Russell,
You caught my other thinking. :) Yep, I did that quick 3d this morning for Marc's benefit. I didn't show all the internal bracing-nor plumbing. Yes, you could suck the walls in pretty quickly if built "as-shown". NOTE: drawings are for reference only- refer to disclaimer on main page of MechMate.com

You might have noticed that I hack a lot of these off-topic discussions out into their own threads when the traffic dies down. I can't move them if someone is busy replying, otherwise his reply is left stranded.

Gerald,
I ran across your vacuum hold down on the shopbot forum last night....sexy! Simple and easy to use! Keeping it simple....
If the notation was correct, it was 2001 when you installed that plumbing. 6 years is a good testament.

Smreish.
It seems that you bolted cross bars with taper washer. For dismentling and easy transfers ? Then why legs of table welded ? Should not be the cross bars welded or table legs bolted ?
Actually I was thinking of bolting all these together for ease of transfers.

PK,
The MM table I am fabricating disassembles in 12 parts. 2 sides, 2 ends and 8 cross members.

This was specifically done as a "proof of concept" due to shipping requirements here in the US. For a reasonable shipping price, I can send a complete table on a single standard 48" wide x 12' long (super pallet) standard freight.

I want to make sure that what I build can be easily shipped. The legs are welded to the main members for 2 reasons.

1. So I can use the cross members to "adjust parallel" on the table before the spoil board is attached.
2. The leg and stretcher assembly is a very STIFF section once complete. This will ensure that the 8" channel and subsequent rail attached to it remain straight and true. I would hate to have a shipper bend my main beams because someone can't drive a forklift properly!

I know your new to the MM club, after further study of the drawings you will begin to understand the true gestalt of this great design.
Sean

How you are going to disassamble ends while they seems to be welded (arrows)
Isn't it possible to build a frame (yellow lined) and bolt (red) them with legs. This box arrangement is very rigid. For ease of dismentling (though we do not do it often). The door of my converted garage is only 3' wide :)
The spoil board can also be bolted with cross bars and can be lifted as one ?
Your decision of welding main members is correct.
With bolted sections don't we need very even floor ?
You are right I have to read/study/understand a lot, which I am doing right now before start.

PK,
This dwg should clear it up.
If you look closely at the picture, I added a 50mmx50mm angle iron section to the bottom of the cross members for bolt attachment.
The end frames are smaller and lighter. Keeping it simple, lighter and less steel. Which means less $$$$.

Sean

Sean,
Oh yes, I magnified the image and doubt cleared, of course this is not welded as I prefer and rigid like box type and <$$$$$.
Thanks.

fun time skating!
 

I built the Beta version of the skate from Gerald's plans.

DO NOT USE the BETA drawing files if you have them - A few modifications are necessary.

I have to say - it works really well.
I did have to do a few tweaks, but they were minor. Gerald, I will have to send you the dwg file I updated, the hole centers need a little adjusting.

The good.

- easy to fabricate
- Instead of laser cutting, I just printed the dxf file full size and spray glued it to a piece of "COLD" rolled 1/4" plate and worked from it.
- drilled all the holes
- cut along the lines with a band saw.
- after all machining and dressing, I parted the plate on the bend line and then welded back together @ 45 degree angle. Simple, quick...
- Welding hardened the plate which made re-drilling a couple of holes REALLY hard. (I guess I shouldn't have quenched it to be in a hurry:)
- adjusting nut/rod assembly aft of the grinder is amazing. Super easy to set the grind angle. Bravo.

In the photo's below, I haven't even adjusted the grind angle yet and it's almost dead on perfect from the assembly setup.

The challenges.

- the eccentric bolts from Superior are 12mm - not 1/2" as indicated. Thus, I had a bearing problem that I ordered from VXB. If you order your bearings, make certain that you get 12mm ID - NOT 1/2" To correct this I had to make up a .030 flanged bearing sleeve. Not fun, but not a hurdle either.
- Brass bolts for height adjustment....they wore down after 1 pass and were sticky to move on. Changed to Hardened Stainless Steel.....zippie skippy! Yahoo.....worked like a champ!
- I don't have a bosch grinder like Gerald, but the home depot Ryobi AG402 has the same bolt circle as the bosch. To use the Ryobi, you must enlarge the clearance hole to a slightly larger diameter and add 1/4" standoffs to the frame for the plate to bolt down securely. All in all, easy change.
- have to add a guard. It's really easy to want to grab the grinder body to push with. Glove's and the proper safety gear was a blessing today.

I have 2 really nice handles that will go in the holes just below the adjusting rod. This will keep my hands on centerline. I will post photo's of it with the rail grind later in the week.


The pictures tell the rest of the story.

Picture no.3 . . . . . never in my life have I seen such a collection of screws, nuts and washers! :D:D
(Wouldn't say this is one of my prettiest designs, but rates high on function.)

Sean, glad to hear we are heading in the right direction. I can't believe I got those hole centers wrong while the ones for the long screws actually worked out :o

Is there enough space to remove the disk? Somebody will assemble the whole skate before they put the disk on.

The hole can be enlarged for the larger grinder, but I think to leave surplus metal at the back for each user to trim to his own grinder.

Before someone asks, the unused holes in the top pic are for when grinding the height of the rail down......when the grinder is rigged horizontal to the table

The correct bearings for the wheels on the eccentrics are 6001-2RSR

Gerald,
I have already transfered the hole pattern on the front to the "moving bed" for the cutting down sequence. I knew what they were for the moment I saw them....like the trash can thread you had started a few month's ago!

My craftsmanship on the band saw was a little shaky! I didn't have the correct saw tooth arrangement and I was forced to be a little aggressive in my cuts! That plate looks I had it for lunch:)

I'll try removing the disk soon and let you know.
This one's a winner. I have added the Bosch layout with the adjusted holes to the laser part list. If you have any further corrections, I will add them too.
Sean

Took me a while to figure out the reference to "trash can" . . . . . . . aaha! the background of these pics! :)

A safe(ish) "handle" could be formed by enlarging the upper plate and bending its lip up. I havn't got the feel of the device, so I don't know quite where one has a tendency to grab it.

Hardened stainless screws are a bit exotic for the average DIY guy. Would standard allen cap screws do? (Allen caps are a good bit harder than normal screws).

Further discussion on the grinder moved to:

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=479

Hey Sean, just checking to see how the progress is going. You only have 2 weeks until your deadline. Hope its all going good for you. Josh

The day job has slowed progress a little this week. I still think I can make Dec 1st. The base of table is fully welded. Rails are almost ready to be ground now that I have dialed the grinding skate in. I have to admit, setting the grind angle and depth with Gerald's skate is a piece of cake. It only took me about 15-20 minutes to fully adjust and check the runout with a dial gauge. That's better than most manual machine shop mills!

I most likely will need that long holiday weekend to work all the bugs and details out without any interruption from the rest of my shop crew. So, keep your fingers crossed.

I can relate to your day job issue. Between the day job and the wife having me build a new vanity for the bath I think I've got the DTs/shakes from not being able to work on my machine.:eek:

Good luck making your deadline.

What were your plans for the placement of your control box?

Stick it on the wall next to the machine like Gerald's. It's a perfect place and keeps it fairly away from the dust fall-off. Interestingly enough I visited my old Multicam4896 yesterday. It's cabinet is on the end, under the machine. The dust has begun (again) to destroy the stepper cards. That location is good for about 1 card replacement every year! I guess good for the Multicam service rep...bad for the owner. Thus, I like up and out of the way. I don't feel like buying new gecko's every year.

Point taken.:) On the wall it goes.

Thanks Sean

MultiCam's position is good for shipping a pre-assembled and tested machine from the factory, and also for guys who have 5 MultiCams in a shed with no walls nearby. I think us DIY'ers have a slightly different perspective. :)

I've been careful to incorporate everything Gerald and Mike Richards have told me because I want a machine that is as bulletproof as possible. That's also why I love this design. It's industrial quality. All my visitors have asked how heavy it is so I just tell them to try to pick it up. No one but my son has been able to get one of the legs off the ground. He'll be handy to have around when I get ready to move it out of the garage.:)

Got Blue?
 

The shop degreased and painted the Mamba today. They even bondo'd up the ends for me so they are nice and smooth.....I'll thank them later after I crash into the end chasing a broken bit!

It's nice to see some parts of the process happen without me actually doing it! :)

Hey, that looks familiar. :)

(The nearest cross-support; you might want to turn it around for looks)

Gerald,
Revision 2 will be a turn about. If you remember, that pipe welds at about a 7 degree angle. I had to "stretch" to make that weld sound and keep the end frame removable. Thus, the end frames are "handed". The Next table I will change that 2.5 x 2.5 angle to channel for easier welding and better vertical alignment.
Hey Doug....that eagle eye in SAB catches my stuff too! :)

Beautiful Sean. I'm anxiously watching your progress.

Sean, I am not talking of the support with the pipe frame under - Look at the nearest (to camera) support ;)

SAB? That is South African Breweries (the guys who own Miller beer). We are commonly known as SA. However, we are "officially" known as ZA when we put it on vehicles (cars, trucks, aircraft). Call-signs for SA registered ships and planes start Z. And our currency is abbreviated ZAR (for South African Rands). Strangely enough, this Z has nothing to do with all the Z's in Africa (Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania, Mozambique, Azania). . . . . it comes from the Dutch "Zuid-Afrika". . . . . unless the other Z's also come from Dutch?)

...right! Cross member, not support. Got it...Yep - shouldn't post late in the evening! But, Guess what - I am really glad you caught that because now I realize I put all the cross members back during reassembly the wrong direction. All the open faces of the c-channel should face centerline - not away. Good Catch. When all else fails - look at the drawings. (apologies for the slight of abbreviation - my world geography and nomenclature is lacking) heck, I live in the south. Which in the USA is an entire separate continent from the rest of the world anyway:D

Looking good Sean. I am eager to be able to come over for a up close view.

For everyone else, I am fortunate to live about 20 mins away from Sean's shop and he has be kind to offer me his help in building my MM. He is fortunate to have a very large area that he can use to build his MM.

Good Good Study Day Day Up

Hey Sean, you havent updated in awhile. Should be working on you vacuum table by now:)

Russell,
Well, I was sidelined for the past 10 days with work, work and more work. Thus, today is my first day back at doing anything. I spent the day setting up the workbench to cut and grind rails. Additionally, I set up my backup drill press with my new :) tapping head. Now all those holes will go a little quicker! Thanks for checking in....Now I hope to be cutting by Christmas with the recent interruption. Sean

Its always better to be work busy. If you own your own company that means more money coming in and if you are just a employee that means job security.

It also means that things get put to the back burner. I wish that I could offer to come up and help but I am in the same boat as you. With all the holidays the work load doesnt get lighter and if you want the time off you need to get the work done faster. Sorta a catch 22 becuase they espect the same pace after the holidays to.

I will keep watching and whatever you do dont rush. I always seem to put out poor quality when I get anxious or tired of a job.

Blue Box is wired - weighs as much as the kitchen sink
 

The much anticipated kitchen table project is mostly complete.
I have to put the temporary plugs on the steppers and I am ready for a test run. Hopefully I will free up some time later this week to iron out all the bugs. All you electronic experts be nice! I haven't wired in a few years:rolleyes:
Attachment 651Attachment 652Attachment 653

I like the blue.... looks good. I'll stop in next week.

Sean...
Looks GOOD!

BTW: Is that an aluminum plate in the back, or did it come with a steel one?

Bill, I ordered it with a powder coated white steel back plane. It taps 6-32 very nicely! :) I personally like the steel back planes - they are cheaper and don't warp as much when you really start torquing heavy components down.
If your at all wondering what goes in the holes...
- left side under the twist-lock flanged recptacles is the 220/40A in.
- right side is the 9 core control cable to the table button boxes.
- PMDX cable is marked, but not drilled yet until I am really ready to commit on it's final location based on computer placement in the shop.
- the little black item on the right above the 4-pin XLR field is the 1A fuse for the Estop circuit. I wanted to be able to service this fuse without opening the cabinet.
- lights on front panel are "router/spindle" active & "dust collector" active.

Wow!! I'm not posting pictures of my junk anymore. I don't want my work compared with yours. It's gorgeous.

I'll side with you Doug. I think the standards have been set as high as the moon. Only select few will be able to reach. Bravo Sean!!:)

I have a question about the xlr connectors you used. What I recall from reading through the forum the connections from the Gecko's to the motors is very critical. Any interruption can cause a blown Gecko and possibly the motor as well. XLR connectors are not a very reliable connection as anybody in the sound industry knows they can on occasion cause noise. Additionally they are only designed to carry a very small voltage/current. I believe that the contacts are only rated to 1.5A/125vac. While I love the idea… do you think that using these will cause any issues?

Nice wiring job. :) I hope to aspire to that look for my controller enclosure in a few weeks. It's a lot to figure out at the moment though.

That's a nice big blue box! (b³) :)

One smallish comment; the door interlock switch should be further away from the door hinge, if possible.

Very nice attention to detail - even have the ground wire across the hinge! :)

Nice going Sean. very neat.

I also share Gregs concern regarding the XLR connectors, they are not electrically reliable.

XLR connectors are apparently made by various producers these days - there is probably a quality difference from one manufacturer to the next. I am sure that high-quality XLR connectors must be available.