MechMate CNC Router Forum

Go Back   MechMate CNC Router Forum > Structure & Mechanics > 20. Gantry
Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old Tue 13 May 2008, 16:01
dmoore
Just call me:
 
10 20 235 Y-Rail Clamp Strip - getting it into position . . . .

How did you guys attached the Y-Rail Clamp Strip inside of the tube? Since you will need to remove the rails once the stiffining closures (10 20 456) are welded in, it seems you should weld the ends of the strip inside the tube.

That's what I did but I'm wondering if there was another more "approved" method I wasn't aware of.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old Tue 13 May 2008, 17:26
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
I wish you had asked this question earlier. I welded mine also and regretted it later. Gerald explained how to position the strips if you don't weld them. I can't remember where his explanation was but I found it after I had tacked them in place and closed up the end of the rails. The reason you shouldn't weld the strips is that you can't reposition the rails as much as you can if the strips are loose. Believe it or not, it made a difference when I was trying to get the car to sit down properly. Hopefully you won't have the same problems I did.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old Tue 13 May 2008, 17:28
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Grabouw (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
The slots in the stiffening closures are there so that you can slide the clamping strip in or out.

A trick when installing, insert the strip through the slot and position roughly below the holes in the tube top, place rail on top of tube, then use two lengths of ready bar (all thread) with nuts on about 200mm (8") from the ends. Insert the threaded rod through two holes about a third of the way from each end of the rail, and turn into the tapped holes in the clamp strip. Once thats done, lift the clamp bar up against the inside of the tube and run the nuts on the treaded rod down to the rail - that will hold the rail in place and allow you to put in the rest of the bolts. When you have sufficient bolts in, remove the threaded rod and replace with standard bolts. To remove just work in reverse.

If possible, remove the welds you have as it will limit the amount of adjustment available.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old Tue 13 May 2008, 17:53
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Thanks Alan. That's what I remembered reading.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old Tue 13 May 2008, 20:35
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gentlemen.
I did the "other" option.
I used 3/16" wall tube and tapped the holes 5/16 fine thread! yeah I know....rebel.
I was on a tapping frenzy while running the tap in everything that had a hole drilling in it!
So far, working well.
And as far as the extra mass on the gantry...I haven't noticed an issue yet at all. Especially with the 7.2 geared motors.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old Wed 14 May 2008, 12:23
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
I thought it would be a problem for me but when I bolted the rails on, I slid the bolt strip inside the tubes and held one end up with a screwdriver and started the bolt, then did the other end the same way. Once I had the two ends pulled up tight I angled the rail on top of the rectangular tubing and bolted the rail center hole to the bolt strip center hole, removed the two bolts in the ends, rotated the rail into place and then inserted the rest of the bolts working from the center outwards. It was actually pretty easy to do.

hope that made sense
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 07:18
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_Ford View Post
I wish you had asked this question earlier. I welded mine also and regretted it later. Gerald explained how to position the strips if you don't weld them. I can't remember where his explanation was . . . .
. . . . it was here
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 22:30
Johannescnc
Just call me: John
 
Hannover, DE
Germany
How about this...

Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 00:37
IN-WondeR
Just call me: Kim
 
Randers
Denmark
I just used a couple of bolts in the middle of the gantry to keep it lifted enough for me to get a hold of it with another bolt in one end, and then the other afterwards... Worked with ease...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 01:34
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johannascnc View Post
How about this...
Now that's a good idea... wish I had though of that. No fishing around for it inside the gantry tube and it still provides room for the wires.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 01:52
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Many ways to skin a cat . . . . . you can even turn the gantry upside down and let gravity do the job.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 05:23
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
the easiest
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 09:39
Johannescnc
Just call me: John
 
Hannover, DE
Germany
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Many ways to skin a cat . . . . . you can even turn the gantry upside down and let gravity do the job.
As long as the cat gets skined!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 21:28.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.