Thanks Sean. I'll probably build something if it still sags after I take out the links.

Having a problem with the new VFD. First off, the motor sounds really rough, at about 60 hz startup speed. Secondly the VFD keeps going into OL while Acceling. The VFD is rated at 5kw and I supposedly have a 3kw water cooled motor. I'd be willing to bet it is actually 3.8kw as it is one of the 100mm wide motors.

Anways, I set all the stuff right on the VFD, start it, and after a bit of accel, it Overloads and stalls out. Probably some stall setting on the VFD. Not sure.

It's a mitsubishi D700 VFD. Here is a link to the manual. Any ideas?
http://www.emcsolutions.com/ebay/man...700-manual.pdf

Thanks,
Chris

Check your Overload current setting.

I have the same VFD and got same frustrating overload current problem. my Spindle is also 3kw but air cooled. I managed to get it bypass the protection, reducing the acceleration/deceleration to a minimum. It's the opposite of what says in the manual, but it works. I have used it on some sheets of ply and mdf and I'm 100% happy. only the deceleration could be a little bit longer to be less forced.
I'm waiting for a rs-232/rs485 converter to get comms with my computer then I can use the Mitsubishi software configurator to further explorer other settings... and use MODBUS. For now it stays like that.
I'm at my daily job and can not tell you all my settings but from head and looking at the manual I believe the most relevant are:

pr7 - 0.1s
pr8 - 0.1s
pr22 - 200%
pr29 - 1

the rest is default or setting the accord to your voltage, max freq and limit current...

With this VFD we can automatic tune the motor but I did not play with it yet...

paulo

Thanks for the help with the VFD. What other settings do you have for it? Did you set it for 3kw, 220v? What did you set spindle frequency to?

My spindle was faulty, and it simply stopped running after about 2 mins. So I sent it back. I think the problem was within the spindle. I managed to get past all the overload protection but it still wouldn't work right. Sounded incredibly rough and then just stopped and wouldn't come back.

The seller has been really good though and sent me a new one right away.

Hopefully the next one will be ok.
Chris

Wow, that was totally fast. Kudos to Qiandingzhensatisfaction on Ebay for his support of his spindles. I sent him back the spindle Thursday and gave him the tracking number, he fedexed on friday for SAT delivery a new one arriving today out of his US warehouse. That had to cost at least $120 to send. What fantastic service really. I would highly recommend him for chinese spindle sales.

I forgot to add, I had also left good feedback for him prior to even checking the spindle, because I had accidentally let the time run out on the last spindle to leave any feedback. So in reality, he could've just let me burn and ebay would've not been able to do much from what I understand. But the guy really supported me.

So will be cutting shortly.

Chris

After check my settings:

pr0 - 0
pr7 - 0.5s
pr8 - 0.1s
pr22 - 200%
pr29 - 1

the rest is default or according your spindle and your electricity.

I'm using 3 phases of 120V at 50Hz which give 240V between phases. Then I limited the output current to 12A and output voltage to 200V. My max frequency is 300Hz and min is 120Hz.

If you want to know other setting just ask which ones...

It worked for me but I'm not satisfied with deceleration, it stops too fast and it looks to me it's a forced stop (any intent to decelerate in long time give me E.OC3 - Overcurrent trip during deceleration or stop).

If you know better settings with a smooth deceleration let me know.

paulo

Yeah, I noticed the same thing with deceleration compared to my ABB VFD, which doesn't brake the decel at all. There are options in P156 to turn off over current errors in deceleration or accel.

Hey Paulo, P250 set to 1000 will coast the motor to a stop!
CC

Thank you. Just tested it Ok. My p80 is set ar initial value 9999. P156 must be set to 0 I get errors. Today I got the rs232 converter. Now I"ll play with fr configurator... lets see

If my VFD keeps overloading and stopping, does that mean my Spindle is getting too hot or something? Overload protection is on for it but it is an electronic thermal overload circuit in the VFD. Not sure how it can sense anything. I'm running a pump that is pumping 268 gph through it. It doesn't even get barely warm before it trips in 1 min. Any ideas?

I could turn off protection but am reticent to do so.

Ok, I'm having a hard time setting up this VFD with this motor. What's happening is that when I set it up at first, and get basic settings, it tends to run right. Pulling about 2.8 amps at 33volts, this is at around 40hz. Just testing. When i get it up to 60 hz, the motor outputs a really high pitched noise and sounds totally wrong.

I can input some more settings which Paulo gave me and get the motor spinning past that, but then it pulls 20 amps at 120v. Not sure why. Perhaps it has something to do with my power.

My power may only be 208. Would this affect it? I am getting 217v between phases and it's possibly set to wye. I really don't want to risk burning the spindle. If anyone has a water cooled spindle, how does your spindle sound, really quite, whisper like, or hard? My initial setting sounds really really quiet.

It's really quite annoying... Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

Its very weird performance indeed. I don't use a Mitsubishi & am reluctant to read the manual.

Since the spindle actually turned, I am fairly sure your wiring is correct but no harm checking it again to be sure. You want to re-check color code of the wire pairs, the color code might be wrong.

While you are at it, its a good idea to go through the VFD setting a afresh. You might just find something.

Mine whispers like a humming bird, no vibration when no bits are attached.
You might want to ramp up the spindle slower.

Did you run the spindle up to 400Hz? or 100~400hz? for a brief period (few secods) ? It might be a spindle running in thingy.

Chris - as Ken says the water cooled spindles run very smoothly.

This link from Machmotion mentions an autotune sequence for the D700, have you tried that?
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...%2520Guide.pdf

Ross

Hey thanks guys,

As I figured, I think it is a problem with the power. The electrician may have hooked up the phasing wrong and so the VFD is only getting 120v somehow off the line. I can run the spindle below 60hz and it whispers but once it grabs too much power, it simply squeals and stalls out. I'll talk with the electrician today and try to sort it out.

I've gone through every setting in the VFD 10 times now and can't find a way past this. I've called the vfd company, no joy, everyone says the same thing.

Thanks,
Chris

Ok, I've figured this out guys. The spindle is supposed to be almost silent as I suspected. There was no power problem. It was parameter P72, PWM frequency. I changed it to 3 and it got rid of the squeal. Now all is operating fine and I'm amazed at how quiet this spindle it.

I was confused because the last spindle was so noisy in comparison. There must have been something wrong with the bearings in it or something because it is a night and day comparison. When I adjusted the PWM frequency, the noise disappeared and it runs nearly silent up to 400hz. What a trip.

Ok, so for anyone setting a mitsubishi VFD with a Chinese spindle up, don't set P80 up and don't auto tune.
Chris

good to hear.

Thanks for your help Paulo, and everyone, ken. Really appreciate it. Btw Paulo, hope u didn't set motor tuning on ur spindle. Or p80. The other settings are good though, but I kept motor load profile to constant torque.

Hey Guys,

Been cutting some set and all is working great with exception of a couple of minor details. I've looked all over but have not found anything pertaining to this so if someone knows where it would be, a link would be appreciated. For some reason, when my X motors are at full velocity setting of 1099 in per min and I get the machine booking at full speed, suddenly it's as if I've hit an e stop and the gantry stops dead in it's tracks. The X motors whine very loud and stop immediately. It's as if I am hitting something on th tracks, but there is nothing on the tracks to hit. I turned the X axis velocity down to around 700in per min, and it stopped but it would be interesting to know why that happens..

The next thing is that the X axis, for some strange reason is cutting at about 1/16th of an inch off in either direction while the Y axis is right on the money. It's no big deal for most stuff, but for cutting precision welding jigs it's a pain in the arse. My tubing channels end up about 3/32" to small for the tubing to fit in.

Apart from that, this machine is working beautifully. I'm trying to get mod bus started, but first hooking up the spindle to analogue on the board.

I'm full on into scenic production so what a whirlwind this has been!

Cheers,
Chris

Chris

Your motors are missing steps - that is what the sound is you are hearing.
What you have "hit" is the available torque at your rapid speed.
The motor no longer moves and after the magnetic connection between poles is overcome it gets into a run away and unrecoverable scenario.

Increasing the amps to the driver is one solution or as you have found reducing the rapid speed also works.
Set your driver to its minimum amps and you will find that the missed steps will come in much sooner.

Suggest you connect up a stepper and driver (off the machine) and play with the speed and acceleration and this sound should be easily reproduceable.

Ross

X Axis

Using Mach 3 1024 screenset go Alt F6 (Settings)
Axis Calibration - bottom left hand corner
Follow instructions.

Ross

PS - What is an inch again? :)

3 potatoes or 5 eastern brown snakes in the dark. ;)

Chris

Fixed or not?

Ross

Hey Ross,

I've not had a chance to try it yet, but I will tomorrow. I've put in the bigger resistors though and my motors are getting really hot. I can touch them but not for long before it is too hot. I'm using the PK296 b2a SG 7.2.

Cheers Chris

Ross

Chris, sounds like your motors are too hot... whatever motor you are using, the hottest/warmest the motor should go is "uncomfortably hot to hold but without fear of burning hands".

If your multimeter can read temperature, use it. You can tape the Type J lead straight to the motor to take the reading.

Emissivity with a laser thermometer or IR thermometer will cause inaccurate high or low readings if the setting in your device in not correct.

Some peoples hands are more calloused than others so they can take higher temperatures. So a palm test is not a very accurate testing method. Hot metal surface contact is about 10°F(5°C) as compared to liquid to start contact burns. Liquid is 120°F(49°C) But if it is 185°F (85°C) you will be burned without much trouble. We have over 20 furnaces that use 185°F(85°C) water to heat metal canisters to melt a byproduct. Each system has it own heater with type j thermometer. A simple contact with the forearm to these canisters will burn you on contact.

I'm right then, 85C & you get burnt & too hot a motor. Some how, very few here have temperature measuring equipment handy... I do have a IR thermometer, inaccurate measurement is way better than no measurement...

I would agree. You can get an inexpensive IR. The more expense ones allow you to set the emissivity. In a pinch, you can take a meat probe (Instant Read Pocket Thermometer) for meat and tape it to the motor at the hottest point of touch. Will be within 2% accuracy. This is an easy thing that everyone should check periodically.

I think he motor is ok. It gets hot when I run a facing program, but I can still hold it for about 5 seconds.

Anyhoo, I've been cutting like a madman. Haven't had a chance to post anything I've been sos swamped. Here are some panels I made. It's a mathematically driven pattern that I baked across 4x 4'x8' MDF panels, then routed a rounded edge to catch the light nicely. I painted them pearl metallic. They look great.

I've been trying to square the machine using the method on the X square to Y page. It's pretty good now but getting that last 1.5mm square across a 4'x10' area sure is a challenge. Any tips to make it go quicker? I've gone through a few squaring sheets. Does it make a difference using the extremely thin shims as I do have some of those? Is there another way to check the squareness without cutting 2 sheets?

Anyhoo, cutting has been fun and looking great! Spindle rocks!

Thanks for the support!
Chris.
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