Yes it is.

But not understand the function. Alignment?

Thanks Gerald

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=143

Used first for safety - the proximity switch (silver colour) senses the hole and stops the movement

Can also be used for electronic alignment (home position)

Wow sorry man :o

Pre-Prime
 

That dirt!

This is the best I could clean. It is possible to apply the Prime ?

Or should I leave the steel cleaner?

...looks ready for primer to me!

Any more polishing on those pipes and they'd be ready for chrome plating.:D

looking good:)

Looks good. Shoot it with clear! :D

More than enough grinding, but have you got all the grease off? For me it is more important to wash the grease away with a solvent or a detergent.

Thanks Sean, Greg and Marc. :cool:

Gerald,
Use solvent applied with HVLP.

After tetroxide of lead (Pb3O4).

Then painted in BLUE :D

Yuri, spraying solvent and then using a lead paint would be forbidden in countries with strict environmental laws. That is why those countries export their solvents and lead paints to us where we are still allowed to use it.

Detergent
 

Message received and understood Master ;).

Here the law should not allow this application. So I will apply the extra degreasing and degreasing and "Fostatizante" (the latter on rail 76x38mm).

I did not find the translation for "fosfatizante" (composition: inorganic acids, moist, surfactant and a corrosion inhibitor - Corrosive)

All this, since the weldingr passing through painting and completion of the project is new to me. The guidance from you is essential. :o

An application of primer and one or two of paint? :confused:

Phosphate coating is good.

For your own experience, why not test some samples? Use pieces of scrap steel and paint them with the process of your choice. When everything is finished, see if you can chip or scrape the paint off. It should not be possible to remove the paint except by grinding, burning or chemicals.

The paint is very important where we attach the gear racks - because they use the paint to hold them to the MM.

I thought about using a phosphate solution but the directions involved rinsing the parts with water after wetting them down with the solution. Couldn't get my mind past pouring water on a fresh clean sandblasted surface.:confused:

Applied the phosphate and washed with water.

This is the correct color?

I don't use phosphating so I don't know the colour connected with it. To me it looks like there has been some water rust and that is good - there is no grease on there. I would put on the paint now.

Primer
 

:eek: I have to train more ;)

Hi Yuri,

Real interesting color. It also looks like you are working in a real cramped space. I thought it was hard to work in my small garage. It must be real tough for you.
:)

Yuri, you should not be doing spray painting inside a room like that! Is it not possible for you to go and do it outside somewhere?

The mess is only one of the problems. Normally the final paint makes a much bigger mess than the primer. That paint gets in everywhere and you will not be able to clean it all away.

The biggest danger is your health. You have shown a mask with filters in a picture - I hope that you are wearing it!

But, also be careful of EXPLOSION! That concentration of paint in the air will only need a small spark and then suddenly you will have a much bigger room . . . . :eek:

If you cannot move it outside, the best option is to paint by brush - not by spray.

gazebo's work well......right J.R.?:D

Several years ago my brother repainted cars. We learned from the local authority that if you paint outside there are no restrictions. No problem with buildup of fumes, and even over-spray is kept to a minimum. We still wear a respirator. It takes about 20 min to setup my cover (gazebo), and it makes everything so much easier. Greg you are sooooo right the gazebo works really good.

Pre-Paint
 

Greg_M, this color is the Primer (in Portuguese Zarcão). I wrote before that contains lead. Wrong. It has no lead or chromate. It contains titanium dioxide.
The space is bigger. I do like to leave things more difficult. ;)


Gerald thanks for the concern. With the mask did not feel any smell of Primer.
I smoke. I have to increase my insurance coverage. :eek:
In this time of year, it may rain at any time. It is not reliable.


JR thanks for the information.
As work alone is difficult.
His work is of high quality. You inspire my job but I do not have the same quality.
Here GuiaCNC Forum in Brazil say that I have two left hands.:rolleyes:

A bit of ink
 

Alignment.

Well, was not the blue that I wanted to ...

:eek:

More pics

Good progress!

Oi Yuri, tudo bem?

How do you plan to load sheets once the machine is finished? it seems the extremes are pretty near to the walls. Looking goood!

Ol@ Pablo,

Pretendo carregar o material pela lateral.

Laterally.

Inclination
 

This inclination is correct?

Perhaps the solution is:
1 - Using the disk grinding
2 - Add something to make the slope of "X" at 0º

Your solution to add something is correct.

Thanks Gerald :)

Is this normal?

What are the solutions?

My experience with our steel has been quite good, but we hear quite often of problems around the world. But, even if you leave it at 3 degrees with no correction, you will not see any difference in the final performance of your machine. The cutting quality will be as good, and the life as long, as a machine with 0 degrees. It is your choice of how much time and trouble to spend on correcting a "non-problem".

Yuri, te achei hein.....

Tá ficando bão isto aí hein...

Este detalhe aí, do material, ter este bendito ângulo, que também já me irritou, em materiais aqui do Brasil é normal, infelizmente.

Já fiz um trabalho em Córdoba, Argentina, em que precisei de uma viga desta, e lá ela era perfeita.

Paciência, mas nada que, naum possamos te socorrer.

Hehehehe, afinal você já deu seu "jeitinho brasileiro".

Parabéns, precisando de ajuda é só gritar.

Alexandre Alex - Salvador - Bahia - Brasil.

Thanks Gerald,

If you say it's all right, OK. :cool:

Guys,

This is Alex from Brasil (City of Salvador - Bahia State). He has helped a lot with plenty of tips to build MM.;)


Grande Alex,

Agora vou usar seus conhecimentos aqui no Forum da MM. Bem vindo e espero que você logo crie sua página, construindo uma MM.

Pferd
 

Hi Yuri,
You gave me a good idea of clamping and cutting the rails!:cool:
I do not have anything straight and long at home. I think I will get my table ready first and do it like you. I will have to think of assembling it outside first to do the grinding.

Smile 4A - 95 Volts
 

My electronics.

What you see is how bought. Just turn on the engines. Easy.

Brazilian project. Name of the "drive" Smile 4A / 95 volts :eek::eek::eek::eek: :)

The engines are 70Kgf.cm (approximately)

Although the engines are very large and with reduction 3,6:1 let's see what this drive :) can do.

9 fans? you had better hold your hat on! :D

This is going to be interesting . . . . tell us more about the 3.6:1 reduction . . . . .

The reduction belt and spindle follow the Project for Fabio Gilii - Atibaia - Brasil

Yes, the Smile 4A is a project fantastic. I hope this helps to overcome problems with the slowness of this motors...

Asked to Rudolf Waller to come up here and explain the project's Smile 4A to us.

Gantry
 

Thanks guys ;)

http://br.youtube.com/watch?v=rbcGQItDfnA