If I have all the spare cahs to splurge, this will be my choice

BUT since I'm poor & stingy, this is definately plausible. Will use a paper carton box instead of the barrel this time...

Ken you need a disclamer on the second link. Like not safe for some work. I have some explaining to do in the morning.

Sorry Russel, should had been more considerate before posting.
Not that I have any associations with them. I always find these cannabis really creative with their work! Sorry if anyone don't like to associated with them.
These guy are not any pot heads on the street! They are on the cutting age of agro science! They are prolific with aerophonic, hydroponic, grow tropical plant in deep freeze Arctic! AND art of camouflage!

Hi Ken

The first design is not at all appropriate for a dust collector, it is a baffle system that would be used for exhaust gas not an air stream with particles in it.

The second design is on the money though with a straight through rolled wire pipe and glass fiber damping around that straight pipe.

Regards
Ross

I do think the first design is relavent, but only if there is a cyclone or separator upstream. yes, it will eventually choke up, but that calls for routine emptying the buffer.

Anyway I'll build one that is similar with the second, but not with fiberglass mat but some oil palm fiber or coconut fiber, for 2 reasons, 1) they are free 2) no health issue.

Went back to EMC2.3
This time I setup the Single button Touch-off probe following this to the dot...

Ken,

you can always take a look in my files because I added all that stuff to my mechmate aswell.

Do make sure you have a opto-coupler between your PMDX/Breakoutboard and the connections of the mill and touch plate so you are sure nothing 'evil' can break your electronics.

Ries

Ries,
I did check up your files & really impressed.
The next thing to do is the game pad jogging & other remote controls. Do you recon using wireless is suitable? we only turn on the wireless when we need to do remote joggign i.e. during set up & end of job...

Ken,

getting a remote game-pad is still on my TODO, I have seen the wire thing here for 7USD, but I didn't see a wireless device, I will look for it one of these days. If I find one for a reasonable price I will implement that and write down how I did it.. A friend of mind told me it wasn't that hard to do...

Ries

My spindle holder came loose from the Z-slide slide plate.... ruin a whole board of job along with it...

Had to remove the spindle to get access to the mounting screw & anothe hour to get the spindle perpendicular to the spoilboard...

I did apply locktite to the holdings screw but it still came loose. what could had went wrong? What else I can do to eliminate future "thread"

Ken,
My router holder, which was attached with (6) 8-32 screws was backed up with self locking NYLOC nuts. (this was the K2CNC PC bracket) The quick disconnect adapter plate, which used the 3/8" drawbolt I used a NYLOC as well.

I had the 5HP porter cable on my z-slide and it vibrates violently on start up and shutdown and never noticed a attachment loosing.

You could safety wire the bolt heads. Here is a link on how to do it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire

They make jigs for drilling the bolt heads but they are only really needed for small fasteners. A good drill vise and drill press can do the same thing. Just make sure you do it in the tightening direction.

Trajotary Control on EMC2
 

The equivalent of Mach3 CV & exact stop selection is to type in G61/G64 code in the MDI box & on top of that, you can type in G64Px.xx to your taste & this will be remembered until a now G61/G64 code are found in your Gcode file or fresh code entry at the MDI box.
I've lost count how many times I re-learn EMC2 from scratch...
It is like wine tasting, the more you do it, the more you will learn, the more you know, the more you know, the more you will discover... Everytime I open up a new door, there are more doors behind it....

Microphone Cable
 

I was cruising eBay and found a 500' spool of shielded, very flexible, two conductor, stranded, microphone cable. Upon looking at Skycraft, I found: Your Price: $27.00, [each?] 11 reels of 100 ft in stock Item Number: SK9DKM Mfr: Belden Mfr P/N: 1812A

Of course to get 4 conductor, one would need two runs of wire, bringing the price up to about $.50 / foot.

Then after wandering here, I found the quote from KenC,

[QUOTE=KenC;32565]
I am going to use shielded cables within the panel, I have some nice microphone wires in hand, I recon they will do a great job as signal cables.

Is there a reason microphone cable won't work?

Thanks
roger

Roger,

I use a microphone cable for my auto-Z system (2.5 meters) and for the cables between the BoB and the Gecko's I used a cable from a old ps2 mouse.

For the cables between the Gecko and BoB I would recommend a cable where the two signals (dir and pulse) are within one cable. Using thicker cables (mic cables usually have two cores, unless you take professional balanced mic cables) just makes it a tad more complicated during wiring.

Ries,
I understand. I was thinking along of a (inexpensive) alternative to the ÖLFLEX CLASSIC 115C 4 G 1.0mm sq..
Thanks,
roger

The cheapest alternative to ÖLFLEX CLASSIC 115C 4 G 1.0mm sq.. is normal unshield power cable...
I used a "cheaper" alternative: Belden CYSC04.0150

Still scaling the learning curve.

Most of my jobs are cutting slots & opening profiled holes.Carving & engraving aren' t in the usual staple.

Today, I play with some carving with vector files that I'd been practicing on tracing.
Some how the cut isn't as clean as what I had last night...

What could be the problem?
Here is the pix
Attachment 10531

Another
Attachment 10532

and this is what I got from the night before
Attachment 10533

I'm using a 0.5" 90Deg V-bit @13200rpm @60ipm.

Appriciate all the advices.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Ken

Speaking strictly from a geometry viewpoint, with no operational experience....
The middle pic seems to show possibly unintended variation in the z direction that is exaggerated with the "v" bit. (Since it is a "v" bit the shoulder will move in the horizontal plane in responce to movement in the verticle direction.) As for the goop in the bottom of the cuts, if it is attached, I don't know how it could be there unless the point of the bit got knocked off.

question:
- is your material flat? (table been surfaced lately)
- does the material move?
- is your bit slipping?

All the above look like the culprit.

Sean

Thanks guys,
Found the problem...
My spindle mounting plate came loose... ARGGG!
Roger came real close...
Sean is real close too, the tool slipped WITH the spindle... :P

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid
Be careful, though, some of these are marketed as permanent, and you might want to take it loose some day!
roger

I believe those permanent thread lockers will give with a little heat applied. :)

...just like replacing a golf club heat. Gently heat the metal and the 'epoxy' will pop loose and let you remove the shaft or the threads in this case.

Sean

Thanks guys, just pop by my friendly local harware store & got myself a small bottle of Loctite 762. hope this will solve the problem.

A visit to Taiwan opens up many possibilities.
David also helped me decide on my priorities.
My mind is set top get the Vacuum Hold-down & belt reduction on my MM.
Dug out my old files & did more research the following is what I think is needed for a minimalist vacuum hold down

We need
A) Plenum + Bleeder + Plumbing
B) Vacuum system which consists of a Vacuum pump Pump & Flow/pressure
regulation/control, Reservoir, filter, silencer...

The Plenum is something we can figureout along the way without much financial impact... BUT the VAcuum pump is the coffer drainer...
The vacuum pump must achieve the followings:-
1) minimum 9"Hg or 28mmHg or 228torr or 310cmH20 or 122"H20 or 305mBar
2) Taking straight from Becker 7.5 hp vane pump, Open flow of 173cfm or 294m3/hr or 4900l/min

By hijacking David's work, it is safe to say that
Ultimate pump is Rotary Vane pump + VFD control
Practical pump is Root Blower + VFD
But I don't think I can afford any of them at the moment... But I believe in “having something is better then nothing”
Thanks to Buzz #60, lead met to this
Again in the name of reverse engineering I hijack...
Cheapo pump is diaphragm pump + breeder valve control

You can also try the dairy industry for vacumn pumps - used for the milking machines. Around here they are vane types in the range 2 to 5 kW. They are fairly easy to re-build.

That is a good piece of information, to be honest, I've never seen a milking machine locally...
My option is still wide open... re-building vane pumps is among the list... Vacuum pumps are rare in my local scrap yard, maybe I'm looking at the wrong places all this while...
How about getting hold of a 4 cylinder engine & drive it with a electric motor? High capacity compressors are not cheap...
Another thought, how about superchager for diesel engines, they are root blowers as well... Not familiar with their pressure rating though... Anyone familiar with that?
My town is the capital of re-cycle auto parts in South East Asia, surely I can find a suitable root super charger if I know what to look for...

The diesel "chargers" are likely to be turbochargers instead of superchargers - difference is that one is turbine driven (exhaust gas) and the other shaft driven. Be careful of trying to use a compressor as a vacuum device - often the lubricating oil gets all confused and goes to the wrong places.

Hi Gerald, thanks for the reminder.
Yes,I'm aware of the difference turbo charger.
I came to know a few years ago that super chargers for 2000CC engines are widely available but I've no immediate use at that time. I'm in the progress of back tracing the path to find the source.