Greg,

Beautiful work!:)

Question. How do you hold the piece down when you've routed one side and flip it over to route the other side?

Regards,
John

Those are darn nice!

I would have called them nut dishes . . . . . but then I hear you have to put your nuts on them before you go to bed :eek:

hello greg, nice work.

which method is to focus unequal sides?

Example in equal sides: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qmZMq8bbn4

Greg,

Those are very nice. The women getting them will enjoy.

:D:D:D:D:D:D I've got some important meetings today. If people notice me chuckling for no apparent reason, it's all your fault. :)

I was using screws in the "waste" areas. But, the last one's were just held in place with scrap material screwed down. Nothing holding in the Z axis. Had no problems.

Ros,

I'm running late and the process is a little tricky. I'll respond in detail tonight.

To "focus unequal sides" is maybe what we would call register or registration. Printing registration. Our method is similar to the pin-hole method in that link . . . .

In your cutting program, you sink a 6mm [1/4"] cutter right through the border scrap all the way into the table top. Then you put dowels through those holes. Flip over and go back to the known dowel holes.

I used Vectric's Cut3D to produce those parts.

The most critical issue was to have the Y dimension of the base material exact in Cut3D (the model). The top is machined first, then flip the part over (around the Y axis) and machine the bottom.

If the Y dimension of the Cut3D model is not exact (+ or - .001") with the actual material, then the top and bottom will not match. I do not have a set of calipers large enough to measure the actual material after ripping on the table saw. The table saw is set at 7.75", but it measures 7.788".

But, I do have a large set of calipers. The MechMate :) I fastened the base material to the MM table and zeroed (refall) all axis's. I just measured the Y dimension to within .001".

I know that was quick, but if anyone needs further details, just ask.

Beautiful work Greg!

3D Elk in MDF
 

I wasn't going to post this, but, I've been derelict in my duties recently when it comes to posting pictures. :o

Below is a Youtube link of a 3D Elk cut in MDF. Feedrate = 300 ipm. The rough cut was done with a 1/2" dia. End Mill. The finish cut is with 1/8" tapered ball nose bit.

I'll make one from Walnut today and post in the show room when done.

Amazing cut quality. Gerald, you should change the "introduction" page. It says the MM is good for everyday cutting of plywood (or something like that). This machine is much more. Wait till you see the doors I'm going to make. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnCZ1HwYv_Q

Greg J

That is looking very good. That is a large 1/8 tapered ball nose. Could you provide more details on the bit such as manufacturer and model #.

Nice video looks like HD.

The MDF version looks fantastic. Please post the walnut before you finish it.

At last! Someone has done a decent video! :D

Greg, that is brilliant stuff. You have got the machine flying very nicely for the 3D stuff. (The front page stays as is - it is for the average Joe. But, in the right hands, it will blow your socks off. :))

...ahh the wonders of 3D cutting.
Greg,
Would you mind telling me what you have your Mach3 settings are?
Most importantly, the CV and arc settings.
I can't get my machine to move that quick on the z transitions....you must be doing something right! :)
Sean

Thanks Guys.

I was impressed with the motion also. I know the MM can handle higher feedrates for 3D work, but I've been having too much fun making stuff, and no time to experiment. When I start making doors, the cut times will be in the 8 hour (or longer) time frame and will force me to optimize (speed things up). Stay tuned. :)

The Z travel was slower than the X travel so it might be a Cut3D (Vectric product) attribute. I didn't see any obvious setting in Cut 3D that might affect that. I'm happy with Cut3D, but I may purchase RhinoCAM to experiment more. Still have homework to do.

The Mach settings should be the defaults. I'm not that smart to start changing things. :o But here's what I've got in the General Settings,

Motion Mode - Constant Velocity
Distance Mode - Absolute
Angular Properties - A-Axis is Angular
CV Control - No Box is checked

In the motor tuning settings,

Velocity - 300 ipm
Accel - 15 in/sec/sec

The cutting bit is an Onsrud 77-102. Expensive, but they are the best and I couldn't find any other with the dimensions required. Those bits have a 1 degree angle and 1 1/2" CL.

I'll post a picture of the Walnut before finishing. Anything for the MM men :D

Greg,

Looks great. What size is it? How long did the finishing tool take? What kind of stepover did you use, 10%?

I love doing 3d with my MM.

Mike

Greg,
That is pretty awesome. Cant wait to see it in a fine wood. :)

Below is the youtube link of the 3D Elk in Walnut.

I used a 3% stepover, so it took forever.:o I'll optimize stepover during the week. I did optimize the feedrate for the best finish. With the Milwaukee at it's highest setting (20K rpm, ?, I forget), the feedrate was best at 66 ipm. A faster FR showed a slight vibration and probably is OK, BUT 66 ipm is perfect requiring zero sanding.

Mike - the size is 10 inch X 10 inch. I agree, 3D work on the MM makes for a nice Sunday evening. Along with a New Mexico sunset and cold beer. :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOywV3wF0Xw

Nice Greg,I would like to see the doors.

Greg

For those of us in the backwoods with VERY SLOOOW internet connection, could you post some pics to appreciate, thanks ;)

This is what we are seeing:

Attachment 5662

This is my download speed from youtube.


Attachment 5663

Greg J.

Fantastic cutting and I like the texture you added.

What kind of camera are you using?

Are those circles registration pin holes?

Tells us more.

Morning Nils,

I'm using one of those flip video cameras. Google/bing "flip video".

The holes are just where I screwed the walnut down. A 1/2" end mill goes thru screws like butter. So I've been told :o

The 3D model is a Vectric product and I modified it with Rhino. The G Code was generated with Cut3D (Vectric product).

Greg,
I have say - great work.
The flip - for those who don't own one - is the best, solid state shop video camera you can own. Simple. Quick. Cheap!

I highly recommend this for anyone who needs a dirty environment video camera under 150 dollars.

Mr. Richards,

BYU 14, OU 13

Nice win and great game. Congrats.