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  #271  
Old Thu 20 November 2014, 13:05
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Gorgeous work, my friend.
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  #272  
Old Thu 20 November 2014, 13:45
Fox
Just call me: Fox
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
nice work.

did your assistant manage to break the diy t-slot or was it an operator error ?
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  #273  
Old Thu 20 November 2014, 13:46
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Very Nice Robert!
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  #274  
Old Thu 20 November 2014, 15:02
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
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Brilliant stuff! (and we are not allowed to be shy here Robert )
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  #275  
Old Thu 20 November 2014, 18:18
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Woaw guys, thks for the compliment !
Shy, moi...na....

FOX, the t-slot actually gave away as it had a weak lip do to, I made an initial machining mistake ( to thin). So ya, we can say it’s the programmers miss
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  #276  
Old Fri 21 November 2014, 04:33
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
Wow c'est beau pas a peu près. Very inspiring. There is no stopping you now.. Is that oak ? Are you still running with the mdf prototype gears reduction?
Ça me fait beaucoup penser a la cour ,je viens de gagner pour la 6em fois en ligne ,ça commence a être redondant.
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  #277  
Old Fri 21 November 2014, 05:54
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Hey Norm, nice to here from you !!
Merci pour les compliments....
"There is no stopping you now.. " better then ever, since I got separated 4 yrs ago

Certains ont ds billets de saison pour le Hokey...toi....C'est la Cour....t'es un abonner régulier

Gear reduction have been on MDF only for a few trial !!
Since then, there made of ½" black composite

P1010022_resize.JPG

P181014_16.35RT_resize.jpg

Cheers

Last edited by Robert M; Fri 21 November 2014 at 06:03..
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  #278  
Old Fri 21 November 2014, 11:41
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Robert,
Awesome job on the desk! So when are you going to get some Labels on that machine and get a serial number?
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  #279  
Old Fri 21 November 2014, 14:26
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Heath, thks for the compliments, appreciate !
See, I’ve been around since #2 ( RIP buddy) !
When I started my project, I was aiming for #21......
Since then, I’m still around, acknowledge Gerald great contribution, time ( and some patience ) and brag the MechMate rights with respect when I’m ask on the how I did it,....but I’m one of those who has past this numbering issue over 5yrs ago !
Have to admit though, I had a thought about it when I saw the possibility for #121....but opted to leave it !!
Amicalement
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  #280  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 03:27
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Some news

Hi all….Some update !!
Well after some +/- 5yr, my bridge rectifier as.... given up ….while running a job.. (/%&*$/$!! )
But aside of this, I can still say that my beast is still quite running fine after all !
O-!!….one other note, during my little stop on this past “short holidays”, I paid my good old PorteCable 7518 some new good new bearings ( advice ; don’t shot on those, good one are still inexpensive).
Let me tell ya, didn’t think much till I fired it up after the change…..BIG DIFFERENCE ! Advice, I would recommend to change those earlier than later, meaning, do not wait for some wear signs, I would say, if wear sign appears, it’s already late, but nothing aside vibration and “loos” shaft may occur…in my opinion !
Total cost for me was – Bearings = 62.40$ + ….+/- an hr of time/labor !!...CHEEP ! :0)

But one “new” concern I’m more….worry about !
Has anyone ever needed to change their gear rack ?
My X axis is not giving me a nice & smooth sound while traveling its axis, and that even as the gears running with my trany are not that old, say less than 50hrs of wear, but the rack…..humm…well over….say…hard to say, but +/- 200hr ??

Later….
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  #281  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 03:35
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
A gear rack will require changing at some point. Even hardened ones will wear, just not as fast. It is the nature of the beast. Gerald has written some about it. I remember reading it. However, 200 hours on a rack and pinion is not a long period of time but that all depends on the manufacturer of the gear rack and lubrication intervals. They best replaced as a set rather than one side rack and pinion only.
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  #282  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 03:50
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Thanks Pet.... early bird too ...hein !!
I too can remember....far...far...away !...have read Gerald advise on that...but maybe my age, and leanness not searching ....where is was posted !

It's unfortunate, but it'S on my to "change / maintenance" list !
BTW....with what you lube yours ?!
Later

Last edited by Robert M; Wed 07 January 2015 at 03:52..
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  #283  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 04:07
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Most people here use graphite from what I have seen. I prefer petroleum based products and use NAPA Bar and Chain lube sometimes thinned with WD-40 and apply a thin layer with a flux brush. Just know that I have a magnetic grease catch\trap for the Y rack as with grease comes minute specks (you don't want that on your expensive wood). In the end, it only matters with the diligence of the preventive maintenance duties. I grease mine in hours of use which would be weekly for a person running a business. I use WD-40 as a cleaner so I can inspect the rack and apply new lubricant. Takes less than 10 minutes to do. No matter what your lubrication type, it is the cleaning and reapplying that will extend the life of the given component. Reapplying lubricate over the small minute particles will not flush away the small metal debris the will naturally occur over time only cleaning will do that. Just my two cents for what it is worth to you.
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  #284  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 04:51
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Tks again Pete !
I'm one of those who use graphite !
I've been using this MolyKote for yrs in both woodworking and....car racing
It maybe part of my "advance rack wear" ....meaning, this lub is so good, i tend to....neglect frequent clean/re-lub the beast ....
I must get more maintenance diligent with the beast as I'm with other shop machines !
O-well !!
Later
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  #285  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 06:15
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I would look at my pinion gears first before I change out my rack. Also have you been using any grease on them. It does not take much but it also helps.

With regards to the bearings in you router. Buy the best you can and not from the manufacturer. If you think about it, most routers used by a wood worker do not get that much use. You want the best bearing because of the amount of use.
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  #286  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 18:01
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Nils,
I know you mean well, but trust me, at some 62$ for a pair of top German made “common-standard part#” sealed bearings, it can be quite a challenge to get any better quality….
Do not rely on the amount, these are so common Numbers ( mass produced) they simply cannot be compared to other bearing applications ( IE; Spindles).

I totaly agree with you, I too would never consider to cheapen on such an important part….to maybe save what….30-40 $.....
Later,
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  #287  
Old Wed 07 January 2015, 22:31
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Robert,

It is just my input, it is not always the right input.
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  #288  
Old Thu 08 January 2015, 04:18
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Nils....maybe....not always, but your advice on this one ( and many others) is always well appreciated and mean well
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  #289  
Old Mon 19 January 2015, 15:12
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Scallop marks !

Hi all !!

Not to certain, not experience here.....so I rather consult with some of your....wisdom !
I know my gear rack are showing ( and some sound too ) of wear and are in need to be replace.
My other concern is I have lots of scallop / wash board marks on....say like a tangential or circle cuts.
Straight line cuts ( X or Y in straight line) no issue, no noticeable marks, but as soon there is a combination cut like a tangential cut....ho my....not so nice !
Bear in mind I have a 4/1 trany, I do rough cuts clock wise and a finish pass CCW !....and that goes on "pretty" much any material, with the obvious difference do to this material variance !!

I understand this is....very....open to many variable....but still, any advice on what I should look in too when I'll put this babe on a pause in order to change the racks....and inspect some ??

Last edited by Robert M; Mon 19 January 2015 at 15:16..
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  #290  
Old Mon 26 January 2015, 19:43
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Did you notice this prior to changing the bearings?
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  #291  
Old Mon 26 January 2015, 20:33
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Thank for looking in to this with me Pete !
As for your Q : Funny ( or not so), It seem to slowly….kinda creep on me slowly. Although it “almost” seem to be there before, in a much less noticeable way.
Since I had a hunch it was time to change the router bearing, I also though it may help solve part or…more…... this “scallop” growing issue.
Yes it was there before I change the bearings, but, less. Another ….maybe factor….and bear with me as I’m no expert, some were & tear on my rack may also contribute a little ??!
Since I can visually see some rack wear, again here, I’m thinking, change them and see how, if ever, it may help eliminating this scallop growing concern….

Here are some pics taking on the last job where there is more noticeable scallop marks.
Tangential cut :
Tangential_cuts_resize.jpg
and
A straight line cut :
Vertical straight line cuts_resize.jpg

As I’m hoping to get more….or should I say better….cuts from the beast coz I’m more & more offering my CNC cut services to other shops whom have yet got one (CNC)!
Can’t offer such with this present situation !!

Thanks for any “experience” advice
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  #292  
Old Mon 26 January 2015, 23:28
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Have a look at your nodes in the part file. See if the scallops somewhat represent what the nodes look like. Also try on a scrap piece a manual cut that goes diagonally. IE G1 x0y0, x45y45. See if you end up with the same results. I had similar cuts when I used exact position had a large amount of nodes in my part files.
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  #293  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 01:17
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I did look at this many times, years ago. It is very common and has been discussed to death. My personal view (the "experts" don't agree) is that a stepper motor cannot micro-step under load. I think it jerks from full step to full step when there is a heavy cutting load. (remember that there is a big cutting load at right angles to the direction of travel). If you reduce the cutting load with lower feed speeds, depth of cut, sharpness of bit, etc., then the quality of cut is much better.

Despite what the experts say, I think somebody must still do a practical test: Drop a motor from its rack and feed a program that makes it turn very slowly. Then grab the pinion with a pliers to put on some load. Tell us if you feel smooth or jerky motion? I think the answer lies there . . . .
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  #294  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 03:57
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Gerard, thanks for your opinion. I know it’s been discussed zillion time before and excuse my lack of taking proper time to search over the database!
I’d like though to point out in this “growing” particular case, the cutting strategy this time was very conservative, in multiple passes, last pass at a very slow feed CCW only cutting 0.075’’ with a brand new bit!!
What you’re suggesting is worth trying and should be quite interesting simply and increases knowledge & experience !!. I’ll do so and come back with my impression, Thks Gerard, hopping all is well on your side ?

Russell !
Good point, I’ll look at the file and will also try a manual test as you pointed, did no thought of that as of yet !!
I thinking….how & where did you look for those nodes in the parts file ?....although, my “ego” will tell ya, I’m starting only my 1st morning coffee….

Thks guys...later
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  #295  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 04:24
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Robert, all is well this side, just getting older . . . . . 60 this year.

Such an experiment will be interesting. Especially if you drop both x and y motors. Try to see if one axis makes pulses while the other one is smooth. I also suspect that the PC has a problem to make two smooth streams of pulses to two motors at the same time.
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  #296  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 05:14
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Gerald, I’m still not quite as experimented with me trailing 10yr before you, but I tend to say to my boys….Yes I’m getting « advance with age, not older » since I’m truly getting…… an advance mature adolescence status !
Glad to read all is fine
By intrigue and…..wishing to make this “proper”….what feed would you suggest me to set this test at ?
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  #297  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 07:33
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
A very slow speed. If you are having "chatter" problems at a known speed, try to estimate the speed of the slower axis. The pliers test is going to be a little dangerous and it will leave marks in the pinion gear. Therefore test as slow as you can, but it should be about a speed that gives you real life problems (the slower of the two axes). In fact you can drop the motors and run a real file, with both axes moving, but do the plier test on the slower axis. Does this make sense?
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  #298  
Old Tue 27 January 2015, 17:31
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Yes, very much sense !
I'll try this soon and will definatly give you new about my findings !
Thanks for this
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  #299  
Old Wed 28 January 2015, 11:37
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
This might be about what Gerald said

http://www.micromo.com/microstepping...-and-realities

Quote:
Significant too is that any load torque will result in a “magnetic backlash”, displacing the rotor from the intended position until sufficient torque is generated.
But I just can't imagine that it looses that much torque as they say. On 10 microstep it would be below 20% and until it hits 300 rpm (befor morphing to fullstep) from a 6Nm motor you could expect no more than 1Nm when microstepping...

Also good information would be from you Robert to measure the distance in those vertical chatter marks, as they look equally spaced. I had chatter like that only when my material is not held down properly
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  #300  
Old Wed 28 January 2015, 22:12
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
That article does tie up with my observations and gut feel. Great to see someone tackle the subject objectively.
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