wow,

Thats what i like to call beautiful mechmate blue :D

Keep those pics coming. . .

do some progres to day on the rest of the parts to be painted, but the paint i put on before the weekend sems to have somting like a cracing so i have to take all the paint off and repaint all, have talk to the store where i get the paint
and they will come and look at it, i think it can be that it is to hot to paint here now the tempratur is nearly 40 degreas at daytime, but this i told the stor when i bay the paint and they sad is was ok,
so to morrow i know what they think of the situasion in the mean time i work on the electronic and i have to addmit that ive bin addicted to the work at the hossmachine webside:Hoss Machine and the stuff he have done with his milling machine, so that i will try to build in to my MM too. That is because my MM is built for fun and a project for me as retierd.:)

Hi Selbuss

Nice progress.

Have you tried to connect your VFD with your PMDX-107 with success ?
I'm trying to make mine work with a USB to RS485 cable with no luck so far.

Sergio

Hi Sergio
No i have not connect i yet, want to be shure that i do it rigth before i connect it so i read the forum tracing if i can find somthing that make me shure, and i have not find new fittings for the watercooling yet so before i have that i will not do anything with the spindel, in the mean time i hope to find the rigth diagram for the electric,hope you get your spindel working soon :D

Selbuss, our climate is similar. There maybe 2 possble cause of your paint problem. 1stly, direct sunlight, this can bring the temp of the steel to over 90C even with ambient temp of 35~38C. 2ndly moisture, there can be 2 sources, from your compressor or from the atmosphere. If you have wet compressed air, its easy to solve by adding a moisture filter for your compress air line. Atmospheric humidity can be tricky if left unchecked, especially if you paint after a heavy down pour or leaving wet paint overnight in the outdoor. I don't know if you experience this, no doubt that ambient temperature at night is about 28~31C around this time of the year. but it can get as low as 25C in the dawn. Some times you get dew in the morning & can be quiet heavy at times.
One has to time one's painting schedule to go with the nature.
I prefer to start painting 2~3 hours before noon or after the dew are gone, apply the 1st coat & keep the job under shade until its dry to touch then apply the 2nd coat & leave to dry under shade before dust. Leaving it over night in the outdoor for further curing would not be a problem this way. As for me, I painted & cured mine indoors as I did had some space for that.

Hi Ken
Thanks for the advice
but i have clean air from the compressor and no direkt sunligth, the people from the paint shop com and look at paint and they say that it was wrong thinner for the paint so they will cost the repanting

Ouch... wrong tthinner.. who would thought of that...
BTW, found your gas spring yet?

not find the gas spring yet but i will try to find some at the lokal car dealers

testing HY VDF need help
 

can i test the VFD without the spindel connected ?
i have smootstepper and PMDX 125+ PMDX 107 speedcontrol,, have not get the waterpump for the spindell yet so i dont want to connect i before i have the pump

Hi Selbuss

Yes you can test the VFD without the spindle connected to it.
You can also connect the spindle without the water cooling circuit to it, as long as you keep it running for short periods (no more than 2-3 minutes).

a little progress
 

Thanks Sergio
then i will try it today and see if i can get it to work
the machine start to look like a machine, picks to follow:

Hi Selbuss,
nice progress with your machine. Please let us know how your combo of smoothstepper pmdx 125 and 107 work together.
Is it possible that the link you stated above should be www.hossmachine.info and not .com?

Greetings

Hi Claudiu
Yes you are rigth it is www.hossmachine.info
and i will come back when i have tested it out but i have to cnc my new machines from China too, first i take them apart and adjust them and it was fun to operate them when they was but back together
so now i do electronik for tre machine at the same time here are some pics:
Now i can make my own part for the MM

Jealous I am. :):cool:

Me too...please sir adopt me ;)

Hi Selbuss
nice work i've already have the same stepper motor but the dual shaft ones . i will connect them a bipolar parallel i've bought a PMDX-106 not the 107 one . how is your success with the pmdx-107. i won't buy the chinese VFD , i will go for delta one.

hi myousry

im not finish with my electronic and i will take time to read what i can abouth the object since i am new to this
my motor i go unipolar half coil in the beginning and see hove it works
my choice of the 107 was because i use PMDX-125 and they recomand it
my controlbox was to small so i think i use 2 controlbox one for the trafors and VFD and one for the electronicks
The smootstepper is not show on the pictures since i had not get it when i took the pictures
Have played with the smootstepper and BOB and ewerything work so far
but have not tested the motors and VFD yet
Have built electronicks for the X3 mill and C6 lathe from a G540 and tested it all works fine
Yesterday my new engine and and automatic transmission for the Buick arrived so i have to work with the car also;)

Hi Erik

Just a reminder since you are using the PMDX-125 as i am.
You are going to need a fat cable running to the y-car for those inputs,outputs...etc.
The reason is that in 125 the inputs don't share the same gnd as it was with 122 so every pin must have it's own gnd.
That means for 11,12,13,15 input pins you need an 8 core cable, adding the PMDX E-Stop and 1 output you find yourself with a 12 core cable, which by the way is what i used in my configuration. :D
Plan ahead for those I/Os when you come to the wiring cause you are going to need lot's of them.

P.S. Forgot to tell you that the 125 has also 2 relays J9 and J10 with 10 and 30 amps so it's a good idea to use them for saving some extra money for fancy SSR's and other relays.

i Sergio
When i tested it to day i can use the same gnd for 11,12,13,15 works fiine at my 125
but when i started up my spindel today at low speed i hade a scriming noise from the front bearing and it got varm after 20 sec
had a little problem with the 107 to get it to work but i manage at the end,
so now i have to dismantel the spindel for inspekting the bearing but i dont know hove to take it apart yet, i try to google it to see if someone have done that yet
as far as the test with the smootstepper+125+107 went well

Check this out.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...=101803&page=2

there are some photos, maybe helpfull to you.

Selbuss can you enlighten me? what is the use of the PMDX 108 (not sure if yours is input or output) used in combination with the PMDX 125 ? it adds extra pins? Im confused :) I already purchased a 125 and now Im not sure if I need the 108 or not.

Thanks!

hi Pablo
i bay the 108 input to get more buttons to play with when i make my controlboard
i want to use the MM without the computer if i can

hi selbuss i need a favour from you. could you check up the inner body of the spindle regarding the kind of metal that contains the water coolant system whether it's aluminum or anything else as there is a very important matter regarding the corrosion of the coolant system since your dismantle your spindle
thanks a lot

hi selbuss
by the way how are you going to cool your spindle by using a simple pump and buckets
or by using a radiator, reservoir ,and a pump

utdate of the spindel
 

I had to make some tools to take the spindel apart and after that i find that all the screws wer cut off that hold the backing plate so the plate follow the spindel when it rotate,luckely i dont run it more than a couple of sec. before i stop.After some strugling i get out the rest of the srew and the chinese srew was as soft as butte so i change it to hi grade srews, at the beginning i was afraid that the srews i put on was to hi head on but after meshuring the higth between the srews and the motorwindings i had 0.7 mm clearens so it was ok.
So now i have tested the spindel and all work OK.

Since i dont get the gecko when i order my drives i had to take a picture of one in live HE HE

Selbuss, care to share the bearing number?

hi Ken
yes i send it to morrow, have it on the computer at the workshop,
some china crap but i use it for now and bay new when i i go Bangkok

Hi Sergio,
Here is the feedback I got from Steve Stallings at PMDX:
"The extra ground pins on the J11 and J12 input connectors of the PMDX-125 are for convenience. They are all the same ground and you could use a single wire (core) to connect all of your switches back to the PMDX-125 board. The E-Stop signal can also share this ground, but I personally like to a dedicated ground for E-Stop for
the sake of clarity.

The output signals on J5 and J6 use PCground and this may not be mixed with the isolated ground on J11 and J12. This is implemented the same as the step and direction signals, that is, we are expecting the devices connected here to have their own signal isolation, or to not need isolation, for example a solid state relay.

The relay outputs on J9 and J10 are fully isolated and none of them are connected to any ground circuit within the board."

I'm just hoping it all starts to make sense when I get the parts :(
Regards
Red

Spindel bearings
 

hi Ken
Sorry for not give you the bearing number before, but have bin buzy
The front bearing (2 pcs) have this nr:

H7005C TN1-2RZ UTE 09111305-1

and back bearing 1 pcs:

B 7002 CETA-RZ

Red

You are right ! :D

What got me confused about the J12 gnd is this from PMDX-125 manual :

"6.0 Input Signals
6.1 General Purpose Inputs

.....Mechanical switches can be wired directly between the input pins on J11 or J12
and adjacent GND terminals.

.....WARNING - The PMDX-125 inputs are optically isolated from the PC-side ground.
The terminals on J11 and J12 marked "GND" are NOT the same ground as any
other connector on the board. Connecting any "GND" terminal on
connectors J11 or J12 to the "PCgnd" terminal on another connector will
defeat this isolation"

Also the thing that J12 GNDs are not having any continuity with each other
made me think that each GND has to be connected to it's adjacent pin.