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-   -   MotionKing motors and controllers (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1845)

cbboatworks Wed 19 September 2007 13:13

Hello Gerald

In the past I have ordered Radio Controlled Helicopters 20 at a time from China with no import tax added. the shipping was through EMS as well.I have never run into a problem it may be different with the motors. I will check into it before sending money.Thanks for the Heads up

Gene



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Gene, maybe you should check if you have to pay an import tax on those motors? TNT Express will probably call you to say they have a parcel for you and they they would like to know what "Stepper Motors" are. They would be trying to figure out the "Customs Tariff Code" from this document: http://hotdocs.usitc.gov/docs/tata/h...er/0702c85.pdf and there you will see that import duties on motors can range from zero(free) to 6.7%. The best thing to do is to get your supplier (MotionKing) to state the tariff code number on their invoice. (My guess is for tariff code 8501.20.20)

Then you might also have a Sales Tax or Value Added Tax?

TNT Express will only hand the parcel to you if you pay them all the taxes and duties.

Gerald D Wed 19 September 2007 13:28

If you are an experienced importer, you shouldn't have a problem with the paperwork.

I am just doing all I can to minimise your surprises with these motors, seeing that you will be the first person to actually use MotionKing for this project. Thanks in advance for being the guineau pig. :)

cbboatworks Wed 19 September 2007 14:50

Gerald I am very grateful for your help and all that you have done by making it possible to build a wonderful machine like the MechMate. I am not only speaking for myself I think others will agree that the MechMate is the Best design on the web. I have not had a chance to start building yet but have had a chance to see the MechMate being built in person by JR Hatcher.He has a awesome machine.I will have to say he is a top notch builder. Keep the MechMates coming. Thanks to all of you



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
If you are an experienced importer, you shouldn't have a problem with the paperwork.

I am just doing all I can to minimise your surprises with these motors, seeing that you will be the first person to actually use MotionKing for this project. Thanks in advance for being the guineau pig. :)

Abernathy Fri 02 November 2007 13:59

Any News on the Motionkings?
 
I've been lurking, following this thread on the imported motors, and was wondering if you've recieved them yet, and If so, what was your conclusion?

Thanks--Very informative..

Abernathy

sailfl Sun 04 November 2007 03:58

Montionking geared motors
 
Yes, I would also like to know what happened. Did Motionking respond to a compatable geared motor.

pksharma Sun 04 November 2007 06:08

cbboatworks,
Did you get your M.K. moters ? What's the result ?

Uthman Mon 05 November 2007 00:31

Hi all, I'm new to this forum, can anyone please tell me the ac power for 34hs9802 and 23hs8603 Motionking motors? I'm using them in Engraving machine and want to calculate their power.

Gerald D Mon 05 November 2007 00:56

Do you already have the motors and are they already connected and running? What is the voltage of your power supply?

Uthman Mon 05 November 2007 01:17

Yea, they're running. The input voltage of the motors' drivers is 220V ac, and the output voltages are 17 and 60 V ac

Gerald D Mon 05 November 2007 01:55

Then you can measure the ac power by measuring the amps at the 220V side. Volts x Amps = Power (Watts)

Uthman Mon 05 November 2007 02:11

You mean Volts*Amps*power factor, ac not dc power Gerald D, my problem is how to calculate the power factor. Can you help please???

Gerald D Mon 05 November 2007 02:26

Can't actually help. If it all works and you can measure everything, why do you need to calculate anything? You don't have to lay thicker wires to your house or build a new power station, or anything like that do you? :)

Uthman Mon 05 November 2007 02:34

Thank you anyway!

Kobus_Joubert Tue 15 April 2008 23:35

Any FRESH news on MotionKing 34HS9801 steppers ? Anybody using them yet?

Robert M Mon 12 May 2008 18:31

Hi Gene
Where are you in your built ?
Have you had a chance to do the “kitchen project” with those Motionkings?
Can any others with MotionKing motors chime-in and give some feed back, it be interesting to have some updates !
Thanks for considering, Robert

Lex Wed 02 July 2008 04:34

I am also thinking serousily about importing some motors from Motionking. Are there any MMs in production with this motors fitted?
I know they are on Kobus's BBB.
Who else?

Robert M Thu 07 August 2008 05:14

Some advice & opinion would be well appreciated
 
Hi all
As stated before, I’m planning on making my MM with an indexer.
I’ve pretty much finished my blue prints and the “to buy” list but still hesitant on this key selection... THE MOTORS :eek:
With all the info on motors I read and can absorb, I’m still no quite confident about what I came to pre-select.
Been looking at the MotionKing 34HS rang.
Say I would want to select two type of motors, one type for the MM design and the other one for the indexer but out of the same controller ( power supply), do I see in the right direction by assuming if I’m to mixed motors size they should be the same (or close to each other) Inductance & rated current ?
As an example, I’m considering the 34HS 4802 for the MM and the 34HS 2802 for the indexer since it may be more suited for indexing with its higher holing torque.
All those will be eventually fitted with a belt reduction transmission. ( only after the BB will be able to cut aluminum). A 4:1 for the MM and a +/- 30:1 multi-stage version for the indexer.

Is selecting two different types for my future set up a correct reasonable way to go or all 5 motors should be the same specification / size ?
Does my pre-selection seems reasonable ?
What m'I not seeing clear ??
Thanks in advance, Robert :confused:

J.R. Hatcher Thu 07 August 2008 05:44

Robert why are you going to use different motors. I think with a 30:1 tranny on the indexer you could pull your house off the foundation :D. Also holding torque will be increased many times, in fact with a 30:1 if the motor had no torque you would not be able to move it because of just friction.;) Another thing to consider with a 30:1 will be rpm. Will you be able to get the speed you want. It will be very slow maybe too slow.

Robert M Thu 07 August 2008 06:57

JR, I’m not going with different motors, just questioning / considering if it is the way I should go ?
Questioning this is where I’m at this stage. That’s why I need some advice.
I fully realize your torque concern, but you never have to much on an indexer as I read !
In my quest, I cam across those :
See Mike’s post #14
See Mike’s post #33
See Gerald’s post #7
They sell a 30:1 drive system for as an A-drive indexer -> See this video

Obviously some detail & information I did not include in my post below was in order to keeping it as simple as I could :confused:
On my future indexer ( not lathe ! = no speed needed) I intend to turn pieces of various diameter, up to +/- 16”.
I’m not concern with small stock of say, 4inch diameter by 36” long or less ( just as an objective size). I’m more concern is when stock of +/- 8” + in diam by over 60” length will be needed !!?
Thanks for your concern /advice !
Amicalement, Robert ;)

Gerald D Thu 07 August 2008 07:16

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert M View Post
Say I would want to select two type of motors, one type for the MM design and the other one for the indexer but out of the same controller ( power supply), do I see in the right direction by assuming if I’m to mixed motors size they should be the same (or close to each other) Inductance & rated current ?
If you want to run off one power supply (you can have more than one supply), that will give you a fixed voltage which will closely match one inductance value.

Rated currents can be completely different, that is not an issue.

Robert M Fri 08 August 2008 05:06

Thanks Gerald.
What do you think about my motor selection ?
Any suggestion & comments ??

Gerald D Fri 08 August 2008 06:11

It makes much more sense to use the same motor for everything. For example, next year you have one motor that becomes suspicious . . . . what will you use to exchange it with so that you can diagnose the problem?

Yes, you can have too much torque for an indexer.....you can have too much torque for anything......

When you have a 30:1 ratio for 16" diam work, you have no need for a bigger motor than the "linear" axis direct drive motors.

Robert M Sun 10 August 2008 07:43

Gerald, Aside of « suspicious » motor malfunction, what would you say that makes selecting all the same motor in a set up a more sensible choice??
In my purchase forecast, I figured it be wise to buy an extra MotionKing motor at the same time since it’s only an extra +/- 40euros and the bulk of the total cost is more in the courier charges ( +/- 250 to 300 euros per order!).

Maybe I’m having one of those translating moments or I’m just not understanding but what do you mean by “ When you have a 30:1 ratio for 16" diam work, you have no need for a bigger motor than the "linear" axis direct drive motors “ it's been keeping my mind busy this last couple days !!!

Would you consider the 34HS 2802 (a 680N.cm motor) with a 30:1 trans to big for an indexer with the ambition to turn / index small light pieces up to hallow but still heavy wood stock of +/- 40cm x 230cm ( 16” x 90”) ??
If so, what should I look at ?
Thanks for your attention to my quest in understanding more on motors and proper motor selection :o
Robert ;)

Gerald D Sun 10 August 2008 09:27

Take your x-axis; there your direct-drive MotionKing will have a 20 tooth pinion. One turn of the motor will move the cutter 3.14" The motor torque will give you enough force to move the cutter, or, to hold the x-position while the y-axis is doing a move.

Now, convert to the rotary "indexer" equivalent, by wrapping your table around a cylinder. Let's take an x-axis of 96", that means a table and rack length of 96". If that is wrapped around a cylinder, the table diameter is 30" and the rack becomes a 30" diameter gear with 600 teeth. This gives you an "indexer" of 30:1 ratio, capable of handling 30" diameter work at the same cutting speeds, cutting forces, holding forces. That is why I say that 30:1 ratio will hold/cut 16" diameter work, without needing a bigger motor that you use to drive the x-axis, or y-axis.

Why not get very complicated?; the x-axis can have smaller motors than the y-axis, because there are two motors on the x sharing the load. The z can also be smaller than the y. Or, maybe you can make the x and z the same size and get a big y? You can make yourself mad asking all the questions all the time.

Would a motor be too big? Well, there is a whole thread about that. Would a certain MotionKing be too big? I have no idea - I have never seen any MotionKing motor.

Richards Sun 10 August 2008 09:55

Robert,

Gerald has given some good advice. I had to read the indexer part several times before I "got" it, but his reasoning makes perfect sense.

Like him, I have never used a MotionKing motor, so I would only be guessing if I suggested any of their motors. The specifications look good, but over the years, I've bought a lot of motors from a lot of companies that didn't work as advertised. When I found Oriental Motor, I stopped testing other brands of motors. The Oriental Motor did everything that it was supposed to do and did it day after day after day.

If I were going to specify motors for your machine, I would use the Oritiental Motor PK296A2A-SG7.2 motors for the X, Y and Z axes. That particular motor seems to be working well for those who have already built their machines. For the indexer, I would have to do the math to see which gear ratio would work best. A 16" diameter is about 50", so 50 inches / 2000 steps = 0.025" per step. If you wanted a resolution of 0.001" per step, you would divide 0.025" by 0.001", which would give you a 25:1 gear ratio, so your specification about using a 30:1 gear ratio seems to be valid.

Because the Oriental Motor PK296A2A-SGxx motors are relatively inexpensive, I would use them until I needed something else. Granted, their gear boxes have a little backlash and granted that their gearboxes cannot handle all the torque that the geared motor can produce. However, the gearboxes seem to be more than adequate for the speeds and feeds required.

I would use a 25VDC to 35VDC power supply (I've used both with excellent results).

EDITED: I would wire the motors half-coil for use with a power supply in the 25-35VDC range. If you wire the motors full-coil (bipolar series), you'll need a power supply closer to 70VDC.

One note about building belt-driven transmissions: Although a single-stage transmission is easy enough to build and fairly inexpensive, just bolting a geared motor onto the motor-mount is sooo much easier. I've built several versions of 3:1 belted transmissions for my shopbot; however, I've replaced those motors and transmissions with the 7.2:1 geared motors that Shopbot offered. As far as I can see, the 3:1 and the 7.2:1 produce cuts of equal quality. Both the 3:1 and the 7.2:1 produced cuts that are far superior to the non-geared 1:1 motors that came with my machine. The 1:1 produced significant "chatter". The geared motors still show some "chatter", but nothing that can't be sanded out with a few strokes of 100 grit sandpaper.

Robert M Sun 10 August 2008 10:23

1 Attachment(s)
Gerald, Allow me to say this old proverb / joke : “Ahhhh, now I can see much better, says the blind man ”.
Thanks for this “rotary indexer equivalent” info, much appreciated :)

I have this Excel sheet (witch I can’t really remember where I got it, excuse my lack of knowing the original writer! ) about proper motor holding torque size calculation ( see the attachment), but not certain what are the weight of the individuals axis of the MM for using it ??
Well on the other hand, fine about having this excel figuring out the proper motor torque size, but what’s the real draw back of getting a motor a little bigger than prescribe by this sheet ?

What I mean by little bigger, say going 20 – 25% stronger holding torque then what it calculates with out exceeding this 1000oz-in barrier !? ( again, today my brain is getting buzzed with me getting in this motor thing, so sorry if I can’t really remember where & why I read this but I think it was a quote from Mike Richard and/or Marris recommending no one should exceed this 1000ioz-in ???).

Making yourself mad you say… My family is seriously considering calling the guys who gladly come and pull people out of their home with a “white vest” :eek:
All this because I keep on saying I’m having a blast with all this !!
Improving my knowledge has never been so fun & rewarding….
Thanks MechMaters, thank you so much Gerald ;)
( for the attachement change the extention from .txt ->to -> .xls )

Gerald D Sun 10 August 2008 11:14

Do you think that the 1000 oz-in is suddenly bad, while the 999 oz-in is still good? What is the shape of the good/bad graph before we get to 1000 oz-in?

Richards Sun 10 August 2008 13:55

The "ideal" motor, when used with a gearbox or belt-transmission would probably be the PK296-03AA (which is probably the motor used in the PK296A2A-SGxx geared motor - when you compare the specifications).

With a 30-tooth pinion gear (inch measurements), you get a pitch diameter of 1.5-inches, or 4.71 linear inches of motion per pinion gear rotation. That means that with a 7.2:1 gear drive, the stepper motor is going to be spinning between about 200RPM and 650RPM when the feed rate is between 2-ips and 7-ips - which is where I personally cut almost 100% of my work. Those speeds fall on a very strong portion of the trorque curve, and with the 7.2:1 gearbox, the gearbox is the limiting factor for torque, not the motor.

At 7-ips and a 7.2:1 gearbox, that motor requires about 21,000 steps per second, meaning that even a modest computer can drive Mach3 at those speeds.

Power requirements are fairly modest. Voltage requirements are modest. Heat generation is modest. Power is sufficient. What more could you ask from a "universal" motor?

Robert M Sun 10 August 2008 14:50

Hi Mike, Thanks for your input and these math. :):)

It’s no secret that I’m seduced by the approach of making my own belt-drive transmission for quite a wile and that make me look at other option / alternatives than those PK geared motor set-up.
I’ve drawn a trany with a 4:1 ratio for the X, Y & Z and another with 30:1 for the indexer.
Beauty of those as you know is I can eventually change their ration as I please / need or testing , with-in a reasonable range !

Reasons why I’m looking / thinking at the MotionKing motors is to add info on this brand for others & future MechMate builds, and also they seem to have a wider range. Although, I’m totally lost in this range selection thing, once I understand this better and make more sense I too will share & help… hopefully ?
Don’t read me wrong, I have nothing against Oriental Motors, their track record is not to question. But knowing about other brands may help !!
Never read anything wrong about MotionKing… YET!
If at the end of the “funnel” there is only Oriental Motor to be, than that’s that !

Robert M Sun 10 August 2008 14:56

Gerald, I’m sorry if I got there (1000 oz-in) but I don’t have the know-how, knowledge or pretension of knowing how to determine what oz-in torque is crucial or bad, it’s only a “figured value” I remember reading somewhere and I can’t remember where, but if my memory isn’t playing to much with me, it was a good credible source !!

What are the weight of individual axis on a spec regular MechMate, so I can juggle and learn with this Excel sheet ??
Also, what are the drawbacks (if any) for selecting a motor with a little more holding torque, say +/- 20-30% than prescribe ?
In a typical MechMate set-up / case, why 450 N.cm is OK and why not 580N.cm ?
I read you clear when you say “you can have too much torque for anything......”, but timid to ask… why :o :confused:
Don’t get me wrong, I’m not suffering of the Tim Allen syndrome “ BIGGER IS BETTER” au contraire, I too am a preacher of selecting the proper part needed”. It’s just that I’m questioning it to improve & understand more on this.

Say a motor manufacturer offers virus motor specs for the same given motor torque ( In this case see MotionKing 450 N.cm series, there are three different ones)
How and what would make one select a specific type vs the other ones offerd ?
Question is in relevance on a MechMate set up / application, OBVIOUSLY :D

The way I see it is it’s always seem more fun & rewarding making a “more” calculated compromise, if I’m allowed to say compromise, when selecting a motor set for a CNC that will perform various but similar task : eek:

Again, many thanks for your patience and sharing some info.
It’s not because I’m French, it’s only because I need more info before I “gabish” :)
Amicalement, Robert ;)

Gerald D Sun 10 August 2008 21:04

Robert, you have tried to get me to answer these questions many times, and you should have figured out by now that I am not going to answer them. I do not have the experience to give a correct answer. Maybe you should try another forum?

Robert M Mon 11 August 2008 04:13

Sorry if I’ve worked on your patience Gerald, didn’t realize I’ve gone that far. Got blinded in this questioning after spending soooo many hrs this past week-end reading & searching for motor answers, Thanks ;)

Richards Mon 11 August 2008 07:54

When three motors have the same torque figures but different inductance figures, use the inductance data to compare the motors. The higher the inductance, the shorter the torque curve. In other words, if the application called for high torque at slow speeds, you would choose a motor that had higher inductance. On the other hand, if you needed the highest possible torque at faster speeds, you would choose a motor that had lower inductance.

Of course, you would have to do some testing. You would have to build several power supplies, or use an expensive Variac to alter the voltage.

Most companies spend a lot of time and development money testing various components in their search for the 'right' parts. Since it can easily cost thousands of dollars to thoroughly test electronics for a CNC router, I would strongly suggest that, if at all possible, buy the Oriental Motor stepper motors that everyone else is using. The cost of testing other motors will be much higher than paying for the Oriental Motor steppers.

Robert M Mon 11 August 2008 12:45

Mike, I’m Very grateful of your time in helping clarify this.
Amicalement, Robert ;)

dragonfinder1 Sat 27 September 2008 20:15

Quote:
Originally Posted by pksharma View Post
cbboatworks,
Did you get your M.K. moters ? What's the result ?
Has anyone installed these M.K. motors on any router yet? I can't see that anyone is talking about them anymore. Was this a good idea that just didn't work?

Dave

domino11 Sat 27 September 2008 21:32

Kobus used the motion king motors. Here is the post where he tells you which model number. Check out his build logs. :)

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...9&postcount=70

Robert M Sun 28 September 2008 06:22

Hi Dave,

I haven’t tested or installed nine as of yet, my work & other priorities has thrown some ice on my indented schedule.
One thing I can testified is they have an excellent service & shipment was within the promised window ( less than 3wks from payment ). When kitchen table will be completed & running, I will report on those.
Amicalement, Robert ;)

Kobus_Joubert Sun 28 September 2008 08:02

I am still happy with mine...no problem to report.

domino11 Sun 28 September 2008 17:54

Robert,
Did you go with the same model as Kobus?

Robert M Sun 28 September 2008 19:59

I decided to go with the 34H9802 !
Robert ;)


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