The better disk is the cheaper thinnest one.

Unless your angle iron is too tall to fit under the skate, and you need the cup to reach the 28mm?

My only doubt was quality of cut

The cup disk should give you slightly better control, because the disk will be a little bit stiffer (more rigid). But you cannot cut so deep with a cup disk. (It will have a shorter life). It looks like that thin cup disk is only available in Brasil. <----- note the "s" :)

Disk
 

Accurate.:)

As for spelling: until the 19th century at the time of the Empire (yes Brazil has an emperor - only in America) was written with a "Z". Officially today is with "S".

Similar cases with translations into Beijing.

Thanks Gerald / Kobus.

Y-rail (1)
 

After 4 hours of work :eek:

...I personally like the beer can. All good work should be rewarded. :D

I agree Sean.

I already have a collection for this project :cool:

What does "B" in drawing 10 20 246?

Rev B for Drawing 10 20 246 changed the location of the proxy switch target holes.

Are you talking of this B?:

Yes it is.

But not understand the function. Alignment?

Thanks Gerald

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=143

Used first for safety - the proximity switch (silver colour) senses the hole and stops the movement

Can also be used for electronic alignment (home position)

Wow sorry man :o

Pre-Prime
 

That dirt!

This is the best I could clean. It is possible to apply the Prime ?

Or should I leave the steel cleaner?

...looks ready for primer to me!

Any more polishing on those pipes and they'd be ready for chrome plating.:D

looking good:)

Looks good. Shoot it with clear! :D

More than enough grinding, but have you got all the grease off? For me it is more important to wash the grease away with a solvent or a detergent.

Thanks Sean, Greg and Marc. :cool:

Gerald,
Use solvent applied with HVLP.

After tetroxide of lead (Pb3O4).

Then painted in BLUE :D

Yuri, spraying solvent and then using a lead paint would be forbidden in countries with strict environmental laws. That is why those countries export their solvents and lead paints to us where we are still allowed to use it.

Detergent
 

Message received and understood Master ;).

Here the law should not allow this application. So I will apply the extra degreasing and degreasing and "Fostatizante" (the latter on rail 76x38mm).

I did not find the translation for "fosfatizante" (composition: inorganic acids, moist, surfactant and a corrosion inhibitor - Corrosive)

All this, since the weldingr passing through painting and completion of the project is new to me. The guidance from you is essential. :o

An application of primer and one or two of paint? :confused:

Phosphate coating is good.

For your own experience, why not test some samples? Use pieces of scrap steel and paint them with the process of your choice. When everything is finished, see if you can chip or scrape the paint off. It should not be possible to remove the paint except by grinding, burning or chemicals.

The paint is very important where we attach the gear racks - because they use the paint to hold them to the MM.

I thought about using a phosphate solution but the directions involved rinsing the parts with water after wetting them down with the solution. Couldn't get my mind past pouring water on a fresh clean sandblasted surface.:confused:

Applied the phosphate and washed with water.

This is the correct color?

I don't use phosphating so I don't know the colour connected with it. To me it looks like there has been some water rust and that is good - there is no grease on there. I would put on the paint now.

Primer
 

:eek: I have to train more ;)

Hi Yuri,

Real interesting color. It also looks like you are working in a real cramped space. I thought it was hard to work in my small garage. It must be real tough for you.
:)

Yuri, you should not be doing spray painting inside a room like that! Is it not possible for you to go and do it outside somewhere?

The mess is only one of the problems. Normally the final paint makes a much bigger mess than the primer. That paint gets in everywhere and you will not be able to clean it all away.

The biggest danger is your health. You have shown a mask with filters in a picture - I hope that you are wearing it!

But, also be careful of EXPLOSION! That concentration of paint in the air will only need a small spark and then suddenly you will have a much bigger room . . . . :eek:

If you cannot move it outside, the best option is to paint by brush - not by spray.

gazebo's work well......right J.R.?:D

Several years ago my brother repainted cars. We learned from the local authority that if you paint outside there are no restrictions. No problem with buildup of fumes, and even over-spray is kept to a minimum. We still wear a respirator. It takes about 20 min to setup my cover (gazebo), and it makes everything so much easier. Greg you are sooooo right the gazebo works really good.