Trying to get the E chains laid out....is it normal for them to extend out past the end of the main x beam (and the end of the gantry) with they machine is at its furthest position?
I mean that the loop of the E chain is what is past the table end.
Mark

Mine does, whether that is normal or not???? I'm pretty sure it is...

Yes, That is normal.
You will probably have about 8-10" past depending on your service loop.

Thanks Tom and Sean....I couldn't really tell from any pictures that I found.
Moving forward!
Mark

I have E chains placed, all looks good. Anything to consider regarding the wire shelf portion that leads the wire going into the chains? I have seen some people use two"pipes" on the Y axis. On the X is it a good idea to have it enclosed, to offer protection?
Thanks
Mark

Enclosed just helps with the dust and cleaning of machine.

Thanks Sean, It must seem like a lot of silly questions....but I appreciate your input!
Mark

Open support also helps with dust as it can fall trough ( unless you make sure have a sealed dust proof enclosure like a control box, small dust will still travel in all kinds of places). It all depends on how you look at it. I look for efficiency when posed with these questions, which is the quickest to clean option ? I blow my machines with compressed air anyway every now and then, and then all dust will fall trough, with an enclosed box you will have to open it, and if it becomes more difficult to get the dust out, you will just blow it in deeper.

Thanks Fox!
That is what I like about discussing things with others that have built or even just planning the build. Always good to get ideas and input from others in my book!
I am sure I will be coming up with some more questions (stupid and otherwise) and I tackle the "electric" side of the build!
Mark

If anyone would be so kind as to have a look and make sure that I am on the right track, it would be greatly appreciated!

The setup that I have;
Motor; Kelinginc.com KL34H280-45-8A, Specs.(I plan to wire in Unipolar) 4.5 A, 0.71 ohms, 2.2mH, 8 wire NEMA 34
Drives; Gecko 203V
BoB, PMDX-126
Spur Gear, 25T (Direct drive, however I will be implementing 3:1 or 4:1 belt reduction ASAP).

As I understand the power supply choices; (I am planning to build my own PS)

24*√2.2=36 (Conservative Route)
32*√2.2=48 (Gecko Recommendation)
38*√2.2=56 (Gerald’s Recommendation)

The resulting figures (36,48,56) are VDC. As I look at the toroid transformer (looking at the Antek products), the listing will be for VAC? So that with a 40VAC, I would expect to get 56VDC after rectification?
(40*1.4=56)
For the VA, my motors at 4.5A peak (4 motors) would give me a max amperage draw of 18 amps. Using the 2/3 rule for input amperage to the Gecko’s, I am looking at 12amps max for the input .
(12*56=672VA).

So my questions (assuming that the above understandings are correct) are;
1. Is the listing for the transformers in VAC and the multiplier of 1.4 the expected VDC output?
2. Would a 600VA be sufficient or would I need to go up to the 800VA (Antek does not offer a 700VA)
3. The schematic for the transformer has 40V twice. Do I need to wire this in parallel or series to get the full VA?
4. Any opinions on the number of teeth on the spur gear 20T, 25T or 30T? (Again, this will be direct drive for a short period of time, until the addition of the belt reduction, so my main goal would be for the long term, using it with the belt reduction).
5. Any opinions on the belt reduction, 3:1 versus 4:1

Thanks in advance!
Mark

1. its a good approximation. you are not wrong.
2. IMHO, 300VA is enuf power for most MM. 600VA should do the job. even though its better to have more VA in a transformer, but there is always a limit, I always try to keep them smaller than 1 horse power, I'm comfrotable with 1/2~3/4 hp .
3. parallel.
4. 20T for direct drive. pinions are amongst the cheapest parts in the built.
5. Either will do. 3:1 is easier to implement.

hope this helps.

I'm doing 24t direct for now, going to 30t with 3.6:1 real soon, my set-up is different 70vac 1100watts, 72 was recommended, I went just under. Steppers - Longs Motors 34HS5850 parallel

Thank you Tom and Ken!
I think I may have irritated some people with my questions (sometimes I must ask the same question until I am comfortable that I am doing the correct way, but we all learn in different ways). A big part for me that wasn't "clicking" (and perhaps posting will help others) was that many postings just say "V" for volts, but not designating AC or DC. So ordering the transformer for a 56VDC system, I needed a 40VAC transformer. Perhaps that will help others that are not electrical engineers? At any rate, I have ordered my last electrical components. Hope to be one step closer to a cutting MM!
Thanks again
Mark

Any thoughts on the capacitor and rectifiers?
For the capacitors, I was going to use (3) 10,000uF 100VDC wired in parallel.
For the rectifier, I was going to use Bridge Rectifier, 400V, 35A, Lug Leads
I will use 12G wire with crimp on connectors.
Thanks
Mark

Sounds all good.

I've been running the "roadrunner" mach sample to help me tune and tighten the machine and find that the 24t runs ok but shows up as kind of rough in the cuts which turned out to be attributed to spur clearance of the ycar, the shoulder of the spur was riding on the ycar causing it not to seat 100%. All I did was move the spur inward toward the center of the car, but it goes to show how close the tolerances can be. The 30t seems real common and apparently rolls smoother in public opinion.

Thanks Tom
No info on capacitors or rectifiers :D
Glad you were able to fix your problem and it didn't cost you any more $
Mark

Mark you should be good on those choices.

Thanks Tom...trying to get my orders in before the weekend.
Started building this 13 months ago...now I am worried about getting the order in before the weekend...go figure :rolleyes:
Thanks again
Mark

I know what you mean, I did the same thing...many times. I just wanted to move along quickly only to find I couldn't keep up with the orders anyway:rolleyes:

Yeah, I don't know if it is normal with a MechMate build...but my UPS guy has a restraining order against me, I can no longer chase the truck down my driveway and I must remain 20' away from the driver until he unloads my items :D
Mark

Who signs for it? Does he set the pad down on the ground and slowly backs away?

Yeah, you tackle one delivery person and you get a reputation??
But he had a box of Gecko drives!
Not sure what drives you used on your build (or what others thought), but I was shocked at the size of the 203V. For some reason, I thought they would be bigger. When I got the box, I even asked "Is there a second box"? "Maybe, they sent a partial order"?

Another question on the power supply. The transformer puts out the "main" voltage for the motors, but also supplies 12v and 18v. I assume that these will be output as AC voltage?
Is that correct or does it need to be rectified to DC for use with relays, etc.?
Thanks
Mark

It would be ac voltage without a rectifier. My power supply has a couple of capacitors, an ic (a regulator I guess) and a small bridge rectifier.

Looks like 2 1000uF 35V capacitors wired in parallel and a 2A bridge rectifier is what Antek sells as an add on module for a 24v system. Do you think that would be ok for 18v and 12v? One module for each voltage.
Mark

Sound about right to me.

Well the PS is done and working well! That's the good news.
I have hooked up the "Kitchen Project". The output voltage of the PS is correct at 55.4VDC. The LED for the drive (Gecko 203V) is on. I also hear the motor "power on" and become rigid (Kelinginc 8 wire, wired Unipolar). The BoB (PMDX-126) tests ok (this is the board only test, apply power and the correct LED's light and go out as expected). However, when I have everything hooked up (PS, drive, motor and BoB) and use the on board test (which should start and stop the motor) I get the LED on the E Stop to light. The board ships with a jumper on the E Stop to ground (which is in place and I buzzed for continuity). All jumpers and DIP switches are factory set ( I think that puts it in Normal Mode). I am at a loss on this issue? If anyone has any input or ideas, I would appreciate it!
If you need any other information, please let me know.
Thanks
Mark

Print a copy of the pmdx126 manual, read thoroughly, read thoroughly again, Follow the instructions for the normal test mode and run several tests, then step by step change the set-up to at least a starting point at which you will have basic real operation. Make a serious attempt at documenting a schematic. Once on the machine tweak to your liking.

Yes have manual.
Have been reading for 2 weeks.
In normal test mode.
Have tried to run on board test many times and changed to other terminals on the BoB.
But no motor movement...just a red LED for E Stop?
Just not sure what problem could be.
Mark

Do you have the jumper still on the estop? If you connect a Normally Closed Estop button to the board or just use the jumper wire should be fine. The estop is triggered by the open circuit. Also check to see if the status LED is flashing any code (like 3 short flashes,short pause, 3 long flashes), if there it is flashing look up the code and make corrections. If no flashes then its your Estop circuit.

Yes, I still have their jumper in place. That is what's odd. I don't have any E stop switch or wiring...just their jumper? No code flashes, as I get an immediate E stop fault. Then the BoB resets with no faults, until I press test again...then same thing.?

Been there, IMHO, its RFI/EMI playing their trickery. Unfortunately, I neither have solution nor explanation for this occurrence.
It never fail to happen whenever LPT BOB of any kind is wired for E-stop feed, its almost always trip if de-bounce is not provided, even if it doesn't show immediately, it will eventually.
I avoid E-stop feed to the BOB if I can help it. Even though its theoretical correct thing to do; Its just too much hassle...

*ps, this applies to Mach 3, Linuxcnc is less of a problem.

I am not sure I understood all of that?
I am doing this on the bench (no motors on the machine yet). So my wires are only 12" long (and are not shielded, as I read you don't need them to be for the kitchen project...perhaps that is not correct?). Should I use shielded wires? If so,use them on the phase wires from the motor? (Currently using the wires from the motor directly into drive). Or shield the step, dir, common ? How do you not use the BoB for a E circuit?
Also, planning on using Mach3...but again at this point no computer..just the on board BoB test.
Thanks
Mark

Forgot to add...I don't know what you mean by de-bounce?

If you are not E-stop feed, then you don't have to worry about this.
Why fix when there are no proplems. :)

If we can't figure it out you can always call PMDX and talk to Steve. He is excellent at helping you understand what the devise should be doing and how to get there. Before you do that though let's look at what you've got set up now.

What are the DIP sw's set at now? And what pins are the stepper(s) connected to?

You nailed it Tom...DIP settings. I thought I had them set, but my notes were wrong. Spent a good 12 hours over the weekend. Spent 2 mins. on the phone with PMDX/Steve today...and Ihave a working kitchen project. Big thanks to Steve at PMDX, great customer service!.
Thanks for the help here too!
Mark

I thought so.

That almost sounds like I told you so :D
Is the first thing you to when you wake up is check the MM forum?
Just noticed the 4:30 am time. What ever the time...I appreciate it!

No, just had a path of resolution in mind, first was the dip switches. Early bird gets the coffee :)