Gerry, Just wait for it, its coming (in mid April probably), ha ha :)

7°.....that's a nice summer day around here :p
here's a look at this morning situation :
:eek:

Attachment 14676

:p.....;)

Ouch...no thanks.

7°F = -14°C
We're even, lol.

Aaaa....true.....your in °F !
;)

There will not be Spring, only the unprepared move from Winter to Summer.

LOL....
Have we derailed this thread enough yet?

You could sum up my 4th axis project with that

If we ever see summer :eek:

Derailed....naaa.....some just got.....frozen :p...:D
R ;)

LOL. You are both funny.

Flickr fixed the problem so I will post it here finally.

This is cut right from the machine with only a stiff brush cleanup, no sanding. Total size was 16.25" x 10.875" of stain grade pine. File was 655k lines of code. Used Beckwith 1/8" tapered ballnose and detailed with 1/16" tapered ballnose and profile cut with 1/4" bit. I feel comfortable now to proceed with the next cutout. Have a 30" x 30" x 1.5" piece here to carve but was a little nervous after any hardware change. This will most likely be given away as is to whoever wants it at work.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/...1ea10036_c.jpg
Test Cut after PMDX-108 Input card installed

Nice detail on the tree and antlers.
I have a few Beckwith bits as well.
They cut very well.

I have been more than please with them

Pete....I have little experimentation in cnc sculpting !
You result looks very well done and intrigue me as, could you tell us more on what those tapper ball nose contributed vs a regular straight ball nose...aside of what I may assume...being more rigid and prone to brake !
tks

I'm not Pete, but I find the taper lets you reach deeper into a carving without fouling the details carved in a previous cut layer, if that makes sense.

Tapers also ten do be quite a bit longer than straight ballnose. You can a 1/16" tapered ballnose 1" long I think, where a 1/16" straight ballnose would only be 1/4" long.

Gerry is correct, the cutting length is longer as well as OAL, usually.

This has been fairly well answered here but I will try to contribute a little more. The taper angle of 3° is fluted the entire taper to the shank. This produces a stronger tool with an longer overall length. It prevents burning the work piece as well because you do not have a shank turning/rubbing the wood and burning it.

Touch Probe Update

The touch probe I built based on the designs from hmsc has proved to be precise and accurate. The plans did not have any compensation for fine tuning. I believe this was intentional and for the end user to make their own based on the mount. I fell back to using set screws with a V groove to allow to lock the position in from the side when the pressure is from set from the top with the opposing screws.

I did a quick alignment today to set it up. Within five minutes the probe is set to within 0.0004" error between to rotational checks at 90° and 270° and 0.0000" at rotational checks at 0° and 180°. I checked each side 5 times to record any error and each one stopped at the same readout every time.

Overall I am please with the outcome of the probe. It would not be accurate for metal work but more than accurate enough for wood working.

May I place my order Sir? :rolleyes:

Maybe :)

I am working on another sign but also have to watch the kids. So finishing a sign takes a lot of time for me. The kids like to play Chinese Checkers so I thought why not draw one up in Aspire. This is the rendered image of the wavefront obj that I exported from Aspire and rendered in Blender.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/...9ffa1c53_c.jpg
Chinese Checker Board Blender Rendered, on Flickr

The kids and the older kids will have a lot of fun with that. Very nice.

That is what I am hoping too. Thanks for the kind words.

Pete, beautiful board. have you tried blender cam? it's a WIP, but looks to be very promising.

No I haven't, but I will watch and see how it matures.

Just cut, no sanding or finishing yet.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2818/...27502af1_c.jpg
Just Cut Chinese Checkers , on Flickr

Very cool. What type of bit did you use?

Wow, very nice! Looking on ebay, I see boards going for over $100 and not near as nice as what you have done.

Darren,
I used many bits. 90 & 60 degree V bits, 1/4" & 1/2" round nose, ogee, 1/4" spiral upcut. All Freud and Onsrud bits.

DB,
The funny thing is I was looking for a nice board and saw the prices then I thought I have wood here, why don't I make one.