sound of the mtors moving so smooth. Before it was like shaving with blunt razor and now with that third mid range computer it is like heaven. Such a difference. Thanks a lot for advice. Will post a video on Youtube soon. I have settings in mach in mm and M1 module 36 teeth and 127.324 steps and 45000Hz kernel speed. Now I need to get a different PC.

....shaving with a blunt razor? I have forgotten about shaving over 30 years ago! :)

Gerald does not have TIME to shave...too busy helping and keeping this forum in top notch.;)

Gerald,

I continue to be amazed that you can diagnose all of these problems based on sketchy details from all the way around the globe. I chuckle every time. I just can't figure out how you know so much about everything.

I am pround to announce that we had first movement. There is a link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0bZV80Xmj4. I also tested proxies and they are working as well.

ha ha ha - is that you hiding behind the machine :D

congrats on the movement

Well Done Martin! Dust is just around the corner.

Hope so, the machine is to be dismantled and moved to a different location soon. That was me behind the machine. I was next to the box and the pc hoovering over E-stop just in case.

Congrats Martin. I'm envious of your water cooled spindle.

I havent tried it yet. At the moment I am redoing proximity switch holder for the MM.
I will try and connect spindle on friday hopefully.

I am back with some photos showing current progress. All mechanical parts are done. The spindle was turned on and checked for the first time. The cooling system is mounted on the car with the pump and the reservoir. The radiator as well rides on the car and if need be the fan can be added as well. I have received my first bits. I ordered two ballnose bits and one three flute and one two flute end mills. The remote push buttons on the MM are working fine. I plan to add one more button on the car zero routine. Unfortunately not enough space for input. THere is already Pause, Resume, Probe for tool height and Proxies. I got the board to be used for controlling spindle via mach as well. It is not that easy to connect it on that chinese VFD. Will post some more picturs soon and a video as well.
I noticed that when running a g-code with the machine turned on there is light jerk that can be seen. It happens while transition from one line of a g-code to the next one. Any ideas what might cause it to happen?

Have you cut anything yet? There is a serial number (#37) waiting . . . :)

Martin, Nice work. :)

No, not yet,. A bit afraid of that plunging and letting the machine take over the control. I think it is gonna take few more days before I can actually cut something. I need a bit more confidence with the machine to master it.

Hi Martin,

Very nice work, Make sure you Set Mach 3 to CV mode, then you'll have to work on your motor acceleration to get a nice smooth ride!

Will do, thanks a lot.

Martin, we started with a spring-loaded pen before we were brave enough to use a cutter.

First and hope the last bit down. I broke my first bit. It was 3mm ballnose that I broke. I set the machine for dry run just to try it with the bit in the spindle. While the g-code was running I decided not to turn the spindle on yet and that was mistake. The settings in Mach3 wasnt set right. I didnt mark Z axis in Homing/Limits configuration tab as reversed. As a result the bit plunged into material which wasnt supposed to happen if the setting was marked. Anyway I will post some photos tomorrow. There is so much to learn. I found also there is electromagnetic interference in the controll box. My proxies in the middle of the table react but actually they shouldnt. I checked with multimeter the relays and they showed reading as they were switched. It is kind a wierd that my MM runs smoother without CV setting. My other solid carbide bits do not perform very well either. I set vfd for 20000 rpm and was trying to cut solid soft wood at a slow feedrate and 3 mm a pass. There seem to be smoke visible. Maybe those settings programmed in vfd are not right. I have PD3 set for 400, PD4 set for 400, PD5 to 400 as well.

Bits burnt and bad marks on the wood as well

Congratulations for your first cuts!

My personal opinion regarding the marks is that your spindle or complete z-axis is not perfectly vertical, but as I said, it`s only an opinion. I guess here are a lot of people with more experience and will help you out with that.
Don`t give up, it`s already a great achievement!:)

Good luck.

Bye

Martin those look like HSS endmills, you should use carbide bits

Congratulations of the firsts cuts Martin!

See here Mach motor tuning

I think the guys are running with CV turned off.

I ordered the first three solid carbide bits from this site http://www.frezycnc.eu/solid-carbide-tools/. There are three bits in the picture and the first one on the left is supposed to be solid carbide. Thanks Guys anyway. I will try reconfiguring my vfd tomorrow. Maybe setting for speed is set wrong way.

The cutting will get better, once you have the speeds set up correctly. (My first guess is that you are cutting far too slow - slow speeds cause burning)

But, you must now get a serial number! I was away for a time, and I don't know what the next number should be - can someone else help here please?

Is it possible you a running in reverse?

I dont think it it possible. I have PD setting responsible for running counterclockwise set to 0. This setting forbids the spindle to turn left. I bet Gerald might be right. I need to change settings for speed.

And you have serial #39!

Update Builder's Log
 

Martin,

Congratulations on your Mechmate and Serial #39.:)

The Updated Builder's Log is here.

Please let me know the dimensions of your MechMate for the Builder's Log.

Also, please review your entry and let me know any changes you would like.

Thank you all for your input. Thank you Gerald for the serial number. I have the table size corresponding to 2800x2070 sheet of MDF. I ordered ferrite and EMI filter for the VFD and also a digital tachometer. I am prytty sure now that the spindle is spinning at the right rpm. As for the burning of the bits that was due to slow feed rate. So I think.

Dimensions added here.

Hello Martin

This is what I found, maybe it is of use for you.
It is a general guideline finding feed rates and maintaining tool life.

- Perfect Feed Rate
1. Start at the low end of the feed rates.
2. Increase the feed rate until:
a. The edge finish deteriorates.
b. Or the router bit risk breakage.
3. After one of the above happens, decrease
feed rate by 10% and reduce the RPM's
until the edge finish once again deteriorates.
THIS IS THE POINT OF MAXIMUM
PRODUCTIVITY AND BEST TOOL LIFE!

Make chips not dust!
1. Can you throw the chips or do they float in
the air?
2. To make chips not sawdust. You need to
increase the chipload by increasing the feed
rate or lowering the RPM's or using less flutes.
3. The larger the chip removed, the more heat
that is removed with it. This keeps the bit cool,
and increases tool life.

Hope you get your VFD working. I know I have a manual at work. I will try to post it here when I get to my office comp.

Bye
Claus

Thank you for the info Claus. It is the feed rate that is essential. I checked the spindle with a optical tachometer and it displayed near to 24000 round per minute. So far I have been cutting styrofoam will try the bits and the spindle on the wood with higher feed rate.

Hello Martin,

Did you find out what the problem is?
Just an idea, why don`t you try cutting with reduced spindle speed up to 8000 rpm.
This speed should be absolutely sufficient with a 2 flute upcut bit.

Are you controlling your VFD / Spindle with Mach3 or manually?

Greetings
Claus

Martin,

Congratulations on the serial number and cutting.

I personally think that 8000 rpm is too slow. The idea is you want to cut fast as mentioned to remove the chips. I have my Mach set to CV and I also have Stop CV on angles > 40 degrees but you need to determine what angle you want. This will give you square corners when you want them.

From my experience the cuts look like you bits are not squre to the table. I use solid surface material to check my alignment or a piece of hard wood. You need to adjust the Z.

Hello guys, I am controlling the VFD manually at the moment but I plan to have it controlled by Mach. I am waiting now for dust extractor to arrive. That CV setting is causing jerky moves of my machine. If CV is off the moves get better.

Martin,

Interesting about the CV. Thanks for trying.

Hi Mrtin
I am hapy to see your good job withe MM very nice one ..and i like to ask you where i can buy laser cut parts and other parts..i hope thats you can healp me
thank you
kostas