Here is the underside showing how thin the casting walls are under the handles.

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3494.jpg

Great pictures James, thanks!

An idea.....?

Cut base off (we only need the body clamp)
Go up inside the casting with threaded flat bars
Put new holes in the casting for screws through to the flats inside:

http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3496.jpg

Go from those flat bars to the z-slide on the left (the clamp-screw away from the slide)? . ? . ?

James (or anyone else who also has this Milwaukee), could you measure the body diameter with a vernier caliper for us? (Doc says it is slightly over 4") Some more overall dimensions would also be useful. I want to see if I can design an adapter that mates to the mounting holes on the z-slide.....

Perhaps combining Gerald's system of the quick change plate welded onto a 4" pipe would be an effective simple solution.
Welding mine to the Z-plate shouldn't present any problems.

Later, if I desire a different tool in the holder, the MechMate can cut an adapter to fit inside the pipe.


DocTanner

I am fond of hydraulic pipe clamps when needing to mount a round item to a flat surface. See McMaster-Carr item 3015T338 or 3015T314.

The Milwaukee body is 105mm (4.14") in diameter.

Thanks for that James. Hey, you are in the telescope mounting business, how about designing and producing a mount for us? http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/clipart/happy.gif

I saw some of these clamps at the local hardware store. They are called "Iron Pipe Repair Clamp" They did not have 4" in stock, but they could order them.

They look like they might be a good mount (RS-2):

http://www.romacon.nl/RomaconEnglish.html



Here is a picture of an even simplier one:
http://www.mechmate.com/Forum/messages/47/3583.jpg

At last... how to replace the Milwaukee 5625 bearings.

DocTanner and all, you might want to take a look at it for "How to remove the depth adjustment screw from the motor...

This is something new I've tried about the MK5625 bearings...

Once again, Good work Paco!

Here is a company selling brackets and toolchangers for routers: Midwest Rapid Tool Inc.

(Please realise that I am not endorsing or promoting a company when I simply make a note to say that it exists)

I just received an email from Ron at K2 devices (K2CNC.com). They are seeing a demand for the Milwauke 5625-29 and will have a mount / bracket designed in the next 10 days.

I'm assuming that the price will be in the $70 USD range (thats what the other mounts are going for).

Greg

The mount for the Milwauke router is ready. I ordered mine last night.

http://www.k2cnc.com/shop/proddetail...MIL5625&cat=31

Greg, do you think your V-rollers are going to touch the 3.5" wide mount?

If I were over on that side of the Atlantic, I would probably buy the Porter-Cable mount and use a thin sheet of plastic when holding the slightly smaller Milwaukee. Then I would be able to hold the Porter Cable if I really had to.

But, after looking at the price difference, I'm not sure if it is worth it.

Gerald,

Good question. I may be putting the cart before the horse.

I was actually more concerned about the cutout on the mount for the depth gage of the Milwaukee router. I didn't think there was enough "meat". Sent several email to Ron and ordered.

After I finish with "J.R.'s Skate" design and drawings (almost done, maybe post tomorrow night), I'll check those dimensions.

Thanks for the input.
Greg

That depth gauge can be removed, but it involves removing the cover, brushes and maybe field coil as well. (Don't know what this does to the warranty). Paco is the resident expert on these things, but I havn't seen him around for a while. Maybe a PM will locate him?

Or check out the photo album I put about disassembling the 5625 for bearing change.

Hey Gerald! Not much post but still reading. Lots of technical stuff that don't need commentating what so ever... since they are from skilled peoples.

Hi Paco

Is it quite easy to remove the depth gauge? I'm sure you don't need to move bearings or anything like that?

Yes it's easy... for me at least... and I'm pretty sure for the most user here.

Prior to remove the cover, you need to remove the depth screw knob. When you get to the point where the brushes are removed and the tachometer is slided off, you just need to lift the motor frame/armature assembly and the depth adjustment screw can be removed.

Most (all?) screws on this unit are of torx type.

Thanks Paco,

When I receive my mount for the Milwauke, I'll post any insights.

I haven't bought my router yet, but didn't figure it would be hard to remove the depth gage. I hope the mount didn't make provisions for the depth gage, since its not of use and easy to remove.

Greg

I do believe it is easy and I may have make clearer that no bearing removal is required to remove the depth screw.

The two things that I'd recommend to be cautious about is to not over tighten the screws since they thread in soft plastic and to mark the electrical connectors (2 black) from the speed sensor assembly if you feel it will help you at reassembly.

Paco, thanks for making this painless. My router is new so all it required was removing four screws and taking the black husing and red cap off by hand.
This will allow you to remove the depth screw. Now the only work is removing the brass brush covers (carefully), enough to clear the armature.
Once that is done you should be home free. Put everything back together (carefully) and test.

Thanks to alllllll the smart people
joe

Gerald,

I received my mount for the Milwaukee router. Its a very nice design and machining is first rate. My only concern is the cut out for the depth gage (red circle). There is approx. 1/8 inch of material. The mount is made from Aluminum. I'm only concerned about cracks from vibration. There are no sharp edges / cornors or stress concentration areas. It may be a non issue.

What's your take?

Greg

Attachment 298

It should be fine.

Thanks Gerald,

The mount is a good design. K2 has been great to deal with.

After looking at the "back plate", it would not be difficult to make a new one or modify the old. I'll probably just go through K2, since they are good to do bussiness with.

Greg

great price for Router Mount
 

K2cnc has an outlet store on ebay...I just picked up the porter cable 7518 mount for 50 dollars! Just thought I would share.
Sean

Gerald,

This weekend, I've been machining my router mounting brackets which was a stupid idea because I probably saved $20 after buying aluminum stock and bolts but wasted 2 days I could have used for something else. Anyway, I'm committed now so I might as well finish it. I'm getting close to the point where I need to drill some holes in the Z-axis plate for the brackets but I can't decide how high or how low my router should be. I looked at the pictures of your MM and it appears that the face of the collet is about 2 inches or so below the bottom of the Z-axis plate. Does that sound right to you? I guess it would be better to have the router too high rather than too low because the fix would be a extra sheet or two of mdf on the table.

Collet about 2" below the slide plate sounds fine.

This is an area that is never really discussed - thanks for highlighting it. As you noted, the further it goes below the plate, the less clearance you will have under the collet and cutter for loading thick jobs. However, if the router sits too high on its rail, the rail/slide collides with:
- edges of the job when cutting deep bowls for example.
- g-clamps used to hold the job down
- a dust collecting foot (which in itself is another can of worms)

Kress Spindles
 

Gerald,

Do you know any thing about kress spindles?

http://www.techno-isel.com/CNC_Route...s/variable.htm

Thanks

The "Kress spindle" is nothing special as far as I know - it is a typical "laminate trimmer" , or "die-grinder" without the extended neck. We used a Metabo for a long time as our only "spindle", and it worked fine.

Do realise that when most folk talk of spindles, they mean brushless motors designed for industrial use clamped into bigger machinery. The Kress is not one of the real spindles - it has brushes and is mainly intended as a portable handheld tool, ie. for die grinding or laminate trimming.

Thanks for the feed back.

I have just put a kress 1050w(input) router on my shopbot as a horizontal spindle. I havn't used it much yet but it looks good - I will report if it fails to delight.
The advantage over a similar router is that it has double business end bearings - this is similar to a spindle (and die grinder I guess), though they are ordinary deep V and inexpensive. It also takes collets up to 10mm and is comparatively quiet (to some) and cheap, as it is only the motor. It also has a fully machined steel 43mm lower housing that is useful for fixing it to the cnc.
It suffers from the usual brush motor router low power at low speed.

R.

Thanks for that report Ralph. It does sound better engineered than the more typical motors in that class. Must be the German pedigree.

rhfurniture,
What's the price of kress 1050w in US$

Bout $238, from a UK ebay shop.
Collets are about $37, mounting bracket about $50

Thanks Ralph

Milwaukee 5625 Bearing
 

Yesterday evening, my Milwaukee 5625 started making some bad noises. After hitting the E-Stop, external inspection revealed that the bottom bearing (P/N - 02-04-2006) was coming out of the Motor Housing (P/N - 28-50-0110).

Don't have any idea what might have cause this. Has anyone experienced this before?

I'm headed back to the shop this morning to dissemble and inspect for any internal damage.

More later.

The main/lower bearing should stay in it's sleeve in the housing. It should be flush with the housing. This is how it look normally. What I found is that those two retaining screws are not doing a good job. Fine threading in aluminum is no good at all. One of my router's retaining screw as stripped the housing thread after a couple of unscrew/screw. The lower main/lower bearing is press fit in the housing but under heavy working conditions, it may slip out if the retaining screw fail. I have fix mine with locking compound so "it doesn't move".

Hope that help.

Thanks Paco. Your blog was a big help.

It looks like the culprit was that black bristle from the DC foot skiting. Some how (not clear yet) it got sucked up (thought router was down draft) and pushed the bearing out.

Cleaned everything and no damage. Putting back together and test run shortly.

Side Note: Why is it fun to take things apart ? Must be in a man's DNA. :)

Edit: Just looked at Paco's bearing link. Oops. I never put the two screws back in after removing the plastic flow diverter along time back. Surprised it has been running this long. I guess it's a good test that shows how little force is pushing the bearings out.