I plan on getting the velocity meter again. Still have some buttoning up to do. The initial sound testing was impressive. I wish I would of had the dB meter for the before and after. Before the old unit was loud enough I had to talk in an loud voice (not quite shouting) by the Mechmate and now I can stand next to the cyclone and speak with a normal voice. Sound deadening the plenum after the blower, creating the free standing unit and separation with hose between really makes a difference. I elected for a wood base instead of steel to help eliminate the resonance that would have been created by hollow wall pipe or tubing that the legs would have been made out of if it was metal.

The duct work. Did you draw that on the sheet with the MM? Did you cut it out by hand? Also did you use a metal break to make the bends?

Cool build on the dust collector!

Yes, I drew it with the Mechmate. I did cut it out by hand both with snips and power shears. I used a break to make the evolution (square to round) piece and a roll former the large cylinder but most was formed by hand with wood with clamps and pvc pipe.

What software was used to draw the parts?

I think he said Aspire in an earlier post, but the software might be different for this one.

I drew most up in cad then imported into Aspire to make the toolpaths.

If anyone needs some transition developed or anything else that is in the scope of this software
http://www.plate-n-sheet.com/

I have access to it and can help :)

Good tip.

I used this here for the transition. Only thing is it only generates butt joint dxf files. You have to edit the file to add tabs if you need it.

good work.

So I build a fine dust collection system and the first thing I cut is not wood related. I needed some feet for a steel Futon I have had for 10 years in storage. Now I have these. Not hard or complicated just functional.

I ordered this plastic 2.000"h x 1.750"w x 0.060"d 30.5mm legend plate at work wrong for a machine we are rewiring for a robot. I only specified the lettering 'DRIVE SPEED'. I forgot the rest of the markings and when the label came in I was cursing for forgetting to order the right thing and my fellow co-worker said 'You could make those all day at home'. I told him I could fix it easy enough. He obviously said 'They aren't paying you, you don't do it'. I agreed, but the challenge got the best of me. Since it was junk anyway and we were going to throw it out I wanted to see if I could do it. So I drew up the graduations in Aspire and made the toolpath using a 30° 0.005" engraving bit. I took my time to get the datum right on. Then I started to cut and Oh No. I oriented the piece in the wrong direction. So I stopped the program and took it then colored in the cut lines with permanent marker and oriented correctly. I ran the program again. This was the result. If not for the mistake in the beginning. You would never had known it was not ordered that way.

It just goes to show that with a little imagination just about anything can be made on a MechMate, very good Pete.

Air Velocity Readings at port inside the shoe. Some reduction but not as much as I expected. Then again, the original test was with coiled flex hose. With the velocities that are reading, I am happy with the end result especially compared to the original findings.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/1...d61f95ac70.jpg
Right Side; 9255 LFM; 807.6 CFM, on Flickr

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2894/1...9a1abaea99.jpg
Center; 6790 LFM; 592.5 CFM, on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/1...dc169e2cfc.jpg
Left Side; 9590 LFM; 836.8 CFM, on Flickr

I don't know how to make sense out of these number. Most appreciate if you would elaborate.

Sure Ken, the base number I would use as average is 600 CFM. The other numbers are to me like inrush. The air velocity will always be highest at the edge of the inlet and most stable in the middle. I always do a check of 4 places along the edge of any pipe to verify I am am getting a even reading, this verifies the air is moving equally in from all directions. The calm suction in the middle is the conveying portion of the flow. My shoe ideally would be made so the envelope was to have the air pocket perfectly around the cutting tool so the center of the 600 CFM was aimed at the cutting tool. This way the higher velocities from the edge would be able to help assist in pulling the dust and debris moving at a high rate of speed back to the middle. Something I would like to work on further improving later. I use a reduction to 4" duct to go to the shoe. This gives me a higher air velocity but keeps my 6" main duct LFM at 4000 LFM. If I used 6" the whole way I would have 800CFM but my air velocity drops to a little over 4000 LFM. CFM is important but so is LFM (velocity). I liken it to using a 24" duct with 1000 CFM but it only moves 320 LFM. This would have no conveying properties. I have actually seen this in one of the manufacturing plants I worked at where the main trunk line was 24" and the dust and debris would fill and plug the duct over the course of a year and every year they paid a company to clean the ductwork. They eventually reduced the trunk line down to smaller size and it virtually eliminated the dropout in the main trunk and improved overall performance.

Thanks Pete, its clear to me now. look like your dust shoe is a winner!.
Now... do I want to do something about mine... hmmmm

I was playing around with importing and exporting with Aspire. In the process I exported as a wavefront object from Aspire with a tolerance of 0.0001". I imported this into Blender, set the camera and rendered the object. I was surprised with the image with just the preset settings. So I tried the Christmas project and this is the rendered result.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/1...dda18e4d_c.jpg
blenderRenderChristmas, on Flickr

I can see where this could prove useful for different views and lighting. Coupled with different backgrounds it would be helpful I think.

Your opinions?

I'm no too familiar with the blender thing but the rendering certainly looks cool.

This was my first trial at using render. I liked this one. I definitely gave me a better look at the part.


http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3720/1...f1279399_c.jpg
blenderRendered , on Flickr

I like that Pete, I like that a lot.
Well done.

Working on further developing the 3D laser scanner and needed a reduction. So I thought I can cut out some gears. I took some scrap plastic and made these. Each pass was 0.083" cut at 60 IPM with an 1/8" upcut Onsrud bit. The cyclone is working great too. I see mounds of plastic in the barrel.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/1...72a926c2_c.jpg
Gears, on Flickr

Nice, Nice, Nice!!

I have the reduction assembly together just waiting on other components. Arduino Uno, Big Easy Stepper and a small stepper motor to be here tomorrow. Sure to be a learning curve but my original test proved promising using a servo for a telescope I have for moving the laser. Need something more dedicated to further my creations for the Mechmate.

The gears in action in the development stage.

Video

Very Cool, Pete.
You could put what I know about arduinos on the period at the end of this sentence, but I think I need to learn more.
I spotted the interlocking puzzle laying there too. :)

Darren, they are no different than any other controller. Programming it is easier than programming an Oriental Motor SCX11 controller. It has been a fun project so far.

Worth looking at....Gearotic

Love that site.
Fascinating stuff

Nice to see Art is still at his best work!!

Those who have spindles, this is the best I have found for pricing on a set of collets for a ER20. http://www.maritool.com/Collets-ER-C...duct_info.html

I should have posted this before but I lack the ability to always remember to take before and after pictures and videos. Here is a difference between the noise level of a 7518 router and a 2.2 kW wc spindle. Sorry no decibel meter. :(

http://img.youtube.com/vi/cHpGQGuEJyI/0.jpg Click the image or here

Big difference.
Thanks for taking the time to post that.

Sure, no problem.

Darn ATC that blurry customs posted has me rethinking the superPID I just ordered....

Pete,

I did not buy a complete set of collets because most of them I do not use. I bought individual collets, I have 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 3/8. I happen to use the 1/4 and 1/2 99% of the time and I bought an extra nut.

I bought Techniks manufactured collets from All Industrial Tools Supply. I am happy that I did not buy a complete set.

I am very happy that I no longer use a router and have an air cooled spindle.

My 2 or 3 cents input.

Very nice.
One of these days I will get one.
The wife is getting fed up of washing ear plugs.
Perhaps I should get her to watch the video.:D

So this is how to influence the wife, huh...

Nils,

I have a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 collet. I just ordered the 1/8 last night. The only reason I could see for having a full set is for drilling with carbide drill bits on rare occasions. Most of my needs are accommodated with standard sizes I have listed above. It was more of an informative post than I bought this.

The spindle upgrade is worth it in many respects. Whether you choose Fan Cooled or Water Cooled is a preference from what I have seen. There are more options with the fan cooled versions from what I have seen. ATC being one of them. Both have there strengths and weaknesses but it is a choice that we must make on our own. For me as a hobby, ATC is not an issue. For most of you with a business, it might be. The minute it takes me to change the tooling is not an issue for me.

And your 2 - 3 cents is always appreciated.

Pete,

Thanks

Most people do not recommend that you drill that much with a spindle. The bearings are not meant for upward pressure.

Nils,
The bearings are high precision contact angular bearings. I would not be afraid of drilling as Bridgeport mills (J2 and Series II) that I have replaced spindle bearings on use only a single set of high precision contact angular bearings with an additional radial bearing for the quill. This arrangement is not much different than the high speed spindles. If they did not allow for upward or downward forces, some of the plunges plus the upcut and downcut tooling would really wreak havoc over the spindle.

I would think the reason for not drilling is more because high speed steel bit speeds are not even close to the low end of a the high speed spindles. Coated carbide drills have a much higher speed. I have used a lower speed for drilling soft plastic before but not wood as it is too damaging for the bits. Most times I would make an alignment bore with a cutter to be able to use a drill to finish to a given depth.