Hi all.

In the waterjet industry is used as anticolision device (The ring at the

low end of the shaft in the pictures.) that works as 360º limit

switch and high control that is not the problem in my proyect because

y have a manual Z axis.

The question is if this could be build with a omnidirectional switch (picture #2)

What are your coments.

I not sure I get the need for the anti collision. What are you in danger of colliding with ? Also, don't feel like you have to be an expert in electronics. If you have a general sense of what it is doing, you will have those a-ha moments along the way. I built my MM in this manner, and with the great help from Metalhead, I bumbled my way to a great machine that is an absolute work horse.

Hi Kart.

I made this last post because i am not clear if i am missinig some obvius detail.

The use of the anticollision in waterjets is due to the sheets holding placing heavy

metal pieces over it. And nozzles are about 80 $.

On the other hand, it might make sense the use of just a single anticolission

instead of 4 limit switches although do not allow homming opportunities.

Did you received the 20 May PM.

The use of limit switches has had it's share of debate on the board, but I don't use limit switches and neither does Gerald from what I understand. I have the switches installed, but never hooked them up because after using the table with out them, I just didn't see the need. I put hard stops at either end so the gantry couldn't run off on to the floor. I think you will find this to be like a new car. You want to put all these precautions on so it doesn't get scratched, but once you start driving for a while its not so important. You might be able to rig something like a joystick for your anti collision, so if it hits something and goes off center it would pause.

Hi all.

I am searching for building a computer exclusively for running Mach 3 through

paralel port.

I am planing the use of an AMD Sempron 145 2,8 Ghz but have doubts

about the motherboard

There are available in my local market these two Asus models.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3/M4N68TM_LE_V2/ and

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD...us/M5A78LM_LX/

If being desirable, I could buy a Parallel Port Interface Card.

Would appreciate coments about with one could have better performance.

Thanks.

Kart. That makes things simplest.

Thanks again.

Hey Guillermo, do you have a cheapo computer lying around? they are more then adequate for running mach3 exclusively. I have a computer I bought for 50 dollars off of ebay, I think its a 2 ghz with 512 MB of RAM and it runs my machine just fine. Older computers always have the parallel port and they run perfectly for Mach3.

Don't worry, Mach3 can run perfectly with a P4 with 512MB ram, so anything younger than that will do just fine..

Well I think it would not be difficult to make a collision protection cage, you just need 4 microswitch (water protected) and a cage, you conect them in series to an input of your BOB and configure mach3 to stop if the circuit is closed. In any case I think it's an optional that using yor CNC you will find not necessary (I am one of those who have installed the limit switch but never used)
ciao

Hi Sergio.

You are right Sergio, if some MM users run their machines at 200 ipm or more without

limit swiths , i think there wont be problem running a waterjet at 30 ipm. ( i hope )

Thanks

Guillermo

Hi all

Taken from other thread.



Oh yes, Mach 3 requires extended graphics (it does not like integrated graphics),



Are all MM users adding a grafic card to the motherboard or are working OK with

the M.B integrated video card. ???

Hello group.

After a time spent making a 70 tn hydraulic punching machine, decided

to take up this project and wanted to show the anti dust and anti splash

pc I built in 2012.

The case was made in 4mm aluminum sheet and the stand in stainless steel.

Components are.
Intel D525MW Mini ITX Atom 525 Motherboard
64 GB m4 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive
Mini-Box picoPSU-80, 80w output, 12v input DC-DC
12 V 6A 72W Adapter Power supply (Out of the case)
16mm momentary switch
2” fan
Frontal usb port
And hard drive and fan led lights.

The control sistem components should arrive in February.

Forgot this one.

Art soft logo sticker for sand blasting.

Bonita máquina.

Simple, ligera, portátil, protegida de la radio frecuencia, fácil de limpiar y de bajo consumo.

Además chorro de arena, todo un lujo, nos tienes que enseñar cuando lo termines de arenar.

Nice machine.

Simple, light weight, portable, simple to clean, anti RF and low consumtion.
Please, sandblaster pictures !!!.

Hi Ros.

The case is already sandblasted but really in the photos above

cant be appreciated.

Here is attached a better picture.

Could explain me why the pc is anti RF. That is something that i had

not even considered.

Thanks.

Here is.

In some aplications, like plasma cutters, hard interferences, RF, passes through cables or electronics, like pc or controllers, but the solution is isolate the electronics into a box, shielded cables and ground to earth.

In some cases, the RF interferences causes malfunction an loss steps.
In waterjets not is critical but ever is recommend shield the electronic and cables.

Nice work. explain your logo.

Ros,
I thought that every PC has a metal box = case ? does that makes him RF resistant?
metal box is not enough, what saves you from RF is grounding

Guillermo's box is practical and nice, very nice detailing. I used similar board with windows7 and it works perfectly with Mach3.

Danilom, pc= long list, like laptops, but yes, a grounded pc need ground the motherboard from the chassis and connect the chassis to the earth.

Danilo.

Clarified the doubt.

Good to know you're out there. Next month I will be working

with the control box and electronics is what I have weaknesses.

Thanks

Hello group.

After a long delay, finally arrived part of my electronics last week.

1 PMDX 126, 2 G203V, 2 PK296A2A SG 10, 1 PMDX 136, 1 PMDX 104,

1 ESS and a AVEL Y236652 250VA power supply.

In picture #1 is the kitchen table project where just to wire the

contactor in 110 v , start, stop and the 110v e stop buttons.

In picture #2, the stainless steel tubes over the motors are for protect

connections against water and dust.

Picture #3 is an inside view. Here the only thing that worries me is that

i have no info about the temp that the glue supports.

Pictures #4 and 5 are the PS and wiring diagram. Would appreciate a

second opinion before I apply power. I am running 110vac to the input

side of the transformer.

Welcome any comments.

Thanks

Guillermo.

The glue will fail for sure :) at some point

design an enclosure around the whole motor with some went holes at angle that water won't penetrate, in this scenario motor will rust for sure if sprayed with water (paint will hold it off but all of them have some scratch and they will rust eventually on that point), screws that hold the parts of motor will too, and the sticker protecting the back hole could peel off.
I can't say for the gearbox but I think that its not watertight, some who have opened them can say for sure if its or not.

Danilo.

Good point. Rust is a factor that I had not considered.

A motor inside a enclosure will be fine whenever we ensure it does not overheat.

That's something for what I will have enough time to review. For now I need to focus

on the kitchen table project.

Regarding to the PS wiring. 25V+25V parallel = 25 VAC x 1.4 = 35 VDC that is the

power needed. Could you or anyone else confirm if the diagram with red indications

is the one corresponding to this configuration.

Thanks.

Guillermo