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Well,... there's one place that has exactly what I should get.
Electric dual disc grinder: http://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipm...040&catid=s340 The special vac: http://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipm...410&catid=s339 Its about 90 a day for EACH. And im assuming I have to buy the discs. How many discs I need,... I dont know. I could probably get it done in a day. My garage is about 700sqf. Then theres another place where there site isnt specfic at all about the grinder they do have. It says gas/ electric. I emailed them and they said, "We carry the grinders for your application. You would use an electric dual head grinder w/ abrasive stones. The grinder rents for $80/Day or for the weekend. The set of stones is approx. $39.00. If your garage is big, I can give you an extra set and whatever you don't use you can return. We close at 4:15 today." Dont know if it comes with the vac though. But like Gerald said I can probably just wet the floor down good. I might give this a go next weekend. |
I just noticed now that they attached pdf files to that email. Its 80 a day for an electric dual head Edco. Pretty much like the one in the second video you posted metalhead. Dont think it comes with the vac.
Do you think I should get that and just keep the floor wet for dust control? Im thinking yes. The other is very much the right tool for the job but we're talking 180 a day easily. What do you think? |
You can use a shopvac on the unit if you have one. Wet grinding is a mess in a finished house. If you have Sheetrock on the walls you can't get those wet.
Wet works good for big open wharehouses. Not so easy to control in a house. You should be able to get the vac as well for a few dollars more. They can tell you what grit you need, but typical grinding uses 80 grit. The electric units come in two flavors - 110 and 220 . The 220 model will typically will be able to be ran on your dryer plug without isses. You will need a 20amp or better circuit for the 110 to keep from blowing the breaker constantly. Best time to rent these is over a holiday weekend and work out the deal with the supplier to let you pick it up late the day before you start. Say you have a Friday, Saturday , Sunday holiday. Tell them you want to pickup the machine at just before COB on Thursday and you take it back at SOB (Start of business) on Monday. This should still trigger a one day rental. If not just tell them you will go see someone else in your area who will rent to you like this. Don't be suprised if it takes you a lot longer than you figured to get the floor like you want it. Also keep in mind you will not be able to get the last 2 or 3 inched next to the wall. That has to be done with a hand grinder. They make a hand grinder stand to do this so you don't have to crawl around on the floor. More reading for you. http://www.edcoinc.com/floor-grinders-2ec.html But I am no expert :D ...... Just did a lot of research when I was looking to get into the garage refit business. I would call a few folks in your area and atleast get 3 bids just to see what folks are willing to do in this economy. |
One more thing. If you are only wanting to "scale" the floor and "open" up the pours by peeling off a micro layer of concrete and and flaky concrete.
You can use a buffing machine with a 80grit sanding pad instead of a full blown grinder. They prep the floor for paint and epoxies very well. http://www.floorbuffers.com/Qstore/p001908.htm Ask about these types of machines. |
Well im resurfacing the floor in my detached garage so water mess is fine. I know it will be sloppy,... I dont care. As long as I get he finish I want.
The guys at the one place said 80 for a weekend. Thats pretty good. Im sure i can squeeze some extra time in there. I need to do more then just remove the top layer. I need to grind away some damaged spots and flatten out some areas. Not all that worried about the 2 - 3 inches up against the walls that will be missed. I i can scrub that clean with a steel bush easily. Its mainly the inner floor that needs the work. I think the electric they are offering is 110v. I have a good 20amp breaker for it. I also have a 220v outlet too. Thanks for your help. |
Sorry for the bleated reply ... sounds like you know what you want to do.
The floor I wanted in a shop ever since I was in college was end grain oak block floor. Start with a concrete floor, put in 1 to 2 inches of sand, then 4x4 or whatever oak blocks about 6" long (today you can find them 1-2" long) and stack them vertically side by side with then end grain showing. Tamp it down and keep it level. Sweep in some sand to fill in the cracks. Sand it down if you need to with a floor type sander. It was wonderful to stand and work on. Swept up easily. Absorbed sound, dropped tools didn't break easily, absorbed any drips of oil or liquids within reason, and non-conductive. It was looking good after over 50 years of use when I was there many moons ago (30+ years). We rolled machine tool carts with steel wheels on it without problems. Large trucks didn't phase it. If a few got damaged, it was fairly easy to put a screw eye in a block, pull it out with a hoist, and install a new one. ... No glue, no nails, but it was indoors (not conditioned year round). |
I havent heard anything about putting flakes down in the paint and I highly recommend this. Reason being is that on rainy, snowy, misty days you will track in water. Smooth epoxy floor are very slippery. I have seen a truck slam into a helicopter with all 4 tires locked up.
I read that you want to get rid of slopes and drains. I woudnt infact I would make your drain bigger if it was me. You can find larger grate sizes that will allow you to stick a 3 or 5 gallon bucket down inside to catch anything that you dont want in the well but for those times that you want to clean the floor. Its just a matter of going in with a hose and squeegee. At work we have a drain that is 3 feet wide by 300 feet long that goes through the middle of the hanger. When we clean out a space we go in with a pressure washer and 5 guys with squeegees. Takes a little under 15 minutes to do 2,000sqft. If your dust collector bags are what is hitting the ceiling then just get rid of them. In that nice open country of yours I would just install a cyclone and pipe what ever doesnt get caught out the side of the garage. Its usually really fine dust that the cyclone doesnt get and would keep the shop cleaner and not as much maintenance on the filters. Here is a good site for building your own cyclone.http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm Another thing that came to mind is you could build a small shed off the side of garage and house the cyclone in there. I would also build it big enough to house a 60 - 80 gallon compressor. Keep all the noisey, dirty things outside;) Some day I will have far away neighbors but for now their bedroom is 15 feet away from my garage/shop. I know I would hate to have me as a neighbor. |
I think I would go another route... Renting the machine is one thing, having the skill to produce a finished floor that looks really good is another.. Your going to have a steep learning curve, race against time with the machine rental and then have to clean up a big mess when your through...
I would fill in all the major cracks and drains if you really want them to go and then use use this stuff to level out the floor.. http://www.edisoncoatings.com/store/Level-X52.html |
I agree with Ken on this one and would just bust out the old and re-pour a new one...
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Upgrading the house to 400Amps would be INCREDIBLY expensive. I looked into this ten years ago - just the breaker box and the 400A main breaker were $2k! You don't want to even think about the service entrance cable to carry 400A, let alone to carry 200A to the shop.
Much simpler is to have the electric co run a separate 200A service directly to the shop - it'll have it's own meter and a separate monthly bill. Even a SquareD panel and full set of breakers for it should be less than $6-700. That will actually be a good thing should you ever convert it over to a business. Brian |
WOW! Thats expensive to upgrade the house to 400a. 600 - 700 for a seperate service of 200a for the garage is very doable. I actually had talked my my electrician and he said if I split the 200a panel in the house so that I had 100a for the house and 100a for the garage that I would probably be just fine. But im assuming it would probably cost as much to have a seperate 200a service installed. I'll have to call and get quoted for the seperate service. 200a would hold me over for awhile.
I didnt get to doing the floors yet in the garage. Been stupid busy working on my basement. Im refinishing it. Im thinking my next weekend off I will do the floors. My girlfriend keeps bring stuff into the garage. furniture and all. Im going to move all that stuff out. Thats my space. She knows that. |
Check on the monthly cost for the two different services.. Our electricity provider charges 27.00 per month just for each meter. Thats 324.00 US per year for each meter alone... Electricity is extra... If you can get buy on one service that would save you some money in the long run...
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Well the etra money spent per year I think will be well worth not having to stress over power issues. With a 200a service I could easily run 2 mm's plus whatever else that needs to be run. I will be making money with my machines so it won't be a big deal. Forking out the initial is what I'm worrying about right now...
With a single service split 100/ 100 I would just barely make it. |
Charles,
I have a 200A service in my house at the moment and with it I feed my shop with a 100A breaker. Now when I am in the shop I can use 100A all day long, If you do not have 10 guys working in there, there is now way you will ever use 100A as far as I am concerned. Also you still have the full 200A available to the house (less whatever you are using in the garage). As long as the draw of house and garage is under 200A you are lots safe. I would put in a 200A panel in the garage so if later you really do need a service upgrade once business is booming, you can still use it with the new service feed at a later date, just disconnect from the house and get utility company to run a new feed. |
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