Sure that will happen to me too :P way more than I want

Kudos to Rick, that seems to be close to shipping bearings, got a USPS-mail about it :)

Cant really say build is coming along but as said before, bearings ordered, getting parts from mr cncbasher soon (payment due in a few hrs), order for steel due in a few days.

And with all this time I decided color for the whole shabang and its yellow!
A small picture of the build in solidworks:
http://pici.se/thumbs/t_GCCBKpKOU.gif

Frallan,
Don't forget the cross bracing. Your model doesn't show the x-braces.

On the other hand it doesnt show everything else either, ergo, not done :P

Now everything I need for the base and mechanics is ordered, just electronics and motor related left, but It'll have to come later.

Planning electronics and might be going servoapproach (seems price wont differ that much from steppers and geckos, and I cant afford any of them atm anyway =) )


Spindlewise its going to be one of those watercooled spindles from china.
3kW one and might be getting a nice deal on Danfoss VLT 6011 (if it works after test)

And the build finally took off!

The steel is at the shop im working at.
http://pici.se/thumbs/t_ZWBWplThD.gif

And here is my first real progress :D
http://pici.se/thumbs/t_ohuQyNIIJ.gif

ITS ON BABY!

Hi Frallan,

nice work done so far. Now the real head scratching begins...:confused:
BTW what are you doing with that red prybar?

Good luck.
Claus

Good start Frallan! (Or do you prefer being called Marcus?)

Prybar is just for lifting the heavy stuff of the table to place "shims" under it so it doesnt just rely on the table being flat. That shit is heavy!

Well everyone calls me frallan so go with that :P

I do have a pondering, the legs are supposed to be placed some distance in from the large beam to allow welding, I used 5mm from the edge, is this ok?

Same for the crossbearers

Okay to use 5mm, instead of the 12mm on drawing 10 10 310 W, but then you need to adjust the length of part 10 10 306 S.

I might have thought this through more than I realize, using other profiles for legs than the U-ones. I get the correct distance when measuring the y+430 across the short side, so I guess I can do 5mm without changes. :)

More and more progress when my helper told me had started a bit earlier than I could arrive :P

http://pici.se/thumbs/t_IXMlLrZdY.gif

http://pici.se/thumbs/t_fPitEhaRM.gif

Hard to get slacking with the kick ass help :)

Today I tried to make some y-rails.

Cutting went smooth but the grinding failed miserably, even with the use of the jigg in the plans. So now im looking for alternatives or someone providing a better kit to use and grind with.

Hi Frallan,

please post some pics of the failure and describe what happend. Maybe we can learn from it! I`m also in the grinding process.:)

Heads up

Greetings
Claus

Frallan,

I agree with Claus. Share your results with us. You may help someone else. But, also, we may be able to point out how YOU can be successful. Many on this Forum have successfully ground the rails.

I assume you were using the JR skate. I assume you were using grinding disks with reasonable quality. The cheap ones wear quickly. I personally only used one disk. It was a Dewalt disk...it was about 6 mm thick.

Best of luck, whatever you decide to do next.

Ill post pics tomorrow, but describe now with as much info as possible,

Discs are good Q inox-discs and they arent very worn out despite the 2 rails.

It ground very unevenly, even despite tightened against the iron. some places it was too much, some places to little. Couldnt get skate working nicely at all.
I thought I sorted it out on the second rail, but still jiggly and loose despite tightening.

Ended up with a nice second failed rail and a nice cut in the hand by the angle grinder.

So how do you ppl do it to get it done ok?

heya,

Did you had in total 8 ball bearings and could you make them well tight on the reel?

In my case I could move the skate about 20-30 degrees still, but with a spirit leveler I could manage it by hand to keep it quite straight well over the complete reels.

it sounds like in your case the skate is to wiggly, moving to much, I might be wrong?

Second, don't grind to much in one run. adjusting takes some time and you need to make sure you use the whole disk for grinding.

Last not but least, grind slow by moving the skate very slow over the metal

I believe there are some youtube videos about this.. if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Ries

I found it useful to put a handle on the skate at 90 degrees to the grinder so that I could guide the skate with both hands.

I also tightened the bearings against the rail that I was grinding so that there was very little wiggle. I let the grinding wheel "pull" the skate along the rail. Going in this direction takes less metal off per pass, but the grinding wheel does the work of pulling the skate along the rail. That way you can be attentive to the angle of the grinder and not have to exert as much pressure against the grinder.

And as Ries says, take only a little metal off per pass. Use many passes.

This is very useful! I've read about successful stories of rail grinding mostly but I find it as beneficial to learn about the "don't" before I put my grinder to work.
Thanks!

I'll just add that I always wore my welding gloves during this operation -> and one of them has the scar, instead of me.

A back and forth motion worked quite well for me, going generally in the direction the
grinder wants to go. So let the grinder walk from 0" to about 14" or so ( a comfortable stroke for me), pull it back to 2", walk to 16", back to 4", etc. For the first few passes over any location, it would ride up, taking a very light cut. Then ride back down, again with a light cut on the backstroke. I'd know a section was done when it stopped riding up. All of the above was for a roughing pass to get close.

Then, with the stops dialed up just a hair more, I did a finishing pass, again back and forth, but without allowing any riding up.

http://pici.se/thumbs/t_dTPjAKzCy.gif
Result of one of my rails. It was very odd to do them, the rig was both jiggly and still hard to move sometimes. So I guess I have some metal now to practice on :)

I looked at the picture, but I could not clearly see the problems. I copied the picture to my hard drive and zoomed in on various parts of the rail...didn't help much. If you have a "micro" option on your camera, perhaps you could take a close-up of a "good" section of the rail and a close-up of a "bad" section of the rail.

From what little I can see in the picture, it looks like the grinder is riding-up as you make the pass. Are you able to hold the grinder down on the guide bolts throughout the entire pass?

Well the issue is probably just that I dont know if its 45 degrees or not.
So at some places it grinds off more and some less. The angle varies and the 1mm flat on top is all from 1.4-0.8mm wide.

Ill try to get a nice spirit level and then try some on the failed rails. Otherwise I might ask the ppl where I work with it if they can mill the rails for me.

frallan,

from what I read it looks like you tried to grind of to much in one pass and you didn't tighten the ball bearings tight enough on the rails. The spirit level help a lot for me to get things even better.

That said, I have seen some rail grinding here on the forum that looked really awesome, my rails are not good as that!

But I can always cut a couple of mm off and grind them again :)

Ries

Finally a new update

The cart welded up and done
http://pici.se/thumbs/t_YeXQmPHkh.gif

And the gantry!
http://pici.se/thumbs/t_IddHfEWqQ.gif

Next on the list, weld plates with machine feet on the rig, then move it home.

Hello Frallan,

nice to see some news from you. Good progress.
Did you countersink the holes on the endplates?

Claus

Nope, but I see no issue doing it afterward, checked and doublechecked, even though a bit more issue :)

Off-topic, did I change my threads topic or what happened? :P

I change the thread topics to keep up with what is really happening in the thread.

Ah ok I see :P

Then id say all welding is done.

Now is just the transport home left. Will be fixed the coming week, with the use of a truck + forklift :)