Have you tried another computer? Happened to me already.

Hey guys, So I checked my parallel port, it was set to bi-directional, changed it to EPP, still no dice. Right now, I'm reinstalling a fresh version of windows XP and reinstalling mach3. If that doesn't work, I'll try and frankenstein another computer together to test that out. Thanks guys for the support so far, I'll let you know how it goes here in a few.

John,

What version of Mach are you using? It looks like you have a very old version.

Ok so, fresh install of mach3 directly from the website (I was using a copy I had downloaded in '07 when i started this shindig- Doh!) and no luck. I also tried it on another computer I had in the house, and made sure to verify the EPP state, and still nothing. In both cases, when i try and jog the x-axis, the step light on the board lights up, but nothing else, thats the only activity I have on the whole setup. no noise from the motor or anything at all.

I'm going to recheck my wiring, but I'm not entirely sure what to try next, any ideas?

Recap to this point: 1 motor and gecko wired up, to a pmdx 126, using a parallel cable. computer with fresh install of mach 3 and windows xp, latest of each. computer has parallel set to EPP and enabled. pins are set to the correct step and direction, port is set correctly. jogging settings are 3000 Steps, 750 Velocity and 80 on the acceleration for testing. power light is green on gecko. power light is lit on pmdx, steps light up when tested, but pin lights aren't lit and motor does nothing.

what are your output signal settings set at?

none of them are set? all are disabled and set at 0.

Sorry John, that was a stupid question as it doesn't have anything to do with this type of problem.:o

I do know one thing though, it could still be the computer, even though you tried it on another one. It happened to me on two separate occasions. For some reason mach3 will not work on certain computers. Anyway I hope you can resolve this issue and get cutting soon. It's just a matter of time till someone figures it out.:)

Good Luck

Don

Im pretty sure that my setup had the same problem with the comunication via the printer port. Everything still sound the same as what I went through. Is it possible to borrow a Smoothstepper just to test it out? I have a old Emachine T6410 computer.

Jas

I tested it out on a reasonably old, and then a reasonably new computer with the same results. Next step is to try and find a newer bios version and then maybe a different motor and gecko as maybe something is wrong with my wiring and maybe a whole new setup in will work. I wish I could get ahold of a smoothstepper around here but 95% of the people I tell about my project ask "what is a cnc machine?" so parts aren't too readily available for me to borrow :/ If all else fails I might have to fork over the money for one though.

I think Gerald nailed this back in post #38. Looking at your photos, you appear
to have a brown wire on DIR, wired to pin 8; red wire on STEP, wired to pin 9. However, your Mach screen has Step on pin 8 and Dir on pin 9.

Either flip the two wires (preferred), or change the Mach configuration. Also, you should be able to use the Test Modes shown in section 5.4 of the manual to prove that the PMDX and drives are working independent of the computer. Then move on to the computer.

Did your printer cable come from PMDX? Is it by-directional? Also I would like a screen shot of your control panel showing your LPT1 settings.

I don't know if I missed it, but are you using XP 64 or XP 32? In Win 7 Mach tech support really!! want me to use Win 7 32 bit, on my computer. Win 7 64 bit does not crash my computer as it is said it is supposed to and things do not work. I use Win 7 64 on most everything, unfortunate about the 32 bit requirement. I am assuming about same issue with XP 32 and 64 and I really do not know for certain. Others may.

Hey guys, sorry I've taken so long to reply, I had finals week hit me, and everything had to go on the backburner, but i'm back at it now. I've got some more parts in, cable carrier, pinions, and tool steel, should be almost done buying things. I also went out and got another computer to test my electronics with, as i found the one i had was far too old and out of shape for the job.

I've done some more tinkering over the last 24 hours with my electronics and still no turning (but also no smoke) and I've ruled out the computer being an issue. A big help was brad reminding me about the testing features of the PMDX. I haven't been able to get the motor turning with just the PMDX in test mode, so i know it hasn't been a computer issue. But unfortunately thats all I've determined. I've gone and triple checked my wiring, I've measured and received a correct voltage from the power supply to the gecko. I've tried measuring the ohms on my resistor, but I got a value of around 130K when its a 422K resistor, so I've identified that as a possible problem. I've swapped out drives, and motors, and still no dice. Any thoughts on this very frustrating problem?

Also to answer further questions, I'm using windows xp 32 bit, my parallel cable is bi-directional, and it is not a pmdx cable. I dont have a pic of the LPT1 settings yet cause the computer is not plugged in.

also to further clarify, I tested the PMDX in test mode, and the proper lights came on both the PMDX and the gecko, but when I pressed the test button, the motor did not move, although the light came on the PMDX saying steps were being sent.

I am interested also. How are the motors wired? Bi polar parallel, bi polar series, 1/2 coil? Is there continuity between the Gecko and the motor on all leads?

John, could you confirm that you've corrected the apparent wiring error identified in post #70 (and mentioned as a possibility in #38)?

my motors are wired bi-polar parallel. can you elaborate on the correct method to check for continuity between the gecko and the leads?

@bradm yellow is step and brown is dir on gecko. yellow is connected to 8, brown is connected to 9. 8 is step and 9 is direction. I think the wiring in the pictures is correct?

I would disconnect each wire at the gecko and at the stepper and use the continuity test feature on your volt meter (the tone), if it is a long run, get a jumper from one end and hook to the meter and touch the other end of the wire. You should get a tone if the wiring is OK. I do not think you will get a reliable result if you leave the stepper wired in. If you have plugs/connectors, make certain that they are fully engaged and or wired correctly. Also included is a wiring diagram from Keling to verify the connections. Good luck.

alright, did a little more testing, fresh motor and drive, no ferrules. connected and pressed the test button and got a response from the motor....which was just humming :/ i reversed the settings so that it would change step and direction pin and i got no sound at all. I'm a little excited because before, i got no sound, so at least i know something is being sent to the motors... not sure what to try next.

alright! so i have movement on a motor finally, although i'm very perturbed at the method which movement was obtained. basically, I removed the resistor, and the motor instantly started happily turning. I'm very scared of this as I assume a resistor is always needed with the gecko so once I tested it I turned it off. I've attached a picture of my resistors and a a link to the motor I am using. based on the formula 47*I / (7-I) and a value of I being 6.3, I found my resistor value to be 423, I had purchased the closest value to that of 422. What am I missing in this scenario, and should I be worried about running the gecko without a resistor?

http://kelinginc.net/KL34H280-45-8A.pdf
Attachment 12759

Electronics... Its always easy to get it right once you detect what is wrong... but trouble shooting is PITA... ;)

I should have caught the color codes from earlier pics.

That should be 420K ohms (or close to it) not 422 Ohm. You have cut off the current to your motor.

http://www.bpesolutions.com/atechnical/ResistorQV.pdf

From 203V Manual - Note the "K" Ohms noted in the formula. Also note the 6.3 will land between K and L on this chart from the 203V manual and that all of the resistors are "K" Ohms.


This input matches the G203V’s current output to the motor windings. The G203V will accommodate motor winding currents from
0 to 7A. Use the following equation to calculate the value, (in kilo-Ohms) of the current set resistor:
R (in kilo-ohms) = 47 * I / (7 – I) Use the nearest standard value 5% tolerance, 1/4W resistor for this setting.
Here are the current set resistor values for motor current in .5A increments. Round the appropriate answer to the nearest 5%
resistor value.
a. 1A – 7.8K
b. 1.5A – 12.8K
c. 2A – 18.8K
d. 2.5A – 26.1K
e. 3A – 35.25K
f. 3.5A – 47K
g. 4A – 62.67K
h. 4.5A – 84.6K
i. 5A – 117.5K
j. 5.5A – 172.33K
k. 6A – 282K
l. 6.5A – 611K
m. 7A – OPEN

Can you shoot us a good detailed pic of the top of your PMDX-126?

Jason

I made the same error. Reading Mike's input, I went over to check my resistors, no K, so I would have had the same problem and been wondering what was wrong. Thanks to all for such a great forum.

I have started shipping resistors with these same motors for both Half Coil and Parallel setups becuase of these issues.

Here you go Jason, still don't have mach 3 turning the motor yet, but will work on it today. the light for pin 9 i think it was, lights up when i apply steps under test mode and turns the motor, but when i try and control it through mach3 pin 9 does not light up, and no motor turning.

Attachment 12760

I think the thing to do now is go back to the standard setup now that the resistor issue has been identified. You should be able to run the motor in short tests without it overheating.

My JP4 is different, its in the on. and cant see JP3 but mine is off, which is strange because its to power the smoothsteper..lol

Ya, also what you have said happened to me. It would go out and I think I could here a relay trip. I was doing something else(which I cant remember) then all the lights would reset and come back on..then when I would try to move or jog it would trip and go out agian. But Im having a tuff time remembering what I did to fix it...it was something simple too...

Jason

Ok fired up my CNC computer. In motor outputs I have .
X Axis enabled Yes, Step Pin #3 Dir Pin #2. Dir Low No,Step low Yes, Step Port 1,Dir Port 1
Y axis enable yes, step Pin #5,Dir Pin #4, Dir Low no, step low yes,step port 1,dir port1
Z axis enable yes,step pin #7,Dir pin #6,dir low no,step low Yes,step port 1, dir port1
A Axis enable yes step pin #9,dir pin #8,dir low no, step low Yes,stepport 1 dir port 1

port set up and axis Kennel is 25000hz

this is to just get the motors turning for me