Thanks Chris. I have looked on that site, but the spares is not ONLINE yet. Will drop them an e-mail sometime.

Anybody know how to get that chuck off ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usC8unA5RiA

I had to check as I had only ever taken off the type that work with a chuck.
Should just come off holding the drill no need to put it in the vice - done it lots of times when attachments like jigsaws were the go for the early power drills.

Regards
Ross

Thanks Ross,

That video show it like it should be done. Problem is that the screw is so tight that I was not able to get it out yet. He mention that they are sometimes put in with Locktite. Problem is how do I break the locktite seal without applying too much heat on the thing...there are some plastic housing at the back.

You might try an impact driver, they are a "butchers tool" but sometimes that is what it takes. Make you own decision on the level of damage you inflict on the screw head before stopping and trying some other option, as it certainly is not a guarantee.

You might also try hammering (a hard sharp tap) the screw head with a screw driver, sometimes it seats the screw driver tip into the screw head a bit more and gives the thing a bit of a shock that loosens it.

Regards
Ross

Can you get a soldering iron on the screw to break the loctite?

Good idea Gerald. Took my wifes 100 w soldering iron that she uses for her glass work, left it in there until the chuck was nice and hot. Took the impact driver again, but still no luck. I think this screw's head is now a bit broken. Maybe the last resort is to drill the head off the bolt, then try and remove the chuck and then see if I can get it out.

you know that you have to turn it clockwise to get it out :)

Yes thanks Mike I mentioned it in post 967 already. ......Screw is RH and chuck is LH

I've changed several chucks on Milwuaukee and Dewalt drills and the screw that holds the chuck on is left handed and the chuck is right handed. I've never broken the screw, but they usually have lock tite on the threads. But remember, free advice is worth what you pay for it. :)

Thank's to all that tried to help. I tried again today...Right hand, left hand, middle hand....but she will not want to play with me.....:mad:

I was on my way to go and buy some plug cutters
Attachment 10124 that I needed to finish a job when I spoke to old Hennie. His words were ....is jy stupid....are you stupid. You have a machine that can cut plugs....all sizes in one.... I never thought about that.

So this afternoon I made myself 105 plugs x 12mm each and on a very slow speed it took me 24 minutes.....and it did not cost me a cent extra. Those plug cutters are very expensive. Now I can cut my plugs to suite my holes.:rolleyes:

Attachment 10125

This machine is a workshop all in one.

...absolutely, never really thought about doing it that way. Great idea.

When I made the bench for my friends wedding I borrowed some jigs from a friend. After that I sat down and did the drawings in V-Carve Pro. So this morning was D-day. Cut the pieces, pocket the sides where the slats go in and finished the chair this afternoon. This is held together with CAM-thingamajigs and bolts only. Planning to do it FLAT-PACK.

Attachment 10126

Attachment 10127

Here are those #THINGAMAJIGS that I used... What a learning curve again.

Attachment 10128 Attachment 10129 Attachment 10130

Kobus,
Man you make me jealous. I have a good mind to make a smaller MM just so that I can do some things.

Hi Marius, I sms'ed you yesterday. Was wondering if that contact of yours are still making and supplying cable chain. Let me know please as my old friend is finally getting things together by the looks of it.

Kobus,
My number changed, I will send you a PM.

Kobus,
Look at this post. His details are in there. I dont know if it is still current. I do have some chain designs that can be cut with your MM from 6mm plastic of sorts if you are wanting to go that route. I intend to cut the chain myself on the next build.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...0&postcount=48

Hope this helps.

Dis mos hoe dit moet gedoen word - bakgat, now maybe you must share the dxf's...:rolleyes:

Those thingamajigs are called cam and pin connectors.

Thanks Marius...I received your new number.

Hi Alan, I have to make small adjustments here and there. Things like the recess hole for that NUT I should add. At the moment I just peck drill a 6mm hole. Then afterwards, open it up manually to 10 or 12 mm depending on the nut size.

How much experience do you have with installing the Cam and Pin stuff. I will put up a picture later to explain my question about centre of cam hole. I did these with trail and error.

Alan or anybody that have worked with this stuff. What distance to do the CAM hole for a certain length. Thank's

Attachment 10135

Kobus,

These people can help: cabinet maker's paradise:

http://www.gelmar.co.za/images/Catal...tings/Cams.pdf

Kobus I will fax you the details I work with these send me your fax no then I will make copy`s and fax them.Phone Bob larson industries ( 011-795-1988 )speak to Ester.

Thank's Hennie. Scan and e-mail rather...same thing.

Well, today was the last of MY day at home. Tomorrow I must fit 5 new doors for the BOSS....hinges, locks, handles bla bla bla.

So this morning I cut the chair that Fabrice designed.....40 minutes later and a little more that 1/2 sheet ply and it hold my big body from the floor.

THE THINKER.....what to do NEXT...


Attachment 10138

Attachment 10139

The drilling distances and depths can vary depending on the components being used:

Drill Hole diam = 12 or 15mm depending on choice of housing (usually 15mm)

Drilling Depth = depending on choice of housing used for board thickness for 16mm board drill 12.5mm deep, for 22mm board drill 16.5mm deep

Drilling distance B = choice between 24mm, 34mm or 16mm (from hole centre to panel front edge) most common size is 34mm.

Bolt Drill hole = 5, 7 or 8mm diam depending on choice of connecting bolt.

So to answer your question above I would say 34mm.

Thanks Alan, yes I started at 32, but find it not working 100%. Wil go and try some scrap ar 34mm.

And ...there is a faint sound of blue machine screaming softly in the distance.... while the thinker things what is next.:D

Sometimes I sits and thinks...othertimes I just sits :p

Hey sharrap en gaan werk julle twee :rolleyes:

Faint sound ? Sounds like a pig being killed.

Alan, I tried 34 mm, but the little catch only starts to show, when I backup the screw 1/2 turn, then the cam engages and can be turned to tighten it. So I will try 33mm tomorrow.

Lekker om vir `n Baas te werk.

Kobus,

Have you seen this web site? Some nice digital wood joints.

http://www.flexiblestream.org/Digita...Joints-001.php

I think Hennie would like that one too! :)

Wow!, where do you guys get all this nice stuff from?

Heath have that one already that is the link where I got my joint from

Look what I found the weekend. It's old, it's dirty and needs some TLC. All the slides feel SOLID.

Does anybody know what make it is. It is about 600mm long. It needs a motor. Somebody modified it to take a v-belt. What would be my best option, small motor with VFD was my thought.

Attachment 10166

Attachment 10167

Attachment 10168

I liked, Kobus.

VFD is my option.

looks like a chinese 7x12 minilathe stripped of the electronics and the motor gears, you plan to use it as a 4th axis?

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

I would not use a VFD, because it cannot increase torque as the speed goes lower.

Thanks Pablo for the link.. No I have my 4th axis. This will be stand alone. Maybe I will CNC it later.

So what other options do I have ...small motor with LIGHT's DIMMER ?

IMHO, before you start spending money on it you should check how much it costs one of these in your market, in USA they go for around $500 or less and here in Argentina double that. I had one of these years ago, it used a KBIC-125 speed controller (or similar I dont recall the exact model)
These mini lathes usually go from 100 to 2500 RPM with the electronic speed controller.

Or to make things simple you can make it single speed with a 1450 rpm single phase motor, later you can add pulleys to get more range.

Check the photo (crappy lighting conditions sorry) I just took of my small cnc lathe, with this setup you can go from 200 to 2000 with 100rpm increments

Just to show that old Big Blue Brakpan is not always PLAYING. Today had to cut some kiddies chairs for a paying customer. I don't often use the full 2.4m X-axis, but today I was cutting OVER THERE..

Attachment 10190

In between cutting I also stripped the mini lathe and washed all the parts. Will put some new Hammertone paint on it tomorrow. Managed to get a new motor for R 750.00.

Then I started with my Rocking Chair. It is such a great succsess that my son don't want to get off it.....that is MY beer :p

I still need to attatch the arm rails and the bottom rail, but could not wait to show it. This thing is very stable and he could not flip it over. Thank's Fabrice....now we have to design an Adult version. but I did sit on it...it is SUPER strong.....and no glue.;)

Attachment 10191

Attachment 10192

I am still very happy with my UIM Stepper drivers, my MotionKing motors without Gearbox...super smooth contours all the way.