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  #91  
Old Tue 01 December 2009, 00:50
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Thank you, J.R. A laser would probably help...I haven't read enough about this yet to figure out where to get one, how to hook it up, and use it. For this project, I had used a pointy stick chucked in the router

Regarding the pegs, I bought them from craftparts.com. Mine are the 5/8" dia. size.

John
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  #92  
Old Wed 02 December 2009, 08:32
dragonfinder1
Just call me: Dave #49
 
Astoria, Oregon
United States of America
John

I find the center of my project and use a very sharp pencil, make a small line. The use a laser pointed v-bit, center it on the pencil line, then go to the MDI page of Mach and move half the width of my project, then zero the DRO. It's fast and you can get very close to the center of your project.

Given the width of the lines I've seen with lasers, you can get as close with my method. For sure not as fast, but you never have to worry about the lasers being knocked out of align.

Dave
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  #93  
Old Wed 02 December 2009, 08:57
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
edge

Most people just touch off the sides of there parts with the tool they are using in Y and X, zero your tool and then you can move exactly were you want to. Or make your self a referance jig to locate your parts the same after you set up the first one. It is the same practice machinest use. Send me a PM if you want to try it and I can explain it a little more.
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  #94  
Old Thu 03 December 2009, 09:38
dragonfinder1
Just call me: Dave #49
 
Astoria, Oregon
United States of America
Castone

How do you set up when you want the file that your cutting to be in the center of a pattern in your material that might not be or is not centered in the base material?
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  #95  
Old Thu 03 December 2009, 10:07
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
edge

If you start as I was talking about before by finding your 0Y 0X . You can measure the board you are cutting, then you can just jog to what is the center of the board by looking at your computer. Or you can go MDI Type G0 X10 Y5 F20 and hit enter and it will jog to that location for you. Most parts do not require it to be this close but when it does this will always work.
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  #96  
Old Sat 02 January 2010, 23:07
ikeike
Just call me: isaac
 
bozeman
United States of America
John,
I'm so impressed with your design for the bolt together table. Do you mind sharing the dimensions of the I-beam stock you used for the X-axis and legs? Great work!
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  #97  
Old Sun 03 January 2010, 22:41
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Thank you Isaac. The I-beam for the main beam is 8" x 4" (I think they're called "long flange"?), and the legs are 4" x 4".

John
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  #98  
Old Sun 03 January 2010, 22:48
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Dave and Leo, thank you for the advice. I've been away from the machine for a few weeks and haven't had a chance, but will give it a try.

John
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  #99  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 01:20
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Update on #34

Hi Everyone!

I can't believe it's been a year since I've last posted...time FLIES when you have a MechMate in the garage, especially when you're trying to learn how to use the thing! Anyways, here are a few projects that I've done since I finished my machine. Nothing too complicated, but a learning experience nonetheless.

John

Sloniker 024.JPG

Sloniker 034.JPG

013.JPG

015.JPG

027.JPG

033.JPG

035.JPG

085.JPG

Brandolini 001.JPG

Brandolini 005.JPG

may 26 034.JPG

Sign Pictures 025.JPG

Sign Pictures 147.JPG

047.JPG
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  #100  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 03:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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John, you shouldn’t expose those, some will become jealous of your talent !
I know I am
VERY nice & thankful of you to share these !
Congrats, Robert
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  #101  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 05:27
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Great stuff. Can you share what you used to make these. I mean wood type (I reread the thread), method you used to paint them, bit etc. This is some nice work !!
What software did you draw these in?
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  #102  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 07:48
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Beautiful John, Beautiful!
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  #103  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 21:50
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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I like it..very well done and thank's for sharing
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  #104  
Old Fri 21 January 2011, 22:47
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Thanks for the compliments, guys.

Mike, for the v-carved stuff, I've been experimenting with HDU foam (top two pictures) and hardwoods like poplar and maple (fourth & fifth picture). I've used various bits, but narrowed down my favorites to Whiteside 90 and 60 degree bits for carving, and 1/4 straight flute and Onsrud Super O for the profile. I'm all over the place with feeds and speeds, but I normally cut b/n 100-200 ipm...maybe a little on the slow side.

I'm still trying different techniques for finishing, but I'm getting the best results so far with painting first, masking, and then v-carving through the mask. Long process, but i like the crisp edges.
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  #105  
Old Sat 22 January 2011, 13:14
fanefane
Just call me: Stefan #73
 
Baia Mare
Romania
Beautiful work, congratulations!
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  #106  
Old Wed 02 February 2011, 03:16
Sergio-k
Just call me: Sergio #61
 
Athens
Greece
Quote:
Originally Posted by buibui View Post
Thanks for the compliments, guys.

Mike, for the v-carved stuff, I've been experimenting with HDU foam (top two pictures) and hardwoods like poplar and maple (fourth & fifth picture). I've used various bits, but narrowed down my favorites to Whiteside 90 and 60 degree bits for carving, and 1/4 straight flute and Onsrud Super O for the profile. I'm all over the place with feeds and speeds, but I normally cut b/n 100-200 ipm...maybe a little on the slow side.

I'm still trying different techniques for finishing, but I'm getting the best results so far with painting first, masking, and then v-carving through the mask. Long process, but i like the crisp edges.
Isn't paint "melting" when you carve, or you paint the final layer afterwards ?

BTW your work is stunning, congrats.
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  #107  
Old Thu 03 February 2011, 07:58
liaoh75
Just call me: David
 
Taibao
Taiwan
Beautiful Work Sergio!
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  #108  
Old Thu 03 February 2011, 19:35
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Hi Sergio, no the paint doesn't melt, it just cuts away. Only the lettering gets paint after carving.

John
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  #109  
Old Sun 06 February 2011, 08:48
liaoh75
Just call me: David
 
Taibao
Taiwan
John, can you tell us what you use for the "mask"? Is it transfer tape the sign industry use to transfer vinyl lettering to it's final location? I've tried this technique before, but found some problems with my masking "tape" peeling away the original paint in patches. If you've not had this problem before, the question may seem confusing but if you've had similar problems, then you know exactly what I'm talking about. Also, what type of paint are you using? Water based or oil? How long was the dry time before applying the mask. After you carve, how long do you wait before removing the mask? Sorry about asking so many questions in one go, but I've just about given up on the masking--> carving-->peeling mask strategy. Then I saw your beautiful work and felt inspired to try again
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  #110  
Old Sun 06 February 2011, 21:59
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Hi David,

Yes, I had a lot of problems with lifting, but after a lot of trial and error, I'm now getting pretty consistent results. I use Oracal 813 for the masking, it cuts very cleanly, and a little less tacky than masking tape. It can still lift off paint, though, so I have to be gentle removing it.

I use both oil and waterbased paints, and let them dry for at least 24 hours before applying the mask...more if possible. I've found that certain brands work better than others. Here in the states, Sherwin Williams work great for me, but cheaper brands like Valspar tend to peel away.

John
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  #111  
Old Mon 07 February 2011, 00:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
A liitle tip I picked up on a forum.....only paint/coat wood while it is cooling.

Wood is porous and full of air. While it is heating up, it breathes out..while cooling, it sucks in. You get the worst adhesion (and finish) if you paint in the shade and then put in the sun to dry. First put in the sun, then take inside to paint, and leave inside until touch dry, then maybe risk heating a little to speed drying.
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  #112  
Old Mon 07 February 2011, 06:58
cmd1991
Just call me: Collin
 
New Haven, IN
United States of America
Those are some Great looking signs!
Maybe one of these days we can "invest" in some v-carving software.
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  #113  
Old Mon 07 February 2011, 07:53
ChiknNutz
Just call me: Chris
 
PNW
United States of America
Being an ex-sign maker (lost our business to the crappy economy), I love this type of stuff! Excellent work. If you want true sign-grade paint with lots of pigment, look for One-Shot (oil-based) or Ronan (typically water-based).
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  #114  
Old Tue 08 February 2011, 10:13
isladelobos
Just call me: Ros
 
Canary Islands
Spain
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Hi John.

Very nice machine.

Im not see in the photos were is the method you use for fit perfect the racks in the main beams under the main rails, is possible you cut your main beam 0.6" ?

Regards
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  #115  
Old Wed 06 April 2011, 10:13
HomeMadeCnc
Just call me: Tim
 
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
Thanks for posting all your projects, keep the rest of us motivated!
Tim
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  #116  
Old Tue 25 September 2012, 13:04
slobato
Just call me: Leandro
 
Lauro de Freitas
Brazil
Smile Save topic

Save this topic as favorite in my profile itīs possible? how to do? itīs for easily more find. Thanks
John your MM itīs amazing!! CONGRATULATIONS

Last edited by slobato; Tue 25 September 2012 at 13:20..
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  #117  
Old Tue 25 September 2012, 13:58
slobato
Just call me: Leandro
 
Lauro de Freitas
Brazil
Unhappy Pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by buibui View Post
Didn't get as much done this weekend as I wanted. Picked up angles at the steel yard for the rails on Saturday morning, and spent the rest of the afternoon trying to figure out how to cut them down.

Finally setup and cut on on the bandsaw Sunday. It not easy pushing a 45lb, 11 foot piece of angle through a bandsaw! Each one took about half an hour of constant pressure, and I ended up snapping the blade with 4 inches left on the last one. I ended up having to use the grinder to finish it off. Though this is all I accomplished this week, I'm sure glad it's done!

Guess what I'll be doing next weekend!


Bandsaw setup with piece of square tube for fence:


Setup beam on a bench to catch the angle:


Cutting...very long, boring, tiring...zzz...


Yay!


Smoothing the cut edge:
Hi John

Whereīs pics? Your hosting pics have a error:
Http/1.1 Service Unavailable
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