That's awesome...My old machine was definitely not as rigid as a Mechmate (number 1 reason I'm building one :-) )
The setup you've cut should be pretty slick...the interchangeable bottom plates gives bunches of options

I built a dust shoe for a 6040 chinese CNC router some years ago. I used the brushes of a 2$ broom. You can easily pull each brush apart and simply insert it on holes in the shoe with a tiny flat screw driver.
Very cheap and you can choose the stiffness of the brush, the length, "density"...etc to match you needs.

Have a look at that video. Exactly what I have done.

OK, Dust shoe: magnets and alignment pins all epoxied in, I'll paint them this weekend...
Strip brushes ordered and will be here Tuesday.
(FYI, 36" brushes fit the groove length with about 2" to spare.)
I'm thinking Safety Yellow on the parts, and I'll probably paint the dust pipe black while I'm at it....

Hope to work on the SuperPID too.

Of note, I eliminated the speed controller on the old Milwaukee 5625 router, as part of the prep for the SuperPID, and it was indeed the faulty part.

NOW, I just ordered a JoeWoodworker.com project EVS vacuum press kit.
I'll probably make some gasketed Corian pucks for vacuum holddown use on the MM, as well as some vacuum clamps for seaming Corian countertops for bars I do in basement finishes.

Please put up some pictures of the vacuum setups here...that is some interesting stuff!

"Man you're always having fun". I've got a vacuum pump 17 years ago for a veneer bagging (back in the day) and it can be used for clamping as well I wonder if I could set up a puck clamp with it as well, hmm. The corian would be perfect, consistant thickness (well for the most part) solid and durable. I'm certain it will work, I'll have to try it a bit later on.

Well, Tom, lets say just the fun stuff makes it on here.
I was spray finishing a table top yesterday that has been the bane of my existence.
Done as a favor, I'm 10 hours deep into it and still not done, and of course the spray gun spit out something on the last pass.
Prior coat fish eyed, coat before that, I sanded through the stain... all as a freebie for a friend.:o
Also yesterday, when doing an inlay for text for a sign, there is a BIG difference between .011 pocket allowance for the letters and .11...Brain fade.:o

Happy note, new dust feet are complete waiting on strip brush.
Usually the materials are here waiting on me to find time to get to them.

There is some pretty good clamping info and puck machining info as close as a Google search, and if the Corian isn't perfect thickness.....you have a machine to make it so.

Now, for my Sunday enjoyment, time to go sand a table top, respray, and remake some pocketed letters.....instead of working on a SuperPID..

A good turn never goes unpunished.

And the funny thing is "friends" will never understand how much trouble you actually went through.

Next time you need to move...or a ride to the airport...or heck, change a tire...you know the first "friend" to call ;-)

So the JoeWoodworker kit will be here Thursday, and I've been planning the build of the vacuum setup. Lo and behold, the disposable compressor I bought for 49 dollars a few Black Fridays ago gave up the ghost today and wont build over 15 lbs. Probably a broken reed valve, but not worth tearing into.
While browsing the JoeWW site, I see these have been used by others for vacuum storage in lieu of building the suggested PVC tanks.
By a stroke of luck, the compressor died BEFORE I started instead of the day after, so I now have a headstart on the project. Convenient.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/...psvggjblqz.jpg

Never thought of bad luck as convenient but I do see your point. :rolleyes:

Spent the weekend and every night after work this week working on a big project with the MM.
Finished up this evening, but I have to wait a few days for the reveal.
First project 100% toolpathed in Aspire and cut out on the MM.
Whole shop full of tools sat unused while the MM quietly turned out parts that looked like a jigsaw puzzle, using 7 full 4x8 sheets of 1/2" AZEK.
Here is a teaser pic showing letter inlays...
I'll be able to post the rest after the grand opening...
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/...psb8154f05.jpg

It looks like T + Beer = No Hangover !

Then again what do I know :D

That's a PVC product, is it not? How does it machine?

If you can find suction gauges to match the diameter of the old pressure gauges, you already have your "instrument panel":-)

Tom, it is indeed a PVC product.
I glue it with clear medium PVC cement. 3-4 minutes and you cant move it, much like gluing PVC pipe.
It machines very well using a faster feed rate and slower RPM than wood.
Depending on the bit, you have to try a few samples to make sure you are making chips and not melting the product back onto itself.

I'll have to try some out, is it expensive?

Around here, a 4x8x1/2" sheet is 100 bucks. You can buy dimensional lumber sizes cheaper, just to try a small project on.

They make it 1.25 in thick for milling, not sure of the cost

Interesting...
I'll call my lumberyard rep on Monday and get a price.

Yeah check out their website under trim, no it's called rtm-ready to mill

Already did before my last post. Have a project it would be good for.

Cool factor!
 

Thats what's its all about sometimes!

Well guys, sitting here on a quiet Sunday afternoon thinking about my basement and the bar I'd like to build for myself.....
I ran across this image online, and I'd like to do a ceiling similar to what is shown.
I'm thinking either MDF or EPS foam carved to look like an old stamped tin ceiling would be WAYYYYYYY cool.
The flat panels would be easy, I could even use some of Vectrics premade models.
My thoughts are coming up with a way to do the crown molding, especially the curved part is where I'll struggle.
This would be painted off white, so joints could be caulked/filled...
Before I jump in with both feet...
Anybody have any ideas or insight into something like this?


Oh yeah, since its my own project, expect a snail like pace.... I'm thinking I'll have all spring/summer/fall to get the panels and trims carved, for next winters project.
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/...psb4ccf33a.jpg

I wish I could offer something more. MDF is heavy and in a basement setting. Even with a control humidity level, it will want to draw moisture unless you take extreme care to make sure it is sealed. I think the EPS would be the better option in that environment.

If you are using aspire you should be able to do the curved crown molding with little problem. Use the two rail sweep feature. Of course you are limited to your table size and how you can lay it out best. You most likely will have to do in several sections. If your panels are flat with no profiles then best to use bendy board and veneer much quicker and adjustable. Otherwise, if raised panels, you are limited to the shaper head (or router) profile limitations, jig set up, etc, if the depth of the panel is not too great than you may be able to do them on the MM. Unless you want to do it old school by hand. If applied moldings around the panels, then sometimes you must employ steam bending methods.

I've done several panel/beam type ceilings in basements with MDF without problems, and almost all the paint grade door and trim packages have been MDF... some going on 10 years.
I think if there is enough humidity to cause problems, something is wrong..
It was brought to my attention that that mush EPS in a fire situation would be more hazardous with regards to fumes than the MDF, which I hadn't considered.

Tom, how would one do the curved crown profile with all the carved elements using a two rail sweep?
I've not done a lot of complex 3D work with Aspire (yet)..

What is the ceiling made of that you are attaching this to? Is it paneled or just open joists? Will this be fastened or glued? Steam bending is the only way I know to get true bends however you could draw the entire ceiling area in a program like Solidworks if you have it and separate it into the size of your table with each sheet interlocking into the next.

Which version of Aspire to you have. With 4 the extrude and weave is an awesome feature.

Check out the file here http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12375

I have 4.0, Pete.
Actually 4.5, as of last Thursday.
I saw the post you referenced, and I can wrap my mind around making a smooth crown, but I'd like to do a carved crown with some egg and dart or similar carvings on it to up the wow factor.. (of course. ;) )
I'm going to a 3 day Aspire camp in May, hopefully I'll be able to step up my game a notch above stupid beginner..:o Maybe I'll take this above pic along.

To answer your other question, Pete,
The room will be drywalled first, then the sheets could be glued/nailed to the framing through the drywall.
I could always sheet the room in OSB, instead of drywall, then nail wherever I wanted.
Thanks for the input guys, its much appreciated.

The instruction videos cover it pretty well but there is also a 2 rail sweep video here

Aspire is powerful. But try to think of your 3D area as all pieces of a big puzzle. All multiple layers in a 3D space. When you piece it all together, you have a great work of art. Remember a great piece of art such as a painting started with a single brush stroke. No different when you are working in a 3d environment.

Thanks, Pete.
The weak link in all this is the 48 yr. old operating system.. namely me.
I'm watching the video now.
I'm wondering if, after I profile the crown shape with the two rail sweep, if I could apply my carving as a texture, to the crown surface, using the boundary tool?

The operating system isn't weak, it just needs rebooted. The problem with getting old is we forget to think young. The young learn through mistakes and missteps but that does not stop them, they push on. We all need to remember that.

Darren, I haven't got that far yet either, but as I dig into it deeper I'll let you know something. If its super detailed with under cuts you'll need a 5 axis MM.:D Just being able to make a reversed crown on a curve would have saved 100's of man hours on a job years ago, all done by hand, that's when I realized I needed a cnc.

Thanks for the reminder, Pete.

Tom, I've been thinking about undercuts, and I don't think I need to get THAT elaborate..

Thanks again for taking the time to offer your input, its guys like you and all the rest that make this a great place to hang out.

If being young means mistakes and missteps, I can't be more than tree' years old! :)

If you do the crown as a two rail sweep, then do the carvings as a separate component, you can have Aspire place an array of components along the crown.

It's hard to see in the pic, but from what I can see on the straight side pieces, there will be undercuts, as you'll be machining it upside down. It really depends on how detailed the carving is and how steep the face of the crown is.