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  #61  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 06:33
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Good morning,

Today my goal is to make a dust shoe; I designed a base in v-carve. Loaded the file in the machine. Cut shoe and the holes are out of round. I know some where in this site I saw something about out of round holes but caní t find it know that I need it.

It repeats all cut passes exactly.

I am not sure if it is motor tuning, programming, or noise. I have de-bounce down to 100.

Here is a picture of the piece.

[ATTACH]13116

Al
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shoe.jpg (43.8 KB, 1188 views)
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  #62  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 06:40
obuhus
Just call me: Dmitriy #68
 
Kirov region
Russia
Hi, Al

Check up to tighten the screw of gear wheels on shaft of a step motors.
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  #63  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 06:42
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Loose grub-screws and too much slack on the z-slide (tighten eccentrics).
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  #64  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 06:43
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Dmitriy and I posted together. . . . we have seen those circles before!
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  #65  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 06:52
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Thanks

found posts in trouble shooting "out of round holes and read.
i have read and will try this morning

Thanks
al
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  #66  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 11:05
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Found the "A" stepper motor mount was a little to tight and had bound up not allowing the spring to pull it up to enaged with rack in essance running on just the "X" stepper. Grubbers were all tight. Ran a quick cut circle, 3" was off by about 1/16". Much better. On the "Z" one roller in five not making proper contact will adjust play again later today.

Wish I didn't have to work for a living.

Thanks

Al
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  #67  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 11:49
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Alan, believe it or not, you quickly diagnosed a "new" cause for bad circles......one of the gantry motors not fully meshed with the racks.
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  #68  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 13:45
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Gerald,

Don't give me that much credit all the help within this site did more than I did.

I tightened up the lose Z roller and it is now cutting to within 2 thousandths across the diamiter.


mm 120.jpg

Thanks

Al
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  #69  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 14:00
Polder48
Just call me: polder
 
Edam
Netherlands
Hi Al,

Problems solved in 8.15 hr. You should start a bussiness!
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  #70  
Old Wed 14 March 2012, 17:28
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
@Al; I just had a similar problem to yours today, my small circles ( 1/2" in diameter) do not look like circles, but 3 and 4" circles look almost perfect (notice I said *almost*). I been fighting the correct "Pulses Per" setting within Mach3 and tomorrow I am going to look at all the springs and Z rollers as never thought about looking at the Z..
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  #71  
Old Mon 19 March 2012, 21:19
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
Nice machine Al, congrats! I am not too far away from you in lower fairfield county.
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  #72  
Old Wed 28 March 2012, 13:27
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Been away for a wile.

Brian you are welcome to come to Mystic anytime.

Miguel I did have a a miner problem and I tightened up the springs a little and sprayed the nylon washers with lubricant and all was fine. Do check setscrews on the gears i had to put locktite on mine.

al
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  #73  
Old Wed 28 March 2012, 15:47
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Al,
Are you using two set screws 90 deg apart or just the one? I think Gerald had recommended that at one point.
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  #74  
Old Wed 28 March 2012, 16:17
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Heath,

I am just using one set screw on the flat of the shaft it's been ok for about 15 hours cutting so far will do more cutting this week now that I am back. If I have a problem again I will add another.
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  #75  
Old Thu 29 March 2012, 00:43
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If your motor shaft only has one one flat face, don't be shy to file/grind another one 90 degrees away.
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  #76  
Old Thu 29 March 2012, 07:22
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
It has only one flat now. If I have any trouble at all it will be done.

Thanks Al
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  #77  
Old Fri 30 March 2012, 05:21
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Alan

You could also put another two grub screws at 90 and 180 degrees to the original grub screw on the flat.
What this gives is three points where the grub screws load against the stepper shaft.

Look carefully at post 708 on my thread http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=708 and you can see the way the grub screw bites into the stainless shaft.
The other grub screws are biting in "on the round" and will miss the shaft on the "sides" opposing the direction of rotation.
This means that they will not resist the rotation as well as the screw on the flat but it will provide a good extra measure of fixing anyway.

Somewhere on the forum a member posted "do them up, undo them, then do them up again" as a method of seating the screw.
Good advice when you see how they cut into the stainless steel.

Ross
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  #78  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 15:03
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
A few things I have been cutting. Learning>>>



ann.jpg

sl.jpg

sp.jpg


AL
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  #79  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 15:28
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Great work.
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  #80  
Old Sat 28 April 2012, 12:05
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Brad, a wile ago you said you may have a drawing for a spindle speed control.

I think I am ready for the next step. Spindle speed control. My VDF is a AC Tech Model # M 12100c .

Does controler work on the Mech 3 screen or does it need modification?

Thanks in advance

Al
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  #81  
Old Mon 30 April 2012, 05:44
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Hi all,

Here are a few more things I have been cutting. [ATTACH]yardney 012.jpg[/ATTACH]

thanks al
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yardney 005.jpg (59.4 KB, 565 views)
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  #82  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 09:00
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
time for a 4th axis

Hi all,

I guess it is time to add a 4axis to my machine. I have just purchased a PK296A2A SG36 to drive the indexer, yet to be built.

I am currently running a PMDX 122 and I am not current with the new BOBS.

Is it easier to leave the current BOB in place and just add an additional PMDX122 of is there a better way to get the additional driver output needed?

I am also running Geko G203v drivers if that helps.

Thanks

Al l
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  #83  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 09:08
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Al,
You should be able to drive it all with the 122. With the203v drivers you can use one output from the 122 to drive two 203 stepper inputs (for the x) that will free up the other A output for your indexer.
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  #84  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 09:36
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Heath,

When you say that I can run both my x motors from on one output say J1on the PMDX122since both motors should be in step but in different directions by calling one a slave in Mech 3?

That will make to easy. we need to complicate it
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  #85  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 10:57
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Al,
No you would only use the X output in mach3. The step and direction signals get wired to two 203s .
You will have to flip the output phases of one motor to get it to run in the right direction.
The A output in Mach is now free for the 4th axis. There have been a few people here who have done it this way.
Probably a good idea to drop your motors for the x axis when trying all this out to make sure you have them
rotating in the proper directions before hooking them up to the rack.

Note though that this approach is driver dependent. If the drivers you are using have too much input current draw, then the 122 output will not be able to drive them. This is not a problem with the 203V from what I have read from posts from Mariss.

Last edited by domino11; Thu 14 March 2013 at 11:00..
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  #86  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 11:41
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...I'll hop in as the "guy that has done this".

Al,
On the PMDX
Use the outputs as follows

j1 - x left and x right
j2 - y
j3 - z
j4 - a axis

As Heath mentioned, you will need to share the step/direction signal from the PMDX to the G203V drives. Most likely, you will have to use ferrels or a really tight twist and solder to bond the wires together to fit in the headers on the J1 block. It's a small connection really only made for 1 wire. The manufacturer for both devices have verified that using a PMDX122 and G203V this current output and draw is permissible.

In Mach, you will NO longer slave the x1 to x. You will only have 4 active outputs on the configuration tree. x, y, z and a

Good luck - it's easy...it works.
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  #87  
Old Thu 14 March 2013, 11:49
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Thanks

Not use to having things that easy

Will post pictures of the progress when I start construction

Al
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  #88  
Old Sat 16 March 2013, 09:00
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Hi All,

Another question to do with 4th axis mounting of motor.

I see many couple the gearhead motor directly to the chuck with apairs to be with only one flang mounted bearing is that enough to support the working loag or should there be two spaced faitly close say 2" appart thus reliving any load directly on the motor/gearbox bearings?

An example of one bearing is shown in this thread.
http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...9&postcount=55

Thanks

Al

Last edited by Gerald D; Thu 21 March 2013 at 06:35.. Reason: fixed the link
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  #89  
Old Wed 20 March 2013, 18:57
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Al,
It all depends on how you want to go about it. Your resolution is the deciding factor. I have read a lot of posts and have seen reductions of 100:1 to 16:1. If this was on a mill you would most definitely want a 40:1 minimum and Zero backlash. With wood, a little backlash will not be as noticeable but should be limited. Spur gears have more backlash than the planetary that Oriental sells and don't soak the bank either. Planetary will have anywhere between 3 and 40 arc minutes but a spur gear will have more than that, probably around 90+. I chose to mount the motor as shown here on the side. If your 4th axis has harmonic drive, then a direct mount would would be preferred. You can mount on the side with a 1:1 belt ratio also and leave the option for change later. I would look at buying a zero backlash coupler if direct mount as it will limit any motion you will get from keyways. In the end, it is your design and your choice. There really is no wrong way as long as you assembly it carefully. Sean has one on his machine if I remember correctly.
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  #90  
Old Thu 21 March 2013, 06:17
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Hi Pete,

That is what I was thinking of. Only closer together about 2" apart. I have a 36:1 Oriental now from my reading I believe I can adjust the backlash in Mech3. I will be turning wood and no larger than around 6-7" in dia. If there is to much slop I can easily change change it to a belt drive system.

Thanks

Al
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