Today a new tool arrives to home.
Now more learn time.

Mechmate mechanical part construction is near.

Attachment 11376

Hi all.

Im installing the LinuxCnc in one Compac flash and the system is the next:

Install the LinuxCNC ISO image into one USB memory
This Tool is a very good ISO to USB boot image creator.
Next restart the computer with the USB image and install this into the compact flash following This recomendations.

hi ros. iam interested in put my system on a solid drive. but iam consern about the read/ write life of this devices.
i already use some systems for test on usb or SD memories. you can even put windows xp on it and its very fast.
but there is no much info about how much it last untill it fails.
saludos!

About the web in the link my previous post, it is mentioned 15 years?

The Corsair have a lifetime warranty for his compact flash memories.

About This Link:

And we can apply the method for writhe all the files in the ram memory instead of CF.

It is possible in the next 15 years i thinking in change the computer hardware :)

In my test with this Motherboard:

Fujitsu Siemens Futro S400
Processor AMD Geode Nx1500 microprocessor 1Ghz
4GB Transcend X300 Compactflash
So-dim 1GB DDR333 Ram
Linux CNC Ubuntu 10.04.

The Latency test give me between 10.000 and 12.000 (ns)

Remember the latency is:
(15000-20000 nanoseconds), the computer should give very nice results with software stepping.

(30.000-50.000 nanoseconds), you can still get good results, but your maximum step rate might be a little disappointing, especially if you use microstepping or have very fine pitch leadscrews.

(100,000 nanoseconds or more), then the PC is not a good candidate for software stepping.

Hi Guys - I might just add some hard won experience to the Compact Flash discussion if I may.

Regardless of the media you boot a machine from, a backup remains the best insurance you can have.
A guarantee only replaces the media not the data.

In the final analysis, boot from what ever you like but always have another copy in the event of a failure.
This strategy also guards against the other scenario of software corruption that is equally able to stop a machine from booting.

Regards
Ross

Some imformation about LinuxCNC EMC2 and Leadshine DM856 configuration.

My screens.

Information:

Step Timer 2.5 us = 2500 ns
Step Space 2.5 us = 2500 ns
Direction Hold 5 us = 5000 ns
Direction Setup 5 us = 5000 ns
The base period maximun jitter is the max jitter in the Latency test.

This information is from the Leadshine DM856 Attachment 11397 Datasheet, page number 8.

Attachment 11394

This configuration for one PMDX-122 (more configurations next finish)

Attachment 11395

Leadshine DM856 are configured in 10 microsteppings.
Motors witouth reductions
Pinion gears 24 teeths

The Leadscrew pith is simple to know, we can see the Gerald speed calculator.
Attachment 11398
The marked date in mm we can multiply by our steps per revolution.
0.038x2000=76mm/rev
My max velocity is set to 167mm/s = 10.000 mm/min (aprox)

Attachment 11396

I select the Leadshine DM856 for reasons:

1- Tested for other user with good results.
2- Price is good
3- Digital modern drivers.
4- Amperes digital selection or via swith.
5- Have heatsink incorporated.
6- Leadshine is a big company and ensure parts.

I hope it helps.

hola a todos especial mente a ti roque
decirte que te estoy muy agradecido por toda la ayuda que me facilitas

De nada, es un placer poder ayudar.

Ya me dirás si conseguiste los corte por láser.

Decirte que por Mallorca tienes a Fred, que ha construido una Mechmate en Francia y luego la iba a trasladar a Mallorca, pero no hemos sabido mas.

Saludos y esperamos muchas fotos de tu construcción.

Amperes consumption test.

Today i test the amperes consumption.

My Power Supply is one 300VA - 30V - 9A

In my tests with 5 motors:

System consumption: 5 Leadshine DM856 drivers and one PMDX-122 BOB = 1.4A
System consumption + 5 motors working (Max consumption) = 7.5A
One motor consumption = 1.2Amperes

My Power Supply is a good selection.

This is one Youtube Video. A bad quality and no sound. but we can see the amperes.

Cool !! Great Progress !!

careful with the thumb drive, I fried 2 already.

Thanks Mike.
I only stirred the soup while waiting my next step. :)

Ken.

About your drivers, in the pics is M860 model. This driver recommended supply from +24VDC to +68VDC.
About your Power Supply is This? 75VDC or 65VDC (With load)

Im thinking the driver is in the limit of recomended capability or overloaded.
It is normall fried drivers. :)

60~65V with load.
The motor drivers are still healthy & works perfect since day 1.
The drives which I fried were the Thumb Drive A.K.A. Pen drive, A.K.A. USB drive
The 1st one fried because I stripped it naked removed the casing for better ventilation, but some how it was fried, I suspect static surge killed it... & the 2nd drive was partially fried, as some of the content were corrupted & I still suspect static surge caused it, from there on I never touch the drive without grounding myself prior. better still I've never touched it for over 6 months now & its still working...

Ok Ken.

I have only +41VDC in my drivers, I hope not fry, their range is +20VDC to +68VDC
It is possible when put long cables between box control and motors in the table, the voltage drops some units. (to calculate)

41Vdc, that is seriously under utilising IMO. 5~10% below the max V is suitable & enough safe in my opinion.
I use 48Vac @500VA transformer. In theory after the voltage drop in the power supply & the stepper motor winding impedance I should get ~65VDC but in real life measurements, I get 75~78Vdc unloaded. & with load, 60~65Vdc (but mostly 60~61Vdc) depending on the mains voltage fluctuation which is still well within the drivers' operating range. Don't worry about frying the Chinese driver.
It is the flash drive that you need to take additional precautions.

An interesting read.
 

PROPER FEEDING

The right feed is neither too fast nor too slow. It is the rate at
which the bit is being advanced firmly and surely to produce
a continuous spiral of uniform chips — without hogging into
the wood to make large individual chips or, on the other hand,
to create only sawdust. If you are making a small diameter,
shallow groove in soft, dry wood, the proper feed may be
about as fast as you can travel your router along your guide
line. On the other hand, if the bit is a large one, the cut is deep
or the wood is hard to cut, the proper feed may be a very slow
one. Then, again, a cross-grain cut may require a slower
pace than an identical with grain cut in the same workpiece.
There is no fixed rule. You will learn by experience. . . by
listening to the router motor and by feeling the progress of
each cut. If at all possible, always test a cut on a scrap piece
of the workpiece wood, beforehand.

Attachment 11532

RATE OF FEED

IMPORTANT: The whole "secret" of professional routing
and edge shaping lies in making a careful set-up for the cut
to be made and in selecting the proper rate of feed.

FORCE FEEDING

Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only
when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is
taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed
chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the
RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its
forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites
as it revolves. “Bigger bites” mean bigger chips, and a
rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which
could result in the router motor becoming overloaded.
Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM of
the bit can become so slow—and the bites it has to take so
large—that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than
fully cut off), with resulting splintering and gouging of the
workpiece. See Figure 10.
Your Router is an extremely high-speed tool (25,000
RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if
allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too
fast) feed. Three things that cause “force feeding” are bit
size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger
the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the router
should be advanced. If the wood is very hard, knotty, gummy
or damp, the operation must be slowed still more.
You can always detect “force feeding” by the sound of the
motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and stronger
as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be
noticeably increased.

TOO SLOW FEEDING

It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward
too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a
revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast enough to take
a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away sawdust-like particles.
Scraping produces heat, which can glaze, burn, or mar the
cut— in extreme cases, can even overheat the bit so as to
destroy its hardness.
In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the bit
is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load on the
motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM, and will
have a much greater than normal tendency to bounce off the
sides of the cut (especially, if the wood has a pronounced
grain with hard and soft areas). As a result, the cut produced
may have rippled, instead of straight sides. See Figure 10
“Too-slow feeding” can also cause your router to take off in
a wrong direction from the intended line of cut.
You can detect “too-slow feeding” by the runaway too-highly
pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the “wiggle” of the
bit in the cut.

Attachment 11533

DEPTH OF CUT

As previously mentioned, the depth of cut is important
because it affects the rate of feed which, in turn, affects the
quality of a cut (and, also, the possibility of damage to your
router motor and bit). A deep cut requires a slower feed than
a shallow one, and a too deep cut will cause you to slow the
feed so much that the bit is no longer cutting, it is scraping,
instead .
Making a deep cut is never advisable. The smaller bits—
especially those only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) in diameter —are
easily broken off when subjected to too much side thrust. A
large enough bit may not be broken off, but if the cut is too
deep a rough cut will result— and it may be very difficult to
guide and control the bit as desired. For these reasons, we
recommend that you do not exceed 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) depth
of cut in a single pass, regardless of the bit size or the
softness or condition of the workpiece. See Figure 11.
To make deeper cuts it is therefore necessary to make as
many successive passes as required, lowering the bit 1/8
inch for each new pass. In order to save time, do all the
cutting necessary at one depth setting, before lowering the
bit for the next pass. This will also assure a uniform depth
when the final pass is completed. See Figure 12.

DIRECTION OF FEED AND THRUST

The router motor and bit revolve in a clockwise direction. This
gives the tool a slight tendency to twist (in your hands) in a
counterclockwise direction, especially when the motor is
starting up.
Because of the extremely high speed of bit rotation during a
“proper feeding” operation, there is very little kickback to
contend with under normal conditions. However, should the
bit strike a knot, hard grain, foreign object, etc. that would
affect the normal progress of the cutting action, there will be
a slight kickback—sufficient to spoil the trueness of your cut
if you are not prepared. Such a kickback is always in the
direction opposite to the direction of bit rotation.
To guard against such a kickback, plan your set-up and
direction of feed so that you will always be thrusting the
tool—to hold it against whatever you are using to guide the
cut—in the same direction that the leading edge of the bit is
moving. In short, the thrust should be in a direction that keeps
the sharp edges of the bit continuously biting straight into
new (uncut) wood.

Attachment 11534

ROUTING

Whenever you are routing a groove, your travel should be in
a direction that places whatever guide you are using at the
right-hand side. In short, when the guide is positioned as
shown in the first part of Figure 13, tool travel should be left
to right and counterclockwise around curves. When the
guide is positioned as shown in the second part of Figure 13,
tool travel should be right to left and clockwise around
curves. If there is a choice, the first set-up is generally the
easiest to use. In either case, the sideways thrust you use is
against the guide.

Ross - Nice contribution.

hola amigo de canarias
mi nombre es sergio de palma de mallorca
me podrias ayudar en como configurar esclavo en eje x de mach3
osea hacer que dos motores funcionen ala misma ves gracias

Hola Chispaso;

No se si Ros anda por aqui, pero en dentro de una semana mas o menos estare configurando yo tambien mi maquina. Si quieres te do una mano.

Saludos

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Now the english version
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Hey Chispaso;

I dont know if Ros is around here but I will be configuring my machine next week so if you want I will give you a hand after I do it/

Cheers