Mcmaster Carr shipping is FAST! product looks great. Rack and pinion and cable carrier. Well packed. And got the table steel today.. :D

Jas

What would be a ideal computer to use for the MM, not too pricie but will handle anything I throw at it.. I want to be able to use Rhinocad,Aspire,3D,2D, Mach3. No internet! I would also like to gut the thing on useless software. I have had allot of trouble free luck with all my Dells.

Jason


also received all the laser cut parts the other day. Thanks Mike.

I think you could get HP DC7100, add some RAM and be fine to use it.
They appeared some time ago in batches here on sales in Europe maybe in the USA also.
Case is heavy weight champion and the power supply is extraordinary, cooling is perfect although they use 3.0HT Intel prescott which gets a bit hotter than new c2d or i-family processors.
I have one and used it as main computer, also with Mach for testing screens and other settings, not on production machine.
Also had one IBM Thinkcentre and stay away from that as I tested one and it gave me headache trying to find the reason for some glitches on rapids.

I don't like the idea of doing my CAD drawing & working on the CAM in a pile of wood dust... Hence an isolated & dedicated PC for my MM, nothing other than the OS & the motion control software. which is Ubuntu & EMC2.

I was looking at a new Dell 560, and either have my local computer guy or I do a minimal OS install, custom order it all ready as wanted. I have one already and it performs great. I just have no experience with Mach3 and giving it the plenty of power to run glitch free. Also the CAD on it will be just for emergencies not the main work station. The 32 bit is a pain.

Jason

Starting the electrics
 

Can anyone tell me if this is correct, starting BASIC.

Jason

Its 220 also.

Im sorry about such a dumb question but im having a tuff time wrapping my head around everything for this build with my own lifes BS.

Jason

If I'm seeing this correctly, then at the bottom left, the leftmost switch is the NO to 'start' and the right switch is the NC to 'stop'.

It looks correct -> IF the main contactor coil is a 220V coil.

Presumably, not shown is the power infeed to the safety switch in the middle at the bottom.

Its 220 power from wall(not seen wired)...... to the big on /off, red/yellow turn switch..... to the contactor with the red"O" green "l" push buttom switch to activate it..... to the toroid trans. does that help clearify?

Jason

Jason,

My only advice is to start using some wire management. As the box starts to fill up those few extra inches here and there are really going to annoy you and get in the way for other wire routing. They could also cause you problems later down the road with noise. (Note: Example is the AC lines next to the Breakout Board.)

This just just me but wire nuts are a huge no no. I have seen to many come loose and the wires will start to arc and melt everything around it. I am not saying what you have done is wrong just something I wouldn't do.;)

Welcome to the forum and happy building.

This isnt the finished product but a dry fit. I have totally revamped the whole thing. No wire nuts got it. thanks. Im going to be painting the back plate. This is just kinda a kitchen table setup.


thank you
Jason

Please do practice electrical safety. Even though its a dry fit. You still has a MechMate to complete! :)

Yes, I wired my own house. Im just dont want to fry anything when I hit the main power. If I were to wire everything 110v I wouldnt have any questions. But im trying to wire as much 220v as I can for better use of electricity.
Im at the PMDX-126 and trying to wire it 220v but there is only 2 connecters(J8)with no markings on J8 to indicate ++ or +-, and I have 2 hots and a 1 neutral, and is it safe to wire it from the "T" side of the contactor. If I run two hots to the PMDX and no ground well without a ground the getting shock factor is there??? Or should I just keep it simple and 110v the PMDX ad stop messing with trying to 220 everything I can.

Jason

You probably should do what ever you feel most comfortable with. I dont think having 220v for you power into the BOB will have any advantages. You can still run 220 into the box then split it up into 2 circuits, One for the router and the other for everything else.

You have two choices for the PMDX-126; You can jumper it for 110v, and then wire one hot and one neutral to J8 (polarity doesn't matter). Or you can jumper it for 220v and wire both hots to J8. The PMDX instructions indicate that there is no safety ground connection required (Section 10.5).

In terms of powering the PMDX-126 from the L or T side of the contactor, it depends on what behavior you want. If you wire from the T side, the BOB won't be active until you fire up the drivers; on the L side the BOB is active as soon as you turn on the main power.

One reason you might want to keep the BOB active is if you have a VFD / spindle combination. Because you don't want to shutdown a VFD while in operation, you may also want to keep the control signals (from the BOB) up during an EStop. It probably doesn't matter much for a router setup.

THe E-Stop function is for safety and should kill the machine (And the router). The RB01 kit has 3 buttons one of which is stop that can be wired into the BOB for Software stops. So I think any down stream electrical piece in the cabinet (Including passing power to the inputs of the VFD) should come on the down stream (T) side of the contactor. This way you have the master on off switch on the dial and if needed the E-stop circuit to kill the whole machine if needed , including the router. If a controlled stop is needed press the stop button. I tried to find a "Pause" label but could not find one for the RB01 kit.

Excellent now the learning curve is greating better, The 2 hot leads to J8. The rest Im good on.... THANKK YOUUUU folks.

Jason

Are there any examples of a setup with a PMDX-126 and a PMDX-133 wired up complete as a comparison. There isnt much mentioned about J11-J13 on the PMDX-133.

Thank you
Jason

All you should have as far as wiring is the long ribbon cable from the 126 to the 1st 133 and then from 133 to 133 board. The 2 short ribbon cables are for the Smooth Stepper Wiring.

Then nothing on the J11,J12,J13?

"Motor Current Connectors"

Section 3.5 in the pmdx-133 manual.

Current Limit Resistors - Search that and also read the 203V Manual.

270K should cover BiPollar Parallel config

Thanks, I recap tonight everything.

Thanks
Jason

Recap
 

Hello,

This is what I have going so far on the electrical side.

Antek PS-5n48r12(wired 220v) = 48V, 10.5a
PMDX 126(220v)
PMDX 133 daisy chained to G203V Geckos.
Keling Tech motors KL34H280-45-8A wired Bipolar parellel

Now the questions start....I would need a 430K resistor to get to 6.3amps?

And is my supply to low...looks more like a 20 amp power sup would be better.

a 270K would be too low.?.

Searching this forum isnt helping much

Tug on my rope...lost again.
Jas

and a 3:1 reduction

ooppps
Jas

I don't use Gecko stuff, so no help in that, but do you really need 6.3A ? Especially with a 3:1 reduction.
From what I see here & what I have, for most cases(Unless you pack up lots of extra weight on the car... ), 3A is ample to move things around. Disregard of the power supply voltage. . If I remember correctly, no one actually use 4A or above... please correct me if I've mistaken.

BTW, my car is heavier then most because of my Z-axis mechanism.

Instead of loosing hair over the 6.5A set up, You can start tuning with 3A limit then move up if it is not adequate; It is better for your electronics' longevity & your insomnia problem :)

Edit: I assume you are talking about setting current limit of the individual drivers.
If you question your overall current requirements, your 48V 10.4A is 504 VA which is more than the de-facto 300VA transformer.

Thank you, explanations help allot.

...links to confused peoples to links to more compounded confusion to links just confuse me more, reminds me of a teacher I had and I asked how to spell something and her reply was always "look it up". I hated that teacher..lol

Jas

This forum do not advocate spoon feeding, you need to look up before asking meaningful questions (which you did)...
Teachers can be too busy at times too :)

Your PS is plenty based on how the motors run in the machine. Go to the main forum page and look in the chapters if your having trouble getting the searches to give you info. Read the stickies in each chapter.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/index.php

Also look at the top of the 203V Gecko. The max resistor before not using one at all is 270K. Also keep in mind this is a current limit resistor for the Gecko Drive and not for the power supply.

Many people are confused about the current limit resistors used on the G203v. The formula to find the correct resistance is: 47 X Amps / (7 - Amps) = resistor (in thousands), so 47 X 6.3 / (7 - 6.3) = 423K. 6.1A needs a 318K resistor and 6A needs a 282K resistor. As you approach 7A, the resistance goes up quickly.

I would use the closest standard resistor to 280K.

Thank you Richards, I actually had to go outside the forum for help:

Hello Jason,

Your motors call for 6.3 amperes when operated in parallel
mode. The G203V needs a 423K ohm resistor to set 6.3 amperes
as the coil current. The closest standard 5% value is 430K ohms
and I would recommend using a 430K ohm, 1/4 watt resistor.

The formula is 47*I/(7-I) where I is the current in amperes
and the result is resistor value in K ohms.

The power supply you have lists is significantly under sized.
The normal recommendation for a power supply is to have between
1/2 to 2/3 of the current rating of the motor be available from
the power supply. In your case this would point to a 20 ampere
supply.

Do not be afraid to run your motors at lower current. It will
produce less torque, but will not harm them. Just select a
lower value resistor.

Regards,
Steve
PMDX


Not looking for hand outs just a "clear uniform explanation". :-) I have looked through the chapter over and over, the contradiction throw me off track. Ill get there eventually.

Thank You Guys
Jas

Power is power, Disregard of voltage or current combination,, when your motor draws 6.3A, fat 48V, you will be at 300W!!! The numbers says your PSU is grossly under-sized, but before you come to a conclusion, you need to know in reality, ALL motors including stepper motors won't pull more power then it needs to move. With stepper motor, only in static mode, i.e. not moving, the driver will churn out full current to hold the motor shaft in position.

It takes less then 3A individual motors to move & hold. I'm running at 60~65 Vdc which says below 180~200W per motor at its peak power,I even have 1/2 full current with my direct drive... more than enough to stay put like an anchor! Mind you, mine is still a direct drive which need more torque to move & stop.
I would go lower for cooler motor but 3A is the lowest setting my drivers allows...

Don't take my word for it, dig through the forum & you will see this pattern with other MMs as well.

BTW, you are not alone in such confusion, I was there once :)

Play it safe, set the current to 3A for a starter & move up if its absolutely necessary..

Sent you a PM

I stand corrected about the resistor selection. It is covered in the 203 manual on page 3. I still believe that how this machine runs the 5N transformer is more than enough to support these motors. Also keep in mind these resistors LIMIT the current draw to the motors. So if you did go with the 270k (Or the 282K) that would limit your current to 6A, derating the motors a small amount. This of course can be adjusted for pushing the motor harder. You can also wire these motors half coil and that draw is then 4.5A per motor changing the resistor of course and also lowering the overall current draw on the power supply. That is another reason I like this motor (KL34H280-45-8A) http://www.kelinginc.net/KL34H280-45-8A.pdf Even half coil it has plenty of power to run the machine, especially if using belt drives. This motor gives a good cross section of uses as both a direct drive motor and a belt drive motor.

http://www.geckodrive.com/images/fck...V-7-MANUAL.pdf

TERMINAL 11 Current Set
Connect the current set resistor to this terminal
TERMINAL 12 Current Set
Connect the other end of the current set resistor to this terminal

This input matches the G203V’s current output to the motor windings. The G203V will accommodate motor winding currents from
0 to 7A. Use the following equation to calculate the value, (in kilo-Ohms) of the current set resistor:
R (in kilo-ohms) = 47 * I / (7 – I) Use the nearest standard value 5% tolerance, 1/4W resistor for this setting.

Here are the current set resistor values for motor current in .5A increments.

Round the appropriate answer to the nearest 5%
resistor value.

a. 1A – 7.8K
b. 1.5A – 12.8K
c. 2A – 18.8K
d. 2.5A – 26.1K
e. 3A – 35.25K
f. 3.5A – 47K
g. 4A – 62.67K
h. 4.5A – 84.6K
i. 5A – 117.5K
j. 5.5A – 172.33K
k. 6A – 282K
l. 6.5A – 611K
m. 7A – OPEN

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:

HEATSINKING: The G203V needs heatsinking for current settings greater than 3 amps. The case temperature (measured on the
bottom plate) should not exceed 70 degrees C, and for best life should be kept at 50C degrees or less. Use heatsink compound
between the G203V and your heatsink.
CAUTION! Current settings above 3A without a heatsink may result in the G203V entering thermal shutdown.
AUTO CURRENT REDUCTION: The G203V reduces motor phase current to 71% of the set current value 1 second after the last
step pulse is sent. The G203V also changes to a special recirculating current mode to nearly eliminate motor heating.

The 4.5 A number can be explained here.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...5&postcount=24

Does anyone have a similar setup as Im running to know what kind of performance it has in parallel vs series vs half?

"4-wire, 6-wire and 8-wire motor may be used. If 6-wire motors are used, they may be connected in half winding or full winding.
This is equivalent to an 8-wire motor connected in parallel or series. If a motor is connected in series or full winding, the motor’s phase current rating is half of its parallel or unipolar rating. The choice depends on the high-speed performance required; a
parallel-connected motor will provide twice the power of a series-connected motor at the same power supply voltage." Gecko.

This is allot like wiring speakers in a car.

Jason

Parallel would produce twice the power and the power sup would need to feed X2 the power, basically it thinks it pushing 2 motors( --,++)...Where as series wiring fools the power supply into thinking its just 1 motor(- +- +)...?... And half is just half the coils being used.(2 of the 4 coils)..

Am I getting closer..lol.

Jason

As for the amps if I have 5 motors at full power I would need 30 and that where I think he is getting that from, just matching the numbers,not application. It may seem a little under but we will see.


Jas

You really cant run all motors at full power at the same time. As you change directions motors speed up or slow down. This happens all the time. And in 1 second after the last step is sent the Gecko derates the current to 71% reducing the current load even more.

Earth calling Jason....
That happens only in the theoretical end-of-the-world scenario or Jupeter... On earth, 300VA is enough for MM.

Anyway, feel free to ultra over-size everything & anything as long as it makes you happy, the power is all yours & yours only.

Cheers

Well now Ken - That 5N PS is my idea :). Jason is just trying to understand the power needs and (as well all go through) get his head around what the electrics are really doing. The cool thing here is to realize that math and the real world sometimes conflict.