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Brian, have you looked at drawing 10 70 115 C ?
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Gerald, that's the drawing I'm referring to in my questions/post. Sorry if I was unclear about it.
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I don't think I get your questions then. Does this help?:
Took that drawing and deleted the stuff that is surplus for you. Can you give links to the data sheets of your rotary switch and contactor? I can guess which they are, but it is dangerous to guess in this area. Some closer photos of the switch and contactor side-by-side would also be useful. I could try and sketch in the wires on the photo. |
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Thanks Gerald, I drew this up very quickly a little while back. The documentation on the rotary was brief to say the least, just how to assemble it, worthless since any random person could do that. :D No real "schematic". The relay contactor has a brief one as well, I attached the appropriate files. Thanks Gerald.
My questions stem around the contactor, and rotary. Power comes into rotary, then to estops on/offbutton and contactor, I listed how I believe they should be wired above but was just confirming before I did so. I'm pretty sure I'm right but it's a lot of power better to get a second opinion. I just wanted to know if I can assume your drawing (appreciate you posting a revised one minus a few things I'm not dealing with right now) is how I listed mine above. If you need I will draft it in autocad so you can see clearly where I believe things should go between AC IN and those components. :cool: |
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I would do it this way, but I am not an electrician: Two rules are being followed: - Components are clipped to rail with writing up straight (not upside down) - Components are fed from the top. From L to T. |
Gerald, thanks you have definitely cleared a few things up with my end. Appreciate you taking the time to do so. The rest should be pretty easy, following your single phase drawing.
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Gerald, when you say lamp is that the lamp on for the on off buttons?
What is the coil? |
Mark, read those descriptions against the diagram shown in post #4 of this thread.
The "lamp" is on the front of the control box door. The coil is the part of the contactor. (solenoid) |
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Gerald, I'm pretty much getting there, about to harness up and wire the final wires to the buttons on the door. Only part that has me a bit confused is what this is on the contactor.. I circled it so you can see. Is that just any other terminal on the relay contactor or something special? The coil is obvious, my contactor schematic highlights it but doesnt for this one. I'm assuming its just the next terminal I haven't used yet (again going from L to T as always). Thanks appreciate the help.
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Brian that is an auxiliary set of contacts. which normally has a much lower current rating than the main L ---> T contacts. I can see a pair on your photo marked 21 / 22, but that is a NC pair (Normally Closed). You are looking for NO (Normally Open Pair) and they seem to be just below the 21/22 pair?
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Gerald, sweet news. I fired it up after finishing. I will neaten up the wires a bit on the door later (as soon as I knew they would even work.) Even to my lack of confidence it turned out that it was as simple as your drawing showed. It powered up, through the rotary disconnect. The "on" button turned on the magnetic relay (it clicked!) and the lamp is illuminated. Power to the PMDX board is hot, as it is apparent through the green led(s). However my geckos and heatsink fan under them are not. My wires on my fans aren't marked or colored so it was a 50/50 shot at which would be? Maybe doesn't matter polarity wise. Will try switching those now. Any tips/advice on using a multimeter to check receiving power? Things to be careful with? I bought a good digital one, my only hopes are that I don't zap myself and that's about it. I will imagine that I can narrow down the problem pretty easy but any advice is appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far, almost there Gerald! Photo to come.
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