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  #91  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 03:58
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Hurshy, Looking great. I'm right there with you guys.
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  #92  
Old Wed 18 December 2013, 18:01
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Thanks but I have taken a couple of days off, but I got back into it today. When I was machining the drive gears I realized that a carriage stop for the lathe would make the process a lot easier. I drew up a sketch and headed for steel vendor. I bought about 60 pounds for future projects. I headed home and started cutting out the blank on the steel band saw. After 10 minutes I gave up and headed to the vertical mill. I was able to rough out the basic shape before the mosquitos showed up. I will finish it tomorrow.

I noticed that the gears cost about $20 and a 1 foot bar of the raw material was about $40. I will get a least 10 gears out of the rod. By my math it was worth the effort. I have almost all the tooling now the make all the gears and pulleys. UPS called and scheduled a delivery for tomorrow. The metal/wood band saw I ordered from Grizzly is here. I am pretty happy with the service they gave me. I have the metal for the reduction drive all drawn up and it is ready to be cut out.

Is .250 Aluminum to thin for the plates on the gear reduction drives?
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  #93  
Old Wed 18 December 2013, 20:54
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I was reading the manual for the band saw and had to laugh when I saw that the motor is controlled by a VFD. I guess this really is the wave of the future. One of the manual I read pointed out that this method is the most efficient method of controlling motor speed. Well I will see tomorrow how smooth the speed transition is. Later.
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  #94  
Old Wed 18 December 2013, 21:01
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
While I was researching VFD's, I saw one youtube video where someone was using a Chinese VFD to drive a bridgeport with a 3 phase motor.
When I had bought my big mill several years back, I had bought a rotary phase converter. If I had to do it now, I would probably use a VFD. It is a fraction of the size and weight of my mechanical converter.
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  #95  
Old Thu 19 December 2013, 05:24
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
http://youtu.be/llTO2X-jOIA

I did a series in 2010 setting up a vfd on a South Bend Lathe.

You can do a lot with them for sure... But I do not know who the fat guy is in the videos!!!
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  #96  
Old Thu 19 December 2013, 22:04
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
awesome videos, great training tool
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  #97  
Old Thu 19 December 2013, 22:11
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I was able to get the carriage stop cut out of bar stock and mill almost all the relief. Decided to wait until tomorrow to fine tune it. The band saw didn't arrive until 7:00. Dug out the pry bars and saber saw and cut it loose. Mounted the table and pushed it back in the corner. The mosquitos win. I will do this tomorrow. The guides on this are really nice. I will have to take the time and make sure they are setup correctly.
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  #98  
Old Sat 21 December 2013, 23:40
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Mounted the table on the band saw today and added the fence and guides. I was a little nervous about wiring the plug to this. After reading the manual and the spec sheet, it stated that the motor is 2hp 220 volt and 3 phase. I picked up a plug at Home Depot and did the deed. Nothing to it. I turned the saw on and nothing happened. I turned the speed from 540 ipm to 3600. Then I noticed the blade was moving. This thing is quite. Had to test it so I grabbed several pieces of the crate and sawed it into little pieces. Fun, but I now needed to cut some metal. Opened the package with the new blades and picked one. The blade was tie wrapped and after I cut the tie wraps I realized that there is now way that I was going to unfold 12 foot of razor sharp metal. I threw it into the middle of the driveway. It sprung open and the sound was wicked. WOW! I spent the next half hour getting it put on and then noticed the teeth on the blade were pointing the wrong way. Dough! Found a chunk of steel and started cutting, nice. found the aluminum that I was going to use for soft jaws. No problem. Tomorrow I will hoist the saw up with the engine lift and put the wheeled dolly on. Then I will start cutting the metal for the gear reduction drives.
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  #99  
Old Sun 22 December 2013, 18:25
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Well I had hoped to get the bandsaw mounted on the cart today but as I looked around the neighborhood and saw all the Christmas lights I decide the least I could do is clean up the wood stacked against the fence. I dragged the bandsaw out and started cutting. I filled the dumpster they make you use now and kept on cutting. I stacked all the rest on the mechmate table and call it quits. I still have a lot more to cut but the pile is smaller.

I wanted to at least cut out one set of gear reduction drive plates. Here is a picture I took of them.

Somehow they reminded me of something. Tomorrow I will sand them and start machining.
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  #100  
Old Mon 23 December 2013, 18:42
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I was able to mount my bandsaw on the cart today. It sure is a lot easier to move around. I saw a add on Ebay where a guy was selling a slap of 3/4 aluminum at scrap prices. I bought it and it was delivered yesterday. I cut it up into manageable pieces. I plan on learning how to make pulleys. What I don't use I will melt down and cast a couple of housings I need. I tried sanding the metal plates I had cut out but the metal destroyed the sand paper. I guess I will use the grinder. Later
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  #101  
Old Wed 01 January 2014, 22:09
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
completed my mock up reduction drive. I was mostly satisfied with the results. The setup I am aiming for is 4:1 but I made the setup so that it can go far higher if I need to. Today I used the new templates and marked out the plates on 1/4 steel. The new band saw was nice. I was able to cut all 8 blanks in about 3 hours. Spent the rest of the evening cleaning and rearranging the garage. One day I will hope to have my mess cleaned up. Tomorrow I will scribe all the layout lines and start machining.
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  #102  
Old Fri 03 January 2014, 22:19
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
spent the day playing on the vertical mill. I drilled the alignment holes between the top and bottom plates of the reduction drives. If you need the assembly to face one direction you just turn over the plate and bolt it together. I then scribed out the layout onto each part. I started to machine out the base plate and was able to get it completed. Still 3 more to do. I took a break and machined some washers I needed to mount the vise onto the mill. I then started to machine the separators I needed to mount the 2 plates together. I saw that the unit mentioned on the Forum were 1.1000" so I decided that I would make mine 1.250 and cut them down later if need be. Need 5 pieces for each unit. Made 9 so far out of 1/2 aluminum rod. Finish them to tomorrow and them drill and tap. Should have the first unit running in the next couple of days.
I noticed that the FRZ8 bearings when they are pressed into 1/4 steel plate that there is no bearing surface able to support the washers used as spacers. They would drag on the surface of the plate. I will pick up a couple of Formica samples and use them instead of washer. I will see if what the youtube machinist said is correct. Formica has a zero coefficient of drag when placed face to face. If not I will figure something else out.
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  #103  
Old Sat 04 January 2014, 04:11
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I thought the frz8's were 1.125" with a flange that can be used as a washer surface. are you saying that the inner race does not protrude enough to provide a surface to rest your spacer materials against? do you have any pics of what you're describing? I'm not sure about the zero coefficient for Formica but I do know that it's thickness is fairly consistent.
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  #104  
Old Sat 04 January 2014, 11:01
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Tom Yep meant 1.125 thanks. here is a pic of the FRZ8 bearing with a washer pressed against it. When I press directly in the center and try to rotate it I feel the washer drag/scrape the surface of the bearing. If you have the bearings please try this. I am going to turn washers on the lathe with a .020 shoulder and see if that works. The other issue is that when buying raw steel the thickness is not always consistent. This is not as much of a problem with aluminum. I measured the height of the bearing at .315 and the lip at .075. Leaving a shoulder to face measurement of .240. When pressed into a piece of metal with a thickness of .250 that would mean it is approximately .010 below the surface. Weren't you using 3/8" aluminum. So you are really "down in the valley".



Here is and pic of a Starrett micrometer showing that the bearing housing is 1.1300. Nice thing about Starrett you can read to the 4th position. All this means is that I will need to adjust the size of the hole. I am not sure about having (.005) that much of a press fit. I usually aim for .001 or .002 press fit. I am not sure but I will try the .005 fit and report back.



The low coefficient of friction that Formica like products are used as a substrate under the belt of tread mill. Pretty slippery until you put a 400lbs person on it. That is why they put a weight limit on them. Later

Last edited by Mrayhursh; Sat 04 January 2014 at 11:03..
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  #105  
Old Sat 04 January 2014, 11:18
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Yes, I am using 3/8" aluminum but I had planned to place the flange to the inside of the plates giving a spacer effect and also keeps the bearings from falling out even if its not a completely tight pres fit. I'm also going to use spring washers to keep the shafts center aligned but still allowing a minute side to side movement (if its needed). Whether this idea is a good one I don't know but its what I thought would work. I suspect the bearings have to be changed periodically anyway so I'm not too worried about side wear if any.

Formica like laminates are like the Micarta you mentioned only made with paper.
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  #106  
Old Thu 09 January 2014, 23:41
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I need to get back to the MM. I have been working on installing DRO PROS EL-400 magnetic readout on the lathe. All the screws are metric and finding metric taps has been a challenge. Lowes does not carry taps and dies. Ace Hardware only carries larger sizes and Home Depot only sells the one tap I need in a 24.99 set. That leaves the web. The nice thing about having the DRO is that it makes making gears super easy and quick. Hopefully the taps will show up soon so I can finish this project and get onto the next. The 1 inch drill bits arrived today so I can start working on the gear reduction plates. A week ago I was finally able to clear out a pile of old junk out of the garage. I am now able to walk up to all my main machines and use them. Later...
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  #107  
Old Fri 10 January 2014, 17:01
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I was able to complete the x-axis on the lathe. Fiddled with it all day. I finally cut down the shield cover and called it a wrap. Tomorrow I hope I finish the y-axis. Does anyone know why on a machine like the MM the x-axis is the long run. This makes since, but on a machine like the lathe the x-axis is the short run and the long stretch is the y-axis. This seems backward.
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  #108  
Old Fri 10 January 2014, 18:18
lonestaral
Just call me: Al #114
 
Isarn
Thailand
Send a message via Skype™ to lonestaral
Generally on machines, the rotating axis is the Z.

The longest axis after the Z is called the X axis.

So your lathe axis are Z(Rotating) and X.

You can imagine X as across ( A Cross)

Hope this helps you.
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  #109  
Old Fri 10 January 2014, 18:22
racedirector
Just call me: Bruce #122
 
New South Wales
Australia
This:

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...8&postcount=62
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  #110  
Old Fri 10 January 2014, 22:48
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Just finished putting on the y-axis. Need metric screws to finish putting on the covers. I turned it on and put in a 1/2 inch metal rod I am going to use for axles on the reduction drives. After facing off the piece I zeroed the scale and cranked it over to 3.100 and cut it off. Wow this is great. Can't wait to make a batch of gears.
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  #111  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 18:07
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
The large drill bits I ordered showed up. The largest is 1 inch so I can step drill them up to 1 inch and bore to 1.125. I tried it on the mill and then I wanted to try it on the lathe. My lathe has a D1-5 type chuck. Gained a little experience swapping it out with a faceplate. Had to research how to use it. Wow, these things are dangerous. I tried doing it with the method they recommended. After boring out the first one I decided it was time to make my own homegrown fasteners. Used four pieces of 3x3x3/8 angle iron and cut it down. I will enter a pic in tomorrows update. Works great and it is a lot safer. I will finish drilling to plates tomorrow. later and keep warm.
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  #112  
Old Tue 21 January 2014, 23:54
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
I saw a way to machine the plates for the reduction drive. Since I am interested in learning various ways of machining the same part I tried to faceplate on the lathe. The chuck on my lathe uses D1-5 method to hold it in place so there was a lesson just to remove and remount the faceplate. the plate use the same t-bolt and wedges as my mill. After mounting the plate I found it very easy to drill a 1 inch hole in the plate. That is where the problem began. I needed to bore the hole to 1.125. The brackets used to hold the plate stick out and become a dangerous weapon. I decided to machine low profile brackets. The brackets worked great. I will try to use them tomorrow. I spend the evening cleaning and posting my first metal lathe/mill for sale in Craig List. Need to get rid of it to make room for other toys...later.
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  #113  
Old Thu 23 January 2014, 18:26
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Smile

Can't believe how fast the lathe/mill sold. Had seven people calling and a guy shows up with cash. gone baby gone. Have $400 to play with. Wonder if I can sale the kid that is living in the back bedroom? I order parts from Zoro Tools. They sale a nice set of ratcheting levers that I use on different tools. I ordered various colors and sizes. I was going to use a couple on the lathe to lock the carriage. They came in the mail today and they didn't fit. I called the customer service girl and told her my problem. She issued me credit. Found the correct parts and told me to keep the ones they sent. What? I have never heard of this. I ordered more stuff. I felt guilty.
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  #114  
Old Thu 23 January 2014, 19:12
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Don't feel guilty, there are other companies that will do the same. It happened to me when I ordered those plastic 72t gears from SDP/SI. Kids don't sell, you have to pay if you want to get rid of them...
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  #115  
Old Thu 23 January 2014, 20:54
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Who do I pay, and how much?
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  #116  
Old Thu 23 January 2014, 21:15
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Lol.....
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  #117  
Old Thu 23 January 2014, 21:23
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
he will be on your door step tomorrow morning. That is not a sasquatch it's him. The odor is the same.
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  #118  
Old Fri 24 January 2014, 04:03
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Right now if you move him to the northern region of the states he wouldn't smell as bad. the cold keeps odors down to a minimum.
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  #119  
Old Fri 24 January 2014, 04:07
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Oh, and give them enough for a return bus ticket, just in case (so he feels like he's coming back on day).
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  #120  
Old Sat 15 February 2014, 16:51
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Hey Hurshy haven't heard from you in awhile, how are things coming along?
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