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  #1  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 13:15
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
New Z Slide Going In! #12 - Winter Park, FL

Today, I jumped in with both feet to start my build.

I have ordered the PMDX-122 BOB, the AnTek Power Supply, Oriential Motors, the Gecko G203V Drives and a bunch of things from FactoryMation.

I have not decided on the size of the table. It will most likely be 5' x 10' or 12'. I have some time to decided that.

I have decided not to grind the rails and I eventually will have a spindle but will start with a router.

I appreciate Gerald's design and free plans. I also know that there are plenty of people on this forum with excellent experience if I run into a problem. I am also fortunate to live 15 minutes away from Sean Reish's shop and his MechMate and knowledge.
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  #2  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 13:18
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
The first item that I have received are the laser that I ordered from Deal Extreme. It took them about 10 days to deliver them.
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File Type: jpg DealExtreme Laser.jpg (168.9 KB, 5121 views)
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  #3  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 14:09
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
I have not decided on the size of the table. It will most likely be 5' x 10' or 12'. I have some time to decided that.
I'd recommend that if you will be doing anything with 5' widths (sheet metal, MDF), to go the 5ft Y route. It's a whole lot easier to make the MechMate's X longer than it is to lengthen the Y. Also be aware that you can get about 100" of X out of a single ~20ft C channel, going to something longer requires two 20ft beams, then you might as well go all the way since the cost isn't that great (just extra rail, cross supports, support board and X chain.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
I have decided not to grind the rails
Are you going to do the bolt-on pre-made rails?
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  #4  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 15:50
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
David,

I have not decided about the length. I was always going to Y the 5'.

Yes, I am going with the bolt-on-pre-made rails. At least that is my direction at this time. I might change my mind but I don't think so.

Your laser design is interesting but I think I am going to use Greg Greolt idea. I do like your dust collect design.
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  #5  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 16:06
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
Yes, I am going with the bolt-on-pre-made rails. At least that is my direction at this time. I might change my mind but I don't think so.
Is the reason for going with the bolt on rails have to do with complexity (cutting down the leg, building the grinder/skate, time to grind)?
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  #6  
Old Mon 02 June 2008, 16:37
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
No, it has to do with I like the bolt on.
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  #7  
Old Tue 03 June 2008, 05:34
AlphaBob
Just call me: AlphaBob
 
Jacksonville, FL
United States of America
Nils,

I'm up in Jacksonville and probably about 4 - 6 months behind you. I've got some other projects I've got to clear before I start in earnest on my MechMate (biodiesel reactor, re-assemble my 1939 tractor, etc.).

I'm going to "soft start" soon on my rails - plan to grind my own. Ideally from 304 stainless because of the tremendous amount of humidity here in Florida.

I've got a full-size mill with power feed and DRO. Let me know if you need any small machining jobs or if you're interested in doubling up on any purchases.

There's another Bob up here (in St. Augustine) and we're probably going to go in on some of the gear rack that is mentioned elsewhere. The rack is around $24 / section and the company purportedly likes to deal in larger quantities. Between Bob & I we plan on ordering 6 pieces so let me know if you're interested.

AlphaBob

Last edited by AlphaBob; Tue 03 June 2008 at 05:52..
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  #8  
Old Tue 03 June 2008, 11:08
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
AlphaBob

Thanks for the suggestion and I will keep you in mind. I have most of the things I need for the Control Box. I would like to see some pictures after you have ground a S/S rail.
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  #9  
Old Tue 03 June 2008, 15:53
AlphaBob
Just call me: AlphaBob
 
Jacksonville, FL
United States of America
Will do.
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  #10  
Old Tue 03 June 2008, 17:59
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
AlphaBob,

I was thinking about you making the rails out of S/S and I was wondering if it is cost effective. I am sure that S/S is much more expensive than steel. You have the equipment to grind the rail which helps reduce your cost. If you are using the machine on a regular basis, is there going to be a build up of rust? And if there was, wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the steel rails? I would think that you could replace the steel rails a couples times and it cost less than S/S.

Would the rollers run smoother on S/S?

What do you think?
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  #11  
Old Tue 03 June 2008, 20:50
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
Would the rollers run smoother on S/S?
I guess you could say it would run smoother on the long run. With the stainless generally being harder than the mild steel - if you drop things onto the rail, it would be less likely to damage the rail, causing a dibit or other flaw in the rail.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
I am sure that S/S is much more expensive than steel.
How much more were you thinking - 2x, 3x, 5x? Forty feet of 2.5"x2"x1/4" angle (enough for a 4'x8' unit) is in total about 127#. Currently steel has been running me about .80 cents a pound (retail) for a total of 101$ for the angle in mild steel. Anyone purchase stainless on a regular basis care to quote a rough amount per pound? I'm going to take a wild guess, since nikel prices have dropped quite a bit over the last three months and say for 18-8 it is 2.25 to 2.75 per pound?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
And if there was, wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the steel rails?
The difference seems like it wouldn't be in the inital cost of the stainless, it would be in the cost to re-purchase the steel (plus the time to get it), the time re-cut and grind it and if you are running a business off your MechMate, the cost of down time to swap out the rails. Not to mention the issue of redrilling the holes in the correct spots an getting everything realigned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfl View Post
You have the equipment to grind the rail which helps reduce your cost.
The total, out of pocket costs to grind the rails using the skate (if you don't have another method) is about $120 USD (excluding the cost of the steel). Then, on top of that, you still get a perfectly good grinder to work with on your project. So, if you don't already have a grinder or if you have the right model grinder that fits the skate (see my other posts), the cost is less than $20 USD. In my opinion, the skate with a circular saw, if you don't have something like a mill or other purpose designed machine, is the way to go.
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  #12  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 06:33
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Humidity shouldn't be a large issue.
My machine is currently in a 100% humidity, 95 Deg F shop most of the year. I notice a very little surface rust on the the Vee part of the rail. But, the frequency of the machine running keeps the journal way nice and polished. If your really worried about it, use TableSaw surface "cleaning and anti rust spray". It doesn't leave a residue and is A LOT cheaper than Stainless. Stainless is significantly harder material and may last longer, but how much longer? Love to hear Gerald's thoughts on this one.
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  #13  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 07:06
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
I think someone is forgetting the K.I.S.S. principal.
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  #14  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 07:53
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by smreish View Post
Stainless is significantly harder material and may last longer, but how much longer? Love to hear Gerald's thoughts on this one.
My experience with Stainless is that it is a poor bearing/load carrying material - it has a tendency to "gall" (stick to the mating part and break out pit holes). I believe that stainless rails are offered for hygiene reasons the food industry, and not because they have superior hardness or wear resistance.
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  #15  
Old Wed 04 June 2008, 11:25
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
Stainless is also quite a bit higher in cost than steel.

It will be cheaper and easier to go with the aluminum angle and pre-made hardened rails. Especially if you consider the grinder, grinder attatchments for holding the grinder, bearings, and grinding and cutting disks to the cost of the stainless steel angle.

If I do any more MM's, I am going with all premade hadened rails, they have more bearing contact surface area and are much less stressfull to the builder than all the cutting and grinding IMHO.

If you do the SS be sure to wear a good resperator.
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  #16  
Old Thu 05 June 2008, 02:10
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Parts are starting to arrive and I am purchasing what I need.

Tuesday:
Resistors and crimping tool:

Wednesday:
PMDX-122 BOB
Many parts from FactoryMation which included the backplate for the enclosure.
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  #17  
Old Fri 06 June 2008, 10:14
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Motors, Power Supply, Geckos have all arrived.

I am looking to start wiring the control box soon. I am making good progress.
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  #18  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 04:13
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I have all the major parts for the control box. I will recieve one last part that I want to put on the box door on Monday. I need to buy a couple minor things from Skycraft and I will start assembling the control box and with Sean's help wire it up.

Gerald, I bought my first can of MM Blue paint.
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  #19  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 04:33
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Good stuff Nils. It is raining here and I am tidying up drawings. (Also re-creating the few drawings I lost when my memory stick spat out its dummy).
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  #20  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 06:31
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Thanks

I will update the Excel drawing sheet. I looked at it earlier and had some questions but I will look it over when I see the next post about the drawings.

Did a test paint of the bottom of my lawn mower. MM Blue Toro!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MM Blue Toro.jpg (166.9 KB, 4928 views)
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  #21  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 07:03
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Nils,

Looking good.

Are you planning on painting everything (table, gantry, etc) with rattle cans ?
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  #22  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 07:41
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Greg,

It is in the field of strong and most likely consideration. Easy to clean up, cheap to buy and great for touch up. So, YES!
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  #23  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 11:21
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Just curious,

I painted the primer coat with rattle cans. It gets old fast. Went down to the local auto parts store and purchased a spray gun for $60. Made all the difference.

If you do go the spray gun route, here's a little hint. Where every you buy your paint, have them match it to your MM blue rattle can paint color.

I didn't do this, so small touch up jobs require the spray gun, mixing the paint, cleaning the gun, etc.
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  #24  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 15:23
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Greg,

What brand and model did you buy? It has been a long time since I painted any thing with a spray can. When you think about it there isn't much surface that needs painting. It is just in long runs. Also this stuff dries in short period.

I purchased a handle that goes on top of the spray can which makes it easier to hold and it does the pushing on the sprayer head. If it doesn't work, I can get a regular sprayer.

Good idea about matching the paint color but I think RustOleum makes the same colors in gal sizes.

I will let you know how it works out when I start painting the steel. I will also use it to paint the control box.
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  #25  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 18:28
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Nils,

It's just a NAPA special. One of those silver vacum guns. Nothing fancy.

I agree on those $2.00 handles for spray cans. Great idea.
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  #26  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 18:57
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Greg,

It was more like $5 for the handle. You use it over and over. It was all I saw at Home Depot. Spring loaded.
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  #27  
Old Sat 28 June 2008, 19:09
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Nils.
Don't worry, I have a lot of guns to spray with. If you want, we can go to the paint supply house I deal with and get your MM color when were ready.
Sean
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  #28  
Old Wed 02 July 2008, 13:26
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Today, I completed the task of attaching the Control Box hardware.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN0755.jpg (170.0 KB, 4838 views)
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  #29  
Old Fri 11 July 2008, 22:56
thesaent14
Just call me: Manny
 
Miami
United States of America
what model are you using on the power supply any info and why 5 drives

thanks
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  #30  
Old Sat 12 July 2008, 02:27
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Manny,

I am using AnTek, Inc, PS-6N56R5R12 Power Supply. There are 5 Geckos because I want to add an indexer to my machine some time in the future. I thought it would be easier to included it now instead of trying to add the wiring and associated hardware later.

Update!

I am making progress on the control box. I am a little slow with the bottom half but I am moving forward.

Sean is going to help me build the table. The steel has been ordered and will arrive Monday. I have ordered the wheels, bushings and V Rails from Superior Bearing. Yes, I am going against the tide. I am NOT grinding my rails. I will be happy to report the progress with the V Rails.

I have my Milwaukee 5625 router and I recently ordered the bracket to hold the router. I can not believe how heavy the router is and how quiet.

The laser parts will be shipped next week as reported by Joe.

The fun will continue for another week. More pictures soon.
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