M6 10 100 A Drawing Correction Needed?
 

In the laser cut kit I purchased, I also received the plates for building the skate. When I started to go through the plans, it appears there is a minor missing item (see red boxes on attached image) - the "spacer bolt". The test version appears to have the "spacer bolts":

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...1194372844.jpg

It's not a major issue - I just though it might throw some people off if they just looked at the drawings.

Also, there was some discussion of adding handles to this "spacer bolt" to better support and angle the grinder - was there any final decision?

Much thanks!
david

In talking with Rick from Superior Bearings, I was refering to the double-vee bearings as 12mm metric (bore) and he mentioned they were not metric - that his supplier sells an actual metric version of the same bearing. I find this odd since .472440" IS 12mm. He must be right since GW2 is .3750 (9.52mm). Though GW4 is .5906 which is 15.001239mm. So, technically they are not 12mm but in reality they are. Odd...

http://www.superiorbearing.com/image...els_chart3.jpg

Parts required to assemble skate M6 10 100 A
 

There is not a parts list for building the rail skate M610100A so I did my best to make one up:

Bosch Grinder (US): 1347A
Bearings: 8 of 6001 Bearing (12mm ID, 28mm OD, 8mm Width (www.superiorbearing.com part 6001-2RS)
Eccentric Bushings: 4 of M1 20 210 T (www.superiorbearing.com part B3X)
Bearing Posts: 4 of 5/16" x 2" long - Pan/Flat head
Bearing Posts: 4 of 5/16" nuts
Bearing Posts: 4 of 5/16" washers
Plate bindings: 2 of 5/16" bolts
Plate bindings: 4 of 5/16" washers
Plate bindings: 2 of 5/16" nuts
Angle Adjustment: 2 of 5/16" x 3" full body thread
Angle Adjustment: 6 of 5/16" nuts
Angle Adjustment: 8 of 5/16" washers
Rail Rider Height Adjustment: 2 of 1/2" x 1 1/2" Stainless Steel Bolt (requires drill/tap hole to 1/2")
Rail Rider Height Adjustment: 2 of 1/2" nuts

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...1194372830.jpg

David,

Are you sure the Bosch 1347A will work? We bought the 1710 because the 1375A didn't work with the skate. The 1710 has a 7.5 amp motor.
Thanks for the lists!


http://www.toolking.com/category/pow...--45-inch.aspx

David was probably (mis)lead by:

Justin, are you saying that the 1347A had a different gearhead that would not fit the lasered skate? How well did the 1710 fit? Realise that I have never done it myself . . .

Is there a 1710 model? I only see 1810.

I believe we checked the 1375A it could have been the 1375-01. It had a 6Amp motor and didn't fit lasered skate. If you use my link and go to page 2 you will see the 1710 this is the one we purchased (fit perfectly). We did not check the 1347A. Just wanted to make sure the 1347A did work.

Thanks for the update! I'll update my "master" BOM.

smreish - Changed rail height to 1.25" from 1.10"?
 

Sean -

You mentioned that you changed your rail height to 1.25" instead of the 1.10" (28mm) in the plans. Did you change this because you could get angle in 2x1.25"? Having already tried cutting the rail down and failing, it seems the best solution is to just use rail that is already the right height - which here is 2x1.25" (they don't have 2.5"x1" or 2.5"x1.25"), then grinding it down from there. Of course this changes a few other things but it seems other than the motors dropping down, nothing major. Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks,
david

The motors drop down and the stop blocks inside the rails need to get taller.

The secret to cutting the rail down is a quality cutting disk. See posts #87 to #90 in this thread. The equivalent disk in the USA appears to be EDP #63157 on this page

Handle Suggestion
 

I've come up with a solution that seems to solve two problems at once - the grinding down of the 1/2" bolt on the ends of the skate that ride on top of the rail and a way to hold the skate down and level.

Start by taking a 1/2"-13 bolt and smoothing the head (if it has any part numbers, grade markings, etc) flat. This head will then ride on top of the rail you are grinding. Take the skate an drill and tap for a 1/2"-13 in the large holes on the ends/edges of the skate (your skate is 1/4" thick plate right?). Insert the bolt with the head facing down. This then leaves a stud sticking up. Put a 1/2"-13 nut on this to form a "jam nut". Then you should still have about 3/4" of threaded bolt sticking up. Order two of these: 57455K76 from McMaster-Carr. Problems solved. Note - this should require a little grinding of the top plate to make room for the handles.

Here is a sample photo (less the handles):

Good solution.
I my beta version - before the laser cut profiles - I tried this arrangement.
The head on the adjustment bolt sometimes cleared. I found that the eccentrics when shifted all the way towards grinding centerline there was interference. I am glad it works for you!
Good solution.
Sean

I need info from anyone that has it. How much does the bolt that rides the rail during grinding protrude from the bottom of the plate, from (start) to finish?

Has anyone verified if either the
Bosch
1375A (6.0 Amp)
1347A (6.0 Amp) grinders will fit the skate? I am trying to find one here that will work. Just wondering if someone is using one of these part numbers.

thanks

Drawing M6 10 115 Rev A was tailored for Bosch grinders, but folk modified that for other brands of grinder. The Rev B version of that drawing is now more general pupose. I don't think it is critical to get Bosch grinders per se. But I do think it is important to get a fairly high powered grinder because we have had a couple of reports of burnt out grinders.

Hi Heath, can't help you with the Bosch grinders as I haven't used either of those model numbers but I know for a fact that the recent skate drawings (Not sure of the specific version) also fit the Milwaukee 1648 8.5A grinder perfectly.
(Probably the same gearhead mfg for both...)

just my $0.02 (USD) :-)

Where can i find the latest skate-drawings. The files on the first page are deleted.

Tailgunner,

The skate drawings are the last drawings in the last PDF of the drawings that you download. M6 10 100 through 10 20 456.

Hope that helps and that is what you are looking for.

The link for the last pdf file is here

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...9&d=1215014708

The laser cut profiles which have the profiles for the skate parts are here.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...6&d=1214853734

Food for thought:

Gerald,

The only problem that I see is as the disk wears, the cutting depth will decrease and the wear surfaces will not be the same height along the length of the rail.

Tony

For a light final grinding pass, the disk wear is practically zero. That applies to all grinding operations, eg. surface grinders, knife grinders, cylindrical grinders, etc.

remove gearbox screws?
 

I've been reading all the posts on the angle grinding as thats the bit thats got me most worried about starting my build. I grabbed my dads grinder to see if it will fit on the skate. It looks like it wont. Its an old Makita...
Attachment 4227

I thought the skate attached to the equivalent of the 3 screws that held on the safety guard. So then i went down to the local hardware store here and had a look at a few there.
But then i re-read this:
So do I understand now the skate attaches to the 4 screws that hold the shaft bearing? So do you remove these screws then attach the skate with longer screws? Is there any issue comprimising the grinder doing this? (will it void my warranty if i buy a new one?)

So do I understand now the skate attaches to the 4 screws that hold the shaft bearing? Yes

So do you remove these screws then attach the skate with longer screws? Yes

Is there any issue comprimising the grinder doing this? (will it void my warranty if i buy a new one?) Your warranty will be voided if they find out that you have removed the screws. It is not as if you are doing open-heart surgery to the grinder, but you certainly would be using the grinder in a manner it was not designed for.

Matt just go on, I had to do it in the same manner. Also i was unable to fix my grinder to the small fixing dia on the original skate plate so i had to bore them and cut the end to enable my grinder to sit. I did a small ring washer with a PCD holes of the grinder and screwed them. No problem till the end of the grinding. Lot of R&D is not required just keep going you will learn in a few minutes. Love to see you grinding soon :)

I need someone to look at this drawing to see if my modifications will work or interfere with the workings of the skate. My idea is to use 2 bearings like Joe is shipping with the skate (now we need 10 instead of 8). Cut a length of 12mm rod 1" long insert it through the bearing, then spot weld the ends of the rod to the top of the plate. This will leave 1/16" of bearing protruding under the plate to ride the rail. Now all adjustments will need to be made by adjusting the upper plate in and out on the lower plate.
I also have some ideas about fine adjusting the plate, but I would like to know first if the modifications will even work.

I haven't decided yet on how I am going to grind my rails. With the skate or other guiding method.
I think this idea of yours will work. It will eliminating the damage to the riding bolt.
What did you had in mind for adjusting the height, J.R.?

Johan it will be easy, we will just adjust the top plate more toward the center.

I need help identifying the purpose of the 6 holes circled. Thanks

If you look at Sean's pics in earlier posts in this thread, you will see a pair of "all-thread" rods lying at 45 degrees to the base of the skate. They are for fine tuning the 45 degree angle when bevel grinding.

The remaining pair of holes (out of the 6 marked above) are a place to screw on handles.

Hi JR,
My boss left me alone last week so that I could enjoy my coffee during my lunch times. I was playing a bit with your new idea for the skate.:) Hope it it is ok?;)

Attachment 4914

Attachment 4915

Attachment 4916

Attachment 4917

Attachment 4918

The existing plates are shown as per dxfs and I only removed the piece for the existing bolt - height adjustment.
It seems that the best position for the new bearing shaft center could be at the center of the bottom plate.
Only one bolt is shown in position for the bolting the two plates.
The two plates might have to be altered to allow for more adjustment towards the centre.
What do you think?

We could put a notch into the skate ends to accommodate the roller bearings. . . . . or the bolt, that is relatively simple and doesn't remove any functionality we have now.

However, that aspect of the skate (sliding bolt head vs roller) is not the highest concern for me. I would rather make a mod that stops the glazing of the face of the grind disk, ie. to make the grinder "attack" the rail at a more aggressive angle. This could involve swivelling the upper plate instead of a straight left to right adjustment.

A snag with the left/right/swivel adjustment is to get a fine control (that we have with the rubbing bolt head now)

Johan, that looks good, only one issue - on image 3 I see the lower bearing sets are set at different heights, this will cause problems when turning the skate around to do the inside, its best to have both sides set to the same height. I know that as you drew it would give the best support but everytime you turn around you would have to change bearing positions.

When grinding the bevel, you do one side, turn the skate around and do the other side, when it moves up and down without making anymore sparks, the skate is adjusted for more "bite" then the process repeated again and again and again...etc

The skate's "grip" or "pinch" on the vertical part of the rail will also be firmer if the roller pairs are opposite each other. ie. set at the same height.

Thanks Gerald and Alan. That make sense.
I received a quote for R45 per bearing. To buy the 8 to 10 bearings for grinding only seems to be expensive. I do not have a long flat surface on the other hand to grind like Hennie did his.

Your'e being ripped off, those bearings should cost no more than R8.00 - R10.00 each, find another supplier (Bearing Man or Bearing Distributors are two I can think of)

Thanks Alan. I will phone around.

Alan, some feed back on those bearings. One of the well known bearing manufacture - suppliers gave me a price of R11.55. Bearingman was the expensive one.
It is the old Zululand way of doing business again. If it is not a shelve item that someone use a lot then they charge 3 to 5 times the price.
The only time that I wish I lived in the city! :)
I was just lucky that the other supplier had some left over from a large order.

Johan I don't know how much trouble it is to redraw this thing (by the way it looks great) but here are some more mods. It is a DXF file so change the ext. from TXT back to DXF. Thanks

Not to much work JR. Geee did I say that! One will never hear words like that from a draughtsman!:D Please don't tell my boss!