#1
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New Mechmate Started! - Columbus Ohio
Hello everyone, as so many have already said…great machine and great website!
I have been around for some time now, have read a ton and learned a lot (still have a long way to go, I am sure). I hope that I am getting closer to actually starting a build in the near future. I am located in Columbus, Ohio (if anyone is near and wants to talk shop, let me know)! What I am planning is still a bit of a moving target, but here goes; A 5x10 machine (first question, any real down side to going beyond a 4x8, other than additional cost for material and time building)? I will be starting with a router (as I already have that), may consider a spindle at some point in the future. And would like to add a plasma cutter as well at some point. Also I would like to add a 4th axis under the table at some time in the future. Have 100amp service available 110/220 single phase. I am at this time leaning towards using 4 KL34H295-43-8A stepper motors. They are a 906oz. ½” shaft NEMA 34, 6.1 Amp 8 wire. I am planning on wiring them half coil. Although I will start with direct drive, my plan is to go with a 4:1 belt reduction soon after a successful build. The current price difference between the 906 oz. and the 640oz. is only $10 per motor, that is why I was thinking of using the 906oz? Any thoughts, pro or con for the motor choices? As for the drivers, I am still looking/learning. Seems like so many go with the Gecko 201/203. Has anyone considered the digital drivers from KL here; http://www.kelinginc.net/KLDriverDigital.html ? For the BOB I was thinking of using PMDX-122. Power supply still looking/learing? Any suggestions or thoughts on the BOB or PS? Any thoughts on where the $ is best spent (ie: PS , BOB, drivers, etc)? Also, any other good advice as far as, “what you wished you would have done differently if you had it to do over”? Thanks for any thoughts or comments on any of the above items! Also I will always try to follow proper forum etiquette, if I fall short in any area please let me know and I will correct! Mark |
#2
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Since the forum heading is "introduce and start planning" I did both in this thread. If it is better (and more people see it to respond), perhaps I should break it down, posting questions on the motor in the motor section, driver questions in that category, etc?
Thanks Mark |
#3
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Mark,
Its fine to post your questions in your thread, it keeps all your stuff in one place. If there is a good discussion on a particular topic in your thread, sometimes later, it can be added to the specific topic thread. So don't worry post your questions here. |
#4
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Some thoughts,
Since you are in the States, if your budget allows, you cannot go wrong with Geckodrive, either the 203V or the G540 have been used with much success. Their customer service is second to none. PMDX BOBs are used on a lot of MMs in North American with success. You will find a lot of folks here with PMDX experience. This is good when you have a problem and others can help you easily. Power supply. Make or buy a simple unregulated power supply. The voltage of that supply will depend on what steppers you have chosen. Antek has good supplies for the MM, or you could easily build your own with a transformer, bridge rectifer and some capacitors. Not really that hard. |
#5
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Hi Domino
Thanks for the reply and the information. I have heard great things about the Gecko products (and PDMX), as with most people I will have to make some compromises on the budget. I am hoping for some insight on the "best" places to splurge and the "best" places to hold back a bit. I like the idea about building the PS, they so look pretty straight forward and certainly appear simple enough. Would any be willing to offer opinions on ranking the order of importance (by that I mean, where is best to go for highest quality ($) and where one might save a bit and still have a successful build) using the following items; 1. Motors 2. Drivers 3. BOB 4. PS Thanks Mark |
#6
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how much is "a bit saving" for you?
To some "best" is MADE IN US. For me "Best" is "ECONOMICAL" |
#7
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Hi Ken
Thanks for getting back with me. I see your point, I guess I have Champagne taste with a beer budget. Best for me means economical too, although of course I want to be smart about it. If it helps at all, I really don't care too much about "production"... I am a 1 man shop. I would prefer versatelity over production, so if I can design the machine to do a wider range of material types and sizes... I view that as "better" over a machine that can do wood sheets really efficiently. Hope that makes sense? As for how much is "a bit of savings".... like I mentioned on the motors ....640oz. was only $10 less per motor than the 906oz, so I would go the 906oz route. But it all adds up and I want to spend my $ as wisely as possible...knowing that I will not be able to afford my ultimate 5x10, dual z plus 4th axis,with plasma cutter add-on, plus laser cutter, etc At least not all at once. Considering that I would like to do the kitchen project, I want to nail down the main components for that and hoping for some input and ideas on where not to skimp and where there is some room to save some $. Thanks Mark |
#8
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I always as myself this question when I wish to keep my budget rational. "do I need more than what already is there?" in this particular case, Do you need more than 640oz? US10 may be little, but when 4x it is US40...
An All-in-one machine IMHO is All-useless-one. simple analogy is a Formula 1 race car apart from it's speed performance, fail in every single important aspect of a family utility vehicle & an excellent family utility vehicle can't plow/harvest your field. Do the kitchen table project if you are really serious about building a MM. |
#9
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"Do I need more than what is already there"?
Do you know how many cars I could park inside my garage if I had followed that advice I don't want to reinvent MM, but do hope to be able to utilize it for all it can accomplish. I am sure I l will look at additional ways to personalize my machine as time goes on...and with that I hope that I can build with evolution in mind. I am putting together what I think/hope will be a good solid kitchen setup. I will post details and would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks Mark |
#10
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I did mention rational somewhere in the sentence
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#11
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That you did sir! No one has ever said "rational" to me before...unless it was proceeded by the words..."you need to be"
On a side note; Just out of curiosity, any chance that anyone here is into pinball machines? That is my other hobby/obsession (and the main reason garages do not have cars in them). Mark |
#12
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As I continue the research, I have noticed that some machine builds have the ends offset (one end hangs over further than the other). I am no engineer, but I can't come up with the why? Unless it is the "front" of the machine, and gives more room for clamping, etc.?
Also, if I were to consider a "plasma" only cutting machine (I have seen several successful builds listed), would torque be much less of an issue? I know you still have to have enough power to move and control the gantry, but much less than for cutting through material with a router/spindle I assume? Thanks Mark |
#13
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The plans do call for an offset of the table. See 10 10 300. If I am not mistaken, that would allow for equidistant tool overlap with the typical router/spindle mounting position in the y-carriage. I believe it is about 4 inch offset, which gives about 2 inch overlap on each end. Been a while since I welded my table up.
From the folks I have seen doing plasma work, yes, torque would be less of an issue. Ted |
#14
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Hi Ted
I do remember reading where Gerald mentioned the design allowed for a 2" over run on each end of both the x and the y. I have just seen many images of finished machines, where it appears the supports are equal on both ends and others where there is the offset. I guess there has been many modifications of the table portion, to accommodate storage etc. So perhaps that area is not critical or there is some room for personal preference? Mark |
#15
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The Z axis center is offset from center of Y-car so you have to compensate for that, thats it
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#16
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Thanks Danilo. After reading 1134 threads...at this point, I feel when I learn something new, something else falls out of my head
I feel like I am starting to understand things a bit better and hope to post my thoughts on what I will do soon. Looking forward to feedback (positive and negative) on my plan. As always, I really appreciate everyone's help on the forum! Mark |
#17
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Just curious, do USA builders use metric bolts? I see M8 for the V wheels on the spider plate, are the USA guys using 5/16" or is M8 a better choice?
Mark |
#18
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On the important and METRIC ONLY parts, I used metric.
M12 for the Vee Wheel bolts and 5/16 to hold the eccentric bolt that was a True M12 outside diameter. That little bit of difference makes a difference. If you Vee wheels are metric bore, then use Metric. |
#19
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Great...thank you Smreish!!!
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#20
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I used predominantly metric hardware. The only place I did not was the belt reduction designs and the bolts for the cross bearers, legs, supports. The taper washers were only available in inch. My Mechmate is all bolt together. Other than those places, all else metric. It is a much nicer UOM to use.
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#21
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Hi Pete,
Thanks for posting, I have been following your work on your machine...most impressive! I see you are in PA, any chance you are on the west side of the state (maybe not too far from OH)? I appreciate any thoughts or input you have on my build. Although, I read everything I can...sometimes it helps to have some direct input on questions (even just for reassurance)! Thanks Mark |
#22
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South Central
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#23
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I was hoping for a boarder town...something I could pop over and have a look at (not that I was inviting myself)
If you find yourself in Ohio, you are welcome to stop by and see what I have done as well (don't expect to see a working MM yet)! Mark |
#24
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Regarding the bushings OD (plans call for 0.8"), is there any reason that the OD could not be 0.744" ? In looking where it contacts the V wheel, I don't see any problems, but wanted 2nd opinions. I have some 3/4" steel rod ,but it has some surface rust...best finished OD will be right at 0.744"
Thanks Mark |
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