A few pictures of my most recent job. I'm not the builder, I just cut it out. This is a .25 scale of a 32' long and 12' beam Carolina style boat. The model is 8' long. The real thing (full size) is in the sheets stacked under the scale model.

Interesting lines, big flare at the bow and a little tumble home at the stern.

I remember that first warehouse you showed pictures of .......... it's plenty big enough for you to build one of these in? The process is called "cold mold". With 2 of the largest Yamaha 4 cycle I was told it will do around 60 mph. It's also made for 1 or 2 inboards.

JR,
Looks like you are really working your machine lately. :) Are you going to cut one for yourself? :cool:

Heath the plan is to cut and sell frame kits. I'm doing the cutting for Gene, he's doing the selling.
The boat is built on these frames then turned right side up and they are removed.
Not sure about building one, if I did it would be with a few other folks and we would for sure 'sell it'. Any idea what it cost to dock and fuel one of these things. :o I'm told completely finished the price can be up to $300,000.00 US depending on how it is equipped. :cool:

J.R. since this design has the same name as my wife where can I google to see what the finished product looks like, would like to show her something that is related to her name.Must tell you, had a 18 foot cabin boat nice for fishing but not cheap to run with the fuel prices and eventually became a white elephant.it ended up funding some parts for my MM and some tools.

Hennie try these

http://www.shearlineboatworks.com/in_the_shop.asp
http://www.islandstyleyachts.com/yachts.cfm
http://www.marlinmag.com/article_print.jsp?ID=54610
http://www.yachtworld.com/hutchinsyachtsales/

Thanks!

Nice! boats

Hi JR,
Take a look at may 4th Axis Indexer Timing Pulley made easy program at:
http://www.cad2gcode.com/pulley
Love your Router, makes me want to build one too.
Bob

This is the latest addition to my router bit collection. I was spending a lot of time making drill bit holders, for drilling simple holes. Today the light bulb came on. It works very good. The 1/2" shaft has to be threaded on a lathe to keep run out to a minimum. This chuck takes a 1/2"
x 20 thread, the capacity is 0" through 3/8". The drill bit in the picture is 1/16"

Pin chucks are also useful.

Gerald with small bits I'm drilling @ 100 ipm. Would a pin chuck hold the bit tight enough to keep it from slipping? If the answer is yes then I will either make one or see if I can find one. I like how small they are. The one like mine is big but can use bits up to 3/8". I think you're right both would be useful.

Never used one either for CNC myself, just wanted to mention that a smaller device, similar to your idea, is out in the market somewhere. I would be hesitant to buy on the cheap side because they may be eccentric - would trust a self-made one, or one made by that JR bloke though. :)

Did buy myself one of these a couple of weeks ago:
http://www.usshoptools.com/current_y...GS_176_180.pdf
and a set of smaller metric collets. Here is the order:

Quantity: 1
Description: 16-SET10 Metric set of 10 ER-16 collets @ $115-00

Quantity: 1
Description: S-E16R06-31N-R collet extension, ER-16, diam.625" X 3.15"long shank, @ $75-00

Havn't had a chance to use it yet.

Are you using it for stitching holes for that boat your building?

Gerald I really like those things. I'll put them on my wish list.

Hennie the full size frames (32') had 1/4" holes to bolt angle alu to. Well the person I cut them for wanted a 25% scale model (8'), so I needed to drill 1/16" holes. I think instead of trying to bolt angle to them, that would be a mighty small screw, he will use wire to hold the batting strips until the resin cures.

An example of stitch & glue boat building

Yesterday I resurfaced my 49" X 97" spoil-board @ 1000 ipm using a 1" bit, cutting 3/4" wide and .040" deep, it took less than 8 min. What a beautiful sight. I had soft limits turned on so it started ramping down about 10" from the ends, made a U turn then back to 1000 ipm.

Careful now JR . . . . . . . . there is a big risk in this . .
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everyone is going to nag you for a video :D

Someone say Video !!:D
That’s a very nice idea !!
Yep, go for it JR, let us see this F1 of yours !:eek:

v id e o video VIDEO common JR dont tease us and then leave us empty handed.. :D

OK,
Well, Im not asking for a video. :) Thats for sure! I would watch it though.

What RPM were you cutting at? 20,000 ?

Geez,at those speeds, it didn't start a fire? ;):D

A Vid would be cool.

Next time I resurface the table, I will video. In the meantime this is the tap file. I do not suggest you run it on your machine, it is configured for mine. However if you do, you do so at your own risk.

This is not a zip file, it only has a zip ext so I could upload it. Simply change the .zip ext back to .tap and read it in 'notepad'.

This was the first time I used soft limits with a cut file. Every other time when the warning box came up that says "you are in soft limit areas, continue, yes, no"...... I always chose no and turned off soft limits. Well I am here to tell you I won't turn it off anymore ............ it worked great. My suggestion is if you don't have 'soft limits' setup in Mach, take the time to do it.

Greg, 3 to 1 trans, 20 tooth sprocket .... ??? I don't know, I just built the thing. ;-) no fire, not even warm. Now that it's broke-in I might try cranking it up next time.

Greg I just gave a little thought to the rpm thing and I believe the motors are only turning about 1000 rpm @ 1000 ipm. If I'm wrong on this somebody needs to straighten me out. ;)

Oops, sorry J.R.,

My question was concerning the cutting bit RPM. :o

Greg I reread you post and now it's so obvious to me that you were talking about the router rpm, can't explain why it hit me as stepper rpm the first time. :o:o:(:confused: And yes the router was running @ 20,000 rpm.

still awaiting your video JR... not cool!!!

Er, Brian, JR said: "Next time I resurface the table, I will video."

Re-surfacing of tables does not happen that often.