I have these sets. They work the geared motor plates

http://www.cvsupply.com/servlet/the-...-Plates/Detail

Will support up to 4:1

I also have belt and pulley setups available for 3.3:1

Jeep if you need JR's drawings I received them from him during my build. PM me your email of you want them.

Mike's are easier to assemble that's for sure. So consider them too.

Hi, I did use this design also for the Z axis. It does work only if you attach the spider to the first slot. You can see it here http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...t=czech&page=2.

Danilo, I'll take you up on a copy of JR's drawings for eval if you don't mind, thanks

Here they are

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3884089/Tra...%20To%20Go.zip

Thank you very much

Professional
 

Wow, That is a professional doc. Is there a .dxf file? Where are people buying the gears?

sdp-si ?

So to those who have been using xl belts: After the first installation and tension set on the belts Did you ever REtension/adjust tension on them? Are you constantly chasing a good tension on them? Or did they hold tension over time and never need adjusting after installation?

Thanks.

Haven't touched mine since I put it together.

I have the oddball xl belt reduction here of single reduction 7.22:1 on three of the axes, a 4:1 single on another plus a 16:1 double reduction on the last and they are still tight.

Nice, thanks for the info guys.

So I considered the following but didnt go this route: Someone needs to make an adapter that converts the smaller notched shaft on the geared stepper motor (gearbox removed) up to a .5" shaft for a regular pinion.
This way people could go the regular route of getting geared steppers at first to "cut your teeth" so to speak, Then use the geared steppers to make their own belt drives latter without repurchasing motors.

Like I said, I considered it but didnt do it.

On a separate note I cut steel for the first time yesterday. WHAAA HOOOO! very happy with the results. This was done with my worn out 7.2gearboxes and worn out pinions. I couldnt believe how nice the edge was considering all the wear on the parts. Over 1000hrs on machine and its got some back lash now but holy cow, cutting steel is a huge deal. I dont have any modifications to the gantry or spider (as some claim need to be in place to cut steel...chopper.) Stock Mamba MM with worn out gearboxes and the edge looked laser cut. Needless to say I am ecstatic about it. Gerald I know you have moved on now but I just wanted to thank you again for your efforts in getting the MM out to the people. *thumbsup*

Pics or it did not happen ! :D

if i may ask, what were your rpm, feed rate and bit for cutting the steel?

Oh it happened :) Ill do more of it on Friday and take pics for you. My phone cant focus that close. Ill have a different camera on Friday and do another cut.
I was running my router speed dialed all the way back. On my router it says thats 10,000rpm Not sure how accurate that is?

Feed: It was my first test and Im sure could be dialed in better but I was at 60ipm with the depth per pass at .005" I added cutting oil to the top surface and a few drops during cutting.

The bit: I really think this was a key factor. It is a 3 flute carbide .25"dia. They have the shallow angle on the flutes. I dont have a link because the bit is used and was given to me. Sorry. Ill take pics of the bit on Friday as well.
Its kinda like this bit at amanatool but I think the flute angle is not that steep.
The bit wasnt even warm to the touch the metal WAS warm to the touch but was not hot. Granted the cut didnt last very long. I was really pleased.
Pics or it didnt happen... I can respect that, this is the internet after all .. :)
Friday.

Edit: Oh and my bit seems to be darker in color.
Edit again: Its still Wednesday here the forum says its Thursday so .. In a day and a half.

just teasing ya, but looking forward to some eyecandy :)

Its time..So I battled software today for some reason. Maybe updates to what I use to make files IDK. I was getting the ends of the arc dont match the start of the arc. Even old files were doing it. Absolute/inc in mach3 With about 60 potential options checked/unchecked anyway... I need to study up on that some more. BUT!!! I did get my first part cut out of steel today!!!!!
Hopefully these pics are to your liking ..

http://s13.postimg.org/n8f7eps87/IMG_0435.jpg

http://s15.postimg.org/4s2xx4hwr/IMG_0436.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/mwsjzt9xd/IMG_0439.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/4wjcvfhq9/IMG_0437.jpg

http://s8.postimg.org/duwpah945/IMG_0443.jpg

I had some Z/depth problems, the piece was suspended so it was hard to accurate z height, This allowed the part to drop as it approached the thin skin left holding it in place. This left the familiar thin skin that has to be removed. My tabs were to small also. I think what we are most concerned with in this post is the edge quality and IM VERY Happy with the edge. I mean Im going weld it here and there and some sanding will surely come into play at some point. Unsanded the part slips onto that hub nicely and has to go on straight or it binds going on.
Cant wait until I flood the table with coolant and get my belt drives on there.
I did have to babysit this cut and keep adding drops of cutting oil.

Edit:
Also after the cut the bit was barely warm. My motors were warmer, and when I say warm Im talking about not even close to hot but barely noticeable to the touch. It was a little scary at first just thinking the bit was going to shatter or something but Im alive and off to work. The Mechmate is such a monster.

Nice :D what cut parameters did you use this time ?

Wow...very nice and impressive!
Mark

That was cut @50ipm 10ipm on plunge spiral lead in and .005" depth per pass.
Ok the close up is not as good as a laser cut but sheesh its pretty good.
The harmonics would have been better if the plate was not above the table like that.
Machines building machines wOOt!
Thanks for taking a look.

Very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Earlier you described the bit you used, but can you tell us the manufacturer and model of the bit?

You had me sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for these pictures:) WOW!

It's good to see that the MechMate COULD cut steel if need be.

Yes you can do that with MM. I did that with a 2mm steel. After I loose a lot of time asking a friend to cut four pieces of 2 mm steel with his plasma cutter I finished the job with MM. Yes it can be done .

Looking at a price to lasercut or waterjet (or plasma) a small steel part and comparing that to an carbide endmill and bearings in a spindle, preparation, oil and mess on a table, I would hesitate to recommend that a mechmate is ok to cut steel.

Well the price for metal cutting (laser/water/plasma) for what I want done is well over 1000.00$ The cut was smoother than your thinking danilom, .005" per pass is really just going through the motions. Its not an aggressive cut at all. If my bearings wear out after this task Ill let you know. Not likely though. Preparation/oil and a mess? Come on.
Having the ability to redesign/recut and make changes to metal parts in house is well worth anything negatives that "may" come about.
Wood can only do so much, I really like the "structure" you can get from aluminum and steel. Like I said machines to build machines and I couldnt be happier.

Jhiggens7: I linked some metal cutting bits on the amana site in previous posts. The price seams ok there. 60.00$ give or take. This is a site I got from this site, I have not purchased from them and I think I remember people saying they are spendy. The black tipped bits on the home page image look like what I have, (those have more flutes mine has 3) I think they are altin coated? Not sure on that. Sorry I cant get more specific on them the bit was given to me from a machinist who was discarding it. There is not a manufacture name on it.
Im running out of time before Im off to work, when I get back I can take pics of the bit if needed. (I said I would do that previously didnt I *oops*)
I appreciate the comments (good and bad :) ) and will share anything I know about it, I know its not much though.
Thanks for playing along at home.

- for a 1000$ you'll have to cut some serious parts,
an example - from Mikes cvstore 8 x 4 belt reduction kits (8x132$) or 2 times all mechmate parts (2x520$) which include material (steel) and bending in cost. Could all that be cut with just one endmill? I am using US prices to compare, some prices I pay would cut that in half.

- 40 passes (0.127mm pass) to cut 5mm, at 50ipm (1270mm/min) thats 30 min for one meter linear cut.

- Mess... If you use your mechmate for daily woodworking, one metal chip embedded in mdf spoilboard will scratch chipboard surface, painted mdf, acrylic etc. Try to give that to a customer.
Squirting oil stays on mdf and leaves staines, you can cover the machine in nylon to prevent that maybe.

Router or spindle bearings are a long story I'll skip that.

Using mechmate when you just need some part made and using it daily for what it is (cnc router) differs.

After using MechMate for 4 years I just wanted to present risks trough facts to anyone reading this and thinking what a great idea and "lets try it" moment. No further comments.

Stains and scratches?. Do DIY 220v industrial machine makers need warnings about stains scratches? Clean up or resurface. Its just clear to me that danilom is really reaching for anything to discredit the cutting of metal. Why so much effort to cast doubt about metal?
Are metal customers not worth it?

I think Danilom is just giving his opinions why not to do it - if you were him -, he's not saying it can't be done.
Chopper, you, and others in the past have already been proving otherwise.

I have done/made countless of weird thing with tools that we're not really intended to do so, which did not mean it did not work... Sometimes live calls for some ingenuity and improvisation. Did it go faster/better/quicker then the 'right' tool ? Most often not, but it got the job done, and saved me money and time on outsourcing, and I made my deadlines.

Are there better tools then an MM for cutting steel ? Yes, I am a 100% sure about that.
Do you need to go and buy those, or outsource the job if you are aware of the 'downsides' and have the odd job and an MM at hand > No, (judging your and other results - I have not done it myself )

Neither one of you should try to convince the other, as your both 'right'.
He's been contributing to the MM community and so are you.
You both should drink a beer to that ( and Gerald ) !

Danilo is a giving person. I totally share Danilo's opinion on.

I totally understand how one's ego get bloated out of proportion after building a working MM from scratch. Been there.. :p

Nobody said MM can't cut metal. It can be done if you know what you are doing :D

I for one won't push that far based on the reasons Danilo stated & some... BUT don't take our words for it, have a go and feel the pain for yourself.

I work with repairing industrial machinery. This machine should be used within its intended design. Will it cut metal....yes. Will it cause premature wear on the machine...yes. I am one that does not recommend cutting metal with this machine. However, if you do cut metal with a router or spindle, do make sure you have polycarbonate guarding in place. I work with a guy that had a bit shatter and a tiny sliver went into his neck. That bit was only spinning at 800 rpm on a conventional mill. At even the low end of 6000 rpm on a spindle the exiting velocity is much, much higher. I would say that the guarding is a requirement and not an option.

The wear on my machine has impressed me (Gerald was still finishing the spider plate design when I started, Not saying that based on ego but as it relates to wear) and it has far exceeded what I thought it would. I am in the process of updating its components. So its going to happen. Bits break in wood too so safety is sound advice.
Its all in the aggressiveness of the cut IMHO.


Edit: I just notice Mods removed the rant. Thanks.

Hey Chuck,
No worries, everyone has an off day. :) Thats what the forum is for, discussion. I tend to like the diversity here and being able to see what others are trying on their machine. Maybe not everyone will operate their Mechmate the same, and thats ok too.

Chirpenchuck, Look at the bright side, you alarmed the uninitiated from unnecessary machine injuries :)

I have moded a few posts here to keep us focused on our MechMate discussion. If more is needed, let me know.

I think the value of the MechMate design and community is that everyone can learn the value and limits of these machines from each other. Everyone thinks they have pushed this design to the edge, and then someone mods the platform or just takes their own ability to bring the platform to another level.

Safety is your responsibility. No matter what your doing. If you think the platform can do it safely, then work it out and let us know.

I like seeing people prove this platform is ridged enough to cut steel. We all know that we probably would not take the platform into full scale machining production since it is so slow in that space. But as we have seen, with the right bit and feed/speed, it can be done.

So keep pushing. I am still looking for that 5 axis waterjet MechMate to go into service !!! :)

I'm a wanabee machinist, trapped in a Mechmate body, with a "small machinist complex".
and.. I'm ok with it.

Well that killed at work. Maybe a little to serious around here lately?
See ya around.

Not too serious, I just couldn't come up with a tasteful response. LOL

I'm looking at t5 10 tooth to t5 40 tooth reduction belt drive and am getting confused about belt length and tensioning.

A: How do I calculate belt length, or do most guys cut and splice their own belts. If so how do you vulcanise the belt at home?

B: How does the 'MetalHead' style welded reduction drive frames tension, I can't seem to make it out? Do you just pull the motor tight in slotted holes and tighten the mounting bolts? Doesn't this slip?

@Dale,
10 tooth? wow, u using NEMA17 motors?
u need some simple trigonometry maths or draw it in CAD to get the length. or search for manufacturer's tablets.
"A:" I just buy belts I need... never have to bother with belts joining.
"B:" is exactly how it is done. :D & it works.

@Ken I haven't thought about the shaft diameter have I? What am I missing? And thanks for the quick answers.

More Q:

Why aren't builders using plastic pulleys, they are cheaper?

Found this helpful page to assist in calculating belt length linked into SurfCNC's thread.

http://www.sdp-si.com/Cd/default.htm